Bouldering at the 2018 IFSC Climbing World Cup

Last updated
Bouldering
at the 2018 IFSC Climbing World Cup
KRUDER Jernej SLO 6121.jpg
Jernej Kruder, SLO winner of the world cup season
LocationFlag of Switzerland (Pantone).svg Meiringen, Switzerland

Flag of Russia.svg Moscow, Russia
Flag of the People's Republic of China.svg Chongqing, China
Flag of the People's Republic of China.svg Tai'an, China
Flag of Japan.svg Hachiōji, Japan
Flag of the United States.svg Vail, United States

Contents

Flag of Germany.svg Munich, Germany
Dates13 April – 18 August 2018
Champions
Men Flag of Slovenia.svg Jernej Kruder
Women Flag of Japan.svg Miho Nonaka

The 2018 season of the IFSC Climbing World Cup was the 20th season of the competition. Bouldering competitions were held at seven stops of the IFSC Climbing World Cup. The bouldering season began on April 13 at the World Cup in Meiringen, and concluded on 18 August with the World Cup in Munich. At each stop a qualifying was held on the first day of the competition, and the semi-final and final rounds are conducted on the second day of the competition. The winners were awarded trophies, and the best three finishers received medals. At the end of the season an overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. Jernej Kruder won the seasonal title in the men's competition and Miho Nonaka won the women's. Japan won the national team competition.

Changes from the previous season

For the 2018 season the IFSC changed the scoring method for its tournaments. Previously topped boulders were the deciding factor, followed as tiebreakers in decreasing order of importance: attempts to tops, bonus holds (renamed to zones), and attempts to bonus holds. The first and second tiebreakers switched places which means that the results were determined by tops, zones, attempts to tops, and attempts to zones. [1]

Also athletes now need to demonstrate firm control of the two starting hand holds. Previously touching all four marked start points in any manner was deemed sufficient to start an attempt.

Overall ranking

Winners 2018 Men: 1st place: Jernej Kruder, 2nd place: Tomoa Narasaki, 3rd place: Rei Sugimoto Climbing World Cup 2018 Boulder Season Men 7837.jpg
Winners 2018 Men: 1st place: Jernej Kruder, 2nd place: Tomoa Narasaki, 3rd place: Rei Sugimoto
Winners 2018 Women: 1st place: Miho Nonaka, 2nd place: Akiyo Noguchi, 3rd place: Fanny Gibert Climbing World Cup 2018 Boulder Season Women 7791.jpg
Winners 2018 Women: 1st place: Miho Nonaka, 2nd place: Akiyo Noguchi, 3rd place: Fanny Gibert

The overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There were seven competitions in the season, but only the best six attempts were counted. The national ranking was the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed (in brackets) were not counted.

Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2018: [2]

RankNamePoints Munich Vail Hachiōji Tai'an Chongqing Moscow Meiringen
1 Flag of Slovenia.svg Jernej Kruder 442.002. 80.004. 55.008. (38.00)2. 80.006. 47.002. 80.001. 100.00
2 Flag of Japan.svg Tomoa Narasaki 400.009. 35.003. 65.002. 80.008. 40.0011. (31.00)1. 100.002. 80.00
3 Flag of Japan.svg Rei Sugimoto 334.008. 40.001. 100.003. 65.004. 55.0012. (28.00)10. 34.008. 40.00
4 Flag of Russia.svg Alexey Rubtsov 296.0014. (23.00)9. 37.005. 51.0012. 27.003. 65.005. 51.003. 65.00
5 Flag of Slovenia.svg Gregor Vezonik 280.001. 100.0014. 24.00—3. 65.0013. 26.003. 65.00—
6 Flag of Japan.svg Kokoro Fujii 260.007. 43.0018. (16.00)16. 20.005. 51.001. 100.0017. 18.0012. 28.00
7 Flag of South Korea.svg Jongwon Chon 247.00—7. 43.004. 55.006. 47.00—4. 55.006. 47.00
8 Flag of Japan.svg Tomoaki Takata 218.0017. 18.006. 47.0011. 31.0010. 34.0025. (5.00)9. 37.005. 51.00
9 Flag of Japan.svg Yuji Fujiwaki 207.005. 51.008. 40.0013. 26.0011. 31.0015. 22.0028. (3.00)9. 37.00
9 Flag of Austria.svg Jakob Schubert 207.003. 65.00——12. 27.004. 55.0025. 5.004. 55.00

Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2018: [3]

RankNamePoints Munich Vail Hachiōji Tai'an Chongqing Moscow Meiringen
1 Flag of Japan.svg Miho Nonaka 500.002. 80.002. 80.002. 80.002. 80.002. 80.002. (80.00)1. 100.00
2 Flag of Japan.svg Akiyo Noguchi 495.003. 65.003. 65.001. 100.001. 100.001. 100.003. 65.003. (65.00)
3 Flag of France.svg Fanny Gibert 320.004. 55.004. 55.007. 43.003. 65.008. (40.00)5. 51.005. 51.00
4 Flag of Slovenia.svg Janja Garnbret 280.001. 100.00————1. 100.002. 80.00
5 Flag of Slovenia.svg Katja Kadic 246.005. 51.0023. (7.00)11. 31.007. 43.006. 47.0010. 34.008. 40.00
6 Flag of Serbia.svg Staša Gejo 222.00——4. 55.004. 55.003. 65.0015. 22.0013. 25.00
7 Flag of Russia.svg Ekaterina Kipriianova 210.006. 47.00—3. 65.0010. 34.004. 55.0021. 9.00—
8 Flag of Japan.svg Futaba Ito 179.007. 43.00—6. 47.0013. 26.0016. 20.008. 40.0027. 3.00
9 Flag of the United Kingdom.svg Shauna Coxsey 174.00—7. 43.009. 37.00——6. 47.006. 47.00
10 Flag of Germany.svg Alma Bestvater 168.0012. 28.006. 47.005. 51.0023. 7.0012. 28.0023. 7.00—

National Teams

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Bouldering World Cup 2018: [4]

Country names as used by the IFSC

RankNamePoints Munich Vail Hachiōji Tai'an Chongqing Moscow Meiringen
1 Flag of Japan.svg 2269(337)387419363371362367
2 Flag of Slovenia.svg Slovenia 1344345(108)109208139310233
3Flag of France.svg France823163(91)10211119793157
4 Flag of Austria.svg Austria73517361(22)11015464173
5 Flag of Russia.svg Russian Federation 59185(37)1441011217268
6 Flag of Germany.svg Germany534103143695811249(27)
7Flag of the United States.svg United States5031528486579(3)52
8 Flag of South Korea.svg Republic of Korea 4180817589—9875
9 Flag of the United Kingdom.svg Great Britain 366217410130(19)4793
10 Flag of Italy.svg Italy26922(1)1392474829

Meiringen, Switzerland (13–14 April)

Women

99 athletes attended the World Cup in Meiringen. Miho Nonaka (4T4z 5 5) won the competition in front of Janja Garnbret (4T4z 7 5). [5]

RankNameScore
1 Flag of Japan.svg Miho Nonaka 4T4z 5 5
2 Flag of Slovenia.svg Janja Garnbret 4T4z 7 5
3 Flag of Japan.svg Akiyo Noguchi 4T4z 9 9
4 Flag of Austria.svg Sandra Lettner3T4z 5 5
5 Flag of France.svg Fanny Gibert3T3z 4 3
6 Flag of the United Kingdom.svg Shauna Coxsey 2T4z 5 11

Men

109 athletes attended the World Cup in Meiringen. Jernej Kruder (3T4z 7 8) won the competition in front of Tomoa Narasaki (2T4z 3 7). [5]

RankNameScore
1 Flag of Slovenia.svg Jernej Kruder 3T4z 7 8
2 Flag of Japan.svg Tomoa Narasaki 2T4z 3 7
3 Flag of Russia.svg Alexey Rubtsov 2T4z 5 13
4 Flag of Austria.svg Jakob Schubert 2T3z 7 8
5 Flag of Japan.svg Tamoaki Takata1T3z 3 5
6 Flag of South Korea.svg Jongwon Chon 1T2z 1 2
7 Flag of France.svg Manuel Cornu0T3z 0 9

Moscow, Russia (21–22 April)

Women

100 athletes attended the World Cup in Moscow. Janja Garnbret (4T4z 7 5) won the competition in front of Miho Nonaka (4T4z 7 5), [6] thereby reversing their finish order from Meiringen. As Garnbret and Nonoka achieved identical scores in the final their semi-final scores were used to determine final standings. Akiyo Noguchi, Fanny Gibert, and Shauna Coxsey came in 3rd, 5th, and 6th respectively, thus repeating their exact results from Meiringen. Petra Klingler completed the final in 4th place.

