Sissel Tolaas

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Sissel Tolaas
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Sissel Tolaas in her Berlin laboratory
Born
Sissel Tolaas

21 june 1961 [1]
Nationality Norwegian
Known forsmells

Sissel Tolaas is a Norwegian artist and researcher known for her work with smell.

Contents

Sissel Tolaas was born in 1961 in Stavanger, Norway and is now based in Berlin. Tolaas has a background in chemistry, mathematics, linguistics, languages and art; she studied at the universities of Oslo, Warsaw, Moscow, St. Petersburg and Oxford.

Research on smell

Tolaas researches diverse aspects relating to scents. She first started researching its importance in 1990 through art and design among other fields. At that time, she developed a "smell archive" in over 7,000 airtight jars. [2] In January 2004 Tolaas established the Smell Research Lab Berlin for smell and communication / language, supported by International Flavours and Fragrances [3] (IFF). Her research has won recognition through numerous national and international scholarships, honours, and prizes including the 2014 CEW, New York award for chemistry & innovation; [4] 2009 Rouse Foundation Award from Harvard University Graduate School of Design; an honorary mention at the 2010 ArsElectronica in Linz, Austria; [5] and the 2010-2011-2012-2014 Synthetic Biology / Synthetic Aesthetics Award from Stanford and Edinburgh Universities including a residency at Harvard Medical School. [6] Tolaas founded the Institute of Functional Smells in 2010, which focuses on health, education, and well-being. In 2016 Tolaas became a founding member of Future of Education, a collaboration with the Nanyang Technical University Singapore and The Future Education Platform, Berlin.

Projects

Tolaas has completed 52 City SmellScape research projects since 1998, of, for and with major cities including Paris, Kansas City, [7] Berlin, [8] and Amman. [9]

Since 2018 Tolaas is working on an archive of the world's oceans and a project on the morbidity and decay of Detroit. Since 2014 Tolaas has been active in several start-ups in the field of the senses. In 2016 Tolaas launched the world's first Smell Memory Kit; several other devices and sense tools are under development.

The Re_Search Lab continues to support interdisciplinary projects and research involving smell, odor, and fragrance. It establishes communication among experts in different fields dealing with olfaction. [3]

Her project Sweat Fear | Fear Sweat from 2005 examines the body odors of twenty men, all of whom have a severe phobia of other bodies. Their smells were collected and chemically reproduced. [10] The simulated sweat molecules were painted onto the gallery walls using a micro-encapsulation process, where they became activated by touch. [3]

In her artist's statement about the installation the Fear of smell — the smell of Fear at the 2005 Tirana Biennale, Tolaas explains:

"In the modern West, we tend to think of smell in purely aesthetic terms, pleasant or unpleasant. In many other cultures however, smells have provided and still provide a basic means of defining the and interacting with the world. This is particularly the case in so far as odours are closely associated with personal and group identity. The study of the history, anthropology, and sociology of smells is, in a very real sense, an investigation into the ‘essence’ of human culture itself." [11]

Tolaas works with numerous companies and institutions, and her projects have been presented, among others, in TED Global, [12] Cooper-Hewitt Museum, [13] Minsheng Art Museum in Shanghai, [14] Time Museum Guangzhou, [15] Edinburgh International Fashion Festival 2012, [16] and Louisiana Museum in Denmark. [17] She has had engagements with many universities and institutions around the world, including MIT and Harvard University. [18]

Beginning in 2019, Tolaas has worked with fashion brand Balenciaga on custom scents and set designs for runway presentations. [19] As part of Balenciaga's first couture presentation, the artist created a candle using scent molecules extracted from Balenciaga's headquarters and garments in their archive. [20] The Metropolitan Museum Costume Institute worked with Tolaas to develop custom scents for the 2024 show "Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion." [21]

Related Research Articles

Perfume is a mixture of fragrant essential oils or aroma compounds (fragrances), fixatives and solvents, usually in liquid form, used to give the human body, animals, food, objects, and living-spaces an agreeable scent. Perfumes can be defined as substances that emit and diffuse a pleasant and fragrant odor. They consist of manmade mixtures of aromatic chemicals and essential oils. The 1939 Nobel Laureate for Chemistry, Leopold Ružička stated in 1945 that "right from the earliest days of scientific chemistry up to the present time, perfumes have substantially contributed to the development of organic chemistry as regards methods, systematic classification, and theory."

