Cabeza

Last updated
A taco stand advertising tacos de cabeza in Tijuana, Mexico Cabeza-tacos-2018.jpg
A taco stand advertising tacos de cabeza in Tijuana, Mexico

In Mexican cuisine, cabeza (lit. 'head'), from barbacoa de cabeza, is the meat from a roasted beef head, served as taco or burrito fillings. [1] [2] It typically refers to barbacoa de cabeza or beef-head barbacoa, an entire beef-head traditionally roasted in an earth oven, but now done in steamer or grill.

Contents

When sold in restaurants, customers may ask for particular parts of the body meats they favor, such as ojo (eye), oreja (ear), cachete (cheek), lengua (tongue), sesos (brains), or labios (lips).

History

A Barbacoa de Cabeza recipe from 1836, from the Mexican cookbook "Nuevo y Sencillo Arte de Cocina, Reposteria y Refrescos" by Antonia Carrillo. Receta Barbacoa de Cabeza (1836).jpg
A Barbacoa de Cabeza recipe from 1836, from the Mexican cookbook “Nuevo y Sencillo Arte de Cocina, Repostería y Refrescos” by Antonia Carrillo.

Barbacoa in Mexico, refers to the local indigenous variation of the primitive method of cooking in a pit or earth oven. [3] It generally refers to slow-cooking meats or whole sheep, whole cows, whole beef heads, or whole goats in a hole dug in the ground covered with agave (maguey) leaves, although the interpretation is loose, and in the present day (and in some cases) may refer to meat steamed until tender. This meat is known for its high fat content and strong flavor, often accompanied with onions and cilantro (coriander leaf).

The most common barbacoa prepared and consumed all across Mexico is barbacoa de res (beef barbacoa). In many regions, specially in southern Mexico and along the Gulf Coast, entire cow barbacoa is prepared. [4] But the most common, and one of the oldest, is barbacoa de cabeza, or beef-head barbacoa.

Barbacoa de cabeza, also known as Cabeza guateada in Argentina and Paraguay, consists in roasting an entire cow head, including tongue and brains, in an earth oven. After being cleaned and seasoned, the beef-head is wrapped either in maguey or banana leaves, or in a burlap sack. Then it is traditionally buried in a hole in the ground that had been previously prepared and heated with fire. The head will remain cooking in this natural oven for up to 15 hours.

Although now considered an unpleasant and unconventional cut of beef, eating beef or calf’s head was a mainstream and highly prized dish all across the Western World up until the early 20th century. [5] This typical dish made its way to the Americas, including the United States, and to Mexico where it was done in the traditional barbacoa.

Besides being a highly prized, mainstream dish, another reason why Barbacoa de cabeza was prepared in Mexico and South America was out of the need to use every part of the cow after slaughtering it for tasajo. In 18th and 19th century Mexico, and Latin America, most of the beef consumed was dried salted beef known as “tasajo”. [6] After slaughtering a cow, most of the flesh was salted and dried, with the exception of the lomo (loin, ribs), organs, and head. Typically, the lomo, ribs, and the organs, like the tripas, were roasted al pastor style (spit roasted), while the head was cooked in barbacoa. [7] Mexican folklorist and historian, Leopoldo Bello López, explains the process: [8]

“. . . an unbranded bull, about four years old, preferring death than losing its freedom, choked itself to death when it was lassoed. Without saying anything, three of the young vaqueros went to it to remove the hide, dismember it and bring it to camp. That night there would be a great feast: pieces of liver, kidneys and the loin on the spit over an open fire and the rest would be sliced and salted, and the head cooked in "barbacoa" in a hole made in the ground, that the next day would become a meal fit for kings.”

19th century recipes for Barbacoa de Cabeza are common and appear in many Mexican cookbooks of that time. In her cookbook —Nuevo y Sencillo Arte de Cocina, Repostería y Refrescos (1836)— Antonina Carrillo includes two barbacoa de cabeza recipes, one in which the head, after being seasoned, is wrapped with its own skin, and another one in which the skin is left on. [9] In Mariano Galvan Rivera’s —Diccionario de Cocina o el Nuevo Cocinero Mexicano en Forma de Diccionario (1845)— includes many recipes for barbacoa including one for barbacoa de cabeza. [10]

