Armenian Lace

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18th century Armenian lace cover, Honolulu Academy of Art Cover, Armenia, 18th century, Linen, silk, plain weave, embroidery (cross stitch), drawnwork lace, Honolulu Academy of Arts.jpg
18th century Armenian lace cover, Honolulu Academy of Art

Armenian lace is the lacemaking tradition of the Armenian people. Due to the material's accessibility, the simple tools required, and the wide means of artistic expression, it has remained popular among the Armenian people. [1]

Contents

Armenian cotton lace, Auckland War Memorial Museum, New Zealand Mat, lace (AM 580941-5).jpg
Armenian cotton lace, Auckland War Memorial Museum, New Zealand

Although white is the dominant color in Armenian lace, colored lace does exist in relation to national costume.

Samples of Armenian lace have been preserved in private collections and in various museums around the world.

History

19th century cotton woven lace, Los Angeles County Museum of Art Unfinished Sample of Knotted Lace LACMA M.83.97.5 (1 of 2).jpg
19th century cotton woven lace, Los Angeles County Museum of Art

Armenian lacemaking is thought to date back to before the 15th or 16th centuries. Although no textiles are preserved from that time, lacemaking seems to be referenced in some stone sculptures, especially khachkars, which look like delicate swatches of lace. [2] [3] Arab historians of the 10th century, listing the occupations of the Armenian people, mentioned handicrafts, headscarves, blankets, which were apparently related to lace. [2]  

It is believed that gold thread, silver thread, silk thread and pearl braided laces were known in a number of Asian countries earlier than in Europe (13th century). [4]

Applications

19th century Armenian lace, cotton, silk, Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum, New York Panel (Armenia), 19th century (CH 18563883-2).jpg
19th century Armenian lace, cotton, silk, Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum, New York

Armenian lace-making is quite similar to other branches of decorative-applied arts, and its designs share many similarities with khachkar, including the symmetry of their designs, richness and diversity of ornaments, and stylistic unity. [3]

Tablecloths, curtains, blankets, ribbons of various bochchas, handkerchiefs, headscarves, as well as collars and various household items (comb bowls, button, handkerchief pockets, etc.) were made using lace weaving. The "rose" on the forehead, which was a part of head decorations of the Upper Armenia women's costume, is worthy of attention. It was woven with a needle, multi-colored silk threads, combined patterns of small flowers and leaves. The white, silk lace suspenders with lily patterns of the Cilicia-Armenian women's costume are of interest. [5] In Karin (Erzurum), Van, Baghesh, women wove the laces of their foreheads, the edges of yapush, and yazmans. [6]  In the decoration of the head of the Armenian women's costume of Karin, not only silk threads were used, but also mother-of-pearl laces, which were sometimes woven with gold threads. Ribbon-shaped mesh pearl braided laces were hung on the temples and used as necklaces. Lace tablecloths and curtains were popular in Shatakh.

Varieties

Armenian lace ArmenianNeedlelace.jpg
Armenian lace

The types of lace got their names from the historical states of Armenia. There are known Aintap drawn thread work, Vaspurakan lace, Urfa darning, Sebastia khachkar, Edessia suzan, Marash blind stitch, Marash darning  and other types.

There were two types of lace in Constantinople; needle stitched with colorful threads, oya and upholstery needle, woven with ghasan and crochet hook. Veil lace was popular as a head decoration in Shamakhi. The veil was knitted on the loop with a needle and a crochet needle made of silk thread. After knitting they were boilted with soap. [7]

Marash laces are sewn with two different types of needleworks; one was a unique flat stitch, known as the handle-needle and Zeitoun stitch, and the other was a woven stitch.

In the Armenian settlements of Cilicia, along with other types of lace, loop-knot laces were common.

Geographic spread

Lacemaking was widespread in almost all provinces of Armenia.  In the 19th century, Van-Vaspurakan, Upper Armenia (Karin, Kars, Alexandropol, Akhaltskhan, Akhalkalak), Cilicia (Aintap, Marash, Urfa), Lesser Hayk (Sebastian, Kesaria, Arabkir, etc.), K. Polis, Tiflis.

After the First World War and the Armenian genocide, lace business spread to a number of Arabian countries, Greece, France, and the United States. The geographical spread of Armenian lace also included a number of Armenian-populated places in Asia, Africa as well as Crimea.

Patterns of 20th century Armenian lacework, Regional History Museum of Sofia.

