Dress hook

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Dress hook
Post-medieval , Dress hook (FindID 190488) front rotated.jpg
Front view
Post-medieval , Dress hook (FindID 190488) back rotated.jpg
Back view
Silver-gilt three-lobed dress hook with silver ornament, 16th century, found in the East Riding of Yorkshire.
A Young Englishwoman, a costume study by Hans Holbein the Younger, showing dress hooks used to tuck up a gown. Young Englishwoman, costume study by Hans Holbein the Younger.jpg
A Young Englishwoman, a costume study by Hans Holbein the Younger, showing dress hooks used to tuck up a gown.
"Weeper" with dress hooks. Detail of monument in Church of St Mary the Virgin, Fawsley. Monument to Sir Richard Knightley and his wife Jane, St Mary's Church, Fawsley (detail 2).jpg
"Weeper" with dress hooks. Detail of monument in Church of St Mary the Virgin, Fawsley.

A dress hook is a decorative clothing accessory of the medieval and Tudor periods used to fasten outer garments or to drape up skirts. Made of base metal or precious silver and silver-gilt, dress hooks are documented in wills and inventories, and surviving hooks have been identified in the archaeological record throughout England. [1] [2] [3]

Contents

"Dress hook" is the modern specialist terminology. In historical records, these items are referred to simply as "hooks", and context may be needed to differentiate them from hook-and-eye closures, which were also used in large quantities, in both base and precious metals, in the 15th and 16th centuries. [1]

Usage

Documentary evidence suggests that dress hooks were often owned in pairs. Dress hooks were used to draw up skirts, either to keep them out of the muck of the street or to display the rich fabric of the garment beneath, and may also have been used to fasten garments or simply as decoration. [1] [2] [3] At the time of her death in 1509, the jewellery of Lady Margaret Beaufort included "ij [2] hookys siluer vpon a rybande for the Tuckyng of a gown". [3] A drawing of a young Englishwoman, probably a merchant's wife, by Hans Holbein the Younger shows skirts caught up with hooks in this manner. The drawing is dated to the late 1520s or early 1530s. [1] [4]

Study and classification

Dress hooks were little studied until the UK Treasure Act of 1996 required the examination and assessment of such small objects when made of precious metals. A seminal cross-disciplinary study of silver-gilt dress hooks in the Journal of the Society of Antiquaries of London in 2002 [1] identified three broad classes of dress hooks:

Similar items include the twisted-wire double-ended dress fasteners of the Medieval period and late Medieval and Tudor cap hooks.

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References

  1. 1 2 3 4 5 Gaimster, David; Hayward, Maria; Mitchell, David; Parker, Karen (2002). "Tudor Silver-Gilt Dress-hooks: A New Class of Treasure Find in England". The Antiquaries Journal. 82: 157–196. doi:10.1017/S0003581500073777. ISSN   0003-5815. S2CID   161564261.
  2. 1 2 Johnson, Caroline (2011-12-01). The Queen's Servants: Gentlewomen's Dress at the Accession of Henry VIII. Jane Malcolm-Davies, Ninya Mikhaila (eds.). Lightwater, Surrey England: Fat Goose Press Ltd. p. 32. ISBN   9780956267412.
  3. 1 2 3 Hayward, Maria (2007). Dress at the Court of King Henry VIII. Leeds, UK: Maney. p. 252. ISBN   978-1905981410.
  4. Foister, Susan (2007). Holbein in England (1 ed.). London : New York: Tate. p. 110. ISBN   9781854376459.

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