Khalili Collection of Swedish Textiles

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The Khalili Collection of Swedish Textiles
Khalili Collection Swedish Textiles Carriage Cushion Cover.jpg
Carriage Cushion Cover (Two Lions in Floral Roundels), Scania, Bara district, late 18th century
Curators Nasser D. Khalili (founder)
Dror Elkvity (curator and chief co-ordinator)
Viveka Hansen (special advisor) [1]
Size (no. of items)100 [2]
Website www.khalilicollections.org/all-collections/swedish-textiles/

The Khalili Collection of Swedish Textiles is a private collection of textile art assembled by the British-Iranian scholar, collector and philanthropist Nasser D. Khalili. [2] The collection was built up over a period of 25 years and contains 100 works. [2] [3] It is one of eight collections assembled, conserved, published and exhibited by Khalili, each of which is considered among the most important in its field. [4] In 2008 it was described as "the only extensive collection of Swedish flatweaves outside the country". [5] The collection consists mostly of textile panels, cushion and bed covers from the Scania region of southern Sweden, dating in the main from a hundred-year period between the mid-18th and mid-19th centuries. The majority of the pieces in the collection were made for wedding ceremonies in the region. While they played a part in the ceremonies, they were also a reflection of the artistry and skill of the weaver. Their designs often consist of symbolic illustrations of fertility and long life. [2] Khalili writes that he created the collection because of the tendency of art historians and the public to undervalue art whose creators are anonymous. [6]

Contents

Background: the high era of Swedish textile art

Dove-tail tapestry (birds and vines) from Torna or Bara district, Scania, late 18th century Khalili Collection Swedish Textiles SW093.jpg
Dove-tail tapestry (birds and vines) from Torna or Bara district, Scania, late 18th century

Handwoven textile art flourished in Scania from the mid-eighteenth to the mid-nineteenth century. [7] Employment in Scania was mainly in farming, [8] and the early eighteenth century was a time of relative peace and prosperity for farmers, with far fewer epidemics than previously. The women of land-owning families, with the skills for making clothes and furnishings, thus had the leisure time and materials to make textiles with a focus on beauty rather than for use as covering. [7] These textiles would usually be kept in a wooden chest, only brought out for special occasions or for airing. [9] Wealthy farms would often have a dedicated chamber for these chests. [10]

The creators of these works were exclusively women: farmers' wives, other female members of the family, or occasionally maids. [11] Some works bear initials, but the identity of the creators is unknown. [6] The creation of a dowry was an important tradition, and for each wedding the bride would demonstrate her skill by creating unique textiles with symbolic decorations. [12] From the mid-nineteenth century onwards, the collections were mostly sold off and put to everyday use, subjecting them to wear. [13] Only a few thousand works from this period survive intact to the present day. [12]

Techniques and designs

Interlocked tapestry (Women and Birds in Stars and Hearts) from Ingelstads district, Scania, first half of the 19th century Khalili Collection Swedish Textiles sw034.jpg
Interlocked tapestry (Women and Birds in Stars and Hearts) from Ingelstads district, Scania, first half of the 19th century
Dove-tail tapestry (Flowers, Birds and People) from Torna district, Scania, second half of the 18th century Khalili Collection Swedish Textiles SW016.jpg
Dove-tail tapestry (Flowers, Birds and People) from Torna district, Scania, second half of the 18th century

The textiles use variations of a set of design motifs, including hunt scenes, stars, and geometrical shapes. Despite this, each textile is different, varying by colour, size, positioning and combination of the motifs. [14] Designs show a lot of similarity across the different techniques, apart from dove-tail tapestry, whose designs are more realistic and naturalistic. [26] Whereas stylised animals within octagons are a common motif for the other textiles, dove-tail tapestries more often have a naturalistic animal or bird within a circle. [27] A textile creator would rarely venture beyond her own village, so her imagery would have been drawn from nature and from local superstition and religion. [28] Another influence was textile art from other cultures. For thousands of years, textiles had been traded across Europe and Asia, and pictorial designs from the Near East are known to have been imported to Sweden by the fourteenth or fifteenth century. [3]

Works in the collection

Interlocked tapestry, (Two Reindeer in Octagons with People) from Ingelstads or Herrestads district, Scania, first half of the 19th century Khalili Collection Swedish Textiles SW032.jpg
Interlocked tapestry, (Two Reindeer in Octagons with People) from Ingelstads or Herrestads district, Scania, first half of the 19th century

