Sangi was a kind of silk produced in Hindustan. It was a mixed woven cloth, a common cloth in the nineteenth century. The fabric was constructed with a cotton warp and a silk weft, or vice versa.
Sangi is derived from the word sang, which means (together) two warp yarns woven as one. [1]
Sangi was classified as a silk fabric; it was similar to Mashru but of a lesser quality. All three, Sangi, Mashru, and Gulbadan, have a wavy pattern running along their width. In Sanghi, the peculiar khanjari (Chevron, often relating to V-shaped) pattern is obtained by the arrangements of the dyed yarns in the warp, unlike in Mashru, where the effect is a result of dyeing the warp portions. The striped (wavy yarn) appears as a stitch in Sangi. In contrast, Gulbadan had an expensive, close, and fine texture. Sangi's distinguishing trait was a green or yellow warp (and, as a result, green and yellow khanjari) with a red weft. Although Muslims of the upper classes preferred cotton mixed, it was widely used by all classes. [2] [3] [4] [5] [1]
"Katan," a term for a warp yarn consisting of two loosely twisted yarns, was used to create the Sanghi, Mashru, and Gulbadan silk fabrics. [1] : 39
Several varieties of Sanghi, with varying yarn compositions and dimensions, were created in Jalaun, Allahabad, and Azamgarh. Warp coarse and fine weft Sangi was traditionally worn by Hindu women for Lehnga and by Muslim women for Paijama. [1]
A satin weave is a type of fabric weave that produces a characteristically glossy, smooth or lustrous material, typically with a glossy top surface and a dull back; it is not durable, as it tends to snag. It is one of three fundamental types of textile weaves alongside plain weave and twill weave.
Ikat is a dyeing technique from Southeast Asia used to pattern textiles that employs resist dyeing on the yarns prior to dyeing and weaving the fabric. In Southeast Asia, where it is the most widespread, ikat weaving traditions can be divided into two general groups of related traditions. The first is found among Daic-speaking peoples. The second, larger group is found among the Austronesian peoples and spread via the Austronesian expansion to as far as Madagascar. It is most prominently associated with the textile traditions of Indonesia in modern times, from where the term ikat originates. Similar unrelated dyeing and weaving techniques that developed independently are also present in other regions of the world, including India, Central Asia, Japan, Africa, and the Americas.
Double cloth or double weave is a kind of woven textile in which two or more sets of warps and one or more sets of weft or filling yarns are interconnected to form a two-layered cloth. The movement of threads between the layers allows complex patterns and surface textures to be created.
Crêpe, also spelled crepe or crape, is a silk, wool, or synthetic fiber fabric with a distinctively crisp and crimped appearance. The term "crape" typically refers to a form of the fabric associated specifically with mourning. Crêpe was also historically called "crespe" or "crisp".
Paithani is a variety of sari, named after the Paithan town in Aurangabad district from state of Maharashtra in India where the sari was first made by hand. Present day Yeola town in Nashik, Maharashtra is the largest manufacturer of Paithani.
Kasuri (絣) is the Japanese term for fabric that has been woven with fibers dyed specifically to create patterns and images in the fabric, typically referring to fabrics produced within Japan using this technique. It is a form of ikat dyeing, traditionally resulting in patterns characterized by their blurred or brushed appearance.
Plain weave is the most basic of three fundamental types of textile weaves. It is strong and hard-wearing, and is used for fashion and furnishing fabrics. Fabrics with a plain weave are generally strong, durable, and have a smooth surface. They are often used for a variety of applications, including clothing, home textiles, and industrial fabrics.
Silk In India, about 97% of the raw mulberry silk is produced in the Indian states of Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, Tamil Nadu and West Bengal. Mysore and North Bangalore, the upcoming site of a US$20 million "Silk City", contribute to a majority of silk production. Another emerging silk producer is Tamil Nadu in the place in where mulberry cultivation is concentrated in Salem, Erode and Dharmapuri districts. Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh and Gobichettipalayam, Tamil Nadu were the first locations to have automated silk reeling units.
The manufacture of textiles is one of the oldest of human technologies. To make textiles, the first requirement is a source of fiber from which a yarn can be made, primarily by spinning. The yarn is processed by knitting or weaving, which turns it into cloth. The machine used for weaving is the loom. For decoration, the process of colouring yarn or the finished material is dyeing. For more information of the various steps, see textile manufacturing.
Shot silk is a fabric which is made up of silk woven from warp and weft yarns of two or more colours producing an iridescent appearance. A "shot" is a single throw of the bobbin that carries the weft thread through the warp, and shot silk colours can be described as "[warp colour] shot with [weft colour]." The weaving technique can also be applied to other fibres such as cotton, linen, and synthetics.
