| Men's speed at the 2022 Asian Games | ||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Venue | Keqiao Yangshan Sport Climbing Centre | |||||||||
| Date | 3 October 2023 | |||||||||
| Competitors | 25 from 15 nations | |||||||||
| Medalists | ||||||||||
| ||||||||||
| Sport climbing at the 2022 Asian Games | ||
|---|---|---|
 | ||
| Speed | men | women |
| Speed relay | men | women |
| Combined | men | women |
The men's speed event of sport climbing at the 2022 Asian Games took place on 3 October 2023 at Keqiao Yangshan Sport Climbing Centre, Shaoxing, China. [1]
All times are China Standard Time (UTC+08:00)
| Date | Time | Event |
|---|---|---|
| Tuesday, 3 October 2023 | 12:10 | Qualification |
| 20:13 | 1/8 finals | |
| 20:34 | Quarterfinals | |
| 20:49 | Semifinals | |
| 20:57 | Finals |
| Rank | Athlete | Lane A | Lane B | Best |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |  Veddriq Leonardo (INA) | 4.978 | 6.925 | 4.978 |
| 2 |  Wu Peng (CHN) | 5.183 | 5.151 | 5.151 |
| 3 | Kiromal Katibin (INA) | 7.315 | 5.161 | 5.161 |
| 4 |  Reza Alipour (IRI) | 5.520 | 5.184 | 5.184 |
| 5 |  Lee Seung-beom (KOR) | 5.351 | 5.489 | 5.351 |
| 6 | Long Jinbao (CHN) | 5.353 | 5.794 | 5.353 |
| 7 |  Ryo Omasa (JPN) | 5.475 | 5.355 | 5.355 |
| 8 |  Amir Maimuratov (KAZ) | 5.447 | 6.671 | 5.447 |
| 9 | Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ) | 6.348 | 5.454 | 5.454 |
| 10 |  Aphiwit Limpanichpakdee (THA) | 5.629 | 6.683 | 5.629 |
| 11 | Milad Alipour (IRI) | 5.637 | 6.512 | 5.637 |
| 12 | Lee Yong-su (KOR) | 5.751 | 5.650 | 5.650 |
| 13 |  Wong Cheuk Nam (HKG) | 5.790 | 7.021 | 5.790 |
| 14 |  Lin Chia-hsiang (TPE) | 6.114 | 6.109 | 6.109 |
| 15 | Shoji Chan (HKG) | 6.129 | 6.965 | 6.129 |
| 16 |  Aman Verma (IND) | 7.110 | 6.205 | 6.205 |
| 17 | Sirapob Jirajaturapak (THA) | Fall | 6.667 | 6.667 |
| 18 |  Tan Bing Qian (SGP) | 9.100 | 6.767 | 6.767 |
| 19 |  Mark Rogalev (UZB) | 6.975 | 8.377 | 6.975 |
| 20 | Dhiraj Dinkar Birajdar (IND) | 8.037 | 7.313 | 7.313 |
| 21 |  Zaheer Ahmad (PAK) | 7.717 | 7.801 | 7.717 |
| 22 | Mir Abuzar Faiz (PAK) | 8.398 | 9.553 | 8.398 |
| 23 |  Nasser Abuergeeb (KUW) | 8.474 | Fall | 8.474 |
| 24 |  Sükhbaataryn Itgel (MGL) | 11.403 | 11.469 | 11.403 |
| 25 | Battulgyn Bilgüün (MGL) | Fall | 12.262 | 12.262 |
| 1/8 finals | Quarterfinals | Semifinals | Final | ||||||||||||||||
| 1 | Veddriq Leonardo (INA) | 7.452 | |||||||||||||||||
| 16 | Aman Verma (IND) | 7.620 | 1 | Veddriq Leonardo (INA) | 5.110 | ||||||||||||||
| 8 | Amir Maimuratov (KAZ) | 5.176 | 8 | Amir Maimuratov (KAZ) | Fall | ||||||||||||||
| 9 | Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ) | 5.622 | 1 | Veddriq Leonardo (INA) | 5.619 | ||||||||||||||
| 4 | Reza Alipour (IRI) | 5.280 | 4 | Reza Alipour (IRI) | 5.163 | ||||||||||||||
| 13 | Wong Cheuk Nam (HKG) | 8.021 | 4 | Reza Alipour (IRI) | 5.162 | ||||||||||||||
| 5 | Lee Seung-beom (KOR) | 5.525 | 5 | Lee Seung-beom (KOR) | 5.417 | ||||||||||||||
| 12 | Lee Yong-su (KOR) | 6.105 | 4 | Reza Alipour (IRI) | 5.302 | ||||||||||||||
| 2 | Wu Peng (CHN) | 5.240 | 6 | Long Jinbao (CHN) | Fall | ||||||||||||||
| 15 | Shoji Chan (HKG) | 6.223 | 2 | Wu Peng (CHN) | 5.018 | ||||||||||||||
