Gingham

Last updated
Gingham cloth with green and white checks Greengingham.jpg
Gingham cloth with green and white checks

Gingham, also called Vichy check, is a medium-weight balanced plain-woven fabric typically with tartan (plaid), striped, or check duotone patterns, in bright colour and in white made from dyed cotton or cotton-blend yarns. It is made of carded, medium or fine yarns. [1] [2]

Contents

History

The name may originate from Malay genggang  'ajar, separate.' [3] [4] Alternatively, it is speculated that the fabric now known as gingham may have been made at Guingamp, a town in Brittany, France, and that the fabric may be named after the town. [5] Some sources say that the name came into English via Dutch. [6] [7] When originally imported into Europe in the 17th century, gingham was a striped fabric, though now it is distinguished by its checkered pattern. From the mid-18th century, when it was being produced in the mills of Manchester, England, it started to be woven into checked or tartan (plaid) patterns (often blue and white). Checked gingham became more common over time, though striped gingham was still available in the late Victorian period. [8] The equivalent in French is the noun vichy , from the town of Vichy, France. The same word is used in Spain, where this pattern is called cuadro vichy or estampado vichy.

In the United States, the mass popularity of men's blue and white gingham-patterned shirts in the 2010s led to critical media coverage of the phenomenon. [9] [10] [11]

Use

Gingham patterns in a 1911 Macy's catalogue Catalogue no. 16, spring-summer - R. H. Macy and Co. (1911) (14597965827).jpg
Gingham patterns in a 1911 Macy's catalogue

Gingham fabric was popular to use in various dress material such as shirts, skirts, maxi and also for some home furnishing such as towels and curtains. Along with muslin, gingham is often used as a test fabric while designing fashion or used for making an inexpensive fitting shell prior to making the clothing in fashion fabric. Gingham shirts have been worn by mods since the 1960s and continue to be identified with fans of indie and mod music with brands like Lambretta Clothing, Ben Sherman, Fred Perry, Penguin and Merc producing gingham shirts. [12] [13]

In the United Kingdom, the gingham pattern is often used for younger girls' school uniforms. [14]

See also

Notes

  1. Kadolph 2007, p. 325
  2. "gingham noun - Definition, pictures, pronunciation and usage notes | Oxford Advanced Learner's Dictionary at OxfordLearnersDictionaries.com". www.oxfordlearnersdictionaries.com. Retrieved 2020-10-23.
  3. "Pusat Rujukan Persuratan Melayu" (in Malay). Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia: Dewan Bahasa dan Pustaka. Retrieved 11 November 2011. genggang: (génggang) sj kain yg bercorak berjalur-jalur atau dam / fabric patterned in stripes or checkers.
  4. "genggang : English to Malay dictionary online - Malaycube". malaycube.com.
  5. Chisholm, Hugh, ed. (1911). "Gingham"  . Encyclopædia Britannica . Vol. 12 (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press. p. 28.
  6. "Online Etymology Dictionary". www.etymonline.com.
  7. American Heritage Dictionary of the English Language
  8. "Did old-fashioned gingham always have checks?". Archived from the original on 2010-01-03.
  9. Fitzpatrick, Alex (August 22, 2014). "In Defense of That J-Crew Gingham Shirt". Time .
  10. Gallagher, Jacob (8 March 2018). "Stop Dressing Like Every Other Guy: Give up Your Gingham Shirts". Wall Street Journal.
  11. Woolf, Jake (August 21, 2014). "There's an Entire Instagram Account Dedicated to One J.Crew Shirt". GQ .
  12. Hewitt, Paolo (2011). The Soul Stylists. Mainstream Publishing. p. 154. ISBN   9781780570235.
  13. Laraine Porter, Justin Smith, I.Q. Hunter (2017). The Routledge Companion to British Cinema History. Taylor and Francis. p. 288. ISBN   9781315392172.
  14. Roya Ferdows, Soosan Latham (2017). The Boarding School Girls. Routledge. p. 2017. ISBN   9781351745666.
  15. "Manchester United 12/13 Nike Home Football Shirt". footballshirtculture.com. Archived from the original on 2020-03-26. Retrieved 2012-05-11.
  16. Burns, Ken (September 2019). "Country Music (The Sons and Daughters of America)". PBS .
  17. Oermann, Robert K.; Bufwack, Mary A. (2003). Finding Her Voice: Women in Country Music: 1800–2000 . Nashville, TN: The Country Music Press & Vanderbilt University Press. p. 302. ISBN   0-8265-1432-4.
  18. "My Woman My Woman My Wife lyrics chords - Marty Robbins". www.classic-country-song-lyrics.com.
  19. "Grammy Award Nominees 1971 - Grammy Award Winners 1971". www.awardsandshows.com.