Body odor or body odour (BO) is present in all animals and its intensity can be influenced by many factors. Body odor has a strong genetic basis, but can also be strongly influenced by various factors, such as sex, diet, health, and medication. The body odor of human males plays an important role in human sexual attraction, as a powerful indicator of MHC/HLA heterozygosity. Significant evidence suggests that women are attracted to men whose body odor is different from theirs, indicating that they have immune genes that are different from their own, which may produce healthier offspring.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Aroma compound</span> Chemical compound that has a smell or odor

An aroma compound, also known as an odorant, aroma, fragrance or flavoring, is a chemical compound that has a smell or odor. For an individual chemical or class of chemical compounds to impart a smell or fragrance, it must be sufficiently volatile for transmission via the air to the olfactory system in the upper part of the nose. As examples, various fragrant fruits have diverse aroma compounds, particularly strawberries which are commercially cultivated to have appealing aromas, and contain several hundred aroma compounds.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Air freshener</span> Product used to mask odors

Air fresheners are products designed to reduce unwanted odors in indoor spaces, or to introduce pleasant fragrances, or both. They typically emit fragrance to mask odors, but may use other methods of action such as absorbing, bonding to, or chemically altering compounds in the air that produce smells, killing organisms that produce smells, or disrupting the sense of smell to reduce perception of unpleasant smells.

Balenciaga SA is a luxury fashion house founded in 1919 by the Spanish couturier Cristóbal Balenciaga in San Sebastián, Spain. Balenciaga produces ready-to-wear footwear, handbags, and accessories, and licenses its name and branding to Coty for fragrances. It is currently owned by the French corporation Kering.

Aromachology is the study of the influence of odors on human behavior and to examine the relationship between feelings and emotions. Those who practice aromachology are aromachologists. Aromachologists analyze emotions such as relaxation, exhilaration, sensuality, happiness and well-being brought about by odors stimulating the olfactory pathways in the brain and, in particular, the limbic system. Different wearers are thought to have unique physiological and psychological responses to scents, especially those not manufactured synthetically but based on real scents. The word "aromachology" is derived from "aroma" and "physio-psychology", the latter being the study of aroma. This term was coined in 1989 by what is now the Sense of Smell Institute (SSI), a division of The Fragrance Foundation. The SSI defines aromachology as "a concept based on systematic, scientific data collected under controlled conditions". The term is defined as the scientifically observable influence of smell on emotions and moods. Consumers use aromachology to alleviate time pressures, for relaxation or stimulation and as a component of other activities that generate a feeling of well-being.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Odor</span> Volatile chemical compounds perceived by the sense of smell

An odor or odour is caused by one or more volatilized chemical compounds that are generally found in low concentrations that humans and many animals can perceive via their sense of smell. An odor is also called a "smell" or a "scent", which can refer to either an unpleasant or a pleasant odor.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sense of smell</span> Sense that detects smells

The sense of smell, or olfaction, is the special sense through which smells are perceived. The sense of smell has many functions, including detecting desirable foods, hazards, and pheromones, and plays a role in taste.

Christophe Laudamiel is a French perfumer, chemist, writer and model. He is co-founder and Master Perfumer of DreamAir creative studios in New York City, where he currently resides. In 2019 he was named Chief Perfumer to BélAir Lab in Tokyo: a perfume composition and technology studio newly managed by Rohto Pharmaceuticals. He is a founder and president of the non-profit Academy of Perfumery and Aromatics.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Digital scent technology</span> The study of smelling things through a computer

Digital scent technology is the engineering discipline dealing with olfactory representation. It is a technology to sense, transmit and receive scent-enabled digital media. The sensing part of this technology works by using olfactometers and electronic noses.

Scentography is the technique of creating and storing odor by artificially recreating a smell using chemical and electronic means.

Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud is a French perfumer formerly with the Swiss fragrance and flavor company Firmenich, who currently works for Louis Vuitton of the LVMH Luxury Group.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">The Art and Olfaction Awards</span>

The Art and Olfaction Awards are a non-profit award mechanism designed to celebrate excellence in international artisan, experimental and independent perfumery and olfactory art through a yearly blind-judged competition.