Odisha Ikat, is a kind of ikat known as Bandhakala and Bandha, a resist dyeing technique, originating from Indian state of Odisha. Traditionally known as "Bandhakala"', "Bandha", '"Bandha of Odisha", it is a geographically tagged product of Odisha since 2007. It is made through a process of tie-dyeing the warp and weft threads to create the design on the loom prior to weaving. It is unlike any other ikat woven in the rest of the country because of its design process, which has been called "poetry on the loom". This design is in vogue only at the western and eastern regions of Odisha; similar designs are produced by community groups called the Bhulia, Kostha Asani, and Patara. The fabric gives a striking curvilinear appearance. Saris made out of this fabric feature bands of brocade in the borders and also at the ends, called anchal or pallu. Its forms are purposefully feathered, giving the edges a "hazy and fragile" appearance. There are different kinds of bandha saris made in Odisha, notably Khandua, Sambalpuri, Pasapali, Kataki and Manibandhi.
Piece goods were the textile materials sold in cut pieces as per the buyer's specification. The piece goods were either cut from a fabric roll or produced with a certain length, also called yard goods. Various textiles such as cotton, wool, silk, etc., were traded in terms of piece goods. The prices were determined as per the fabric quality.
Qutni(cuttanee, couthnys, Koetnies, Kutni) is an old silk and cotton mix cloth with a striped pattern. Qutni is a satin weave structure with silk in warp and cotton in the weft. It was made In Gujarat, India. Qutni was also produced at Damascus, Aleppo, Hama.
Alacha is a lightweight striped cloth made primarily of silk, sometimes cotton, or a mixture of both. The stripe pattern was evident on both sides of the fabric. A typical length of alacha is five yards. It was produced in various parts of India, for example Baikunthpur, Bihar. The cloth was popular in use for female garments such as dupattas (odhni), veils, and petticoats.
Gulbadan was a kind of striped silk produced in Hindustan. The gulbadan was a light textured cloth of silk and cotton. Gulbadan has vertical variegated stripes with a different color than the base color of the cloth. In appearance, it was similar to a glazed calico, unlike Mashru, which has the satin (lustrous) surface.The contemporary silk piece goods were Daryai and Dhupehan. Gulbadan was available in many color combinations and sizes. Gulbadan of Amritsar and Lahore were famous. "Sufi" was another name for Gulbadan striped fabric.
Dosuti was one of the coarser cotton piece goods produced in the Indian subcontinent. Originally, it was a handspun and handloom cloth made in the villages. Punjab had various cotton qualities during the 19th century. All were distinguished by their weight, thickness, and the yarn. Dosuti was a cloth made by running two yarns in warp and weft as its name refers to Do(double) Suti. India's Eastern side was famous for more delicate cotton materials such as Dacca muslins, and Punjab and Gujarat were famous for coarser cotton textile piece goods. Dosuti was a thick cotton material used for rough usages, such as duster. The other contemporary cotton products were Eksuti, Tinsuti, and Chausuti, etc.
Mashru is a woven cloth that is a blend of silk and cotton. It was historically a hand-woven satin silk fabric variety found in the Indian subcontinent, and its proper use is described in the 16th-century Ain-i-Akbari.
A blend is a mixture of two or more fibers. In yarn spinning, different compositions, lengths, diameters, or colors may be combined to create a blend. Blended textiles are fabrics or yarns produced with a combination of two or more types of different fibers, or yarns to obtain desired traits and aesthetics. Blending is possible at various stages of textile manufacturing. The term, blend, refers to spun fibers or a fabric composed of such fibers. There are several synonymous terms: a combination yarn is made up of two strands of different fibers twisted together to form a ply; a mixture or mixed cloth refers to blended cloths in which different types of yarns are used in warp and weft sides.
Daryayi was an old silk fabric. It could have gotten its name from the fabric's wavy or striped pattern, like a Darya, which means river. Daryayi silk was made in Meerut and Lucknow until the late eighteenth century by weavers known as daryayi baff. These weavers, most likely migrated to India from Central Asia, a well-known silk-weaving region between the Syr and Amu Darya rivers. This twelve-inch-wide fabric comes in a range of colors like red, yellow, blue, green, and white. Daryayi was used as a patka in Hindu wedding ceremonies, or as a border for women's clothing.
Ghalta was an old Hindustani fabric made of silk and cotton. Additionally, it was given the name " Azamgarh Satinette." According to John Shakespear, Ghalta was also referred to "a thick sort of cloth."