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kilt</span> Skirt-like garment worn with Scottish Highland dress and sometimes more broadly

A kilt is a garment resembling a wrap-around knee-length skirt, made of twill-woven worsted wool with heavy pleats at the sides and back and traditionally a tartan pattern. Originating in the Scottish Highland dress for men, it is first recorded in the 16th century as the great kilt, a full-length garment whose upper half could be worn as a cloak. The small kilt or modern kilt emerged in the 18th century, and is essentially the bottom half of the great kilt. Since the 19th century, it has become associated with the wider culture of Scotland, and more broadly with Gaelic or Celtic heritage.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Madras (cloth)</span> Fine handwoven cotton fabric of India

Madras is a lightweight cotton fabric with typically patterned texture and tartan design, used primarily for summer clothing such as pants, shorts, lungi, dresses, and jackets. The fabric takes its name from the former name of the city of Chennai in south India.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Satin</span> Shiny, fragile fabric weave pattern, with long floats

A satin weave is a type of fabric weave that produces a characteristically glossy, smooth or lustrous material, typically with a glossy top surface and a dull back; it is not durable, as it tends to snag. It is one of three fundamental types of textile weaves alongside plain weave and twill weave.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tartan</span> Predominantly Scottish cloth pattern

Tartan is a patterned cloth with crossing horizontal and vertical bands in multiple colours, forming simple or complex rectangular patterns. Tartans originated in woven wool, but are now made in other materials. Tartan is particularly associated with Scotland, and Scottish kilts almost always have tartan patterns.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Blouse</span> Garment for the upper body

A blouse is a loose-fitting upper garment that may be worn by workmen, peasants, artists, women, and children. It is typically gathered at the waist or hips so that it hangs loosely ("blouses") over the wearer's body. Today, the word most commonly refers to a girl's or woman's dress shirt, although there is considerable confusion between a true blouse and a women's shirt. It can also refer to a man's shirt if it is a loose-fitting style, though it rarely is. Traditionally, the term has been used to refer to a shirt which blouses out or has an unmistakably feminine appearance, although even many "standard" shirts today have a somewhat blousy fit, and the numbers of men wearing such shirts may match that of women wearing actual blouses.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Gabardine</span> Tough, tightly woven fabric used to make suits, trousers and some other garments

Gabardine is a durable twill worsted wool, a tightly woven fabric originally waterproof and used to make suits, overcoats, trousers, uniforms, windbreakers, outerwear and other garments. Often associated with the Burberry fashion house and their synonymous trench coats, the original reference, "gaberdine", it related to the long, cape-like dress worn during the medieval era.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Flannel</span> Soft woven fabric with a lightly napped surface

Flannel is a soft woven fabric, of varying fineness. Flannel was originally made from carded wool or worsted yarn, but is now often made from either wool, cotton, or synthetic fiber. Flannel is commonly used to make tartan clothing, blankets, bed sheets, sleepwear, and several other uses.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Highland dress</span> Traditional dress of Scotlands highlands and isles

Highland dress is the traditional, regional dress of the Highlands and Isles of Scotland. It is often characterised by tartan. Specific designs of shirt, jacket, bodice and headwear may also be worn along with clan badges and other devices indicating family and heritage.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Dress shirt</span> Type of shirt