The Institute for Art and Olfaction is a non-profit organization devoted to advancing public, artistic and experimental engagement with scent. It was founded in 2012.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Olfactory art</span>

Olfactory art is an art form that uses scents as a medium. Olfactory art includes perfume as well as other applications of scent.

Sillage in perfume refers to the trail created by a perfume when it is worn on the skin. It comes from the word in French for "wake" and can best be described as how a fragrance diffuses behind the wearer as they move. A fragrance does not need to be a heavy one to have a large sillage.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Christina Agapakis</span> American biologist

Christina Maria Agapakis is a synthetic biologist, science writer. She is the Creative Director of the biotechnology company Ginkgo Bioworks.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Fracas (perfume)</span> 1948 tuberose perfume by Germaine Cellier for Robert Piguet

Fracas is a 1948 perfume created by French perfumer Germaine Cellier for French fashion designer Robert Piguet. It is based on the scent of tuberose, a pungent small white flower. A landmark fragrance, it has spawned many imitators and as of 2021 has been in production for more than 70 years later.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Alexandra Daisy Ginsberg</span> British artist (born 1982)

Alexandra Daisy Ginsberg is a British and South African artist who lives and works in London, UK. She is known for artworks that explore the relationship between humans, technology and nature. Many of her works are achieved using artificial intelligence and synthetic biology.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Olfactic communication</span> Social interaction through smell

Olfactic communication is a channel of nonverbal communication referring to the various ways people and animals communicate and engage in social interaction through their sense of smell. Our human olfactory sense is one of the most phylogenetically primitive and emotionally intimate of the five senses; the sensation of smell is thought to be the most matured and developed human sense.

References

  1. "Sagen Sie jetzt nichts, Sissel Tolaas". Süddeutsche Zeitung Magazin. No. 5. 2010-02-04. Retrieved 2018-06-03.
  2. Rushton, Susie (August 27, 2006). "The Sweat Hog". The New York Times.
  3. 1 2 3 Tolaas, Sissel (20 November 2011). "Sissel Tolaas; An alphabet for the nose". Journal for Artistic Research. Retrieved 2015-03-07.
  4. "CEW honors cosmetics entrepreneurs with Achiever Awards". cosmeticsdesign.com. 21 October 2014.
  5. "2010 Prix Winners: Hybrid Art – Prix Ars Electronica". Archived from the original on 2018-04-27. Retrieved 2017-06-25.
  6. "Agapakis + Tolaas - Synthetic Aesthetics". Archived from the original on 2017-04-27. Retrieved 2017-06-25.
  7. "Grand Arts".
  8. Siepmann, Julia (24 January 2004). "Der Duft der Hauptstadt". Die Welt.
  9. "Design for the Senses: Sissel Tolaas".
  10. "Mono.kultur | Sissel Tolaas".
  11. Jones, Caroline (2006). Sensorium; Embodied experience, technology, and contemporary art. Cambridge, Massachusetts: MIT Press. ISBN   9780262101172.
  12. "How smell shapes our perception of the world around us". 14 October 2015.
  13. "Smell Lab, Smell Lab". Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum.
  14. "Shanghai 21st Century Minsheng Art Museum | space | ARTLINKART | Chinese contemporary art database".
  15. "Chain_ of Smell Molecules". en.timesmuseum.org. Archived from the original on 2017-06-27.
  16. "Sissel Tolaas". www.edinburghinternationalfashionfestival.com. Archived from the original on 2012-08-14.
  17. "Tidligere udstillinger".
  18. "Lecture: SMELL = information | a tool for communication – navigation – education – decision making – Chronus Art Center".
  19. Binlot, Ann (2019-10-01). "Meet the fragrance scientist behind Balenciaga's blood-and-money perfume". Document Journal. Retrieved 2023-11-08.
  20. Cleary, Mary (6 October 2022). "A behind-the-scenes look at the Balenciaga Couture candle". wallpaper.com. Retrieved 2023-11-08.
  21. Leitch, Luke (2023-11-08). ""Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion" Is The Costume Institute's Spring 2024 Exhibition". Vogue. Retrieved 2023-11-08.