Personal information | |
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Nationality | German |
Born | February 28, 1947 |
Occupation | Rock climber and mountaineer |
Bernd Arnold (born 28 February 1947) is a German rock climber and mountaineer. He is known for more than 900 first ascents in the East German Saxon Switzerland climbing region. During the 1970s and 1980s, he established most of the hardest routes in the region and became one of the most influential German climbers of his era. He is well-known for climbing barefoot, even on very hard routes. [1]
His first remarkable ascent was the Route Zehn (VIIIc) at Meurerturm in 1966, when he was only 19 years old. [2] In 1970 he climbed the Nordwand at the rock tower Schwager in the Schrammsteine area and achieved a difficulty of grade IXb. This might have been the hardest free climbing route in the world at the time. First ascents such as the Nonplusultra (IXb) at Mittlerer Torstein, Talseite (IXb) at Teufelsspitze, and Lineal (IXa) at Meurerturm followed. In 1977 Arnold was the first to climb grade IXc when he achieved his first ascent of Direkte Superlative at Großer Wehlturm.
In the early 1980s, developments in sport climbing pushed into ever harder territories. Inspired by the growing international competition at the top level of the climbing world, Arnold managed to reach the difficulty of Xa in 1982 and Xb in 1983. His first ascents of Barometer für Stimmungen at Heringstein and Garten Eden at Rokokoturm, both Xc, marked the climax of his rock-climbing career in 1986.
After the Peaceful Revolution of 1989, Arnold was able to travel to many mountain regions around the world. During the Cold War era, he was only in a few exceptional cases allowed to pursue climbing and mountaineering outside the Eastern Bloc. Nevertheless, he became close friends with West German climbers Kurt Albert and Wolfgang Güllich, who visited Saxon Switzerland in the early 1980s and managed to repeat some of Arnold's hardest routes. [3] With Kurt Albert he later undertook expeditions to Patagonia and the Karakorum.
Arnold remains an active climber today and is a proponent of reforming the very strict traditional climbing regulations of the Saxon Switzerland area. In 2008, he was awarded an honorary citizenship by his hometown of Hohnstein.
Bernd Arnold grew up in the small East German town of Hohnstein, where he still lives today. Arnold is a professional letterpress printer and now owns two mountaineering equipment stores. He also offers climbing courses in his home region. He is married and has one daughter. [4]
In rock climbing, mountaineering, and other climbing disciplines, climbers give a grade to a climbing route or boulder problem, intended to describe concisely the difficulty and danger of climbing it. Different types of climbing each have their own grading systems, and many nationalities developed their own, distinctive grading systems.
In mountaineering and climbing, a first ascent, is the first successful documented climb to the top of a mountain or the top of a particular climbing route. Early 20th-century mountaineers and climbers were focused on reaching the tops of iconic mountains and climbing routes by whatever means possible, often using considerable amounts of aid climbing, or with large expedition style support teams that laid "siege" to the climb.
Ice climbing is a climbing discipline which involves ascending routes that consist only of frozen water. To ascend the route, the ice climber uses specialist equipment, particularly double ice axes and rigid crampons. To protect the route, the ice climber uses steel ice screws that require skill to employ safely and rely on the ice holding firm in any fall. Ice climbing routes can vary significantly by type, and include seasonally frozen waterfalls, high permanently frozen alpine couloirs, and large hanging icicles.
Free climbing is a form of rock climbing in which the climber can only use climbing equipment for climbing protection, but not as an aid to help in their progression in ascending the route. Free climbing therefore cannot use any of the tools that are used in aid climbing to help overcome the obstacles encountered while ascending a route. The development of free climbing was an important moment in the history of rock climbing, including the concept and definition of what determined a first free ascent of a route by a climber.
Saxon Switzerland is a hilly climbing area and national park in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains, located around the Elbe valley south-east of Dresden in Saxony, Germany. Together with Bohemian Switzerland in the Czech Republic, the region is known as Saxon-Bohemian Switzerland.
Wolfgang Güllich was a German rock climber, who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of the sport. Güllich dominated sport climbing after his 1984 ascent of Kanal im Rücken, the world's first-ever redpoint of an 8b (5.13d) route. He continued to set more "new hardest grade" breakthroughs than any other climber in sport climbing history, with Punks in the Gym in 1985, the world's first-ever 8b+ (5.14a), Wallstreet in 1987, the world's first-ever 8c (5.14b), and with Action Directe in 1991, the world's first-ever 9a (5.14d).
