Velvet

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Weave details visible on a purple-colored velvet fabric Blue velvet.jpg
Weave details visible on a purple-colored velvet fabric

Velvet is a type of woven fabric with a dense, even pile [1] that gives it a distinctive soft feel. By extension, the word velvety means "smooth like velvet". Historically, velvet was typically made from silk. Today, velvet can be made from silk, linen, cotton, wool, synthetic fibers, silk-cotton blends, or synthetic-natural fiber blends. [2]

Contents

Construction and composition

Illustration depicting the manufacture of velvet fabric Velvet warp.svg
Illustration depicting the manufacture of velvet fabric

Velvet is woven on a special loom that weaves two thicknesses of the material at the same time; the two layers are connected with an extra warp yarn that is woven over rods or wires. [3] The two pieces are then cut apart to create the fabric's pile, and the two lengths of fabric are wound on separate take-up rolls. This complicated process meant that velvet was expensive to make before industrial power looms became available, and well-made velvet remains a fairly costly fabric. Velvet is difficult to clean because of its pile, but modern dry cleaning methods make cleaning more feasible. Velvet pile is created by cutting the warp yarns, while velveteen pile is created by cutting the weft yarns.

Velvet can be made from several different kinds of fibers, the most expensive of which is silk. Much of the velvet sold today as "silk velvet" is a blend of silk and another fiber, often rayon or cotton. [4] Velvet made entirely from silk is rare and usually has market prices of several hundred US dollars per yard. Cotton is also used to make velvet, though this often results in a less luxurious fabric. Velvet can also be made from fibers such as linen, mohair, and wool. A cloth made by the Kuba people of the Democratic Republic of Congo from the raffia palm is often referred to as "Kuba velvet". Modern velvet can be polyester, nylon, viscose, acetate, or blends of synthetics and natural fibers (for example, viscose mixed with silk produces a very soft, reflective fabric). A small percentage of spandex is sometimes added to give the final material a certain amount of stretch (hence "stretch velvet"). [5]

Velvet has a thick pile and can be cut 'pile up' or 'pile down' for more shine or more saturated color. [6]

History

Velvet with Medici arms, Florence or Venice, 1440-1500 Medici velvet.jpg
Velvet with Medici arms, Florence or Venice, 1440–1500

Because of its unusual softness and appearance as well as its high cost of production, velvet has often been associated with nobility. Velvet was introduced to Baghdad during the rule of Harun al-Rashid (786–809) by Kashmiri merchants and to Al-Andalus by Ziryab. In the Mamluk era, Cairo was the world's largest producer of velvet. Much of it was exported to Venice (whence it spread to most of Europe), Iberia and the Mali Empire. Mansa Musa, the ruler of the Mali Empire, visited Cairo on his pilgrimage to Mecca. Many Arab velvet makers accompanied him back to Timbuktu. Later Ibn Battuta mentions how Suleyman, the ruler of Mali, wore a locally produced complete crimson velvet kaftan on Eid. During the reign of Mehmed II, assistant cooks wore blue dresses (câme-i kebûd), conical hats (کلاه, külâh) and baggy trousers (چاقشیر, çakşır) made from Bursa velvet.[ citation needed ]

King Richard II of England directed in his will that his body should be clothed in velveto in 1399. [7]

A cope in pile-on-pile velvet Chasuble abondance.JPG
A cope in pile-on-pile velvet

The Encyclopædia Britannica Eleventh Edition described velvet and its history thus:

VELVET, a silken textile fabric having a short dense piled surface. In all probability the art of velvet-weaving originated in the Far East; and it is not till about the beginning of the 14th century that we find any mention of the textile. The peculiar properties of velvet, the splendid yet softened depth of dye-colour it exhibited, at once marked it out as a fit material for ecclesiastical vestments, royal and state robes, and sumptuous hangings; and the most magnificent textures of medieval times were Italian velvets. These were in many ways most effectively treated for ornamentation, such as by varying the colour of the pile, by producing pile of different lengths (pile upon pile, or double pile), and by brocading with plain silk, with uncut pile or with a ground of gold tissue, &c. The earliest sources of European artistic velvets were Catanzaro, [8] [9] Lucca, Genoa, Florence, and Venice, which continued to send out rich velvet textures. Somewhat later the art was taken up by Flemish weavers, and in the sixteenth century, Bruges attained a reputation for velvets that were not inferior to those of the great Italian cities. [10]

