Garot | |
Korean name | |
---|---|
Hangul | 갈옷/ 갈중이 |
Revised Romanization | garot / galjungi |
McCune–Reischauer | karot /kalchungi |
Garot or galjungi is a variety of hanbok,Korean traditional clothing,which has been worn by locals of Jeju Island in Korea as a working clothes and everyday dress. [1] Although there is no historical record on its origin,it is known that Jeju farmers and fishermen have worn it for a long time. According to a research on Jeju traditional tools,about 700 years ago Jeju people used fishing lines which were dyed by unripe persimmons., [2] because it was much stronger than undyed one. They might have come up with the idea that persimmon dying could make cotton stronger,so they might have started to dye it. Gal (갈) comes from gam (감) which means persimmon in Korean,and ot (옷) means clothes in Korean. Therefore,garot refers to clothes dyed by persimmons,especially unripe persimmons.
According to Natural coloring that we have to know, [3] various tones of black or brown colors can be obtained from dye made by unripe persimmon. To make high-quality garot,much time and effort is required. First,hard unripe persimmons should be cleaned and smashed using a wooden mortar. Next,fabric should be soaked evenly in unripe persimmon pulp,and it is then massaged in the juice of unripe persimmons. Then,after removing down small fragments of persimmon,the fabric should be laid on the grass and dried under the sun without wrinkles,otherwise the color will be uneven. It is turned over to allow the opposite side to dry. After that,it should be soaked in water and be dried again under the sun. It needs to be dried and soaked in water twice a day for 7 to 10 days. The longer it stays in the sun,the deeper the color it has. This procedure will give a dark brown color. If the color should be lighter than brown,it is better to add some water in persimmon juice and soak the fabric in it at first time. If the color should be dark and thick brown,it can be soaked in a light solution of persimmon at second time instead of water. Or it can get black color if it is soaked in iron oxide solution for a second time. So the color of garot depends on the catalyzer—limewater,iron oxide solution,vinegar—,water,and the amount of sunshine.
Garot has come into the spotlight as healthful and convenient clothing. It has moth proof,waterproof,antimicrobial properties. Also Gal-ot prevents putrefaction,so it doesn't rot if stored in damp conditions. The thick,dense wave can help protect against sharp environmental hazards,such as splinters or thorns. Furthermore,it has been regarded as the best work clothing by residents of Jeju. In addition,even though Jeju's weather in summer is very humid,hot,and rainy,garot doesn't cling to the body when wet. Therefore,approximately 85% of the islanders wear garot in summer work conditions. [4] Due to antimicrobial properties,detergent is not needed when washing. In addition,it doesn't wrinkle easily,so it is regarded as "wash and wear" clothing. [5]
A dye is a colored substance that chemically bonds to the substrate to which it is being applied. This distinguishes dyes from pigments which do not chemically bind to the material they color. Dye is generally applied in an aqueous solution and may require a mordant to improve the fastness of the dye on the fiber.
Tie-dye is a term used to describe a number of resist dyeing techniques and the resulting dyed products of these processes. The process of tie-dye typically consists of folding,twisting,pleating,or crumpling fabric or a garment,before binding with string or rubber bands,followed by the application of dye or dyes. The manipulations of the fabric before the application of dye are called resists,as they partially or completely prevent ('resist') the applied dye from coloring the fabric. More sophisticated tie-dye may involve additional steps,including an initial application of dye before the resist,multiple sequential dyeing and resist steps,and the use of other types of resists and discharge.
Sulfur dyes are the most commonly used dyes manufactured for cotton in terms of volume. They are inexpensive,generally have good wash-fastness,and are easy to apply. Sulfur dyes are predominantly black,brown,and dark blue. Red sulfur dyes are unknown,although a pink or lighter scarlet color is available.
Hypercolor was a line of clothing,mainly T-shirts and shorts,that changed color with heat.
Dyeing is the application of dyes or pigments on textile materials such as fibers,yarns,and fabrics with the goal of achieving color with desired color fastness. Dyeing is normally done in a special solution containing dyes and particular chemical material. Dye molecules are fixed to the fiber by absorption,diffusion,or bonding with temperature and time being key controlling factors. The bond between the dye molecule and fiber may be strong or weak,depending on the dye used. Dyeing and printing are different applications;in printing,color is applied to a localized area with desired patterns. In dyeing,it is applied to the entire textile.
The hanbok is a traditional clothing of the Korean people. The term hanbok is primarily used by South Koreans;North Koreans refer to the clothes as chosŏn-ot. The clothes are also worn in the Korean diaspora,especially by Koreans in China.
