American Woolen Company

Last updated

The American Woolen Company is a designer, manufacturer and distributor of men's and women's worsted and woolen fabrics. Based in Stafford Springs, Connecticut, the company operates from the 160-year-old Warren Mills, which it acquired from Loro Piana SpA in June 2014. [1]

Contents

History

Ayer Mill, Lawrence, Massachusetts Ayer Mill View.jpg
Ayer Mill, Lawrence, Massachusetts

1899-1950

The American Woolen Company was established in 1899 under the leadership of William M. Wood and his father-in-law Frederick Ayer through the consolidation of eight financially troubled New England woolen mills. At the company's height in the 1920s, it owned and operated 60 woolen mills across New England. It is most known for its role in the Lawrence Textile Strike of 1912.

The American Woolen Company was the product of the era of trusts. Overproduction, competition and poor management had brought the New England textile industry to its knees by the 1890s. In particular, family trusts, the main shareholders of many of the mills, insisted on receiving high dividends instead of making necessary capital improvements. Frederick Ayer, successful Lowell merchant, purchased the Washington Mills in Lawrence, Massachusetts, and hired his son-in-law, William M. Wood to run it. Wood had already successfully turned around a bankrupt mill in Fall River. With Ayer's financial backing, Wood brought together various under-performing mills in the aim of reducing competition and increasing prices. He convinced investors to permit profits to be reinvested into new plants and machinery.

Wood Mill, Lawrence Wood Mill Lawrence.jpg
Wood Mill, Lawrence

In 1901, the company purchased the failing Burlington Mills in Winooski, Vermont, and restored their profitability. These mills closed in 1954. [2]

In 1905, the American Woolen Company built the largest mill in the world, the Wood Mill in Lawrence, followed by the neighboring Ayer Mill in 1909. The Ayer mill's 22 foot diameter 4-sided clocktower is only a foot smaller than Big Ben and purportedly only second to it in size in the world (among chiming 4-sided clocktowers).

Following the 1912 Lawrence Textile Strike, the AWC was forced to increase wages. The company reached its apogee in the 1920s, when it controlled 20% of the country's woolen production. Most of these mill operations had started as 100% water-powered, but added coal-fueled steampower in the late 1800s as demand exceeded what could be provided by water alone. However, even though technology was continually updated, these unionized New England mills were unable to compete with non-unionized Southern mills able to produce staple woolen products, such as blankets, more cheaply. Additionally, fashions changed with the introduction of polyester and rayon, and demand for worsted wool plummeted by the mid-1920s. [3] The two world wars were a boon to the AWC, keeping the company prosperous into 1945. American Woolen Company ranked 51st among United States corporations in the value of World War II military production contracts. [4]

Workers housing

In 1902 the company built Presidential Village, a neighborhood of about 200 rental houses for workers at its mill in Maynard, Massachusetts. [5] All of the homes were auctioned to highest bidders in August 1934. The company was also auctioning housing at other New England mills. [6]

In the early 1920s American Woolen Company (re)built Shawsheen Village built on the site of the former Frye Village of Andover, Massachusetts, to house the company's middle to upper management, near the company headquarters.

1950-present

Following the end of the Korean War, government contracts ended. Virtually bankrupt, the American Woolen Co. was purchased by Textron and incorporated into its Amerotron division in 1955.

In 1966 an Uxbridge, Massachusetts-based, wool blanket contractor purchased the American Woolen Company trademark in order to better support its business activity of the manufacturing and distribution of woolen blankets for the American domestic market. In 1987, American Woolen sold its Uxbridge blanket manufacturing facility, relocated to Miami, Florida, and focused its activity on the importing and wholesaling of woolen blankets targeting relief organizations, municipalities, aid agencies and the general hospitality sector.

In 2013 an investment group led by Jacob Harrison Long completed the purchase, carve out and realignment of American Woolen Company's business activity with the intent to focus the company on the design and manufacture of fine American-made worsted and woolen apparel fabrics.

Warren Mills' primary building, 8 Furnace Avenue, American Woolen Company's headquarters DRA 4721 web.jpg
Warren Mills' primary building, 8 Furnace Avenue, American Woolen Company's headquarters

In June 2014, American Woolen purchased the Warren Mills complex from Italian luxury apparel group Loro Piana SpA, [7] which had owned and operated the mill for 26 years. Recognized as being "on par with the best mills in Europe," [1] Stafford Springs, Connecticut based Warren Mills is American Woolen Company's headquarters where the company produces worsted wool for men's suits and cashmere and camel hair for coats. The acquisition was made with the assistance of the Connecticut Department of Economic and Community Development, which provided American Woolen Company with a loan and a grant to help cover the building acquisition costs. The acquisition was made with the intent to "reintroduce luxury worsted and woolen textile manufacturing to the United States." [7]

