Monte Civetta

Last updated
Monte Civetta
Monte Civetta.jpg
Highest point
Elevation 3,220 m (10,560 ft)
Prominence 1,454 m (4,770 ft) [1]
Listing Alpine mountains above 3000 m
Coordinates 46°22′48″N12°03′12″E / 46.38000°N 12.05333°E / 46.38000; 12.05333
Geography
Italy relief location map.jpg
Red triangle with thick white border.svg
Monte Civetta
Parent range Dolomites
Climbing
First ascent 1855

Monte Civetta (3,220 m) is a prominent and major mountain of the Dolomites, in the Province of Belluno in northern Italy. Its north-west face can be viewed from the Taibon Agordino valley, and is classed as one of the symbols of the Dolomites. [2]

The mountain is thought to have been first climbed by Simeone di Silvestro in 1855, which, if true, makes it the first major Dolomite peak to be climbed. The north-western face, with its 1,000-metre-high cliff, was first climbed in 1925 by Emil Solleder and Gustl Lettenbauer. It is historically considered the first "sixth grade" in six-tier scale of alpinistic difficulties proposed by Willo Welzenbach (corresponding to 5.9). [3] Thirty years later UIAA used this as a basis for its grading system.

The famed Svan mountain climber Mikhail Khergiani died in a climbing accident on Monte Civetta in 1969. [4]

In 2013, a large tower of the NW side collapsed from Cima Su Alto. Nobody was in the wall or the hiking route below at the time. [5] In 2022, Reinhold Messner who had been climbing there in the 1990s decribed the spot, where the 400 m high, 50 m deep and 100 m wide tower broke off. [6]

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Dolomites</span> Mountain range in the Italian Alps

The Dolomites, also known as the Dolomite Mountains, Dolomite Alps or Dolomitic Alps, are a mountain range in northeastern Italy. They form part of the Southern Limestone Alps and extend from the River Adige in the west to the Piave Valley in the east. The northern and southern borders are defined by the Puster Valley and the Sugana Valley. The Dolomites are in the regions of Veneto, Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol and Friuli Venezia Giulia, covering an area shared between the provinces of Belluno, Vicenza, Verona, Trentino, South Tyrol, Udine and Pordenone.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Reinhold Messner</span> Italian mountaineer, adventurer and explorer (born 1944)

Reinhold Andreas Messner is an Italian climber, explorer, and author from South Tyrol. He made the first solo ascent of Mount Everest and, along with Peter Habeler, the first ascent of Everest without supplemental oxygen. He was the first person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders, doing so without supplementary oxygen. Messner was the first to cross Antarctica and Greenland with neither snowmobiles nor dog sleds and also crossed the Gobi Desert alone. He is widely considered to be the greatest mountaineer of all time.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Brenta group</span> Alpine mountain range in northeastern Italy

The Brenta Group or Brenta Dolomites is a mountain range, and a subrange of the Rhaetian Alps in the Southern Limestone Alps mountain group. They are located in the Province of Trentino, in northeastern Italy. It is the only dolomitic group west of the Adige River. Therefore, geographically, they have not always been considered a part of the Dolomites mountain ranges. Geologically, however, they definitely are - and therefore sometimes called the "Western Dolomites". As part of the Dolomites, the Brenta Group has been officially recognized as UNESCO World Heritage Site under the World Heritage Convention.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Monte Rosa</span> Massif in Switzerland and Italy

Monte Rosa is a mountain massif in the eastern part of the Pennine Alps, on the border between Italy and Switzerland (Valais). The highest peak of the massif, amongst several peaks of over 4.000 m, is the Dufourspitze, the second highest mountain in the Alps and western Europe, after Mont Blanc. The east face of the Monte Rosa towards Italy has a height of about 2.400 meters and is the highest mountain wall of the Alps.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Via ferrata</span> Type of protected alpine climbing route

A via ferrata is a protected climbing route found in the Alps and certain other Alpine locations. The protection includes steel fixtures such as cables and railings to arrest the effect of any fall, which the climber can either hold onto or clip into using climbing protection. Some via ferrata can also include steel fixtures that provide aid in overcoming the obstacles encountered, including steel ladders and steel steps. The term "via ferrata" is used in most countries and languages except notably in German-speaking regions, which use Klettersteig—"climbing path".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Alta Via 1</span> High altitude footpath, Dolomites

Alta Via 1 is a 125-kilometre-long high-level public footpath which runs through the eastern Dolomites in Italy. It is also known as the Dolomite High Route 1. It passes through some of the finest scenery in the Dolomites. The path runs south from Pragser Wildsee, near Toblach, to Belluno. Prags can be accessed by bus, and Belluno has both train and bus services.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Marmolada</span> Mountain in Italy

Marmolada is a mountain in northeastern Italy and the highest mountain of the Dolomites. It lies between the borders of Trentino and Veneto. The Marmolada is an ultra-prominent peak (Ultra), known as the "Queen of the Dolomites".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">History of rock climbing</span> Key chronological milestones