Acrylic fibers are synthetic fibers made from a polymer (polyacrylonitrile) with an average molecular weight of ~100,000,about 1900 monomer units. For a fiber to be called "acrylic" in the US,the polymer must contain at least 85% acrylonitrile monomer. Typical comonomers are vinyl acetate or methyl acrylate. DuPont created the first acrylic fibers in 1941 and trademarked them under the name Orlon. It was first developed in the mid-1940s but was not produced in large quantities until the 1950s. Strong and warm,acrylic fiber is often used for sweaters and tracksuits and as linings for boots and gloves,as well as in furnishing fabrics and carpets. It is manufactured as a filament,then cut into short staple lengths similar to wool hairs,and spun into yarn.
Bògòlanfini or bogolan is a handmade Malian cotton fabric traditionally dyed with fermented mud. It has an important place in traditional Malian culture and has,more recently,become a symbol of Malian cultural identity. The cloth is exported worldwide for use in fashion,fine art and decoration.
Kermes is a red dye derived from the dried bodies of the females of a scale insect in the genus Kermes,primarily Kermes vermilio. The Kermes insects are native in the Mediterranean region and are parasites living on the sap of the host plant,the Kermes oak and the Palestine oak.
In textile manufacturing,finishing refers to the processes that convert the woven or knitted cloth into a usable material and more specifically to any process performed after dyeing the yarn or fabric to improve the look,performance,or "hand" (feel) of the finish textile or clothing. The precise meaning depends on context.
On Colors is a treatise attributed to Aristotle but sometimes ascribed to Theophrastus or Strato. The work outlines the theory that all colors are derived from mixtures of black and white. On colors had a pronounced impact on subsequent color theories and remained influential until Isaac Newton's experiments with light refraction.
Natural dyes are dyes or colorants derived from plants,invertebrates,or minerals. The majority of natural dyes are vegetable dyes from plant sources—roots,berries,bark,leaves,and wood—and other biological sources such as fungi.
Dyeing is the craft of imparting colors to textiles in loose fiber,yarn,cloth or garment form by treatment with a dye. Archaeologists have found evidence of textile dyeing with natural dyes dating back to the Neolithic period. In China,dyeing with plants,barks and insects has been traced back more than 5,000 years. Natural insect dyes such as Tyrian purple and kermes and plant-based dyes such as woad,indigo and madder were important elements of the economies of Asia and Europe until the discovery of man-made synthetic dyes in the mid-19th century. Synthetic dyes quickly superseded natural dyes for the large-scale commercial textile production enabled by the industrial revolution,but natural dyes remained in use by traditional cultures around the world.
Kalamkari is a type of hand-painted cotton textile produced in the Indian state of Andhra Pradesh. Only natural dyes are used in Kalamkari,which involves twenty-three steps.
Nantong blue calico printing and dyeing has been practiced in most parts of Nantong City,Jiangsu Province,China,since the beginning of Qing dynasty. In modern times,blue calico is used to make daily clothes,mosquito nets,pillowcases,baggage cloth,etc.
Wet Processing Engineering is one of the major streams in Textile Engineering or Textile manufacturing which refers to the engineering of textile chemical processes and associated applied science. The other three streams in textile engineering are yarn engineering,fabric engineering,and apparel engineering. The processes of this stream are involved or carried out in an aqueous stage. Hence,it is called a wet process which usually covers pre-treatment,dyeing,printing,and finishing.
Yeomsaek (Korean: 염색) is a traditional Korean process for dyeing cloth.
Dadeumi (Korean: 다듬이) or dadeumijil (다듬이질) or kinuta (砧) is a Korean traditional ironing method where two women knelt on the floor,facing each other across a smoothing stone,beating out a rhythm on the cloth to press out its wrinkles and soften it.Dadeumi requires dadeumitbangmangi (다듬잇방망이) and dadeumitdol (다듬잇돌). The former is a bat that pounds on the cloth,and the latter is the stone under the cloth.
Bazin is a West African fabric with its origin in Mali,made from hand-dyed cotton,resulting in a damask textile known for its stiffness and vibrant sheen. It is primarily recognized as the most commonly used fabric for crafting a Boubou,a long,loose traditional outerwear worn by both men and women,particularly in West Africa.
Cold pad batch (CPB) is a method of dyeing textiles,typically cellulosic fibers such as cotton,in which the textile is impregnated with dye in a cold state,rather than being heated. High dye fixation and no thermal energy are the advantages of the CPB process. CPB-dyed fabrics are less expensive,have a softer hand feel,and have a cleaner surface than exhaust dyed materials. The process may take up to 12 hours in the batching process,depending on the depth of the shade. The disadvantage is that batching is a time-consuming and lengthy process. The process was developed in 1960.