Colin Haley

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Colin Haley
Colin Haley.jpg
Colin Haley self portrait during the first solo ascent of the Infinite Spur, Mount Foraker, Alaska.
Personal information
NationalityAmerican
Born (1984-09-02) 2 September 1984 (age 37)
Seattle, WA, USA
EducationBSc. Geology University of Washington
Website "colinhaley.com"
Climbing career
Type of climberAlpinist
Known forFast ascents of technical, alpine routes.
First ascents

Colin Haley (born 2 September 1984) is an American alpinist known for fast ascents of technical routes on mountains around the world. Haley is perhaps best known for his traverse of The Torres (Cerro Torre, Torre Egger, Punta Herron, and Aguja Standhardt), first with Rolando Garibotti in 2008, [1] [2] and subsequently with Alex Honnold - this time completing the traverse in under 24 hours. [3]

Contents

Personal life

Haley holds a BSc. in Geology from the University of Washington. He began studying engineering, but soon switched to geology so he could "have more free time in his future". [4] Haley grew up in Seattle, Washington. [2]

First ascents

Solo ascents

Haley has made the first solo ascents of a number of difficult mountains, including Aguja Standhardt, [19] Punta Herron, and Torre Egger [20] in Patagonia, and Mount Waddington, Mount Combatant, and Mount Asperity in the British Columbia Coast Range. [21]

Haley has also made the first solo ascents of the Infinite Spur on Mount Foraker, [22] and the North Buttress of Mount Hunter, [23] both in the Central Alaska Range.

Other notable ascents

In 2016, Haley and Alex Honnold completed two big traverses in Patagonia in record time. First they made the second ascent of the Torre Traverse in 20 hours and 40 minutes. A week later they made the second ascent of the “Wave Effect” traverse in 17 hours and 7 minutes, taking a more direct route than the first ascent, and with both climbers climbing every pitch free. [24]

Alaska Range ascents

In 2007, Haley made the fifth ascent of The Denali Diamond (Alaska Grade 6: 5.9 A3, 7,800') with Mark Westman [25] and the first winter ascent of Mount Huntington with Jed Brown. [26] In 2009, he and Norwegian Bjørn-Eivind Årtun made the fourth ascent of the Grison-Tedeschi route on Mount Hunter. [27]

Haley has also garnered much attention in the alpine climbing community for climbing difficult routes in the Alaska Range much faster than previously thought possible. In 2016, Haley climbed the Infinite Spur on Mount Foraker solo in 12 hours and 29 minutes "'schrund-to-summit" [28] - less than half the time required by the next fastest climbing party in 2001. [29] In 2017, Haley climbed and descended the North Buttress of Mount Hunter in 7 hours and 47 'schrund-to-summit. [30] Haley set the speed record for climbing the Cassin Ridge on Denali in June 2018 in 8 hours and 7 minutes 'schrund-to-summit. [31] [32] [33]

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References

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  2. 1 2 Pollock, Lucas (21 May 2008). "Colin Haley: Young Alpinist on Fire". Alpinist .
  3. MacDonald, Dougal. "Torre Traverse in Under 21 Hours". Climbing Magazine. 2 February 2016. Retrieved on 22 June 2018.
  4. Skoog, Gordy. "Big Year for Climber Colin Haley", Greatoutdoors.com, 2007, Retrieved on 22 June 2018.
  5. Haley, Colin. "North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Chiwawa Mountain, Intravenous", American Alpine Journal, 2005, Retrieved on: 22 June 2018
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  27. "Other Notable Activity - AAC Publications - Search The American Alpine Journal and Accidents". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2019-04-14.
  28. Adams, Seth. "Colin Haley Solos the Infinite Spur, Gets Caught in Storm During Descent", Alpinist (magazine), 2016, Retrieved on 22 June 2018.
  29. Garibotti, Rolando. "Mt. Foraker, Infinite Spur, Fast Ascent", American Alpine Journal, 2001, Retrieved on 22 June 2018.
  30. Adams, Seth. "Colin Haley solos North Buttress of Begguya (Mt. Hunter) round-trip in 17 hours", Alpinist (magazine), 2017, Retrieved on 22 June 2018.
  31. "Colin Haley Sets New Speed Record on Cassin Ridge", Gripped Magazine, 2018, Retrieved on 22 June 2018.
  32. Levy, Michael. "Colin Haley Sets New Speed Record on Denali’s Cassin Ridge", Rock and Ice Magazine, 2018, Retrieved on 22 June 2018.
  33. "Colin Haley dashes up Denali Cassin Ridge in record-breaking 8 hours 7 minutes". Planet Mountain. 15 Jun 2018.