| 7 | Ryo Omasa (JPN) | 5.325 | 7 | Ryo Omasa (JPN) | 5.161 | ||||||||||||||
| 10 | Aphiwit Limpanichpakdee (THA) | 6.243 | 2 | Wu Peng (CHN) | FS | Small final | |||||||||||||
| 3 | Kiromal Katibin (INA) | 5.167 | 6 | Long Jinbao (CHN) | |||||||||||||||
| 14 | Lin Chia-hsiang (TPE) | 6.176 | 3 | Kiromal Katibin (INA) | 7.407 | 1 | Veddriq Leonardo (INA) | 4.955 | |||||||||||
| 6 | Long Jinbao (CHN) | 5.282 | 6 | Long Jinbao (CHN) | 5.052 | 2 | Wu Peng (CHN) | 5.119 | |||||||||||
| 11 | Milad Alipour (IRI) | 5.524 | |||||||||||||||||
Climbing is the activity of using one's hands, feet, or other parts of the body to ascend a steep topographical object that can range from the world's tallest mountains to small boulders. Climbing is done for locomotion, sporting recreation, for competition, and is also done in trades that rely on ascension, such as rescue and military operations. Climbing is done indoors and outdoors, on natural surfaces, and on artificial surfaces
Sport climbing is a type of free climbing in rock climbing where the lead climber clips into pre-drilled permanent bolts for their protection while ascending a route. Sport climbing differs from the riskier traditional climbing where the lead climber has to insert temporary protection equipment while ascending.
Competition climbing is a form of regulated rock climbing competition held indoors on purpose-built artificial climbing walls. The three competition climbing disciplines are lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing. The result of multiple disciplines can be used in a "combined" format to determine an all-round winner. Competition climbing is sometimes called "sport climbing", which is the name given to pre-bolted lead climbing.
Indonesia first participated in the Olympic Games in 1952 and has sent athletes to compete in every Summer Olympic Games since then, except for two; in 1964 due to controversy around the 1962 Asian Games when they banned Israel and the then-internationally recognized Republic of China which resulted in a ban for their track and field team, and in 1980, when they participated in the U.S.-led boycott of the 1980 Summer Olympics. The National Olympic Committee for Indonesia was created in 1946 and recognized in 1952. The country has never participated in the Winter Olympic Games, which can be explained by the lack of sporting facilities for winter sports on its territory.
Speed climbing is a climbing discipline in which speed is the ultimate goal. Speed climbing is done on rocks, walls and poles and is only recommended for highly skilled and experienced climbers.
USA Climbing is the national governing body of the sport of competition climbing in the United States. As a 501(c)3 non-profit, they promote Sport Climbing which comprises three competition disciplines: bouldering, lead climbing, and speed climbing, in elite, youth and collegiate formats.
Ethan Pringle is an American rock climber with notable ascents in sport climbing, in traditional climbing, and in bouldering. He has also been active in competition climbing, winning the American national competition lead climbing championships in both youth and adult formats, and silver at the World Youth Championships.