The hundred art works in Khalili collection show the variety as well as the skill of Swedish textile artists. [3] [2] The collection is particularly strong in interlocked tapestries and dove-tail tapestries, but also has examples of the other techniques. [3] Some of the designs are repeating patterns while some have a design constructed around a central motif. [27] Very common motifs are people, animals or birds within octagons or circles, and most permutations of creature and geometric shape are represented in the collection. [27] Five objects in the collection depict prancing, open-mouthed deer within octagons, which is the most prized design for Swedish textiles. [27] One particularly elaborate bed covering has six octagons each containing pictorial scenes of people or horses. [29] An interlocked tapestry depicts bäckahästar (mythological horses with horns) [27] and a linen cloth with extra-weft patterning depicts lions. [29]

Dove-tail tapestries tend to be more pictorial and realistic than the other types of textiles, and this is reflected in the collection by tapestries depicting the Annunciation, red lions, and naturalistic floral arrangements. [26] Ascending floral lattice designs are another feature that occurs across multiple objects. This design likely reflects Italian influence. [29] An interlaced knots motif, found it many kinds of decorative art, is exemplified by embroidered works and a knotted-pile cover in the collection. [30] This knotted-pile weaving is thought to originate in Kållandsö because of its design. [25]

The Marby Rug is a knotted-pile carpet found in a church in Jämtland, central Sweden in 1925. It is believed to have come from fourteenth- or fifteenth-century Anatolia. It depicts pairs of birds facing a tree, under the wings of a great bird, and is the only known Eastern rug with this design. [3] Multiple Swedish textiles copied this design, possibly copying this specific rug, and one such cross-stitch embroidery is in the Khalili Collection. [31]

Exhibitions

Although the collection is not on permanent public display, public exhibitions in three countries have drawn exclusively from the collection. [2]

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Loom</span> Device for weaving textiles

A loom is a device used to weave cloth and tapestry. The basic purpose of any loom is to hold the warp threads under tension to facilitate the interweaving of the weft threads. The precise shape of the loom and its mechanics may vary, but the basic function is the same.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tapestry</span> Form of textile art, traditionally woven on a vertical loom

Tapestry is a form of textile art, traditionally woven by hand on a loom. Normally it is used to create images rather than patterns. Tapestry is relatively fragile, and difficult to make, so most historical pieces are intended to hang vertically on a wall, or sometimes horizontally over a piece of furniture such as a table or bed. Some periods made smaller pieces, often long and narrow and used as borders for other textiles. Most weavers use a natural warp thread, such as wool, linen, or cotton. The weft threads are usually wool or cotton but may include silk, gold, silver, or other alternatives.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Carpet</span> Textile floor covering

A carpet is a textile floor covering typically consisting of an upper layer of pile attached to a backing. The pile was traditionally made from wool, but since the 20th century synthetic fibers such as polypropylene, nylon, or polyester have often been used, as these fibers are less expensive than wool. The pile usually consists of twisted tufts that are typically heat-treated to maintain their structure. The term carpet is often used in a similar context to the term rug, but rugs are typically considered to be smaller than a room and not attached to the floor.

Ikat is a dyeing technique from Indonesia used to pattern textiles that employs resist dyeing on the yarns prior to dyeing and weaving the fabric. The term is also used to refer to related and unrelated traditions in other cultures. In Southeast Asia, where it is the most widespread, ikat weaving traditions can be divided into two general clades. The first is found among Daic-speaking peoples. The second, larger group is found among the Austronesian peoples and spread via the Austronesian expansion. Similar dyeing and weaving techniques that developed independently are also present in other regions of the world, including India, Central Asia, Japan, Africa, and the Americas.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Persian carpet</span> Term for a handmade carpet from Iran

A Persian carpet or Persian rug, also known as Iranian carpet, is a heavy textile made for a wide variety of utilitarian and symbolic purposes and produced in Iran, for home use, local sale, and export. Carpet weaving is an essential part of Persian culture and Iranian art. Within the group of Oriental rugs produced by the countries of the "rug belt", the Persian carpet stands out by the variety and elaborateness of its manifold designs.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kilim</span> Flat tapestry-woven carpet

A kilim is a flat tapestry-woven carpet or rug traditionally produced in countries of the former Persian Empire, including Iran, the Balkans and the Turkic countries. Kilims can be purely decorative or can function as prayer rugs. Modern kilims are popular floor coverings in Western households.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Knot density</span> Traditional measure for quality of handmade or knotted pile carpets