Types

Chiffon (or transparent) velvet
very lightweight velvet on a sheer silk or rayon chiffon base. [11]
Ciselé
velvet where the pile uses cut and uncut loops to create a pattern. [11]
Crushed
lustrous velvet with patterned appearance that is produced by either pressing the fabric down in different directions, or alternatively by mechanically twisting the fabric while wet. [12]
Devoré or burnout
a velvet treated with a caustic solution to dissolve areas of the pile, creating a velvet pattern upon a sheer or lightweight base fabric. [12]
Embossed
velvet on which a metal roller has been used to heat-stamp the fabric, producing a pattern. [12]
Hammered
an extremely lustrous velvet with a crushed and dappled appearance. [12]
Lyons
a densely woven, stiff, heavier-weight pile velvet used for hats, coat collars and garments. [11] [13]
Mirror
a type of exceptionally soft and light crushed velvet. [13]
Nacré
velvet with an effect similar to shot silk where the pile is woven in one or more colours and the base fabric in another, creating a changeable, iridescent effect. [11] [13]
Panne
a type of crushed velvet produced by forcing the pile in a single direction by applying heavy pressure. [14] Sometimes, less frequently, called paon velvet. [15] However, since the 1970s, "panne velvet" as used in ordinary fabric stores has referred to a pile knit, perhaps better called a velour, with a short pile that falls in many directions; usually of polyester.
Pile-on-pile, also called double velvet
a particularly luxurious type of velvet woven with piles of differing heights to create a pattern. It is one of the oldest known velvet weaving techniques. [16] [17] [18]
Plain
velvet commonly made of cotton with a firm hand. [12]
Ponson
A very heavy and quite expensive velvet made either entirely with silk or having a pile exclusively of silk, used at one point for women's dresses and cloaks
Utrecht
a pressed and crimped velvet associated with Utrecht, the Netherlands. [11]
Voided
velvet deliberately woven with areas of pile-free ground (usuallysatin) forming a pattern. [19]
Wedding ring or ring velvet
another term for devoré and/or chiffon velvets which are allegedly fine enough to be drawn through a wedding ring. [20]

Fibers

Cotton
Cotton velvet is highly durable, but lacks much of the luxuriousness of other varieties of velvet, and its colors tend not to be as deep or rich
Silk
Silk velvet is one of the more expensive kinds of velvet, and is usually shinier and softer than the cotton variety [12]
Microfiber
Microfiber velvet is a synthetic polyester variety of the fabric that resists stains easily and is lightweight
Nylon/rayon blend
Nylon/rayon blend velvet has much of the feel and drape of silk-based velvet, but is usually much less expensive; also, it is easier to care for than silk velvet
Polyester/spandex
Polyester/spandex velvet (often called "stretch velvet") can be made of polyester with a small percentage of spandex to allow it to stretch in one or two directions
Viscose
In terms of quality, viscose velvet is more similar to silk velvet than cotton velvet as it is softer and richer than the cotton [12]

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Textile</span> Various fiber-based materials

Textile is an umbrella term that includes various fiber-based materials, including fibers, yarns, filaments, threads, different fabric types, etc. At first, the word "textiles" only referred to woven fabrics. However, weaving is not the only manufacturing method, and many other methods were later developed to form textile structures based on their intended use. Knitting and non-woven are other popular types of fabric manufacturing. In the contemporary world, textiles satisfy the material needs for versatile applications, from simple daily clothing to bulletproof jackets, spacesuits, and doctor's gowns.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Yarn</span> Long continuous length of interlocked fibres

Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibres, used in sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery, ropemaking, and the production of textiles. Thread is a type of yarn intended for sewing by hand or machine. Modern manufactured sewing threads may be finished with wax or other lubricants to withstand the stresses involved in sewing. Embroidery threads are yarns specifically designed for needlework. Yarn can be made of a number of natural or synthetic materials, and comes in a variety of colors and thicknesses. Although yarn may be dyed different colours, most yarns are solid coloured with a uniform hue.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Rayon</span> Cellulose-based semi-synthetic fiber

Rayon, also called viscose and commercialised in some countries as sabra silk or cactus silk, is a semi-synthetic fiber, made from natural sources of regenerated cellulose, such as wood and related agricultural products. It has the same molecular structure as cellulose. Many types and grades of viscose fibers and films exist. Some imitate the feel and texture of natural fibers such as silk, wool, cotton, and linen. The types that resemble silk are often called artificial silk. It can be woven or knit to make textiles for clothing and other purposes.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Velour</span> Knitted fabric or textile resembling velvet

