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A textile is a flexible material made by creating an interlocking network of yarns or threads, which are produced by spinning raw fibres into long and twisted lengths. Textiles are then formed by weaving, knitting, crocheting, knotting, tatting, felting, bonding, or braiding these yarns together.
Muslin is a cotton fabric of plain weave. It is made in a wide range of weights from delicate sheers to coarse sheeting. It gets its name from the city of Mosul, Iraq, where it was first manufactured. In the 17th and 18th centuries Dacca in Bengal was regarded as producing the finest muslins.
Percale is a closely woven plain-weave fabric often used for bed covers. Percale has a thread count of about 200 or higher and is noticeably tighter than the standard type of weave used for bedsheets. It has medium weight, is firm and smooth with no gloss, and warps and washes very well. It is made from both carded and combed yarns, and may be woven of various fibers, such as cotton, polyester, or various blends.
Dimity was a collective term for figured cloths of harness loom decorated with designs and patterns. It was a strong cotton cloth with various stripes and illustrations. It was only bleached or washed after loom less often dyed after looming, unlike fustian, usually dyed.
Broadcloth is a dense, plain woven cloth, historically made of wool. The defining characteristic of broadcloth is not its finished width but the fact that it was woven much wider and then heavily milled in order to shrink it to the required width. The effect of the milling process is to draw the yarns much closer together than could be achieved in the loom and allow the individual fibres of the wool to bind together in a felting process, which results in a dense, blind face cloth with a stiff drape which is highly weather-resistant, hard wearing and capable of taking a cut edge without the need for being hemmed.
Shot silk is a fabric which is made up of silk woven from warp and weft yarns of two or more colours producing an iridescent appearance. A "shot" is a single throw of the bobbin that carries the weft thread through the warp, and shot silk colours can be described as "[warp colour] shot with [weft colour]." The weaving technique can also be applied to other fibres such as cotton, linen, and synthetics.
A bolt is a piece of cloth woven on a loom or created by a knitting machine, as it is processed, stored and/or marketed. Consequently, its dimensions are highly variable — flexible and dependent upon the manufacturing, machinery, quantity, size, thickness and quality of the product. It is a unit used in manufacturing, transport and inventory. It is also used as a descriptor for wallpaper, which uses different fabrication machinery. Being encompassing, it is by its nature a generic and ambiguous term of convenience and context, used to describe fabric and wallpaper.
Bafta is a Persian word meaning woven and is a plain-woven textile. Bafta is a kind of calico, initially made in India. It was produced in Bharuch, previously known as Broach, a city in Gujarat, India. Bafta is a coarse, cheap woven long length but of narrow width material, made chiefly of cotton. Bafta was a generic term for a plain calico of Gujarat especially of Broach and Navsari.
Sussi or susi was a term for multicolored striped or checked cloth produced in the Indian subcontinent. Sussi was thin handloom fabric made of cotton, silk, or a blend of the two, with colored warp stripes. Punjab region was known for its production and exports during the Mughal period. Sussi was most often made with red and blue, blue and white, or green and white stripes, but other patterns were also produced. The fabric was exported to England, where sousaes were in great demand in the 18th century.
Piece goods were the textile materials sold in cut pieces as per the buyer's specification. The piece goods were either cut from a fabric roll or produced with a certain length, also called yard goods. Various textiles such as cotton, wool, silk, etc., were traded in terms of piece goods. The prices were determined as per the fabric quality.
Alacha is a lightweight striped cloth made primarily of silk, sometimes cotton, or a mixture of both. The stripe pattern was evident on both sides of the fabric. A typical length of Alacha is five yards. It was produced in various parts of India, for example Baikunthpur, Bihar. The cloth was popular in use for female garments such as dupattas (odhni), veils, and petticoats.
Salampore (salempore) was a kind of cotton cloth produced in India. It had been in use since the 17th century and was exported to Europe and Africa.
Seerhand muslin (Seerhand) was a plain weave thin cotton fabric produced in the Indian subcontinent.
Balzarine (Balzorine) was a cotton and worsted fabric of the 19th century. It was a lightweight union cloth made of cotton and wool.
Segovienne was a Spanish flannel cloth used for upholstery in the 14th to 17th centuries. It was produced in Segovia.
Sinchaw, or Synchaw, was a silk type described in an early 19th century list of prices as “a firm thick even Kind of Goods”. Sinchaw was among the varieties of Chinese silk imported into the United States during the eighteenth century. The length of a piece was around 30 yards with a variance of one yard.
Cherryderry was a blended fabric with silk warp and cotton weft, typically with a stripe or check pattern.
Harateen (Harrateen) was woolen stuff of the 18th and early 19th-century produced in England. It was a furnishing material with a pattern used in Upholstery.
Bay was a napped coarse woolen cloth, introduced to England by Dutch immigrants in the 16th century. It was produced in Essex at Colchester and Bocking, and also in various towns in the West of England. Production continued until the 19th century.
Alamode (Allamod) was a thin, soft, fine, and lustrous silk material. It was one of England's local silk varieties. However, it was recognized as ''Alamode'' in the early 17th century before it was famous for its use in scarves.
References
- 1 2 Foster, William (1906). The English Factories in India. Clarendon Press. p. 62.
- 1 2 Tortora, Phyllis G.; Johnson, Ingrid (2013-09-17). The Fairchild Books Dictionary of Textiles. A&C Black. p. 610. ISBN 978-1-60901-535-0.
- ↑ Montgomery, Florence M. (1984). Textiles in America 1650-1870 : a dictionary based on original documents, prints and paintings, commercial records, American merchants' papers, shopkeepers' advertisements, and pattern books with original swatches of cloth. Internet Archive. New York ; London : Norton. p. 361. ISBN 978-0-393-01703-8.
- ↑ Wellington, Donald C. (2006). French East India Companies: A Historical Account and Record of Trade. Hamilton Books. p. 227. ISBN 978-0-7618-3475-5.
- ↑ Hardstaff, R. E. (2004). Human Cargo: And the Southwell Connection : a Record of a Slave Trading Voyage of the Eighteenth Century and the Links with People Living in the Southwell Area at that Time. Southwell and District Local History Society. p. 36. ISBN 978-0-9520503-2-2.
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