The Falkenstein is one of the best-known climbing peaks in Saxon Switzerland. It is situated near the rocky Schrammsteine ridge southeast of the town of Bad Schandau. The Falkenstein is nearly 90 m high and consists of sandstone. In the Middle Ages there were fortifications on top of the rock. Even today, the steps carved into the rock are still visible.
Andreas "Anderl" Heckmair was a German mountain climber and guide who led the first successful ascent of the Eiger north face in July 1938.
The six great north faces of the Alps are a group of vertical faces in the Swiss, French, and Italian Alps known in mountaineering for their difficulty, danger, and great height. The "Trilogy" is the three hardest of these north faces, being the Eiger, the Grandes Jorasses, and the Matterhorn.
Rudolf Fehrmann, a German, was a pioneer rock climber at Elbsandsteingebirge near Dresden.
In the history of rock climbing, the three main sub-disciplines—bouldering, single-pitch climbing, and big wall climbing—can trace their origins to late 19th-century Europe. Bouldering started in Fontainebleau, and was advanced by Pierre Allain in the 1930s, and John Gill in the 1950s. Big wall climbing started in the Dolomites, and was spread across the Alps in the 1930s by climbers such as Emilio Comici and Riccardo Cassin, and in the 1950s by Walter Bonatti, before reaching Yosemite where it was led in the 1950s to 1970s by climbers such as Royal Robbins. Single-pitch climbing started pre-1900 in both the Lake District and in Saxony, and by the 1970s had spread widely with climbers such as Ron Fawcett (Britain), Bernd Arnold (Germany), Patrick Berhault (France), Ron Kauk and John Bachar (USA).
Saxon Switzerland National Park, is a national park in the German Free State of Saxony, near the Saxon capital Dresden. It covers two areas of 93.5 km2 (36.1 mi2) in the heart of the German part of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains, which is often called (the) Saxon Switzerland.
Fritz Kasparek was an Austrian mountaineer who was on the team that made the first successful ascent of the Eiger north face.
The Battert is a hill, 567.9 m above sea level (NHN), on the western edge of the Northern Black Forest north of Baden-Baden in Germany. On its western slopes are the ruins of Hohenbaden Castle, on the southern side is the climbing area and nature reserve called the Battert Rocks (Battertfelsen). On the hill ridge are the remains of a circular rampart, probably built by Celtic settlers. On the eastern side lies the village of Ebersteinburg.
The Lokomotive is a striking climbing rock north of Kurort Rathen in Saxon Switzerland in Germany. The rock, which resembles a steam locomotive in appearance, is also known as Große Ruine, is about 30 metres high and is divided into two parts: known as Lokomotive-Dom and Lokomotive-Esse. The ridge between the two is called the Kesselgrat, the rock teeth next to the Esse as Pfeife ("Whistle"). For a short time there was a weather vane on the dome in the shape of a wheel. The Lokomotive rises on the massif of the Honigsteine.
The Mönch is a rock pinnacle and popular climbing peak in Saxon Switzerland in Germany near the spa town of Rathen. The weather vane on the summit, in the shape of a tin monk, is visible from afar and acts as a navigation aid.
The Barbarine is the best-known free-standing rock formation in the German part of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains. It is a rock pinnacle, 42.7 metres (140 ft) high, and is the symbol of Saxon Switzerland. It was first climbed on 19 September 1905.
Saxon Switzerland is the largest and one of the best-known climbing regions in Germany, located in the Free State of Saxony. The region is largely coterminous with the natural region of the same name, Saxon Switzerland, but extends well beyond the territory of the National Park within it. It includes the western part of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains and is the oldest non-Alpine climbing region in Germany. Its history of climbing dates back to the first ascent in modern times of the Falkenstein by Bad Schandau gymnasts in 1864. Currently, there are over 1,100 summits with more than 17,000 climbing routes in the Saxon Switzerland area.
The Teufelsturm is a prominent rock tower and climbing rock formed of Elbe Sandstone, about forty metres high in Saxon Switzerland in northeastern Germany. It is located east of the River Elbe on the upper edge of the valley between Schmilka and Bad Schandau in the Schrammsteinen. The Teufelsturm is also referred to as the "Symbol of Saxon Climbing".
The Kurt Schlosser Saxon Mountaineers' Choir was founded in 1927. The choir consists of 140 male voices. Amongst its repertoire are classical and contemporary works as well as traditional mountaineering, hiking, regional and folk songs.