Torre Egger

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Torre Egger
Cerro Torre group - summits names.png
Some peaks of the Cerro Torre Group. 2: Cerro Torre, 3: Torre Egger, 4: Punta Herron, 5: Aguja Standhart, 7: Aguja Bífida, 11: Cuatro Dedos.
Highest point
Elevation 2,685 m (8,809 ft)
Prominence 275 m (902 ft) [1]
Coordinates 49°17′34″S73°05′54″W / 49.29278°S 73.09833°W / -49.29278; -73.09833
Geography
Location Patagonia, Argentina, Chile (disputed) [2]
Parent range Andes
Climbing
First ascent February 1976: Bragg, Donini, Wilson (US)
Easiest route rock/snow/ice

Torre Egger is one of the peaks in the Southern Patagonian Ice Field in South America, located between Argentina and Chile, [2] west of Cerro Chalten (or Fitz Roy). Torre Egger lies between Cerro Torre, the highest in a four mountain chain [3] and Cerro Standhardt. It is named after the Austrian alpinist Toni Egger (1926–1959), who died while climbing on Cerro Torre.

Contents

First ascent

In 1976, John Bragg, Jim Donini and Jay Wilson from the United States climbed Torre Egger by climbing first to the col between the peak and Cerro Torre, the Col of Conquest, and then up the ridge to the peak. The ascent was hampered by bad weather and took from December 1975 to February 22, 1976, when the 3-person team summited. [4]

Other ascents

In January 2008, Rolando Garibotti and Colin Haley made the first complete traverse of the entire massif, climbing Aguja Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger and Cerro Torre together. They rate their route at YDS VI 5.11 A1 WI6 Mushroom Ice 6, with 2,200 m (7,200 ft) total vertical gain. This had been "one of the world's most iconic, unclimbed lines", first attempted by Ermanno Salvaterra. [14]

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References

  1. "Torre Egger, Argentina". Peakbagger.com. Retrieved 2014-06-10. Note: The prominence value given here was calculated from the difference between an elevation of 2850m for Torre Egger and 2575m for Col de la Conquista, the key col for Torre Egger.
  2. 1 2 From Rodrigo Jordan, "Cerro Torre", in World Mountaineering, Audrey Salkeld, editor, Bulfinch Press, ISBN   0-8212-2502-2, p. 156: Cerro Torre rises "on the border between Chile and Argentina." However, Chile and Argentina have long-standing border disputes.
  3. Torre Egger 2005, Huberbuam Archived 2009-05-11 at the Wayback Machine
  4. Bragg, John (1977). "Torre Egger". American Alpine Journal. 21 (51). New York: American Alpine Club: 49–56. ISBN   978-0-930410-31-5.
  5. Karo, Silvo (1988). "Torre Egger's Southeast Face". American Alpine Journal. 30 (62). New York: American Alpine Club: 49–51. ISBN   978-0-930410-33-9.
  6. Orlandi, Elio (1988). "The Eastern Pillar of Torre Egger". American Alpine Journal. 30 (62). New York: American Alpine Club: 52–55. ISBN   978-0-930410-33-9.
  7. "Cerro y Agujas del Cordon Torre". Climbing in Patagonia. Archived from the original on 2009-06-20. Retrieved 2009-05-27.
  8. "Wild Times in Patagonia". 14 March 2005.
  9. "Against the odds". TheGuardian.com . 5 May 2007.
  10. Steph Davis (2005-06-01). "Cerro Standhardt, New Route, Torre Egger, First One-Day And First Female Ascent". Alpinist.com. Retrieved 2022-08-12.
  11. "EpicTV | Matteo della Bordella Describes First Route on West Face, Torre Egger, Patagonia - EpicTV". Archived from the original on 2013-12-12. Retrieved 2013-12-12.
  12. Carpenter, Hayden (28 September 2016). "Marc-André Leclerc Solos Patagonia's Torre Egger in Winter". Rock and Ice. Retrieved 1 June 2019.
  13. Slavsky, Bennett (3 March 2020). "Marc-André's Visión: New Route Established on Torre Egger in Honor of the Late Alpinist". Climbing.com. Retrieved 15 February 2023.
  14. Garibotti, Rolando (September 2008). "The Torre Traverse". Alpinist. 2008 (25). Jackson, Wyoming: Alpinist Magazine: 52–59.