| 2003 UIAA Climbing World Championships | |
|---|---|
| Location |  Chamonix, France |
| Date | 9 – 13 July 2003 |
| Competitors | 241 from 34 nations |
The 2003 UIAA Climbing World Championships , the 7th edition, were held in Chamonix, France from 9 to 13 July 2003. It was organized by the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA). The championships consisted of lead, speed, and bouldering events. [1] [2]
| Event | Gold | Silver | Bronze | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Men's Lead | Tomas Mrazek  Czech Republic | Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza  Spain | David Caude France | |||
| Men's Bouldering | Christian Core  Italy | Jerome Meyer France | Tomasz Oleksy  Poland | |||
| Men's Speed | Maksym Styenkovyy  Ukraine | Tomasz Oleksy Poland | Alexander Peshekhonov  Russia | |||
| Women's Lead | Muriel Sarkany  Belgium | Emilie Pouget France | Sandrine Levet France | |||
| Women's Bouldering | Sandrine Levet France | Nataliya Perlova Ukraine | Fanny Rogeaux France | |||
| Women's Speed | Olena Ryepko Ukraine | Tatiana Ruyga Russia | Valentina Yurina Russia | |||
Tomáš Mrázek clinched gold medal after climbing 2 meters higher than the rest of the field. Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza won silver medal by edging out David Caude who took bronze. Alexandre Chabot placed 5th. [3]
| Rank | Name | Nation | 1/4 Final | 1/2 Final | Final | Result [4] [3] | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| R1 | R2 | ||||||
 | Tomáš Mrázek |  Czech Republic | Top | 22.50- | 23.55- | 9500 | |
 | Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza |  Spain | Top | 20.64- | 21.29+ | 7600 | |
 | David Caude |  France | Top | 24.24+ | 21.29 | 6175 | |
| 4 | Christian Bindhammer |  Germany | Top | 20.64 | 15.40- | 5225 | |
| 5 | Alexandre Chabot | France | Top | 25.00- | 14.48- | 4845 | |
| 6 | Sylvain Millet | France | Top | 23.76- | 12.31- | 4465 | |
| 7 | Ramón Julián Puigblanqué | Spain | Top | 22.87- | 10.81 | 4085 | |
| 8 | Evgeny Ovchinnikov |  Russia | Top | 20.64 | 10.81 | 3800 | |
Muriel Sarkany took the win by climbing 2 meter higher than her closest competition. Six climbers struggled on the same hold: touching, holding, or moving off it. In the end, Emilie Pouget claimed silver medal, ahead of her teammate Sandrine Levet who claimed bronze. [3]
| Rank | Name | Nation | 1/4 Final | 1/2 Final | Final | Result [5] [3] |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Muriel Sarkany |  Belgium | Top | Top | 24.60- | 8400 |
| Emilie Pouget | France | Top | 18.15- | 22.27+ | 6720 |
| Sandrine Levet | France | Top | Top | 22.27 | 5460 |
| 4 | Jenny Lavarda |  Italy | Top | 18.15 | 22.27- | 4620 |
| 5 | Alexandra Eyer |  Switzerland | Top | 18.15- | 22.27- | 4284 |
| 6 | Caroline Ciavaldini | France | Top | 16.94 | 22.27- | 3948 |
| 7 | Angela Eiter |  Austria | Top | 16.94- | 22.27- | 3612 |
| 8 | Barbara Bacher | Austria | Top | 17.42+ | 20.12 | 3360 |
| 9 | Emily Harrington |  United States | Top | 16.94- | 17.72- | 3108 |
| 10 | Olga Shalagina |  Ukraine | Top | 16.94- | 7.26- | 2856 |
Bouldering scores were decided by number of tops, number of attempts to tops, number of zones, and number of attempts to zones in decreasing order of importance.