A dress shirt, button shirt, button-front, button-front shirt, or button-up shirt is a garment with a collar and a full-length opening at the front, which is fastened using buttons or shirt studs. A button-down or button-down shirt is a dress shirt with a button-down collar – a collar having the ends fastened to the shirt with buttons.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Belted plaid</span> Large piece of fabric wrapped around the body, loosely gathered and belted at the waist

The belted plaid is a large blanket-like piece of fabric which is wrapped around the body with the material pleated or, more accurately, loosely gathered and secured at the waist by means of a belt. Typically, a portion of the belted plaid hangs down to about the knees or ankles with the rest of the material being wrapped up around the upper body in a variety of ways and pinned or otherwise secured to keep it in place.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Houndstooth</span> Two-color broken check pattern

Houndstooth, hounds tooth check or hound's tooth, also known as dogstooth, dogtooth, dog's tooth,, is a duotone textile pattern characterized by a tessellation of light and dark solid checks alternating with light-and-dark diagonally-striped checks—similar in pattern to gingham plaid but with diagonally-striped squares in place of gingham's blended-tone squares—traditionally in black and white, although other contrasting colour combinations may be used.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1945–1960 in Western fashion</span> Costume and fashion in the post-war years 1945-1960

Fashion in the years following World War II is characterized by the resurgence of haute couture after the austerity of the war years. Square shoulders and short skirts were replaced by the soft femininity of Christian Dior's "New Look" silhouette, with its sweeping longer skirts, fitted waist, and rounded shoulders, which in turn gave way to an unfitted, structural look in the later 1950s.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Workwear</span> Clothing that is worn in the exercise of a service profession, a craft or an engineering profession

Workwear is clothing worn for work, especially work that involves manual labour. Often those employed within trade industries elect to be outfitted in workwear because it is built to provide durability and safety.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Border tartan</span> Checked fabric associated with the Anglo-Scottish Border country

Border tartan, sometimes known as Borders tartan, Northumbrian tartan, Northumberland tartan, shepherds' plaid, shepherds' check, Border drab, or Border check, is a design used in woven fabrics historically associated with the Anglo-Scottish Border, particularly with the Scottish Borders and Northumberland. Possibly the most identifiable Border tartan garment of the region is the maud, made popular from the 1820s by fashionable Border Scots such as Sir Walter Scott, James Hogg, Henry Scott Riddell and Robert Burns.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Check (pattern)</span> Pattern of intersecting vertical and horizontal stripes

Check is a pattern of modified stripes consisting of crossed horizontal and vertical lines which form squares. The pattern typically contains two colours where a single checker is surrounded on all four sides by a checker of a different colour.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tattersall (cloth)</span> Cloth pattern

Tattersall is a style of tartan pattern woven into cloth. The pattern is composed of regularly-spaced thin, even vertical warp stripes, repeated horizontally in the weft, thereby forming squares.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Fashion and clothing in the Philippines</span> Fashion and folk costume of the Philippines

Fashion and clothing in the Philippines refers to the way the people of the Philippine society generally dress up at home, at work, travelling and during special occasions.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Stripe (pattern)</span> Long and narrow band of color, often in alternating sets.

A stripe is a line or band that differs in color or tone from an adjacent area. Stripes are a group of such lines in a repeating pattern of similar regions.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Maud (plaid)</span>

A maud is a woollen blanket or plaid woven in a pattern of small black and white checks known as Border tartan, Shepherd's check, Shepherd's plaid or Galashiels grey. It was in common use as an item of clothing in the southern counties of Scotland and the northern counties of England until the early twentieth century.

Tissue is a thin, transparent, and lightweight material. Tissue fabric is a suitable material for designing various types of garments, including saris. Tissue is characterized by the use of metallic yarns for decorative purposes. The tissue sari is composed of silk threads in the warp and zari in the weft.

References