| 2003 UIAA Climbing World Championships | |
|---|---|
| Location |  Chamonix, France |
| Date | 9 – 13 July 2003 |
| Competitors | 241 from 34 nations |
The 2003 UIAA Climbing World Championships , the 7th edition, were held in Chamonix, France from 9 to 13 July 2003. It was organized by the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA). The championships consisted of lead, speed, and bouldering events. [1] [2]
| Event | Gold | Silver | Bronze | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Men's Lead | Tomas Mrazek  Czech Republic | Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza  Spain | David Caude France | |||
| Men's Bouldering | Christian Core  Italy | Jerome Meyer France | Tomasz Oleksy  Poland | |||
| Men's Speed | Maksym Styenkovyy  Ukraine | Tomasz Oleksy Poland | Alexander Peshekhonov  Russia | |||
| Women's Lead | Muriel Sarkany  Belgium | Emilie Pouget France | Sandrine Levet France | |||
| Women's Bouldering | Sandrine Levet France | Nataliya Perlova Ukraine | Fanny Rogeaux France | |||
| Women's Speed | Olena Ryepko Ukraine | Tatiana Ruyga Russia | Valentina Yurina Russia | |||
Tomáš Mrázek clinched gold medal after climbing 2 meters higher than the rest of the field. Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza won silver medal by edging out David Caude who took bronze. Alexandre Chabot placed 5th. [3]
| Rank | Name | Nation | 1/4 Final | 1/2 Final | Final | Result [4] [3] | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| R1 | R2 | ||||||
 | Tomáš Mrázek |  Czech Republic | Top | 22.50- | 23.55- | 9500 | |
 | Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza |  Spain | Top | 20.64- | 21.29+ | 7600 | |
 | David Caude |  France | Top | 24.24+ | 21.29 | 6175 | |
| 4 | Christian Bindhammer |  Germany | Top | 20.64 | 15.40- | 5225 | |
| 5 | Alexandre Chabot | France | Top | 25.00- | 14.48- | 4845 | |
| 6 | Sylvain Millet | France | Top | 23.76- | 12.31- | 4465 | |
| 7 | Ramón Julián Puigblanqué | Spain | Top | 22.87- | 10.81 | 4085 | |
| 8 | Evgeny Ovchinnikov |  Russia | Top | 20.64 | 10.81 | 3800 | |
Muriel Sarkany took the win by climbing 2 meter higher than her closest competition. Six climbers struggled on the same hold: touching, holding, or moving off it. In the end, Emilie Pouget claimed silver medal, ahead of her teammate Sandrine Levet who claimed bronze. [3]
| Rank | Name | Nation | 1/4 Final | 1/2 Final | Final | Result [5] [3] |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Muriel Sarkany |  Belgium | Top | Top | 24.60- | 8400 |
| Emilie Pouget | France | Top | 18.15- | 22.27+ | 6720 |
| Sandrine Levet | France | Top | Top | 22.27 | 5460 |
| 4 | Jenny Lavarda |  Italy | Top | 18.15 | 22.27- | 4620 |
| 5 | Alexandra Eyer |  Switzerland | Top | 18.15- | 22.27- | 4284 |
| 6 | Caroline Ciavaldini | France | Top | 16.94 | 22.27- | 3948 |
| 7 | Angela Eiter |  Austria | Top | 16.94- | 22.27- | 3612 |
| 8 | Barbara Bacher | Austria | Top | 17.42+ | 20.12 | 3360 |
| 9 | Emily Harrington |  United States | Top | 16.94- | 17.72- | 3108 |
| 10 | Olga Shalagina |  Ukraine | Top | 16.94- | 7.26- | 2856 |
Bouldering scores were decided by number of tops, number of attempts to tops, number of zones, and number of attempts to zones in decreasing order of importance.
Christian Core sent four boulder problems in the final round and won gold medal after edging out Jérôme Meyer by one less attempt. Tomasz Oleksy placed 3rd. [6]
| Rank | Name | Nation | Qualification | Final | Result [7] [6] | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Top | TA | Zone | ZA | Rank | Top | TA | Zone | ZA | ||||
| Christian Core | Italy | 1 | 1 | 6 | 9 | 11 | 4 | 7 | 5 | 7 | 7900 |
| Jérôme Meyer | France | 2 | 2 | 6 | 14 | 6 | 4 | 8 | 6 | 7 | 6320 |
| Tomasz Oleksy |  Poland | 3 | 3 | 6 | 7 | 4 | 3 | 3 | 5 | 8 | 5135 |
| 4 | Mauro Calibani | Italy | 4 | 9 | 5 | 10 | 3 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 7 | 4345 |
| 5 | Kilian Fischhuber | Austria | 2 | 5 | 4 | 8 | 10 | 3 | 4 | 4 | 5 | 4029 |
| 6 | Serik Kazbekov | Ukraine | 4 | 8 | 6 | 8 | 2 | 3 | 5 | 4 | 6 | 3713 |
| 7 | Salavat Rakhmetov | Russia | 4 | 6 | 6 | 8 | 1 | 3 | 6 | 6 | 11 | 3397 |
| 8 | Akito Matsushima |  Japan | 3 | 4 | 5 | 8 | 5 | 3 | 7 | 4 | 8 | 3160 |
