Personal information | |
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Nationality | American |
Born | Seattle, WA, USA | 2 September 1984
Education | BSc. Geology University of Washington |
Website | "colinhaley.com" |
Climbing career | |
Type of climber | Alpinist |
Known for | Fast ascents of technical, alpine routes. |
First ascents |
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Colin Haley (born 2 September 1984) is an American alpinist known for fast ascents of technical routes on mountains around the world. Haley is perhaps best known for his traverse of The Torres (Cerro Torre, Torre Egger, Punta Herron, and Aguja Standhardt), first with Rolando Garibotti in 2008, [1] [2] and subsequently with Alex Honnold - this time completing the traverse in under 24 hours. [3]
Haley holds a BSc. in Geology from the University of Washington. He began studying engineering, but soon switched to geology so he could "have more free time in his future". [4] Haley grew up in Seattle, Washington. [2]
Haley has made the first solo ascents of a number of difficult mountains, including Aguja Standhardt, [19] Punta Herron, and Torre Egger [20] in Patagonia, and Mount Waddington, Mount Combatant, and Mount Asperity in the British Columbia Coast Range. [21]
Haley has also made the first solo ascents of the Infinite Spur on Mount Foraker, [22] and the North Buttress of Mount Hunter, [23] both in the Central Alaska Range.
In 2016, Haley and Alex Honnold completed two big traverses in Patagonia in record time. First they made the second ascent of the Torre Traverse in 20 hours and 40 minutes. A week later they made the second ascent of the “Wave Effect” traverse in 17 hours and 7 minutes, taking a more direct route than the first ascent, and with both climbers climbing every pitch free. [24]
In 2007, Haley made the fifth ascent of The Denali Diamond (Alaska Grade 6: 5.9 A3, 7,800') with Mark Westman [25] and the first winter ascent of Mount Huntington with Jed Brown. [26] In 2009, he and Norwegian Bjørn-Eivind Årtun made the fourth ascent of the Grison-Tedeschi route on Mount Hunter. [27]
Haley has also garnered much attention in the alpine climbing community for climbing difficult routes in the Alaska Range much faster than previously thought possible. In 2016, Haley climbed the Infinite Spur on Mount Foraker solo in 12 hours and 29 minutes "'schrund-to-summit" [28] - less than half the time required by the next fastest climbing party in 2001. [29] In 2017, Haley climbed and descended the North Buttress of Mount Hunter in 7 hours and 47 'schrund-to-summit. [30] Haley set the speed record for climbing the Cassin Ridge on Denali in June 2018 in 8 hours and 7 minutes 'schrund-to-summit. [31] [32] [33]
Alexander Huber, is a German climber and mountaineer. He became a professional mountaineer in 1997, and was one of the most successful climbers and mountaineers of the 2000s. While being an all-round climber, Huber is most famous for his bold free ascents of big walls, and his expeditions in the Pakistan, Antarctica, and Greenland.
Cerro Torre is one of the mountains of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field in South America. It is located in a region which is disputed between Argentina and Chile, west of Fitz Roy. The peak is the highest of a four mountain chain: the other peaks are Torre Egger, Punta Herron, and Cerro Standhardt. The top of the mountain often has a mushroom of rime ice, formed by the constant strong winds, increasing the difficulty of reaching the actual summit.
Monte Fitz Roy is a mountain in Patagonia, on the border between Argentina and Chile. It is located in the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, near El Chaltén village and Viedma Lake. It was first climbed in 1952 by French alpinists Lionel Terray and Guido Magnone.
Barbara Washburn was an American mountaineer. She became the first woman to climb Denali on June 6, 1947. She was the wife and climbing partner of mountaineer and scientist Bradford Washburn.
Mount Moffit is a peak in the Alaska Range in central Alaska, United States, about 10 miles (16 km) east-southeast of Mount Hayes. It is notable for its steep faces and large relief above local terrain. For example, the north face drops 7,400 feet in approximately 1.2 miles (2 km) horizontal distance.
Cesare Maestri was an Italian mountaineer and writer.
Steve House is an American professional climber and mountain guide.
The Piolet d'Or is an annual mountaineering award given by the French magazine Montagnes and The Groupe de Haute Montagne since 1992. Golden Ice Axes are awarded for achievements in the previous year. It is considered mountaineering's highest honor, and is considered to be the "Oscars" of mountaineering and climbing. Nominations are selected by GHM and Montagnes, and the award is chosen by a jury consisting of Guy Chaumereuil, Jean-Claude Marmier, the current president of GHM, the current editor of Montagnes, the previous year's winners and three members invited by GHM, one of whom becomes the president of the jury.
Rolando Garibotti is an Argentinian and American professional climber, writer, and mountain guide. He is from Bariloche, Argentina. These days he splits his time between the town of El Chaltén, Argentina, and the Dolomites in Italy.
Torre Egger is one of the mountains of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field in South America. It is located in a region which is disputed between Argentina and Chile, west of Cerro Chalten. The peak is between Cerro Torre, the highest in a four mountain chain and Cerro Stanhardt. It is named after the Austrian alpinist Toni Egger (1926-1959), who died while attempting neighboring Cerro Torre.
Jim Donini is an American rock climber and alpinist, noted for a long history of cutting-edge climbs in Alaska and Patagonia. He was president of the American Alpine Club from 2006 to 2009, and a 1999 recipient of the AAC's Robert and Miriam Underhill Award.
Alexander Honnold is an American rock climber best known for his free solo ascents of big walls, in particular his free soloing of El Capitan, in Yosemite National Park in 2017.
Marko Prezelj is a Slovenian mountaineer and photographer.
Athol Whimp (1961–2012) was a New Zealand mountaineer, rock climber and soldier. Widely regarded as the most accomplished alpinist in New Zealand's modern era, he is the country's only recipient of the prestigious Piolet d'Or award for mountaineering.
Hervé Barmasse is a francophone Italian alpinist. He began his career as a mountaineer on his home mountain, the Matterhorn, climbing new routes and repeating various prestigious ones.
Hayden Kennedy was an American rock climber and mountaineer who made difficult ascents in North America, Patagonia and in the Himalaya. He committed suicide in 2017 after the sudden death of his partner. He was the son of renowned writer and mountaineer Michael Kennedy and he won the Piolet d'Or for his ascent of The Ogre in 2013.
Brette Harrington is an American professional rock climber and alpinist based in Lake Tahoe, California and British Columbia, Canada. She is best known for the first free solo of 2,500-foot Chiaro di Luna (5.11a) in Patagonia, for her development of new alpine climbing routes and as the star of Brette, a Reel Rock Film Tour short film.
Silvia Vidal is a professional Spanish big wall climber, explorer and alpinist from Barcelona, Spain. She is particularly known for her big wall soloing accomplishments in remote mountain regions of Pakistan, India, Patagonia and Alaska.
Marc-André Leclerc was a Canadian rock climber and alpinist. Known for his solo ascents of numerous mountains in several parts of the world, he completed the first winter solo ascents of the Torre Egger in Patagonia, and the Emperor Face of Mount Robson.
On June 28, 2013, the centennial anniversary of the first ascent of Denali, Tom Choate was recognized as the oldest person to summit Denali at the age of seventy-eight years old. He has reached the peak of Denali multiple times, spanning across five different decades: in 1963, 1983, 1993, 2003, and lastly in 2013.