Knot density is a traditional measure for quality of handmade or knotted pile carpets. It refers to the number of knots, or knot count, per unit of surface area - typically either per square inch (kpsi) or per square centimeter (kpsc), but also per decimeter or meter. Number of knots per unit area is directly proportional to the quality of carpet. Density may vary from 25 to 1,000 knots per square inch or higher, where ≤80 kpsi is poor quality, 120 to 330 kpsi is medium to good, and ≥330 kpsi is very good quality. The inverse, knot ratio, is also used to compare characteristics. Knot density = warp×weft while knot ratio = warp/weft. For comparison: 100,000/square meter = 1,000/square decimeter = 65/square inch = 179/gereh.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Paithani</span> Variety of sari

Paithani is a variety of sari, named after the Paithan town in Aurangabad district from state of Maharashtra in India where the sari was first made by hand. Present day Yeola town in Nashik, Maharashtra is the largest manufacturer of Paithani.

An oriental rug is a heavy textile made for a wide variety of utilitarian and symbolic purposes and produced in "Oriental countries" for home use, local sale, and export.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Anatolian rug</span> Term commonly used to denote rugs woven in Anatolia

Anatolian rug is a term of convenience, commonly used today to denote rugs and carpets woven in Anatolia and its adjacent regions. Geographically, its area of production can be compared to the territories which were historically dominated by the Ottoman Empire. It denotes a knotted, pile-woven floor or wall covering which is produced for home use, local sale, and export, and religious purpose. Together with the flat-woven kilim, Anatolian rugs represent an essential part of the regional culture, which is officially understood as the Culture of Turkey today, and derives from the ethnic, religious and cultural pluralism of one of the most ancient centres of human civilisation.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Silk in the Indian subcontinent</span> Overview about silk in the India subcontinent

Silk In India, about 97% of the raw mulberry silk is produced in the Indian states of Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, Tamil Nadu and West Bengal. Mysore and North Bangalore, the upcoming site of a US$20 million "Silk City", contribute to a majority of silk production. Another emerging silk producer is Tamil Nadu in the place in where mulberry cultivation is concentrated in Salem, Erode and Dharmapuri districts. Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh and Gobichettipalayam, Tamil Nadu were the first locations to have automated silk reeling units.

The manufacture of textiles is one of the oldest of human technologies. To make textiles, the first requirement is a source of fiber from which a yarn can be made, primarily by spinning. The yarn is processed by knitting or weaving, which turns yarn into cloth. The machine used for weaving is the loom. For decoration, the process of colouring yarn or the finished material is dyeing. For more information of the various steps, see textile manufacturing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Knotted-pile carpet</span> Hand weaving technique

A knotted-pile carpet is a carpet containing raised surfaces, or piles, from the cut off ends of knots woven between the warp and weft. The Ghiordes/Turkish knot and the Senneh/Persian knot, typical of Anatolian carpets and Persian carpets, are the two primary knots. A flat or tapestry woven carpet, without pile, is a kilim. A pile carpet is influenced by width and number of warp and weft, pile height, knots used, and knot density.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pile (textile)</span> Upright loops, tufts, or strands of yarn extending from the ground of a fabric

Pile is the raised surface or nap of a fabric, consisting of upright loops or strands of yarn. Examples of pile textiles are carpets, corduroy, velvet, plush, and Turkish towels. The word is derived from Latin pilus for "hair".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Turkmen rug</span> Cultural heritage of the Turkmen people

A Turkmen rug is a type of handmade floor-covering textile traditionally originating in Central Asia. It is useful to distinguish between the original Turkmen tribal rugs and the rugs produced in large numbers for export mainly in Pakistan and Iran today. The original Turkmen rugs were produced by the Turkmen tribes who are the main ethnic group in Turkmenistan and are also found in Afghanistan and Iran. They are used for various purposes, including tent rugs, door hangings and bags of various sizes.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Soumak</span>

Soumak is a tapestry technique of weaving sturdy, decorative fabrics used for carpets, rugs, domestic bags and bedding, with soumak fabrics used for bedding known as soumak mafrash.