| 9 | Stephane Julien | France | 2 | 4 | 4 | 10 | 9 | 2 | 2 | 4 | 8 | 2923 |
| 10 | Andrew Earl |  Great Britain | 2 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 7 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 9 | 2686 |
| 11 | Alexander Meikl | Austria | 1 | 1 | 4 | 9 | 12 | 2 | 8 | 4 | 14 | 2449 |
| 12 | Georgos Progulakis | Italy | 2 | 4 | 6 | 11 | 8 | 0 | 0 | 2 | 8 | 2212 |
Sandrine Levet topped 5 boulder problems in the final round, securing a gold medal. Nataliya Perlova sent 3 problems and placed second, while Fanny Rogeaux sent 2 problems in two attempts claiming third place. [6]
| Rank | Name | Nation | Qualification | Final | Result [8] [6] | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Top | TA | Zone | ZA | Rank | Top | TA | Zone | ZA | ||||
| Sandrine Levet | France | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 1 | 5 | 14 | 6 | 13 | 7600 |
| Nataliya Perlova | Ukraine | 5 | 8 | 6 | 8 | 12 | 3 | 6 | 4 | 4 | 6080 |
| Fanny Rogeaux | France | 6 | 7 | 6 | 6 | 3 | 2 | 2 | 3 | 3 | 4940 |
| 4 | Olga Bibik | Russia | 5 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 10 | 2 | 3 | 5 | 6 | 4180 |
| 5 | Juliette Danion | France | 5 | 7 | 6 | 6 | 11 | 2 | 4 | 5 | 16 | 3876 |
| 6 | Vera Kotasova-Kostruhova | Czech Republic | 6 | 9 | 6 | 7 | 4 | 1 | 1 | 3 | 3 | 3572 |
| 7 | Venera Chereshneva | Russia | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 3 | 4 | 3268 |
| 8 | Olga Shalagina | Ukraine | 6 | 9 | 6 | 7 | 4 | 1 | 2 | 4 | 7 | 3040 |
| 9 | Myriam Motteau | France | 6 | 9 | 6 | 8 | 7 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 5 | 2812 |
| 10 | Yulia Abramchuk | Russia | 6 | 9 | 6 | 7 | 4 | 1 | 2 | 2 | 4 | 2584 |
| 11 | Stella Marchisio | Italy | 5 | 5 | 6 | 6 | 9 | 1 | 3 | 2 | 7 | 2356 |
| 12 | Corinne Theroux | France | 6 | 10 | 6 | 9 | 8 | 1 | 6 | 4 | 11 | 2128 |
Maksym Styenkovvy took the win. Tomasz Oleksy placed second and Alexander Peshekhonov placed third.
| Rank | Name | Nation | Qual. | 1/2-Final | small Final | Final | Result [9] |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Maksym Styenkovyy | Ukraine | 28.81 | 25.97 | 21.55 | 21.31 | 5500 |
| Tomasz Oleksy | Poland | 32.15 | 25.96 | 24.31 | 25.71 | 4400 |
| Alexander Peshekhonov | Russia | 32.74 | 26.96 | 22.11 | 3575 | |
| 4 | Oleksandr Salimov | Ukraine | 35.20 | 28.74 | 27.43 | 3025 | |
| 5 | Alexei Gadeev | Russia | 31.05 | 29.66 | 2805 | ||
| 6 | Dmytro Konovalov | Ukraine | 34.53 | 26.72 | 2585 | ||
| 7 | Sergei Sinitcyn | Russia | 28.29 | 31.74 | 2365 | ||
| 8 | Iakov Soubbotine | Russia | 26.64 | 27.01 | 2200 | ||
| 9 | Yevgen Kryvosheytsev | Ukraine | 29.01 | 27.19 | 2035 | ||
| 10 | Csaba Komondi |  Hungary | 32.53 | 30.03 | 1870 | ||
| 11 | Alexandre Chaoulsky | Russia | 28.46 | 30.87 | 1705 | ||
| 12 | Ivan Shyshkovskyy | Ukraine | 40.25 | 34.18 | 1540 | ||
| 13 | Salah Boulbahaiem | Belgium | 48.95 | 42.32 | 1430 | ||
| 14 | Mathieu Dutray | France | 34.80 | elim. | 1320 | ||
| 14 | Nicolas Januel | France | 33.84 | elim. | 1320 | ||
| 14 | Andrzej Mecherzynski-Wiktor | Poland | 33.45 | elim. | 1320 | ||
| 17 | C. M. Praveen |  India | 49.98 | 1008 | |||
| 18 | Kyrylo Shevchenko | Ukraine | elim. | 896 |
Olena Ryepko took the win. Tatiana Ruyga placed second and Yurina Valentina third.
| Rank | Name | Nation | Qual. | small Final | Final | Result [10] |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Olena Ryepko | Ukraine | 43.57 | 37.15 | 35.76 | 3300 |
| Tatiana Ruyga | Russia | 44.38 | 37.86 | 37.68 | 2640 |
| Valentina Yurina | Russia | 43.72 | 42.25 | 2145 | |
| 4 | Olga Zakharova | Ukraine | 43.09 | 38.86 | 1815 | |
| 5 | Mayya Piratinskaya | Russia | 45.38 | 1683 | ||
| 6 | Olga Bezhko | Ukraine | 53.68 | 1551 | ||
| 7 | Edyta Ropek | Poland | 48.96 | 1419 | ||
| 8 | Olena Ostapenko | Ukraine | 51.14 | 1320 | ||
| 9 | Svetlana Sutkina | Russia | 53.83 | 1776 | ||
| 10 | Agung Ethi Hendrawati |  Indonesia | 57.45 | 1632 | ||
| 11 | Sabine Knabl | Austria | 59.22 | 1488 | ||
| 12 | Nataliya Perlova | Ukraine | 60.54 | 1344 | ||
| 13 | M. N. Vathsala | India | 86.02 | 1248 | ||
| 14 | Bangalore Subbarao Archana | India | elim. | 1152 | ||
| 14 | Anna Stenkovaya | Russia | elim. | 1152 |
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