In the history of rock climbing, the three main sub-disciplines—bouldering, single-pitch climbing, and big wall climbing—can trace their origins to late 19th-century Europe. Bouldering started in Fontainebleau, and was advanced by Pierre Allain in the 1930s, and John Gill in the 1950s. Big wall climbing started in the Dolomites, and was spread across the Alps in the 1930s by climbers such as Emilio Comici and Riccardo Cassin, and in the 1950s by Walter Bonatti, before reaching Yosemite where it was led in the 1950s to 1970s by climbers such as Royal Robbins. Single-pitch climbing started pre-1900 in both the Lake District and in Saxony, and by the late-1970s had spread widely with climbers such as Ron Fawcett (Britain), Bernd Arnold (Germany), Patrick Berhault (France), Ron Kauk and John Bachar (USA).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Antelao</span> Mountain in Italy

Monte Antelao is the highest mountain in the eastern Dolomites in northeastern Italy, southeast of the town of Cortina d'Ampezzo, in the region of Cadore. The Monte Antelao is an ultra-prominent peak (Ultra).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tre Cime di Lavaredo</span> Mountains in Italy

The Tre Cime di Lavaredo, also called the Drei Zinnen ; pronounced[ˌdʁaɪˈtsɪnən] ), are three distinctive battlement-like peaks, in the Sexten Dolomites of northeastern Italy. They are probably one of the best-known mountain groups in the Alps. The three peaks, from east to west, are:

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kesselkogel</span> Mountain in Italy

The Kesselkogel is the highest mountain of the Rosengarten group in the Dolomites in South Tyrol, Italy.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Croda da Lago</span> Mountain in Italy

Croda da Lago is a small mountain chain in the central Dolomites in Veneto, northern Italy, just east of the Giau Pass. The highest peak of the group, the Cima d'Ambrizzola has an elevation of 2,715 metres. The range is very popular with hikers and mountain cyclists.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Emilio Comici</span> Italian mountaineer

Leonardo Emilio Comici was an Italian mountain climber and caver. He made numerous ascents in the Eastern Alps, particularly in the Dolomites and in the Julian Alps. Comici was nicknamed the "Angel of the Dolomites".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cima Tosa</span> Mountain in Italy

Cima Tosa is a mountain in the Brenta group, a subgroup of the Rhaetian Alps in the Italian Region of Trentino-Alto Adige, with a reported height of 3,136 metres (10,289 ft). it is the second highest peak of the Brenta group in the southern limestone Alps after the Cima Brenta.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Monte Pelmo</span> Mountain in Italy

Monte Pelmo is a mountain of the Dolomites, in the province of Belluno, Northeastern Italy.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tofana di Rozes</span> Mountain of the Dolomites in the Province of Belluno, Veneto, Italy

Tofana di Rozes is a mountain of the Dolomites in the Province of Belluno, Veneto, Italy. Located west of the resort of Cortina d'Ampezzo, the mountain's giant three-edged pyramid shape and its vertical south face, above the Falzarego Pass, makes it the most popular peak in the Tofane group, and one of the most popular in the Dolomites.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Averau</span> Mountain in Italy

Averau (2,649m) is the highest mountain of the Nuvolau Group in the Dolomites, located in the Province of Belluno, northern Italy. It lies between the Falzarego Pass and the Giau Pass. The mountain is usually climbed from its northern face, which is less steep than its other faces, by the Averau ferrata. The view from the summit takes in many of the Dolomitic giants, including Monte Civetta, Monte Pelmo, Antelao and Sorapiss.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Monte Bìvera</span> Mountain in Italy

Monte Bìvera is a mountain of the Carnic Alps in Friuli, northeast Italy. It lies south of the main chain of the Carnics, north of the Tagliamento River and above the resort of Forni di Sopra. It is a twin peaked mountain, with the slightly lower Clapsavon just to the west, and it is formed of Limestone. A popular mountain to climb, from its summit many of the giants of the Dolomites can be seen to the West, the mighty Großvenediger to the north and the Julian Alps in the east.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Marmarole</span> Mountain in Italy

Marmarole is a mountain group of the Dolomites in Belluno, northern Italy. Located west of the Cadore Valley and north-east of the major peak of Antelao, it is known as a wild range, possibly the wildest of the entire Dolomites, due to the relative difficulty of climbing its peaks and its isolation from nearby valleys. Conversely, it is a popular destination for experienced hikers and alpinists.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Monte Brentoni</span> Mountain in Italy

Monte Brentonti is a mountain of the Carnic Alps in the Belluno in Veneto, north-eastern Italy. It is the second highest peak of the Southern Carnics after Monte Terza Grande, and like its higher neighbour, is a Dolomitic mountain, being separated by the main Dolomite range only by the River Piave.

References

  1. "Monte Civetta". Peakbagger.com. Retrieved 13 January 2015.
  2. "Monte Civetta - summitpost.org". summitpost.org. Retrieved 13 January 2015.
  3. Scott, Doug (1981). Big Wall Climbing. Oxford University Press. pp. 27–33. ISBN   978-0195202700.
  4. "Альпинисты Северной столицы. ХЕРГИАНИ МИХАИЛ ВИССАРИОНОВИЧ". www.alpklubspb.ru. Retrieved 2020-04-30.
  5. ALESSANDRO BAÙ (2013-11-21). "Civetta, rock fall on Su Alto in the Dolomites". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2024-02-26.
  6. deutschlandfunkkultur.de, Ernst Vogt (2022-12-18). "Bergsteigen und Klimawandel - Das Risiko klettert mit". Deutschlandfunk Kultur (in German). Retrieved 2024-02-26.