Competition climbing made its Olympic debut at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo, Japan. Two events were held, one each for men and women. The format controversially consisted of one combined event with three disciplines: lead climbing, speed climbing and bouldering. The medals were determined based on best performance across all three disciplines. This format was previously tested at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics. The Olympic code for sports climbing is CLB.
Reza Alipour Shenazandifard is an Iranian competition speed climber from Qazvin. He is nicknamed the "Persian Cheetah".
Competitions in the sport of climbing, governed by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC), have been held at two editions of the Summer Olympic Games. First selected as one of the discretionary sports at the 2020 and 2024 games, sport climbing will be inducted as one of the mandatory sports at the 2028 games. Athletes compete in the disciplines of bouldering, lead climbing, and speed climbing. All three were contested as a single event in the 2020 programme, while speed climbing was spun off into its own event in the 2024 programme. Slovenia have won the most gold medals (2), while Austria, Japan, and the United States have won the most medals overall.
Aleksandra (Ola) Mirosław is a Polish soldier and competition speed climber. She is a two-time women's speed world champion as well as the current women's competition speed climbing world record holder. Mirosław won the gold medal at the 2024 Summer Olympics in the speed climbing event, becoming the first ever Olympic champion in this event.
The 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup was the 33rd edition of the international sport climbing competition series, held in seven locations. There are 11 events: four bouldering, five lead, and two speed events. The season began on 16 April in Meiringen, Switzerland with the first bouldering competition in the season, and concluded on 4 September in Kranj, Slovenia. The International Federation of Sport Climbing had initially scheduled 18 events concluding on 31 October, but COVID-19 travel restrictions resulted in the cancellation of events in Xiamen and Wujiang in China, Jakarta in Indonesia and Seoul in South Korea.
Veddriq Leonardo is an Indonesian competition climber who specializes in competition speed climbing. He has held the world record for the discipline for about a year twice, first after setting it en route to winning the men's speed climbing event at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup in Salt Lake City, and again at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Cup in Seoul. He is the current Olympic champion, having won speed climbing in 2024, thus becoming the first Indonesian non-badminton Olympic gold medalist.
Speed climbing competitions at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup are being held at two locations, from 28 May to 3 July 2021. The International Federation of Sport Climbing had originally scheduled six speed climbing events concluding on 31 October, but COVID-19 travel restrictions resulted in the cancellation of events in Xiamen and Wujiang in China, Jakarta in Indonesia and Seoul in South Korea.
Competition climbing at the 2024 Summer Olympics took place from 5 to 10 August at Le Bourget Sport Climbing Venue in Saint-Denis, returning to the program for the second time since the sport's official debut three years earlier in Tokyo 2020. The total number of medal events was doubled from two in the previous edition because the boulder-and-lead tandem had been separated from the speed format. Furthermore, the number of climbers increased from 40 to 68.
Kiromal Katibin is an Indonesian competition climber who specializes in competition speed climbing. He was the world record holder in speed climbing, with a time of 5.009 seconds recorded at 2022 IFSC Climbing World Cup in Chamonix, France in July 2022, until it was broken by his compatriot Veddriq Leonardo in April 2023. He finished second overall in the men's speed category during the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup series. Katibin also has four career IFSC Climbing World Cup medals, all in speed.
In qualifying for the 2024 Summer Olympics, a total of 68 climbers, with an equal distribution between men and women, will compete across two separate competition climbing disciplines at these Games for the first time, namely: a unique competition bouldering-and-competition lead climbing combined event, and a separate competition speed climbing event.
The men's speed relay event of the sport climbing at the 2022 Asian Games took place on 4 October at Keqiao Yangshan Sport Climbing Centre, Shaoxing, China.
The women's speed relay event at the 2022 Asian Games took place on 4 October at Keqiao Yangshan Sport Climbing Centre, Shaoxing, China.
Wu Peng is a Chinese competition speed climber. He represented China at the 2024 Summer Olympics and won a silver medal in the men's speed event.