Related Research Articles

Crochet is a process of creating textiles by using a crochet hook to interlock loops of yarn, thread, or strands of other materials. The name is derived from the French term croc, which means 'hook'. Hooks can be made from a variety of materials, such as metal, wood, bamboo, bone or even plastic. The key difference between crochet and knitting, beyond the implements used for their production, is that each stitch in crochet is completed before the next one is begun, while knitting keeps many stitches open at a time. Some variant forms of crochet, such as Tunisian crochet and broomstick lace, do keep multiple crochet stitches open at a time.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Knitting</span> Method of forming fabric

Knitting is a method for production of textile fabrics by interlacing yarn loops with loops of the same or other yarns. It is used to create many types of garments. Knitting may be done by hand or by machine.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tatting</span> Craft of making lace with loops and knots using a small shuttle

Tatting is a technique for handcrafting a particularly durable lace from a series of knots and loops. Tatting can be used to make lace edging as well as doilies, collars, accessories such as earrings, necklaces, waist beads, and other decorative pieces. The lace is formed by a pattern of rings and chains formed from a series of cow hitch or half-hitch knots, called double stitches, over a core thread. Gaps can be left between the stitches to form picots, which are used for practical construction as well as decorative effect.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Drawn thread work</span> Creative textile work

Drawn thread work is one of the earliest forms of open work embroidery, and has been worked throughout Europe. Originally it was often used for ecclesiastical items and to ornament shrouds. It is a form of counted-thread embroidery based on removing threads from the warp and/or the weft of a piece of even-weave fabric. The remaining threads are grouped or bundled together into a variety of patterns. The more elaborate styles of drawn thread work use a variety of other stitches and techniques, but the drawn thread parts are their most distinctive element. It is also grouped with whitework embroidery because it was traditionally done in white thread on white fabric and is often combined with other whitework techniques.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Lace</span> Openwork fabric, patterned with open holes in the work, made by machine or by hand

Lace is a delicate fabric made of yarn or thread in an open weblike pattern, made by machine or by hand. Generally, lace is split into two main categories, needlelace and bobbin lace, although there are other types of lace, such as knitted or crocheted lace. Other laces such as these are considered as a category of their specific craft. Knitted lace, therefore, is an example of knitting. This article considers both needle lace and bobbin lace.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Crocheted lace</span>

Crochet lace is an application of the art of crochet. Generally it uses finer threads and more decorative styles of stitching, often with flowing lines or scalloped edges to give interest. Variation of the size of the holes also gives a piece a "lacy" look.

Needlepoint is a type of canvas work, a form of embroidery in which yarn is stitched through a stiff open weave canvas. Traditionally needlepoint designs completely cover the canvas. Although needlepoint may be worked in a variety of stitches, many needlepoint designs use only a simple tent stitch and rely upon color changes in the yarn to construct the pattern. Needlepoint is the oldest form of canvas work.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Broomstick lace</span>

Broomstick lace, also known as jiffy lace and peacock eye crochet, is a historic crochet technique from the 19th century made using a crochet hook and another long slender item such as a knitting needle. Traditionally a broomstick was used, hence the name, but the modern variant is a lightweight plastic knitting needle or smooth wooden craft dowel. A larger knitting needle or dowel will result in a lacier effect, while a smaller will provide a more closely woven effect. The technique is used to make clothing, blankets, and other crocheted items. In most crochet techniques, each stitch is finished before beginning the next. Broomstick lace is different; like in knitting and Tunisian crochet, many stitches are left open for broomstick lace.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sewing needle</span> Needle with hole to hold thread for sewing

A sewing needle, used for hand-sewing, is a long slender tool with a pointed tip at one end and a hole to hold the sewing thread. The earliest needles were made of bone or wood; modern needles are manufactured from high carbon steel wire and are nickel- or 18K gold-plated for corrosion resistance. High-quality embroidery needles are plated with two-thirds platinum and one-third titanium alloy. Traditionally, needles have been kept in needle books or needlecases which have become objects of adornment. Sewing needles may also be kept in an étui, a small box that held needles and other items such as scissors, pencils and tweezers.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Shawl</span> Simple item of clothing, loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms

A shawl is a simple item of clothing, loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. It is usually a rectangular piece of cloth, but can also be square or triangular in shape. Other shapes include oblong shawls. It is associated with the inhabitants of the northern Indian subcontinent—particularly Kashmir and Punjab—and Central Asia, but can be found in many other parts of the world.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Darning</span> Sewing technique for repairing holes or worn areas in fabric or knitting using needle and thread

