Rupert Lycett Green

Last updated

Rupert William Lycett Green (born 24 October 1938) is a British fashion designer known for his contribution to 1960s male fashion through his tailor's shop/boutique Blades in London.

Contents

Early life

Lycett Green was born in England, the son of Commander David Cecil Lycett Green RN and Angela Courage (who later married Ralph Beckett, 3rd Baron Grimthorpe). His grandfather is Sir Edward Lycett Green, 2nd Baronet, and his great-grandfather is Sir Edward Green, 1st Baronet. He was educated at Eton College. [1]

Blades

Blades' former Burlington Gardens shop, now Ede & Ravenscroft Ede Ravenscroft 3177.JPG
Blades' former Burlington Gardens shop, now Ede & Ravenscroft

In 1962, Lycett Green opened his shop Blades in Dover Street, London, with "high tailoring standards but a young man's view of cut and proportion". [2] The shop's slogan was "for today rather than the memory of yesterday" and they offered high fashion ready-to-wear clothes. [3] In 1965, John Crosby described Lycett Green's clothes as having "an elegance and a sort of look-at-me dash not seen since Edwardian times." [4] In 1965, Cecil Beaton, a regular customer of Blades, stated "it's a marvellous combination of Carnaby Street Pizazz and Savile Row". [5]

In 1967, Blades moved to Burlington Gardens, where the shop windows looked down on Savile Row itself. [2] Customers included Mick Jagger, the then Marquess of Hartington and the Earl of St Germans. [1] [6]

Designs by Lycett Green are included in the collections of the Victoria and Albert Museum, [7] the Metropolitan Museum of Art, [8] and the Museum of London. [9] One of his evening suits in black velvet was selected by Patrick Lichfield to represent 1971 in the Dress of the Year collection at the Fashion Museum, Bath, alongside a woman's outfit by Graziella Fontana. [10] Today, the Burlington Gardens premises are occupied by the tailors Ede & Ravenscroft. [3]

Personal life

Lycett Green was married to the writer Candida Lycett Green, daughter of the poet John Betjeman, [11] until her death on 19 August 2014. [12] They married on 25 May 1963 and had five children. [11] From 1973 to 1987 they owned the country house called Blackland House or Blackland Park, at Blackland near Calne in Wiltshire. [13]

According to Nik Cohn in 1971, Lycett Green was "very tall and very skinny ... charming, quick with a quote and well equipped with enemies. All in all, he was a columnist's dream." [14]

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">John Betjeman</span> English writer, poet, and broadcaster

Sir John Betjeman was an English poet, writer, and broadcaster. He was Poet Laureate from 1972 until his death. He was a founding member of The Victorian Society and a passionate defender of Victorian architecture, helping to save St Pancras railway station from demolition. He began his career as a journalist and ended it as one of the most popular British Poets Laureate and a much-loved figure on British television.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Savile Row</span> Street in Mayfair, London, England

Savile Row is a street in Mayfair, central London. Known principally for its traditional bespoke tailoring for men, the street has had a varied history that has included accommodating the headquarters of the Royal Geographical Society at 1 Savile Row, where significant British explorations to Africa and the South Pole were planned; and more recently, the Apple office of the Beatles at 3 Savile Row, where the band's impromptu final live performance was held on the roof of the building.

Gieves & Hawkes is a bespoke men's tailor and menswear retailer located at 1 Savile Row in London, England. The business was founded in 1771. It was acquired in 2012 by the Hong Kong conglomerate Trinity Ltd., which was in turn purchased by Shandong Ruyi in 2017. After Trinity was subject to a winding-up petition for debt in September 2021, Gieves & Hawkes was acquired in November 2022 by Frasers Group, owner of Sports Direct.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Candida Lycett Green</span> British author (1942–2014)

Candida Rose Lycett Green was a British author who wrote sixteen books including English Cottages, Goodbye London, The Perfect English House, Over the Hills and Far Away and The Dangerous Edge of Things. Her television documentaries included The Englishwoman and the Horse, and The Front Garden. Unwrecked England, based on a regular column of the same name she wrote for The Oldie from 1992, was published in 2009.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Edward Sexton</span> British tailor and fashion designer

Edward Sexton is a British Savile Row tailor, fashion designer and manufacturing consultant. Sexton has been called a key player in the history of Savile Row.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Granny Takes a Trip</span> Psychedelic boutique in 1960s London

Granny Takes a Trip was a boutique opened in February 1966 at 488 Kings Road, Chelsea, London, by Nigel Waymouth, his girlfriend Sheila Cohen and John Pearse. The shop, which was acquired by Freddie Hornik in 1969, remained open until the mid-1970s and has been called the "first psychedelic boutique in Groovy London of the 1960s".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">H. Huntsman & Sons</span>

H. Huntsman & Sons is a high-end fashion house and tailor located at No. 11 Savile Row, London. It is known for its English bespoke menswear tailoring, cashmere ready-to-wear collections, and leather accessories.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">7 Burlington Gardens</span>

7 Burlington Gardens is a Grade II* building in Mayfair, London. Formerly known as Queensberry House, it was later called Uxbridge House. The building was home to the London flagship store of the American fashion retailer Abercrombie & Fitch.