RankNameScore
1 Flag of Slovenia.svg Janja Garnbret 4T4z 7 5
2 Flag of Japan.svg Miho Nonaka 4T4z 7 5
3 Flag of Japan.svg Akiyo Noguchi 3T4z 8 9
4 Flag of Switzerland (Pantone).svg Petra Klingler3T4z 9 10
5 Flag of France.svg Fanny Gibert2T3z 2 3
6 Flag of the United Kingdom.svg Shauna Coxsey 1T3z 4 6

Men

109 athletes attended the World Cup in Moscow. Tomoa Narasaki (4T4z 12 12) won the competition in front of Jernej Kruder (3T4z 5 6). [6] Thus –as in the women's competition– the winner and runner-up from Meiringen switched places. Jongwon Chon and Alexey Rubtsov also managed back to back final appearances.

RankNameScore
1 Flag of Japan.svg Tomoa Narasaki 4T4z 12 12
2 Flag of Slovenia.svg Jernej Kruder 3T4z 5 6
3 Flag of Slovenia.svg Gregor Vezonik3T4z 6 9
4 Flag of South Korea.svg Jongwon Chon 3T4z 9 18
5 Flag of Russia.svg Alexey Rubtsov 2T4z 4 27
6 Flag of Italy.svg Gabriele Moroni2T3z 7 14

Chongqing, China (5–6 May)

The Chongqing World Cup was held outdoors and is affected by humidity to a greater extent than the European hosted World Cups. A lightning storm before the semi-finals made conditions difficult for climbers. The routesetting used a large number of volumes which exhausted Gecko King's inventory. [7]

Women

47 athletes attended the World Cup in Chongqing. Akiyo Noguchi (4T4z 5 5) won the competition in front of Miho Nonaka (3T3z 7 7). They led from the start as the only two competitors to top the first problem, a burly overhang with a feet first start. [7] Janja Garnbret and Shauna Coxsey, who had made the finals of both previous World Cups did not attend Chongqing. [8]

Notably Gejo finished in front of Kipriianova for the bronze medal, a result that would have been reversed under the old scoring rules. This was the first time that results under the new system, which weights zones (bonuses) above attempts, differed from that of the old system. [9]

RankNameScore
1 Flag of Japan.svg Akiyo Noguchi 4T4z 5 5
2 Flag of Japan.svg Miho Nonaka 3T3z 7 7
3 Flag of Serbia.svg Staša Gejo1T3z 2 7
4 Flag of Russia.svg Ekaterina Kipriianova1T1z 1 1
5 Flag of Austria.svg Jessica Pilz1T1z 2 1
6 Flag of Slovenia.svg Katja Kadic1T1z 4 4

Men

83 athletes attended the World Cup in Chongqing. Of the four final problem the first one was flashed by all competitors, and the fourth yielded no points for anyone, thus the final standings were effectively decided by the second and fourth boulder only. Kokoro Fujii (3T3z 9 8) won the competition in front of Sean McColl (2T3z 2 4). Jernej Kruder and Alexey Rubtsov had their third straight finals appearances this season. [8] Jongwon Chon was not competing because of a scheduling clash with the South Korean Asian Games qualifications. [7]

RankNameScore
1 Flag of Japan.svg Kokoro Fujii3T3z 9 8
2 Flag of Canada (Pantone).svg Sean McColl 2T3z 2 4
3 Flag of Russia.svg Alexey Rubtsov 2T3z 5 7
4 Flag of Austria.svg Jakob Schubert 2T2z 2 2
5 Flag of Germany.svg Jan Hojer 1T3z 1 3
6 Flag of Slovenia.svg Jernej Kruder 1T2z 1 3

Tai'an, China (12–13 May)

Women

47 athletes attended the World Cup in Tai'an. Just as in Chongqing Akiyo Noguchi (4T4z 5 5) and Miho Nonaka (4T4z 10 7) dominated the women's final, each finishing two tops ahead of the competition. Noguchi claimed her second straight win while Nonaka continued her streak of finishing at least second in each bouldering competition this season.