Folk History

An often repeated and unsubstantiated story among the Chicanos and Tejanos is that barbacoa de cabeza was invented in Texas, specifically in the South of the state, by Tejano vaqueros (cowboys) who were supposedly paid by their Anglo bosses by giving them the unwanted parts, the offal, of the slaughtered cattle, ignoring the fact that barbacoa de cabeza has a long history throughout Mexico and South America. The story holds that such items as the head, the entrails, and meat trimmings such as the skirt were the origin of not only dishes like barbacoa de cabeza (head barbecue), but also dishes such as menudo (tripe soup) and fajitas or arracheras (grilled skirt steak), which they also claim to have invented. [11] The hypothesis holds that such dishes were only known to South Texas, considering the limited number of heads, per carcass and the fact the meat was not available commercially, the barbacoa de cabeza tradition remained regional and relatively obscure for many years, probably familiar only to vaqueros, butchers, and their families.

Boiled calf's head and tongue, from the American cookbook "The American Home Cook Book" (1854). Beef head, tongue, sweetbreads, and brain, used to be a mainstream and highly prized dish in American cuisine. Boiled Calf's Head recipe (1854).jpg
Boiled calf’s head and tongue, from the American cookbook “The American Home Cook Book” (1854). Beef head, tongue, sweetbreads, and brain, used to be a mainstream and highly prized dish in American cuisine.

This story is extensively repeated and widely accepted by the American public, including scholars and writers. [12] Some even go so far as to claim that the rich Texas ranchers were starving the Tejano population to death. [13] But while it’s a widely accepted story, it has no evidence to support it. On the contrary, evidence shows that Tejanos were the ones giving away the calf heads and sweetbreads to Anglo-American and European arrivals to Texas in the 19th century as they themselves didn’t find them valuable. Auguste Fretelliere, a French colonist, remarked in 1843: [14]

. . . sweetbreads, calves' flesh and head not being appreciated by the Mexicans, they gave them to us for nothing.

Beef or calf heads, were actually once considered a mainstream and highly prized cut of beef and dish in the United States. Calf head recipes appear in many early mainstream American cookbooks, from American Cookery by Amelia Simmons [15] to The Virginia House-Wife by Mary Randolph, [16] to What Mrs. Fisher Knows About Old Southern Cooking by Abby Fisher. [17] So the assumption that Anglo Texas ranchers were giving away beef heads as payment because they found no value in them has no basis, considering that the opposite was true.

It also ignores the fact that such dishes have existed for a long time, not only throughout Mexico but also in South America. Menudo, for example, also exist in South America where it goes by Mondongo and Guatitas, since it was a dish brought from Spain where it’s known as Callos.

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mexican cuisine</span> Culinary traditions of Mexico

Mexican cuisine consists of the cooking cuisines and traditions of the modern country of Mexico. Its earliest roots lie in Mesoamerican cuisine. Its ingredients and methods begin with the first agricultural communities such as the Olmec and Maya who domesticated maize, created the standard process of nixtamalization, and established their foodways. Successive waves of other Mesoamerican groups brought with them their cooking methods. These included: the Teotihuacanos, Toltec, Huastec, Zapotec, Mixtec, Otomi, Purépecha, Totonac, Mazatec, Mazahua, and Nahua. With the Mexica formation of the multi-ethnic Triple Alliance, culinary foodways became infused.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Taco</span> Mexican filled tortilla dish

A taco is a traditional Mexican dish consisting of a small hand-sized corn- or wheat-based tortilla topped with a filling. The tortilla is then folded around the filling and eaten by hand. A taco can be made with a variety of fillings, including beef, pork, chicken, seafood, beans, vegetables, and cheese, and garnished with various condiments, such as salsa, guacamole, or sour cream, and vegetables, such as lettuce, onion, tomatoes, and chiles. Tacos are a common form of antojitos, or Mexican street food, which have spread around the world.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tex-Mex</span> Cuisine in the Southwestern United States and Northern Mexico

Tex-Mex cuisine is a regional American cuisine that originates from the culinary creations of Tejano people. It has spread from border states such as Texas and others in the Southwestern United States to the rest of the country. It is a subtype of Southwestern cuisine found in the American Southwest.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Enchilada</span> Corn tortilla rolled around a filling and covered with a sauce

An enchilada is a Mexican dish consisting of a corn tortilla rolled around a filling and covered with a savory sauce. Enchiladas can be filled with various ingredients, including meats, cheese, beans, potatoes, vegetables, or combinations. Enchilada sauces include chili-based sauces, such as salsa roja, various moles, tomatillo-based sauces, such as salsa verde, or cheese-based sauces, such as chile con queso.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Fajita</span> Tex–Mex dish