Velour, occasionally velours, is a plush, knitted fabric or textile similar to velvet or velveteen. It can be made from polyester, spandex, or cotton, or a cotton-polyester blend. Velour is used in a wide variety of applications, including clothing and upholstery. Velour typically has a medium-length pile, shorter than velvet but longer than velveteen.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Lyocell</span> Regenerated cellulose fiber made from dissolving pulp

Lyocell is a semi-synthetic fiber used to make textiles for clothing and other purposes. It is a form of regenerated cellulose made by dissolving pulp and dry jet-wet spinning. Unlike rayon; which is made by the more common viscose processes, Lyocell production does not use carbon disulfide, which is toxic to workers and the environment. Lyocell was originally trademarked as Tencel in 1982.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bathrobe</span> Loose, informal garment worn after bathing or at home

A bathrobe, also known as a housecoat or a dressing gown, is a loose-fitting outer garment worn by people, often after washing the body or around a pool. A bathrobe is considered to be very informal clothing, and is not worn with everyday clothes.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Crêpe (textile)</span> Any of various fabrics with twisted threads, often crinkled surface

Crêpe, also spelled crepe or crape, is a silk, wool, or synthetic fiber fabric with a distinctively crisp and crimped appearance. The term "crape" typically refers to a form of the fabric associated specifically with mourning. Crêpe was also historically called "crespe" or "crisp".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Velveteen</span> Type of cloth made to imitate velvet

Velveteen is a type of woven fabric with a dense, even, short pile. It has less sheen than velvet because the pile in velveteen is cut from weft threads, while that of velvet is cut from warp threads. Velveteen also has a shorter pile than velvet and is stiffer, with less drape, and is usually made of cotton or a cotton-silk blend.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Chiffon (fabric)</span> Sheer, lightweight plain-woven textile

Chiffon (French:[ʃi.fɔ̃];, shif-ON, from the French word chiffe which means "cloth or rag"; is a lightweight, balanced plain-woven sheer fabric, or gauze, like gossamer, woven of alternate S- and Z-twist crepe yarns. Crepe yarn tends to have a tighter twist than standard yarns. The twist in the crepe yarns puckers the fabric slightly in both directions after weaving, giving it some stretch and a slightly rough feel.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pile weave</span>

Pile weave is a form of textile created by weaving. This type of fabric is characterized by a pile—a looped or tufted surface that extends above the initial foundation, or 'ground' weave. The pile is formed by supplemental yarn running in the direction of the length of the fabric or the width of the fabric. Pile weaves include velvet and corduroy fabrics and machine-woven Berber carpets.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Terrycloth</span> Absorbent textile with a looped pile

Terrycloth, terry cloth, terry cotton, terry toweling, terry, terry towel, Turkish toweling (formerly), or simply toweling is a fabric woven with many protruding loops of thread which can absorb large amounts of water. It can be manufactured by weaving or knitting. Terrycloth is woven on special looms that have two beams of longitudinal warp through which the filler or weft is fired laterally.

The manufacture of textiles is one of the oldest of human technologies. To make textiles, the first requirement is a source of fiber from which a yarn can be made, primarily by spinning. The yarn is processed by knitting or weaving, which turns yarn into cloth. The machine used for weaving is the loom. For decoration, the process of colouring yarn or the finished material is dyeing. For more information of the various steps, see textile manufacturing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Charmeuse</span> Lightweight woven fabric with a satin face and dull back

Charmeuse is a lightweight fabric woven with a satin weave. These float threads give the front of the fabric a smooth, shiny finish, whereas the back has a dull finish. Charmeuse differs from plain satin in that charmeuse has a different ratio of float (face) threads, and is of a lighter weight. Charmeuse may be made of silk, polyester, or rayon. Charmeuse woven from blended fibers has also become more common. It is used in women's clothing such as lingerie, evening gowns, and blouses, especially garments with a bias cut. It is occasionally used in menswear.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Artificial silk</span>

Artificial silk or art silk is any synthetic fiber which resembles silk, but typically costs less to produce. Frequently, "artificial silk" is just a synonym for rayon. When made out of bamboo viscose it is also sometimes called bamboo silk.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Finishing (textiles)</span> Manufacturing process

In textile manufacturing, finishing refers to the processes that convert the woven or knitted cloth into a usable material and more specifically to any process performed after dyeing the yarn or fabric to improve the look, performance, or "hand" (feel) of the finish textile or clothing. The precise meaning depends on context.

