They are part of the local shepherding tradition, as it entails the consumption of mutton or sheep meat. Although their preparation became widespread throughout the region, they are originally from the area located south-east of the Gran Sasso d’Italia mountain between the provinces of L’Aquila, Teramo and Pescara.[6][7] As a result of emigration outside of the region, arrosticini are now also part of the culinary tradition of the region of Liguria.[8]
History
Arrosticini belong to the culinary tradition of settled pastoralism and transhumance, a practice that was very common in the region of Abruzzo until the beginning of agricultural mechanization in the 20th century. [9] Legend has it that the dish was invented in 1830 by two shepherds who, trying to minimize food waste, cut up sheep meat into small pieces, making sure to also get the meat around the bones. They then stacked them on skewers made with sticks from local plants and cooked them on a brazier. Although this cooking method was meant to make meat scraps more appetizing, it soon became used for other cuts of meat.[7]
Nowadays, arrosticini are also eaten outside of Abruzzo and they can even be found in supermarkets.
Types
An arrosticino generally weights between 20 and 30 grams. [3]
The most widespread (but not traditional) type of arrosticini comes in a uniform shape, as they are made by stacking meat cubes of 1 cm per side on a 20 cm long wooden skewer (generally birch or bamboo).
Other widespread variations are made with irregular knife-cut pieces of meat stacked with alternating pieces of lean meat and pieces sheep fat, in order to make the arrosticino more tender and fragrant. However, for this preparation to be as good as possible, it is necessary to use high quality meat that can go through a longer cooking time.
Traditionally, this dish should only be prepared using sheep meat, preferably wether (a male sheep that has been castrated between six months and 2 years of age, or a young female one that has not given birth yet). However, since this dish does not have a PDO status, multiple variants that include other kinds of meat and different cooking methods exist, as a consequence of its spread around Abruzzo and in other regions. [10]
In the Pescara Valley “arrosticini di fect” (liver arrosticini) are common. This type is prepared by stacking pieces of liver (possibly sheep liver) and pieces of fat. A different variant also includes thin slices of onion and occasionally bell pepper and bay leaves.[9]
In stores it is possible to buy products called “arrosticini”, despite the use of pork, beef, chicken or more rarely rabbit meat.
Preparation
The preparation of arrosticini requires the meat to be stored in cold cells for three to seven days to undergo a process of maturation and acidification. The meat is then cut into small pieces to be stacked on a skewer and cooked on wood embers, normally using a brazier with a characteristic elongated shape called “fornacella”, “furnacella”, “rustillire”, “canala” or “canalina”, depending on the local dialect. The specific shape, which recalls that of a gutter, is meant to channel a high temperature under the meat, while the exposed ends of the skewer stay at room temperature to avoid getting burnt. The meat is generally only seasoned with salt during cooking.[7]
The cooking method, type of grill used, temperature of the coal and constant care from the cook highly influence the quality of arrosticini. They can be cooked and salted to preference, as long as the meat does not dry out. Arrosticini can also be cooked on electric grills, but the results in terms of tase are quite different than the traditional way of cooking them. Cooking them in the oven or on a pan should be avoided, as the meat would not come out as tender and well cooked.
Pairing and traditional consumption habits
Arrosticini are usually eaten with grilled slices of homemade bread and paired with red wines generally obtained from the Montepulciano grape variety, and mostly Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. [7]
As they are very easy to cook outdoors, arrosticini are often considered a kind of street food. [11]
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