A fajita, in Tex-Mex cuisine, is any stripped grilled meat, optionally served with stripped peppers and onions usually served on a flour or corn tortilla. The term originally referred to skirt steak, the cut of beef first used in the dish. Popular alternatives to skirt steak include chicken and other cuts of beef, as well as vegetables instead of meat. In restaurants, the meat is usually cooked with onions and bell peppers. Popular condiments include shredded lettuce, sour cream, guacamole, salsa, pico de gallo, shredded cheese, refried beans, and diced tomatoes. "Tacos de arrachera" is applied to the northern Mexican variant of the dish.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Offal</span> Internal organs and entrails of a butchered animal

Offal, also called variety meats, pluck or organ meats, is the internal organs of a butchered animal. The word does not refer to a particular list of edible organs, and these lists of organs vary with culture and region, but usually exclude skeletal muscle. Offal may also refer to the by-products of milled grains, such as corn or wheat.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Menudo (soup)</span> Mexican soup

Menudo, also known as Mondongo, pancita or mole de panza, is a traditional Mexican soup, made with cow's stomach (tripe) in broth with a red chili pepper base. It is the Mexican variation of the Spanish callos or menudo. Similar dishes exist throughout Latin America and Europe including mondongo, guatitas, and in Italy Trippa alla romana.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Barbacoa</span> Style of cooked meat preparation originating in Latin America

Barbacoa or Asado en Barbacoa in Mexico, refers to the local indigenous variation of the primitive method of cooking in a pit or earth oven. It generally refers to slow-cooking meats or whole sheep, whole cows, whole beef heads, or whole goats in a hole dug in the ground, and covered with agave (maguey) leaves, although the interpretation is loose, and in the present day may refer to meat steamed until tender. This meat is known for its high fat content and strong flavor, often accompanied with onions and cilantro. Because this method of cooking was used throughout different regions by different ethnic groups or tribes in Mexico, each had their own name for it; for the Nahuatl it was called nakakoyonki; for the Mayan it was called píib; for the Otomi it was called thumngö.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">New Mexican cuisine</span> Cuisine originating from New Mexico

New Mexican cuisine is the cuisine of the Southwestern US state of New Mexico. The region is primarily known for its fusion of Pueblo Native American cuisine with Hispano Spanish and Mexican cuisine originating in Nuevo México. This Southwestern culinary style is popular beyond the current boundaries of New Mexico, and is found throughout the old territories of Nuevo México and the New Mexico Territory, today the state of Arizona, parts of Texas, and the southern portions of Colorado, Utah, and Nevada.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Carnitas</span> Mexican dish

Carnitas, literally meaning "little meats", in Mexican cuisine, is a dish made by braising, simmering and frying pork in its own fat, lard or cooking oil. The name “Carnitas” is, historically, the vulgar, colloquial name given in Mexico for the French dish Rillons de Tours also known in Spanish as Chicharrón de Tours.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Picadillo</span> Ground meat and tomato dish popular in Latin America and the Philippines

Picadillo is a traditional dish in many Latin American countries including Mexico and Cuba, as well as the Philippines. It is made with ground meat, tomatoes, and also raisins, olives, and other ingredients that vary by region. The name comes from the Spanish word picar, meaning "to mince".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Birria</span> Goat-based dish

Birria is a meat stew or soup, mainly made with goat or beef. The meat is marinated in an adobo made of vinegar, dried chiles, garlic, and herbs and spices before being cooked in a broth. Historically, birria was the regional name given in the state of Jalisco and surrounding areas to what is known as barbacoa, meats cooked or roasted in a pit or earth oven, in other regions of Mexico. For many people today, mostly in the United States, birria is now a distinct dish.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Beef tongue</span> Food made from cow tongue

Beef tongue is a cut of beef made of the tongue of a cow. It can be boiled, pickled, roasted or braised in sauce. It is found in many national cuisines, and is used for taco fillings in Mexico and for open-faced sandwiches in the United States. In France and Belgium it is served with Madeira sauce, while chrain is the preferred accompaniment in Ashkenazi and Eastern European cuisines. Germans make white roux with vinegar and capers, or horseradish cream, which is also popular in Polish cuisine.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Barbecue in Texas</span> Regional style of food preparation in the United States