Christian Core sent four boulder problems in the final round and won gold medal after edging out Jérôme Meyer by one less attempt. Tomasz Oleksy placed 3rd. [6]
| Rank | Name | Nation | Qualification | Final | Result [7] [6] | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Top | TA | Zone | ZA | Rank | Top | TA | Zone | ZA | ||||
| Christian Core | Italy | 1 | 1 | 6 | 9 | 11 | 4 | 7 | 5 | 7 | 7900 |
| Jérôme Meyer | France | 2 | 2 | 6 | 14 | 6 | 4 | 8 | 6 | 7 | 6320 |
| Tomasz Oleksy |  Poland | 3 | 3 | 6 | 7 | 4 | 3 | 3 | 5 | 8 | 5135 |
| 4 | Mauro Calibani | Italy | 4 | 9 | 5 | 10 | 3 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 7 | 4345 |
| 5 | Kilian Fischhuber | Austria | 2 | 5 | 4 | 8 | 10 | 3 | 4 | 4 | 5 | 4029 |
| 6 | Serik Kazbekov | Ukraine | 4 | 8 | 6 | 8 | 2 | 3 | 5 | 4 | 6 | 3713 |
| 7 | Salavat Rakhmetov | Russia | 4 | 6 | 6 | 8 | 1 | 3 | 6 | 6 | 11 | 3397 |
| 8 | Akito Matsushima |  Japan | 3 | 4 | 5 | 8 | 5 | 3 | 7 | 4 | 8 | 3160 |
| 9 | Stephane Julien | France | 2 | 4 | 4 | 10 | 9 | 2 | 2 | 4 | 8 | 2923 |
| 10 | Andrew Earl |  Great Britain | 2 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 7 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 9 | 2686 |
| 11 | Alexander Meikl | Austria | 1 | 1 | 4 | 9 | 12 | 2 | 8 | 4 | 14 | 2449 |
| 12 | Georgos Progulakis | Italy | 2 | 4 | 6 | 11 | 8 | 0 | 0 | 2 | 8 | 2212 |
Sandrine Levet topped 5 boulder problems in the final round, securing a gold medal. Nataliya Perlova sent 3 problems and placed second, while Fanny Rogeaux sent 2 problems in two attempts claiming third place. [6]
| Rank | Name | Nation | Qualification | Final | Result [8] [6] | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Top | TA | Zone | ZA | Rank | Top | TA | Zone | ZA | ||||
| Sandrine Levet | France | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 1 | 5 | 14 | 6 | 13 | 7600 |
| Nataliya Perlova | Ukraine | 5 | 8 | 6 | 8 | 12 | 3 | 6 | 4 | 4 | 6080 |
| Fanny Rogeaux | France | 6 | 7 | 6 | 6 | 3 | 2 | 2 | 3 | 3 | 4940 |
| 4 | Olga Bibik | Russia | 5 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 10 | 2 | 3 | 5 | 6 | 4180 |
| 5 | Juliette Danion | France | 5 | 7 | 6 | 6 | 11 | 2 | 4 | 5 | 16 | 3876 |
| 6 | Vera Kotasova-Kostruhova | Czech Republic | 6 | 9 | 6 | 7 | 4 | 1 | 1 | 3 | 3 | 3572 |
| 7 | Venera Chereshneva | Russia | 6 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 3 | 4 | 3268 |
| 8 | Olga Shalagina | Ukraine | 6 | 9 | 6 | 7 | 4 | 1 | 2 | 4 | 7 | 3040 |
| 9 | Myriam Motteau | France | 6 | 9 | 6 | 8 | 7 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 5 | 2812 |
| 10 | Yulia Abramchuk | Russia | 6 | 9 | 6 | 7 | 4 | 1 | 2 | 2 | 4 | 2584 |
| 11 | Stella Marchisio | Italy | 5 | 5 | 6 | 6 | 9 | 1 | 3 | 2 | 7 | 2356 |
| 12 | Corinne Theroux | France | 6 | 10 | 6 | 9 | 8 | 1 | 6 | 4 | 11 | 2128 |
Maksym Styenkovvy took the win. Tomasz Oleksy placed second and Alexander Peshekhonov placed third.
