| 1991 UIAA Climbing World Championships | |
|---|---|
| Location |  Frankfurt, Germany |
| Date | 1 – 2 October 1991 |
| Competitors | 110 from 22 nations |
The 1991 UIAA Climbing World Championships , the first edition, were held in Frankfurt, Germany from 1 to 2 October 1991. It was organized by the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA). The championships consisted of lead and speed events. [1] [2] [3]
| Event | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
|---|---|---|---|
| Men's Lead | François Legrand  France | Yuji Hirayama  Japan | Guido Köstermeyer Germany |
| Men's Speed | Hans Florine  United States | Jacky Godoffe France | Kairat Rakhmetov  Kazakhstan |
| Women's Lead | Susi Good  Switzerland | Isabelle Patissier France | Robyn Erbesfield United States |
| Women's Speed | Isabelle Dorsimond  Belgium | Agnès Brard France | Venera Chereshneva  Russia |
François Legrand and Susi Good were the first ever Lead World Champions. Legrand climbed efficiently and topped the final route. [4]
| Men [5] | Women [6] | ||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rank | Name | Nation | Result | Rank | Name | Nation | Result |
 | François Legrand |  France | 6000 | | Susi Good |  Switzerland | 6000 |
 | Yuji Hirayama |  Japan | 4800 | | Isabelle Patissier | France | 4800 |
 | Guido Köstermeyer |  Germany | 3600 | | Robyn Erbesfield |  United States | 3600 |
| 4 | Pavel Samoiline |  Russia | 3300 | 4 | Nanette Raybaud | France | 3300 |
| 5 | Evgeny Ovchinnikov | Russia | 3060 | 5 | Lynn Hill | United States | 3060 |
| 6 | Didier Raboutou | France | 2820 | 6 | Natalie Richer | France | 2820 |
| 7 | Vladimir Jourkin | Russia | 2580 | 7 | Venera Chereshneva | Russia | 2580 |
| 8 | Bernabe Fernandez |  Spain | 2400 | 8 | Isabelle Dorsimond |  Belgium | 2400 |
| 9 | Christoph Finkel | Germany | 2220 | 9 | Luisa Iovane |  Italy | 2220 |
| 10 | François Lombard | France | 2040 | 10 | Barbara Hirschbichler | Germany | 2040 |
Hans Florine and Isabelle Dorsimond were the first ever Speed World Cup Champions. [7]
| Men [8] | Women [9] | ||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rank | Name | Nation | Result | Rank | Name | Nation | Result |
| Hans Florine | United States | 6000 | | Isabelle Dorsimond | Belgium | |
| Jacky Godoffe | France | 4800 | | Agnès Brard | France | |
| Kairat Rakhmetov |  Kazakhstan | 3600 | | Venera Chereshneva | Russia | |
| 4 | Andrzej Marcisz |  Poland | 3300 | 4 | Yulia Inozemtseva | Russia | |
| 5 | Raikhan Galiakbarov | Russia | 3060 | 5 | Ineke Dijkstra |  Netherlands | |
| 5 | Glenn Sutcliffe |  Great Britain | 3060 | 5 | Andrea Eisenhut | Germany | |
| 7 | Mark Baker |  Australia | 2580 | 5 | Irina Kodina | Russia | |
| 7 | Gregor Jaeger | Germany | 2580 | 8 | Iwona Gronkiewicz-Marcisz | Poland | |
| 9 | Seung-Kwon Chung |  South Korea | 2220 | 9 | Felicity Butler | Great Britain | |
| 9 | Stephan Hilgers | Germany | 2220 | 10 | Nancy Feagin | United States | |
| 9 | Johannes Nathan | Germany | 2220 | ||||
| 9 | Petrov Plamen |  Bulgaria | 2220 | ||||
| 9 | Salavat Rakhmetov | Russia | 2220 | ||||
| 9 | Arnould T'Kint | Belgium | 2220 | ||||
| 9 | Oleg Tcherechnev | Russia | 2220 | ||||
| 16 | Hira Verick | Australia | 1200 | ||||
Hans Florine is an American rock climber, who holds the record for the number of ascents of Yosemite Valleys El Capitan and is known for holding the speed record on The Nose of Yosemite’s El Capitan 8 different times. Hans' last speed record on The Nose was accomplished with Alex Honnold for climbing The Nose in 2:23:46, on June 17, 2012. In addition to climbing El Capitan over 175 times, Hans also holds the record for the number of ascents of The Nose climbing it more than 111 times.
The International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation, commonly known by its French name Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme, was founded in August 1932 in Chamonix, France when 20 mountaineering associations met for an alpine congress. Count Charles Egmond d’Arcis, from Switzerland, was chosen as the first president and it was decided by the founding members that the UIAA would be an international federation which would be in charge of the "study and solution of all problems regarding mountaineering". The UIAA Safety Label was created in 1960 and was internationally approved in 1965 and currently (2015) has a global presence on five continents with 86 member associations in 62 countries representing over 3 million people.
Yuji Hirayama is a Japanese rock climber specializing in lead climbing competitions. He won two Lead World Cups, in 1998 and in 2000. He is notable for being the first-ever climber to onsight an 8c (5.14b) route, and for his various speed records on El Capitan.
Competition climbing is a type of rock climbing held indoors on purpose-built artificial climbing walls, although earlier versions were held on external natural rock surfaces. The three standalone competition climbing disciplines are: lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing. A fourth discipline of "combined" is based on combinations of results in the three main disciplines. Competition climbing is sometimes called "sport climbing", which is the type of lead climbing performed in competition climbing.
Speed climbing is a climbing discipline in which speed is the ultimate goal. Speed climbing is done on rocks, walls and poles and is only recommended for highly skilled and experienced climbers.
The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) is the international governing body for the sport of competition climbing, which consists of the disciplines lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing.
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