Shauna Coxsey, Janja Garnbret and Petra Klingler were not competing. [10]

RankNameScore
1 Flag of Japan.svg Akiyo Noguchi 4T4z 5 5
2 Flag of Japan.svg Miho Nonaka 4T4z 10 7
3 Flag of France.svg Fanny Gibert2T3z 6 7
4 Flag of Serbia.svg Staša Gejo1T3z 3 7
5 Flag of Austria.svg Johanna Färber1T3z 4 10
6 Flag of the United States.svg Kyra Condie0T3z 0 5

Men

93 athletes attended the World Cup in Tai'an. The final was decided on the final problem after all climbers achieved scores on the first three problems. Alex Khazanov (3T4z 7 9) was the only athlete to top the last boulder, and thus won the World Cup in front of Jernej Kruder (2T4z 2 5), the only climber to reach all finals of the season.

RankNameScore
1 Flag of Israel.svg Alex Khazanov3T4z 7 9
2 Flag of Slovenia.svg Jernej Kruder 2T4z 2 5
3 Flag of Slovenia.svg Gregor Vezonik2T4z 4 10
4 Flag of Japan.svg Rei Sugimoto2T4z 4 10
5 Flag of Japan.svg Kokoro Fujii2T4z 7 5
6 Flag of South Korea.svg Jongwon Chon 2T3z 6 6

Hachioji, Japan (2–3 June)

Women

68 athletes attended the World Cup in Hachioji. As in the two preceding World Cups Akiyo Noguchi (3T3z 5 5) won in front of Miho Nonaka (3T3z 6 6). After the World Cup Noguchi and Nonaka thus led the competition for the seasonal title by a sufficient margin to leave only them in contention for first and second place. [11]

RankNameScore
1 Flag of Japan.svg Akiyo Noguchi 3T3z 5 5
2 Flag of Japan.svg Miho Nonaka 3T3z 6 6
3 Flag of Russia.svg Ekaterina Kipriianova2T2z 6 5
4 Flag of Serbia.svg Staša Gejo0T2z 0 5
5 Flag of Germany.svg Alma Bestvater0T2z 0 6
6 Flag of Japan.svg Futaba Ito0T1z 0 9

Men

91 athletes attended the World Cup in Hachioji. Gabriele Moroni (2T4z 3 6) won his first World Cup in his career of more than ten years. Tomoa Narasaki (1T3z 1 6) came in second. Jernej Kruder missed the finals for the first time in the season.

RankNameScore
1 Flag of Italy.svg Gabriele Moroni2T4z 3 6
2 Flag of Japan.svg Tomoa Narasaki 1T3z 1 6
3 Flag of Japan.svg Rei Sugimoto1T3z 4 8
4 Flag of South Korea.svg Jongwon Chon 1T2z 2 6
5 Flag of Russia.svg Alexey Rubtsov 0T2z 0 4
6 Flag of Japan.svg Kai Harada0T1z 0 8

Vail, United States (8–9 June)

Women

58 athletes attended the World Cup in Vail. Alex Puccio (3T3z 6 4) won, attending her first World Cup of the 2018 season. The second place went to Miho Nonaka (2T3z 3 4), who continued her streak of finishing at least second in all World Cups of the season. The winner of the three previous World Cups, Akiyo Noguchi (1T3z 2 6), came in third, winning her tenth consecutive medal at Bouldering World Cups.

RankNameScore
1 Flag of the United States.svg Alex Puccio 3T3z 6 4
2 Flag of Japan.svg Miho Nonaka 2T3z 3 4
3 Flag of Japan.svg Akiyo Noguchi 1T3z 2 6
4 Flag of France.svg Fanny Gibert1T1z 5 2
5 Flag of the United States.svg Kyra Condie 0T2z 0 4
6 Flag of Germany.svg Alma Bestvater0T1z 0 8

Men

91 athletes attended the World Cup in Vail. Rei Sugimoto (3T4z 4 5) won in front of Sean Bailey (2T4z 2 6).