Original Mills, some founded as early as 1846

American Woolen Company was created by the assimilation of the following mills, March 29, 1899: [8]

Later mills

[10]

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Plainfield, Connecticut</span> Town in Connecticut, United States

Plainfield is a town in Windham County, Connecticut, United States. The town is part of the Northeastern Connecticut Planning Region. The population was 14,973 at the 2020 census. The town comprises four villages: Plainfield, Moosup, Wauregan, and Central Village. Each village has their own respective United States Post Office and fire department. The entire town is serviced by the 860 area code.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Uxbridge, Massachusetts</span> Town in Massachusetts, United States

Uxbridge is a town in Worcester County, Massachusetts, United States, first colonized in 1662 and incorporated in 1727. It was originally part of the town of Mendon, and named for the Earl of Uxbridge. The town is located 36 mi (58 km) southwest of Boston and 15 mi (24 km) south-southeast of Worcester, at the midpoint of the Blackstone Valley National Historic Park. The historical society notes that Uxbridge is the "Heart of The Blackstone Valley" and is also known as "the Cradle of the Industrial Revolution". Uxbridge was a prominent Textile center in the American Industrial Revolution. Two Quakers served as national leaders in the American anti-slavery movement. Uxbridge "weaves a tapestry of early America".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hartland, Vermont</span> Town in Vermont, United States

Hartland is a town in Windsor County, Vermont, United States. The population was 3,446 at the 2020 census. It includes the villages of Hartland, Hartland Four Corners, and North Hartland.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Worsted</span> Fabrics manufactured from worsted yarns

Worsted is a high-quality type of wool yarn, the fabric made from this yarn, and a yarn weight category. The name derives from Worstead, a village in the English county of Norfolk. That village, together with North Walsham and Aylsham, formed a manufacturing centre for yarn and cloth in the 12th century, when pasture enclosure and liming rendered the East Anglian soil too rich for the older agrarian sheep breeds. In the same period, many weavers from the County of Flanders moved to Norfolk. "Worsted" yarns/fabrics are distinct from woollens : the former is considered stronger, finer, smoother, and harder than the latter.

A mill town, also known as factory town or mill village, is typically a settlement that developed around one or more mills or factories, often cotton mills or factories producing textiles.

Pendleton Woolen Mills is an American textile manufacturing company based in Portland, Oregon, United States. It is known for its blankets and woolen clothing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">North Star Woolen Mill</span> United States historic place

The North Star Woolen Mill, now the North Star Lofts, is a building in downtown Minneapolis, Minnesota, United States. The building, located in the St. Anthony Falls Historic District, was originally a textile mill for the North Star Woolen Company. The mill was built in 1864 by W.W. Eastman and Paris Gibson on the west side of the west side canal. High quality wool blankets, scarves, flannels, and yarns were manufactured at the facility and it became the nation's largest manufacturer of wool blankets by 1925.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Oliver Chace</span> American businessman

Oliver Chace was an American 18th and 19th-century businessman. He was the founder of several New England textile manufacturing companies in the early 19th century, including the Valley Falls Company, the original antecedent of Berkshire Hathaway, which as of 2019 is one of the largest and most valuable companies in the world.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bernat Mill</span> Yarn mill in Uxbridge, Massachusetts, U.S.

The Bernat Mill, also known as Capron Mill, and later Bachman Uxbridge Worsted Company, was an American yarn mill in Uxbridge, Massachusetts, that was for the most part destroyed by fire on July 21, 2007.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Daniel Day (manufacturer)</span> American textile manufacturer (1767–1848)

Daniel Day was an American pioneer in woolen manufacturing.

The Eastern League was a Minor League Baseball sports league that operated from 1916 through mid-season of 1932. The successor to an early 20th-century edition of the New England League, it was not related to two other like-named leagues: an earlier Eastern League founded in 1884 that was absorbed into the International League, and a later Eastern League that began as the New York–Pennsylvania League in 1923.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Frederick Ayer</span> American businessman

Frederick Ayer was an American businessman and the younger brother of patent medicine tycoon James Cook Ayer.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Assabet Woolen Mill</span> Historic building complex in Maynard, Massachusetts

The Assabet Woolen Mill was originally a textile factory complex founded by Amory Maynard in 1847 near the Assabet River in the northern part of what was then Sudbury, Massachusetts. The area became the Town of Maynard in 1871. The business went bankrupt in 1898, but reopened in 1899 as part of the American Woolen Company, which expanded it. The mill ceased operation as a woolen mill in 1950. The buildings were later repurposed by Digital Equipment Corporation (DEC) as its corporate headquarters. As of 2015, the facility is host to various small business as "Mill & Main". See Maynard, Massachusetts for further details regarding the use of the dozen or so mill buildings.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Winooski Falls Mill District</span> Historic district in Vermont, United States

