The Cooking Gene

Last updated
The Cooking Gene: A Journey through African American Culinary History in the Old South
The Cooking Gene.jpg
AuthorMichael W. Twitty
CountryUnited States
LanguageEnglish
GenreMemoir
Published2017 (HarperCollins Publishers)
ISBN 9780062379290

The Cooking Gene: A Journey Through African American Culinary History in the Old South is an American non-fiction book written by Michael W. Twitty. It was published in 2017 and is a food memoir. The author combines intensive genealogical and historical research as well as personal accounts to support the argument that the origin of southern cuisine is heavily based in the continent of Africa. [1] The book was the recipient of the 2018 James Beard Foundation Book Award for Writing and Book of the Year.

Contents

Background

Michael W. Twitty is a Jew by choice and notes within The Cooking Gene that the documentation and history found within Jewish cuisine inspired him to write it. The book takes a look at the social ecology surrounding the cuisine traditionally done by African Americans in the southern US. In the book, topics such as genealogy, chattel slavery, sexuality, gender, and spirituality are discussed in addition to foodways. Twitty adds discussions surrounding Soul Food, African American foodways, and Southern Cuisine.

Summary

The Cooking Gene is about the influence that the enslavement of Africans by European settlers has had on foodways and history of the Old South. The Cooking Gene includes personal narratives, history, recipes, and folk songs. The recipes have African, Native American, and European roots as the author integrates his Jewish faith into African-American cooking. Twitty emphasizes the African flair that has been added to European and Native American ingredients by African American cooks. Additionally, he discusses plants used in cooking that are native to Africa such as sesame, okra, and sorghum.

The author discusses how he did not enjoy traditional soul food recipes during his youth but began to accept his African American heritage as he learned to cook. Twitty's experiences growing up led to him to develop an interest in culinary arts. In The Cooking Gene, the author describes the methods that African Americans used to cook on plantations and travels to the south on what the author called the "Southern Discomfort Tour" to learn more about his family's history and to authentically reproduce meal preparation experiences that former enslaved Africans may have had. Twitty argues that techniques used in African American cooking food have an innate nature and this can be attributed to the supplies Africans and their descendants had available to them during meal preparation. This exploration of the culinary history seeks to raise awareness of diversity of ingredients that African Americans traditionally ate in the South.

The Cooking Gene also compares and contrasts Jewish and Black foodways, and discusses followers of Judaism in the south. Jewish and Black culinary traditions and items have mingled with each other both in the south and in northern cities. Twitty talks about his conversion to Judaism and expresses his fondness for Jewish cuisine.

Reception

The Cooking Gene has received positive reception as it has received praise for both its prose as well as what reviewers saw as unique elements that Twitty ties into the book. [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] The Chicago Tribune commented on the work, calling it "honest" and "lyrical." [7] It has been named as one of NPR’s Best Books of 2017 and one of Smithsonian Magazine 's Ten Best Books About Food in 2017. [7]

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Soul food</span> American style of cooking

Soul food is an ethnic cuisine originating in the Southern United States historically pertaining to African-Americans. It originated from the cuisines of enslaved Africans trafficked to the North American colonies through the Atlantic slave trade during the Antebellum period and is closely associated with the cuisine of the American South. The expression "soul food" originated in the mid-1960s, when "soul" was a common word used to describe African-American culture. Soul food uses cooking techniques and ingredients from West African, Central African, Western European, and Indigenous cuisine of the Americas. Soul food came from the blending of what African Americans ate in their native countries in Africa and what was available to them as slaves. The cuisine had its share of negativity initially. Soul food was initially seen as low class food, and Northern African Americans looked down on their Black Southern counterparts who preferred soul food. The term evolved from being the diet of a slave in the South to being a primary pride in the African American community in the North such as New York City.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cuisine of the Southern United States</span> Regional cuisine of the United States

The cuisine of the Southern United States encompasses diverse food traditions of several subregions, including Tidewater, Appalachian, Ozarks, Lowcountry, Cajun, Creole, and Floribbean cuisine. In recent history, elements of Southern cuisine have spread to other parts of the United States, influencing other types of American cuisine.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cornbread</span> American bread made with cornmeal

Cornbread is a quick bread made with cornmeal, associated with the cuisine of the Southern United States, with origins in Native American cuisine. It is an example of batter bread. Dumplings and pancakes made with finely ground cornmeal are staple foods of the Hopi people in Arizona. The Hidatsa people of the Upper Midwest call baked cornbread naktsi. Cherokee and Seneca tribes enrich the basic batter, adding chestnuts, sunflower seeds, apples, or berries, and sometimes combine it with beans or potatoes. Modern versions of cornbread are usually leavened by baking powder.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cookbook</span> Book of recipes with instructions

A cookbook or cookery book is a kitchen reference containing recipes.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Gumbo</span> Louisianan stew

Gumbo is a stew popular in the U.S. state of Louisiana, and is the official state cuisine. Gumbo consists primarily of a strongly flavored stock, meat or shellfish, a thickener, and the Creole "holy trinity" – celery, bell peppers, and onions. Gumbo is often categorized by the type of thickener used, whether okra or filé powder.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cuisine of the Southwestern United States</span> Food eaten in the southwestern United States

The cuisine of the Southwestern United States is food styled after the rustic cooking of the Southwestern United States. It comprises a fusion of recipes for things that might have been eaten by Spanish colonial settlers, cowboys, Native Americans, and Mexicans throughout the post-Columbian era; there is, however, a great diversity in this kind of cuisine throughout the Southwestern states.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Edna Lewis</span> American chef

Edna Regina Lewis was a renowned American chef, teacher, and author who helped refine the American view of Southern cooking. She championed the use of fresh, in season ingredients and characterized Southern food as fried chicken, pork, and fresh vegetables – most especially greens. She wrote and co-wrote four books which covered Southern cooking and life in a small community of freed slaves and their descendants.