| Rank | Name | Nation | Qual. | 1/2-Final | small Final | Final | Result [9] |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Maksym Styenkovyy | Ukraine | 28.81 | 25.97 | 21.55 | 21.31 | 5500 |
| Tomasz Oleksy | Poland | 32.15 | 25.96 | 24.31 | 25.71 | 4400 |
| Alexander Peshekhonov | Russia | 32.74 | 26.96 | 22.11 | 3575 | |
| 4 | Oleksandr Salimov | Ukraine | 35.20 | 28.74 | 27.43 | 3025 | |
| 5 | Alexei Gadeev | Russia | 31.05 | 29.66 | 2805 | ||
| 6 | Dmytro Konovalov | Ukraine | 34.53 | 26.72 | 2585 | ||
| 7 | Sergei Sinitcyn | Russia | 28.29 | 31.74 | 2365 | ||
| 8 | Iakov Soubbotine | Russia | 26.64 | 27.01 | 2200 | ||
| 9 | Yevgen Kryvosheytsev | Ukraine | 29.01 | 27.19 | 2035 | ||
| 10 | Csaba Komondi |  Hungary | 32.53 | 30.03 | 1870 | ||
| 11 | Alexandre Chaoulsky | Russia | 28.46 | 30.87 | 1705 | ||
| 12 | Ivan Shyshkovskyy | Ukraine | 40.25 | 34.18 | 1540 | ||
| 13 | Salah Boulbahaiem | Belgium | 48.95 | 42.32 | 1430 | ||
| 14 | Mathieu Dutray | France | 34.80 | elim. | 1320 | ||
| 14 | Nicolas Januel | France | 33.84 | elim. | 1320 | ||
| 14 | Andrzej Mecherzynski-Wiktor | Poland | 33.45 | elim. | 1320 | ||
| 17 | C. M. Praveen |  India | 49.98 | 1008 | |||
| 18 | Kyrylo Shevchenko | Ukraine | elim. | 896 |
Olena Ryepko took the win. Tatiana Ruyga placed second and Yurina Valentina third.
| Rank | Name | Nation | Qual. | small Final | Final | Result [10] |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Olena Ryepko | Ukraine | 43.57 | 37.15 | 35.76 | 3300 |
| Tatiana Ruyga | Russia | 44.38 | 37.86 | 37.68 | 2640 |
| Valentina Yurina | Russia | 43.72 | 42.25 | 2145 | |
| 4 | Olga Zakharova | Ukraine | 43.09 | 38.86 | 1815 | |
| 5 | Mayya Piratinskaya | Russia | 45.38 | 1683 | ||
| 6 | Olga Bezhko | Ukraine | 53.68 | 1551 | ||
| 7 | Edyta Ropek | Poland | 48.96 | 1419 | ||
| 8 | Olena Ostapenko | Ukraine | 51.14 | 1320 | ||
| 9 | Svetlana Sutkina | Russia | 53.83 | 1776 | ||
| 10 | Agung Ethi Hendrawati |  Indonesia | 57.45 | 1632 | ||
| 11 | Sabine Knabl | Austria | 59.22 | 1488 | ||
| 12 | Nataliya Perlova | Ukraine | 60.54 | 1344 | ||
| 13 | M. N. Vathsala | India | 86.02 | 1248 | ||
| 14 | Bangalore Subbarao Archana | India | elim. | 1152 | ||
| 14 | Anna Stenkovaya | Russia | elim. | 1152 |
Chris Omprakash Sharma is an American rock climber and considered one of the greatest in the history of the sport. In 2001, Sharma became the world's first climber to redpoint a consensus 9a+ (5.15a) route, Realization/Biographie, ushering in what was called a "technical revolution" in sport climbing. In 2008, Sharma redpointed the first 9b (5.15b) route, Jumbo love, and 2013 became only the second to climb a 9b+ (5.15c) route La Dura Dura. Sharma is also known for climbing the world's first 9a+ (5.15a) and 9b (5.15b) deep-water solo routes.
Yuji Hirayama is a Japanese rock climber, specializing in lead climbing competitions. He won two Lead World Cup, in 1998, and 2000. He is noted as the first climber to onsight an 8c (5.14b) route, and for various speed records on El Capitan.
Ramón Julián Puigblanque is a professional Spanish rock climber specializing in lead climbing competitions. He won two World Championships, in 2007 and 2011, three European Championships, in 2004 2010 and 2015, and one Lead Climbing World Cup in 2010. From 2001 to 2016, he participated in 16 seasons of the World Cup, winning 21 World Cup stages. He has also climbed many routes of 9a (5.14d) and harder.