Hardy Amies London (Limited) was a UK-based fashion house specializing in modern luxury menswear.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Timothy Everest</span> Welsh fashion designer (born 1961)

Timothy Charles Peto Everest is a Welsh tailor and fashion designer. He moved to London in his early twenties to work with the Savile Row tailor Tommy Nutter. He then became one of the leaders of the New Bespoke Movement, which brought designer attitudes to the traditional skills of Savile Row tailoring.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hardy Amies</span> English fashion designer

Sir Edwin Hardy Amies KCVO was an English fashion designer, founder of the Hardy Amies label and a Royal Warrant holder as designer to Queen Elizabeth II.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Richard James (tailor)</span>

Richard James is a bespoke Savile Row tailors and contemporary menswear company. It was founded in 1992 by designer Richard James, a graduate of Brighton College of Art and a former buyer for the London boutique Browns, and his business partner Sean Dixon. Richard James has won both the British Fashion Council's Menswear Designer of the Year and Bespoke Designer of the Year awards.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Savile Row tailoring</span> Noted bespoke tailoring in Mayfair, London

Savile Row tailoring is men and women's bespoke tailoring that takes place on Savile Row and neighbouring streets in Mayfair, Central London. In 1846, Henry Poole, credited as being the "Founder of Savile Row", opened an entrance to his tailoring premises at No. 32 Savile Row. The term "bespoke" is understood to have originated in Savile Row when cloth for a suit was said to "be spoken for" by individual customers. The short street has been termed the "golden mile of tailoring", where customers have included Charles III, Winston Churchill, Lord Nelson, Napoleon III, Muhammad Ali Jinnah, Laurence Olivier and Duke Ellington.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Blackland, Wiltshire</span> Hamlet in Calne Without, Wiltshire

Blackland is a hamlet and former civil parish in Calne Without parish, just south-east of the town of Calne in Wiltshire, England. There is a 13th-century church and an 18th-century country house, Blackland House.

<i>Men in Vogue</i>

Men in Vogue was a British magazine of male fashion from the same publishers as Vogue. It was first published in 1965, and ceased publication in 1970. The magazine was closely associated with the "peacock revolution" in English men's fashion in the 1960s for which Christopher Gibbs, an editor of the shopping guide in Men in Vogue, was a style leader with his "louche dandyism". Other editors of the magazine were Robert Harling and Beatrix Miller.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Burlington Gardens</span>

Burlington Gardens is a street in central London, on land that was once part of the Burlington Estate.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tom Gilbey (designer)</span> British fashion designer

Tom Gilbey was a British fashion designer associated with Savile Row tailoring of the 1960s. His designs have featured in the Fashion Museum, Bath, and are in the collections of the Victoria & Albert Museum and the Museum of London.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Dorothy Boyle, Countess of Burlington</span> British artist (1699–1758)

Dorothy Boyle, Countess of Burlington and Countess of Cork was a British noble and court official, as well as a caricaturist and portrait painter. Several of her studies and paintings were made of her daughters. Chatsworth House, which descended through her daughter Charlotte, holds a collection of 24 of her works of art.

Penelope Valentine Hester Chetwode, Lady Betjeman was an English travel writer. She was the only daughter of Field Marshal Lord Chetwode, and the wife of poet laureate Sir John Betjeman. She was born at Aldershot and grew up in northern India, returning to the region in later life.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Statue of John Betjeman</span>

The statue of John Betjeman at St Pancras railway station, London is a depiction in bronze by the sculptor Martin Jennings. The statue was designed and cast in 2007 and was unveiled on 12 November 2007 by Betjeman's daughter, Candida Lycett Green and the then Poet Laureate Andrew Motion to commemorate Betjeman and mark the opening of St Pancras International as the London terminus of the Eurostar high-speed rail link between Great Britain and mainland Europe. The location memorialises the connection between St Pancras station and Betjeman, an early and lifelong advocate of Victorian architecture.

References

  1. 1 2 Black, Cilla. (2004). What's it all about?. London: Ebury. p. 107. ISBN   9781407025162.
  2. 1 2 Musgrave, Eric. (2009). Sharp suits. London: Pavilion. p. 21. ISBN   9781862058521.
  3. 1 2 "Where the London Cut was Born" (PDF). Scabel. Retrieved 7 June 2014.
  4. Crosby, John. (1965) "The sixties: Swinging London" in Lewis, John E. (Ed.) (2012). London. London: Constable & Robinson. p. 1965. ISBN   9781780337500.
  5. Sheppard, Eugenia (1 November 1965). "Beaton Likes Romantic Look". The Montreal Gazette. Retrieved 12 June 2014.
  6. West, Naomi. (7 July 2007). "The world of Peregrine St Germans". The Telegraph . Retrieved 1 June 2014.
  7. "Designs by Rupert Lycett Green and Blades in the V&A". V&A Collections Online. Retrieved 2 June 2014.
  8. "Collections Online: Rupert Lycett Green menswear". Metropolitan Museum of Art. Retrieved 1 June 2014.
  9. "Overcoat by Blades in the Museum of London". Museum of London. Retrieved 1 June 2014.
  10. "Dress of the Year 1970 – 1979". The Fashion Museum, Bath. Archived from the original on 5 November 2013. Retrieved 2 June 2014.
  11. 1 2 A. N. Wilson, Betjeman (2007, ISBN   0099498375), p. 351
  12. Rosemary Hill. "Candida Lycett Green obituary". The Guardian. Retrieved 20 August 2014.
  13. Crowley, D. A., ed. (2002). "Blackland". A History of the County of Wiltshire, Volume 17. Victoria County History. University of London. pp. 17–27. Retrieved 14 March 2022 via British History Online.
  14. "Blades and Savile Row's reaction to 1960's Peacock Revolution". A Dandy in Aspic. Retrieved 12 June 2014.