Vertamae Smart-Grosvenor was an American culinary anthropologist, griot, poet, food writer, and broadcaster on public media. Born into a Gullah family in the Low Country of South Carolina, she moved with them as a child to Philadelphia during the Great Migration. Later she lived in Paris before settling in New York City. She was active in the Black Arts Movement and performed on Broadway.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Shakshouka</span> Maghrebi dish of eggs poached in a sauce

Shakshouka is a Maghrebi dish of eggs poached in a sauce of tomatoes, olive oil, peppers, onion, and garlic, commonly spiced with cumin, paprika and cayenne pepper. According to Joan Nathan, shakshouka originated in Ottoman North Africa in the mid-16th century after tomatoes were introduced to the region by Hernán Cortés as part of the Columbian exchange. Shakshouka is a popular dish throughout the Middle East and North Africa.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Early modern European cuisine</span> Cuisine of early modern Europe (c. 1500–1800)

The cuisine of early modern Europe was a mix of dishes inherited from medieval cuisine combined with innovations that would persist in the modern era.

In social science, foodways are the cultural, social, and economic practices relating to the production and consumption of food. Foodways often refers to the intersection of food in culture, traditions, and history.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Joan Nathan</span> American cookbook writer

Joan Nathan is an American cookbook author and newspaper journalist. She has produced TV documentaries on the subject of Jewish cuisine. She was a co-founder of New York's Ninth Avenue Food Festival under then-Mayor Abraham Beame. The Jerusalem Post has called her the "matriarch of Jewish cooking".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">John Martin Taylor</span> American food writer and historian

John Martin Taylor, also known as Hoppin' John, is an American food writer and culinary historian, known for his writing on the cooking of the American South, and, in particular, the foods of the lowcountry, the coastal plain of South Carolina and Georgia. He has played a role in reintroducing many traditional southern dishes, and has advocated the return to stone-ground, whole-grain, heirloom grits and cornmeal production.

Ronni Lundy, is an American author and editor, whose work focuses on traditional Southern American foods, Appalachian foods, and music.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jessica B. Harris</span> American culinary historian

Jessica B. Harris is an American culinary historian, college professor, cookbook author and journalist. She is professor emerita at Queens College, City University of New York, where she taught for 50 years, and is also the author of 15 books, including cookbooks, non-fiction food writing and memoir. She has twice won James Beard Foundation Awards, including for Lifetime Achievement in 2020, and her book High on the Hog was adapted in 2021 as a four-part Netflix series by the same name.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Michael W. Twitty</span> American historian

Michael W. Twitty is an African-American Jewish writer, culinary historian, and educator. He is the author of The Cooking Gene, published by HarperCollins/Amistad, which won the 2018 James Beard Foundation Book Award for Book of the Year as well as the category for writing. The book was also a finalist for The Kirkus Prize in nonfiction, the Art of Eating Prize and a Barnes and Noble New Discoveries finalist in nonfiction.

<i>High on the Hog</i> (book) 2011 book by Jessica B. Harris

High on the Hog: A Culinary Journey from Africa to America is a non-fiction book by Jessica B. Harris, published in 2011 by Bloomsbury.

<i>The Virginia House-Wife</i>

The Virginia House-Wife is an 1824 housekeeping manual and cookbook by Mary Randolph. In addition to recipes it gave instructions for making soap, starch, blacking and cologne.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hélène Jawhara Piñer</span> French-Spanish historian

Hélène Jawhara Piñer is a French-Spanish historian, educator, and chef. She is the author of a cookbook on Sephardic cuisine and a study of medieval Jewish food culture in Spain and France. She has published articles and recipes in English, French, and Spanish in magazines and academic journals, and has lectured in cooking programs on the Sephardic culinary heritage among diasporic communities in Europe and in North and South America. She specializes in the recreation of historical recipes, such as hojuelas, a fried pastry that originated in sixteenth-century Spain which Jews in Argentina make for Purim; mufleta, a pastry made by Moroccan Jews for the holiday of Mimouna, which marks the end of Passover; and almodrote, a northern Spanish recipe for eggplant dip which closely resembles recipes for mashed eggplant included in two thirteenth-century Arabic cookbooks from Andalusia. In 2021, she presented a twelve-episode online cooking show on Sephardic culinary history for the American Sephardi Federation.

Benjamin "BJ" Dennis IV is an American Gullah Geechee chef and caterer from Charleston, South Carolina who is known for preserving Gullah Geechee cooking and culture. Additionally, he is also notable for his discovery of hill rice in December 2016 in Trinidad, which was thought to have been extinct.

References

  1. Twitty, Michael (August 2017). The cooking gene : a journey through African-American culinary history in the Old South (First ed.). New York, NY. ISBN   9780062379283. OCLC   999312171.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link)
  2. Edwards, John Carver (July 2017). "Home economics". Library Journal: 95 via Biography In Context.
  3. "Meat and Greet; Southern Food". The Economist. Vol. 424. July 2017. p. 71.
  4. Smith, Candace (2018). "The Cooking Gene: A Journey through African-American Culinary History in the Old South". Booklist. 114: 69.
  5. Dolsten, Josefin (2017). "African-American Jew Uses Cooking to Fuse His Identities as 'Afro-Ashke-Phardi". Washington Jewish Week. Retrieved November 19, 2018.
  6. Bush, Vanessa (August 2017). "The Cooking Gene: A Journey through African American Culinary History in the Old South". Booklist. 113: 11 via Academic Search Premier.
  7. 1 2 Daley, Bill. "Honest, lyrical book explores race, cuisine and reconnecting with our collective past". Chicago Tribune. Retrieved 2018-11-21.