Many materials have been used to make garments throughout history. Grasses, furs and much more complex and exotic materials have been used. Cultures like the Arctic Circle, make their wardrobes out of prepared and decorated furs and skins.[1] Different cultures have added cloth to leather and skins as a way to replace real leather. A wide range of fibers, including natural, cellulose, and synthetic fibers, can be used to weave or knit cloth. From natural fibers like cotton and silk to synthetic ones like polyester and nylon, most certainly reflects culture.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Devoré</span> Technique of creating a pattern on fabric, especially velvet, by burning out the pile with acid

Devoré is a fabric technique particularly used on velvets, where a mixed-fibre material undergoes a chemical process to dissolve the cellulose fibers to create a semi-transparent pattern against more solidly woven fabric. The same technique can also be applied to textiles other than velvet, such as lace or the fabrics in burnout t-shirts.

<i>Tanmono</i> Traditional bolt of narrow-loom Japanese cloth

A tanmono is a bolt of traditional Japanese narrow-loomed cloth. It is used to make traditional Japanese clothes, textile room dividers, sails, and other traditional cloth items.

A blend is a mixture of two or more fibers. In yarn spinning, different compositions, lengths, diameters, or colors may be combined to create a blend. Blended textiles are fabrics or yarns produced with a combination of two or more types of different fibers, or yarns to obtain desired traits and aesthetics. Blending is possible at various stages of textile manufacturing. The term, blend, refers to spun fibers or a fabric composed of such fibers. There are several synonymous terms: a combination yarn is made up of two strands of different fibers twisted together to form a ply; a mixture or mixed cloth refers to blended cloths in which different types of yarns are used in warp and weft sides.

References

  1. "Velvet | fabric | Britannica". www.britannica.com. Retrieved 2023-03-24.
  2. "The 7 Things You Need to Know About Velvet".
  3. Reath, Nancy Andrews (April 1927). "Weaves in Hand-Loom Fabrics". Bulletin of the Pennsylvania Museum. 22 (112): 358–366. Retrieved 23 January 2024.
  4. Jeanne Stauffer (1 January 2004). Sewing Smart with Fabric. DRG Wholesale. p. 73. ISBN   978-1-59217-018-0.
  5. "What Is Velvet? A Guide to the Different Types of Velvet". MasterClass. Retrieved 23 January 2024.
  6. "Velvet vs Velour vs Velveteen: how to Choose, Sew and Care". Dalston Mill Fabrics. Retrieved 23 January 2024.
  7. L W Cowrie (1996). Dictionary of British Social History. Wordsworth Reference. p. 304. ISBN   1-85326-378-8.
  8. "Top Velvet".
  9. "Discover the velvet hair fabric".
  10. Wikisource-logo.svg One or more of the preceding sentences incorporates text from a publication now in the public domain:  Chisholm, Hugh, ed. (1911). "Velvet". Encyclopædia Britannica . Vol. 27 (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press. pp. 979–980.
  11. 1 2 3 4 5 Maitra, K.K. (2007). Encyclopaedic dictionary of clothing and textiles. New Delhi: Mittal Publications. p. 479. ISBN   9788183242059.
  12. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 "Free patterns - Velvet". sewingtechnology.net. Archived from the original on 2011-02-23.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: unfit URL (link)
  13. 1 2 3 Schaeffer, Claire (2003). Sew Any Fabric: A Quick Reference to Fabrics from A to Z. Krause Publications. p. 129. ISBN   9781440220333.
  14. "Fabric Properties and Distinctions - Velvet". fabrics.net. Archived from the original on 2010-12-17.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: unfit URL (link)
  15. Denny, Grace Goldena (1947). Fabrics. J. B. Lippincott Company. p. 77. Panne or paon velvet. Finish on lightweight velvet. Pile laid flat in one direction.
  16. Rosalie Gilbert. "Rosalie's Medieval Woman".
  17. Phipps, Elena (2012). Looking at textiles: a guide to technical terms. Los Angeles, Calif.: J. Paul Getty Museum. p. 81. ISBN   9781606060803.
  18. Crowfoot, Elisabeth; Pritchard, Frances; Unwin, Kay Staniland; photography by Edwin Baker; illustrations by Christina (2006). Textiles and clothing, c.1150-c.1450 (New ed.). Woodbridge, Suffolk, UK: Boydell. p. 127. ISBN   9781843832393.
  19. Landl, Sheila (2012). Textile Conservator's Manual (2, revised ed.). Routledge. p. 199. ISBN   9781135145200.
  20. Strong Hillhouse, Marian (1963). Dress selection and design . Macmillan. p.  156. Chiffon velvet is also called "wedding ring velvet," because it is supposedly so light _and soft it can be pulled through a wedding ring.