Texas Barbecue refers to methods of preparation for barbecue unique to Texan cuisine. Beef brisket, pork ribs, and sausage are among the most commonly known dishes. The term can also include side dishes that are traditionally served alongside the smoked meats.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Texan cuisine</span> Food and drinks from Texas

Texan cuisine is the food associated with the Southern U.S. state of Texas, including its native Southwestern cuisine influenced Tex-Mex foods. Texas is a large state, and its cuisine has been influenced by a wide range of cultures, including Tejano/Mexican, Native American, Creole/Cajun, African-American, German, Czech, Southern and other European American groups. The cuisine of neighboring states also influences Texan cuisine, such as New Mexican cuisine and Louisiana Creole cuisine. This can be seen in the widespread usage of New Mexico chiles, Cayenne peppers, and Tabasco sauce in Texan cooking.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cuisine of Mexico City</span>

The cuisine of Mexico City encompasses a variety of cuisines. Restaurants specialize in the regional cuisines of Mexico's 31 states, and the city also has several branches of internationally recognized restaurants.

Vera's Backyard Bar-B-Que is a restaurant in Brownsville, Texas, United States. In 2020 it was named an America's Classic by the James Beard Foundation. According to Texas Monthly the restaurant was as of 2022 the only commercial entity in Texas serving barbacoa made with the traditional pit-smoking method.

References

  1. Hursh, Karen (2006-01-01). "Wrap It Up: A Guide To Mexican Street Tacos – Part I : Mexico Cuisine". Mexconnect.com. Retrieved 2011-12-20.
  2. "What's a Cabeza Taco?". Lodinews.com.
  3. Espinosa, Isidro Félix de (1746). Chronica Apostólica y Seraphica de todos los Colegios de Propaganda Fide de esta Nueva-España de Missioneros Franciscanos Observantes. Mexico: Viuda de D. Joseph Bernardo de Hogal. p. 470. Retrieved 5 May 2024.
  4. Martin, Luke. "Real Mexican BBQ "Barbacoa" - 100kg FULL COW Barbecue in Oaxaca Village!". YouTube. Retrieved 17 May 2024.
  5. Hughes, Glyn. "Calf's Head". The Foods of England. Retrieved 20 May 2024.
  6. Pfefferkorn, Ignaz (1990). Sonora: A Description of the Province. Tucson: University of Arizona Press. p. 100. ISBN   9780816511440 . Retrieved 5 May 2024.
  7. "De Cómo se Forma un Cazador". Aire Libre (37–39): 30, 33. 1935. Retrieved 20 May 2024.
  8. Bello López, Leopoldo (1990). Platícame algo de un Vaquero. Ciudad Victoria: Instituto Tamaulipeco de Cultura. p. 70. ISBN   9789686361186 . Retrieved 17 May 2024.
  9. Carrillo, Antonia (1836). Nuevo y Sencillo Arte de Cocina, Repostería y Refrescos. Mexico City: Imprenta de Santiago Perez. p. 217. Retrieved 17 May 2024.
  10. Galvan Rivera, Mariano (1845). Diccionario de Cocina o el Nuevo Cocinero Mexicano en Forma de Diccionario. Mexico City: Ignacio Cumplido. p. 68. Retrieved 20 May 2024.
  11. Wood, Virginia B. (March 4, 2005). "Fajita History". Austin Chronicle . Retrieved 2019-08-27.
  12. Ralat, José R. (2020). American Tacos. Austin, Texas: University of Texas Press. p. 83. ISBN   9781477321003 . Retrieved 20 May 2024.
  13. "KLRN Meet The Filmmakers Truly Texas Mexican". YouTube. KLRNTV. Retrieved 20 May 2024.
  14. de la Teja, Jesus F. (1998). "DISCOVERING THE TEJANO COMMUNITY IN "EARLY" TEXAS". JOURNAL OF THE EARLY REPUBLIC. 18 (1): 81. Retrieved 20 May 2024.
  15. Simmons, Amelia (1996). American Cookery. Bedford, Massachusetts: Applewood Books. p. 17. ISBN   9781557094391 . Retrieved 20 May 2024.
  16. Randolph, Mary (1836). The Virginia Housewife: Or, Methodical Cook. Baltimore: John Plaskitt. pp. 22, 38, 39, 40, 42. Retrieved 20 May 2024.
  17. Fisher, Abby (1881). What Mrs. Fisher Knows About Old Southern Cooking. San Francisco: Women's Co-operative Printing Office. pp. 18, 20, 21. Retrieved 20 May 2024.