RankNameScore
1 Flag of Japan.svg Rei Sugimoto3T4z 4 5
2 Flag of the United States.svg Sean Bailey 2T4z 2 6
3 Flag of Japan.svg Tomoa Narasaki 2T4z 3 5
4 Flag of Slovenia.svg Jernej Kruder 0T4z 0 7
5 Flag of Japan.svg Ryuichi Murai0T4z 0 8
6 Flag of Japan.svg Tomoaki Takata0T3z 0 15

Munich, Germany (17–18 August)

Women

102 athletes attended the World Cup in Munich. Janja Garnbret (4T4z 4 4) won, solving each problem in her first attempt. The second place went to Miho Nonaka (4T4z 5 5), who thus claimed the overall Bouldering World Cup title. The third place in Munich and the second place overall went to Akiyo Noguchi (4T4z 7 6). [12]

RankNameScore
1 Flag of Slovenia.svg Janja Garnbret 4T4z 4 4
2 Flag of Japan.svg Miho Nonaka 4T4z 5 5
3 Flag of Japan.svg Akiyo Noguchi 4T4z 7 6
4 Flag of France.svg Fanny Gibert1T4z 1 8
5 Flag of Slovenia.svg Katja Kadic1T2z 1 5
6 Flag of Russia.svg Ekaterina Kipriianova0T3z 0 5

Men

128 athletes attended the World Cup in Munich. The seasonal overall Bouldering title was decided after the semi-finals when Tomoa Narasaki failed to advance to the finals. Jernej Kruder thus secured the overall title regardless of his eventual finish in the Munich men's final. Gregor Vezonik (2T4z 2 13) won the competition with Kruder (2T3z 9 7) coming second and Jakob Schubert (2T3z 9 11) finishing in third place. [12]

RankNameScore
1 Flag of Slovenia.svg Gregor Vezonik2T4z 2 13
2 Flag of Slovenia.svg Jernej Kruder 2T3z 9 7
3 Flag of Austria.svg Jakob Schubert 2T3z 9 11
4 Flag of Japan.svg Yoshiyuki Ogata2T3z 11 13
5 Flag of Japan.svg Yuji Fujiwaki2T2z 5 5
6 Flag of France.svg Mickaël Mawem1T2z 1 3

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References

  1. ↑ "Starting now: the 2018 IFSC World Cup Season". BMC. 12 April 2018. Retrieved 18 April 2018.
  2. ↑ "IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2018 Men OVERALL Ranking".
  3. ↑ "IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2018 Women OVERALL Ranking".
  4. ↑ "IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2018 National Team Ranking".
  5. 1 2 "Meiringen 2018: Nonaka and Kruder take the gold in a great final". OnBouldering.com. 14 April 2018. Retrieved 18 April 2018.
  6. 1 2 "Narasaki and Garnbret claim the gold in Moscow". OnBouldering.com. 22 April 2018. Retrieved 23 April 2018.
  7. 1 2 3 John Burgman (8 May 2018). "Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Chongqing World Cup 2018—Bouldering and Speed". Climbing.com. Retrieved 15 May 2018.
  8. 1 2 "Double gold for Japan, Noguchi and Fujii win in Chongqing". OnBouldering.com. 6 May 2018. Retrieved 6 May 2018.
  9. ↑ IFSC. "IFSC Climbing World Cup Chongqing 2018 - Bouldering - Finals - Men/Women" . Retrieved 15 May 2018– via YouTube.
  10. ↑ John Burgman. "Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Tai'an World Cup 2018—Bouldering and Speed". Climbing. Retrieved 16 May 2018.
  11. ↑ "No rest allowed, time for Vail 2018". OnBouldering.com. 7 June 2018. Retrieved 8 June 2018.
  12. 1 2 "Double gold for Slovenia. Nonaka and Kruder, overall champions". OnBouldering.com. 18 August 2018. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
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