Tomáš Mrázek is a professional Czech rock climber specializing in lead climbing competitions. He won two World Championships, in 2003 and 2005, and one Lead World Cup, in 2004.
The IFSC Climbing World Championships are the biennial world championships for competition climbing organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). This event determines the male and female world champions in the three disciplines of sport climbing: lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing. Since 2012, a Combined ranking is also determined, for climbers competing in all disciplines, and additional medals are awarded based on that ranking. The first event was organized in Frankfurt in 1991.
USA Climbing is the national governing body of the sport of competition climbing in the United States. As a 501(c)3 non-profit, it promotes Sport Climbing which comprises the competition disciplines of bouldering, lead climbing, and speed climbing.
The IFSC Climbing European Championships are the biennial European championship for competition climbing organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). The first competition was held in Frankfurt in 1992.
The IFSC Climbing World Cup is a series of climbing competitions held annually and organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). The athletes compete in three disciplines: lead, bouldering and speed. The number of competitions and venues vary from year to year. The first World Cup was held in 1989, and included only lead climbing events. Speed climbing was introduced in 1998 and bouldering in 1999. For 18 seasons, from 1989 to 2006, World Cups were held under the auspices of UIAA and called UIAA Climbing World Cups. Since 2007, they are held under the auspices of IFSC.
Alexander Megos is a German rock climber. He was the first climber to on-sight a route graded 9a (5.14d). He has completed multiple routes and boulder problems that are notoriously difficult, including three 9b+ (5.15c) routes, two 9b (5.15b) routes, and some boulders with a confirmed 8C (V15) rating.
Jan Hojer is a German professional rock climber. He is known for winning one World Cup and two European Championships in bouldering. On May 2010, he climbed Action Directe, still considered to be one of the most difficult routes in the world. From 2013 to 2015, he sent several 8C (V15) boulder problems.
Muriel Sarkany is a Belgian professional rock climber. She is known for winning five Climbing World Cups. She also climbs outdoors, and is now considered the second-ever, female climber in history to climb a 9a (5.14d) route.
The 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup was the 33rd edition of the international sport climbing competition series, held in seven locations. There are 11 events: four bouldering, five lead, and two speed events. The season began on 16 April in Meiringen, Switzerland with the first bouldering competition in the season, and concluded on 4 September in Kranj, Slovenia. The International Federation of Sport Climbing had initially scheduled 18 events concluding on 31 October, but COVID-19 travel restrictions resulted in the cancellation of events in Xiamen and Wujiang in China, Jakarta in Indonesia and Seoul in South Korea.
The 2005 UIAA Climbing World Championships, the 8th edition, were held in Munich, Germany from 1 to 5 July 2005. It was organized by the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA). The championships consisted of lead, speed, and bouldering events.
The 2001 UIAA Climbing World Championships, the 6th edition, were held in Winterthur, Switzerland from 5 to 8 September 2001. It was organized by the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA). The championships consisted of lead, speed, and bouldering events. Bouldering was added as a new event.
The 1999 UIAA Climbing World Championships, the 5th edition, were held in Birmingham, United Kingdom from 2 to 3 December 1999. It was organized by the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA). The championships consisted of lead and speed events.
The 1997 UIAA Climbing World Championships, the 4th edition, were held in Paris, France, from 31 January to 1 February 1997. It was organized by the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA). The championships consisted of lead and speed events.
The 1995 UIAA Climbing World Championships, the 3rd edition, were held in Geneva, Switzerland from 5 to 6 May 1995. It was organized by the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA). The championships consisted of lead and speed events.
The 1993 UIAA Climbing World Championships, the 2nd edition, were held in Innsbruck, Austria from 29 to 30 April 1993. It was organized by the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA). The championships consisted of lead and speed events.
The 1991 UIAA Climbing World Championships, the first edition, were held in Frankfurt, Germany from 1 to 2 October 1991. It was organized by the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA). The championships consisted of lead and speed events.
Speed climbing competitions at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Cup were held at six locations, from 12 April to 20 October 2019. The top three in each competition received medals, and at the end of the season, the overall winners were awarded trophies. The overall winners were determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. Bassa Mawem won the men's seasonal title, YiLing Song won the women's seasonal title, and Russian Federation defended its national team title.