Darning is a sewing technique for repairing holes or worn areas in fabric or knitting using needle and thread alone. It is often done by hand, but using a sewing machine is also possible. Hand darning employs the darning stitch, a simple running stitch in which the thread is "woven" in rows along the grain of the fabric, with the stitcher reversing direction at the end of each row, and then filling in the framework thus created, as if weaving. Darning is a traditional method for repairing fabric damage or holes that do not run along a seam, and where patching is impractical or would create discomfort for the wearer, such as on the heel of a sock.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Armenian needlelace</span>

Armenian needlelace is a pure form of needle lace made using only a needle, thread and pair of scissors.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Point de Gaze</span>

Point de Gaze is a needle lace from Belgium named for the gauze-like appearance of the mesh ground. It was made from the early to mid 1800s to sometime between 1914 and the 1930s.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ñandutí</span>

Ñandutí is a traditional Paraguayan lace. The name means "spider web" in Guaraní, the official, indigenous language of Paraguay.

The manufacture of textiles is one of the oldest of human technologies. To make textiles, the first requirement is a source of fiber from which a yarn can be made, primarily by spinning. The yarn is processed by knitting or weaving, which turns yarn into cloth. The machine used for weaving is the loom. For decoration, the process of colouring yarn or the finished material is dyeing. For more information of the various steps, see textile manufacturing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Armenian dress</span> Armenian traditional clothing

The Armenian Taraz, also known as Armenian traditional clothing, reflects a rich cultural tradition. Wool and fur were utilized by the Armenians along with the cotton that was grown in the fertile valleys. During the Urartian period, silk imported from China was used by royalty. Later, the Armenians cultivated silkworms and produced their own silk.

Sewing is the craft of fastening or attaching objects using stitches made with needle and thread. Sewing is one of the oldest of the textile arts, arising in the Paleolithic Era. Although usually associated with clothing and household linens, sewing is used in a variety of crafts and industries, including shoemaking, upholstery, sailmaking, bookbinding and the manufacturing of some kinds of sporting goods. Sewing is the fundamental process underlying a variety of textile arts and crafts, including embroidery, tapestry, quilting, appliqué and patchwork.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Greek lace</span> Early form of lace

Greek lace is considered one of the earliest forms of all lace. Some types of Greek lace include reticella, Roman lace, cutwork, Venetian guipure, and Greek point lace

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Maltese lace</span> Type of guipure bobbin lace from Malta

Maltese lace is a style of bobbin lace made in Malta. It is a guipure style of lace. It is worked as a continuous width on a tall, thin, upright lace pillow. Bigger pieces are made of two or more parts sewn together.

Armenian medieval sculpture is first of all the monumental sculpture that decorates churches and martyries. Free-standing monuments, such as four-sided stelae and khachkars (crossstones) are also rich in sculptures. The popularity of sculpture in the Armenian medieval art was due to midis- a three-layer layout of stones, when two rows of hewn stones were joined with lime mortar, and the surface got an artistic treatment.

References

  1. Դավթյան, Սերիկ (1966). Հայկական ժանյակ[Armenian lace] (in Armenian). Երևան: Հայկական ՍՍՀ ԳԱ Հրատարակչություն. p. 7.
  2. 1 2 Դավթյան, Սերիկ (1966). Հայկական ժանյակ[Armenian lace] (in Armenian). Երևան: Հայկական ՍՍՀ ԳԱ Հրատարակչություն. p. 9.
  3. 1 2 Դավթյան, Սերիկ (1966). Հայկական ժանյակ[Armenian lace] (in Armenian). Երևան: Հայկական ՍՍՀ ԳԱ Հրատարակչություն. p. 10.
  4. Работникова, И. Н. (1956). Русское народное кружево[Russian folk lace] (in Russian). Москва.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link)
  5. "Knitting, embroidery". folkartcenter.am. Archived from the original on 2020-01-24.
  6. Դավթյան, Սերիկ (1966). Հայկական ժանյակ[Armenian lace] (in Armenian). Երևան: Հայկական ՍՍՀ ԳԱ Հրատարակչություն. p. 11.
  7. Թառայանց, Ս (1898). Հայ ժողովրդի արհեստագործությունը[The craftsmanship of the Armenian people] (in Armenian). Թիֆլիս. pp. 35–36.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link)