The Winooski Falls Mill District is located along the Winooski River in the cities of Winooski and Burlington, Vermont, in the United States of America. It encompasses a major industrial area that developed around two sets of falls on the river in the 19th century.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hilgen and Wittenberg Woolen Mill</span> Former textile mill in Cedarburg, Wisconsin

The Hilgen and Wittenberg Woolen Mill is a former textile factory in Cedarburg, Wisconsin. Built in 1864, the mill was one of many wool- and flax-processing factories that opened during the American Civil War, due to a shortage of cotton textiles formerly supplied by southern states. The mill produced yarns, blankets, and flannels, and was the largest woolen mill west of Philadelphia in the 19th century. The mill closed in 1968 and has since become a commercial complex called the "Cedar Creek Settlement," containing restaurants and stores.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Darius Goff</span> American politician

Darius Goff was one of the foremost textile manufacturers in the United States and a leading citizen of Pawtucket, Rhode Island. He is known for introducing the manufacture of worsted braids and mohair plush upholstery into the United States.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">C. R. Makepeace & Company</span>

C. R. Makepeace & Company, established in 1889, was a nationally active firm of mill architects based in Providence, Rhode Island. It was dissolved in 1944.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Amory Maynard</span>

Amory Maynard (1804–1890) was a textile manufacturer who was the namesake of Maynard, Massachusetts.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Farr Alpaca Company</span>

The Farr Alpaca Company was a Canadian and subsequently American textile manufacturer specializing in alpaca and mohair worsted woolen products. Established initially in 1864 as the Randall Farr Company in Hespeler, Ontario, the company was subsequently moved to Holyoke, Massachusetts to avoid tariffs brought on by the Wool and Woolens Act of 1867, and was established as the Farr Alpaca Company in 1874. The Farr family managed to build the company into a dominant brand in the woolen goods market in large part by relying on secrecy; rather than patenting machinery, the company would make use of machine shops with familial ties in the city, paying laborers well and keeping knowledge of components limited across units, such that no one worker could completely duplicate their processes. By the beginning of the 20th century the company had the largest alpaca woolen mill in the world and was a dominant producer in its industry. Unable to adapt to a changing market, the company eventually ceased production in 1939, and was formally dissolved by 1942. The company is remembered today for its role in the creation of the first professional soccer league in the United States the American Soccer League, as its Farr Alpaca F.C. served as a direct predecessor to the Holyoke Falcos, one of the league's founding teams.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Horace Riviere</span> Union organizer in the 1920s and 30s

Horace A. Riviere (1887–1942) was an influential labor leader as the 4th Vice President of the Textile Workers Union of America and head of the New England district of the United Textile Workers of America during a crucial period in American industrial history. Known for his dedication to improving working conditions, advocating for labor rights, and championing the cause of textile workers, Riviere played a pivotal role in shaping the labor movement in the early to mid-20th century...

References

  1. 1 2 Lee, Mara (2014-06-20). "Warren of Stafford, 160-year-old Textile Mill, To Re-Open". Hartford Courant. Archived from the original on June 24, 2014. Retrieved 2018-03-29.
  2. Krawitt, Laura, ed. (2000). The Mills at Winooski Falls: Winooski and Burlington, Vermont (First ed.). Winooski, Vt.: Onion River Press. ISBN   9780965714440.
  3. Frederick Zappalla, "A Financial History of the American Woolen Company". (MBA Thesis, University of Pennsylvania, 1947)
  4. Peck, Merton J. & Scherer, Frederic M. The Weapons Acquisition Process: An Economic Analysis (1962) Harvard Business School p.619
  5. Park, Edwin (13 May 1909). "Maynard's Fate Hangs on Tariff: Largest Woolen Mill in World Within Its Borders". Boston Globe. ProQuest   501250227.
  6. "Great Auction of 1932". Hartland Historical Society. Retrieved April 23, 2024.
  7. 1 2 "Connecticut wool mill to reopen under new owner". WTNH Connecticut News. 2014-06-20. Retrieved 2018-03-29.
  8. "A sketch of the mills of the American woolen company - American Woolen Company - Google Boeken". American Woolen Company. 1977-01-01. Retrieved 2012-06-12.
  9. January 1992, "Development of the Assabet Mills in 19th Century Maynard," John R. Mullin, University of Massachusetts - Amherst, Landscape Architecture & Regional Planning Faculty Publication Series http://scholarworks.umass.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1039&context=larp_faculty_pubs
  10. American Woolen Company mills, by American Woolen Company (Publisher Boston, Mass., American Woolen Company)(1921)