Scandinavia has a long and proud tradition of rug-making on par with many of the regions of the world that are perhaps more immediately associated with the craft—regions such as China and Persia. Rugs have been handmade by craftspeople in the Scandinavian countries of Denmark, Finland, Norway, and Sweden for centuries, and have often played important cultural roles in each of these countries. Contemporary Scandinavian rugs—most especially Swedish rugs—are among the most sought after rugs in the world today, largely due to the contributions of designers like Märta Måås-Fjetterström. The story of Scandinavian rugs is a vital chapter in the cultural study of Scandinavia, as it reveals a great deal about the aesthetic and social conventions of that region.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Swedish carpets and rugs</span>

Carpets and rugs have been handmade in Sweden for centuries, taking on many different forms and functions over the course of time. Rugs woven in the traditional Oriental manner, especially in the Ottoman Empire and points east, were originally brought to Sweden over trade routes as early as the early Middle Ages. In the centuries that followed, Swedish rug-makers often infused their works with themes and motifs traditionally found in Oriental rugs. Eventually, Swedish rug-makers would begin to use Oriental rug-making techniques, but themes and motifs more consistent with the artistic and cultural heritage of Sweden. By the early modern periods, rugs had long been an important avenue of art – especially folk art – in Swedish culture. By the beginning of the twentieth century, the craft was seen as being an important artistic and cultural practice throughout Sweden, and designers began to make rugs that had a broad international appeal. Swedish rugs from the mid-twentieth century remain among the most desirable and sought after in the rug world.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Lazy line</span>

A lazy line or section line is a technical feature of weaving which describes visible diagonal joins within a woven textile. It results from interlacing wefts joining adjacent warp sections woven at different times. Successive rows of turnarounds of discontinuous wefts create a diagonal line which, in pile rugs, is best seen from the back side, and from the front side only if the pile is heavily worn. A lazy line is created when the weaver does not finish a rug line by line from one side to the other, but sequentially finishes one area after the other.

<i>Meisen</i> (textile) Type of silk fabric

Meisen is a type of silk fabric traditionally produced in Japan; it is durable, hard-faced, and somewhat stiff, with a slight sheen, and slubbiness is deliberately emphasised. Meisen was first produced in the late 19th century, and became widely popular during the 1920s and 30s, when it was mass-produced and ready-to-wear kimono began to be sold in Japan. Meisen is commonly dyed using kasuri techniques, and features what were then overtly modern, non-traditional designs and colours. Meisen remained popular through to the 1950s.

References

Notes

  1. "Swedish Textiles (1700 – 1900)". Khalili Collections. Retrieved 16 June 2020.
  2. 1 2 3 4 5 6 "The Eight Collections". nasserdkhalili.com. Archived from the original on 28 October 2022. Retrieved 10 September 2019. CC BY-SA icon.svg  This article incorporates text from this source, which is licensed under CC-BY-SA 3.0.
  3. 1 2 3 4 5 Franses 1996, p. 10.
  4. "The Khalili Collections major contributor to "Longing for Mecca" exhibition at the Tropenmuseum in Amsterdam". UNESCO. United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization. 16 April 2019. Archived from the original on 7 April 2022. Retrieved 14 February 2020.
  5. Moore, Susan (17 March 2008). "The collection is a symphony". Financial Times. Retrieved 30 September 2019.
  6. 1 2 Khalili 1996, p. 8.
  7. 1 2 Hansen 1996, p. 21.
  8. Hansen 1996, p. 17.
  9. Hansen 1996, pp. 21, 28, 36.
  10. Hansen 1996, p. 36.
  11. Hansen 1996, p. 39.
  12. 1 2 Franses 1996, p. 9.
  13. Hansen 1996, p. 40.
  14. 1 2 Hansen 1996, p. 53.
  15. 1 2 Hansen 1996, p. 54.
  16. 1 2 Hansen 1996, p. 58.
  17. Hansen 1996, p. 60.
  18. Hansen 1996, p. 71.
  19. Hansen 1996, p. 65.
  20. 1 2 Hansen 1996, p. 77.
  21. Hansen 1996, pp. 153, 166.
  22. 1 2 3 Hansen 1996, p. 79.
  23. Hansen 1996, p. 80.
  24. Hansen 1996, p. 83.
  25. 1 2 Hansen 1996, p. 89.
  26. 1 2 Franses 1996, p. 14.
  27. 1 2 3 4 5 Franses 1996, p. 12.
  28. Hansen 1996, pp. 47, 49.
  29. 1 2 3 Franses 1996, p. 13.
  30. Franses 1996, p. 15.
  31. Franses 1996, p. 11.

Sources

Further reading