Hickson Inc.

Last updated
Hickson Inc.
Company typeWomen's Clothing
IndustryFashion
Founded1902;122 years ago (1902) in New York City, New York, United States
Founder
  • Caroline "Carrie" Hickson-Kennedy
  • Kathryn "Kate" Hickson
  • Richard J. Hickson
DefunctSeptember 1931;92 years ago (1931-09)
FateBankrupt
SuccessorNelson-Hickson Inc.
Headquarters
New York
,
United States
Owner
  • Richard J. Hickson
  • Leslie M. Hickson
  • Philip S. Crooks

Hickson Inc. was a high-class fashion retailer, designer, and department store in New York City in the early decades of the twentieth century. The firm started as a men's tailor but evolved to be what the designer Howard Greer described as "the most elegant and expensive specialty shop on Fifth Avenue." [1]

Contents

In the 1910s, the firm dressed actresses in silent movies, and 1926, it opened a purpose-built store in a corner position on Fifth Avenue. It worked with Madeleine Vionnet and Georges Matchabelli. Charvet & Fils took space in their store. However, in 1931, at the start of the Great Depression, they filed for bankruptcy. Several Hickson creations are in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

History

A Hickson-designed dress in the 1917 silent film The Gown of Destiny Scene from The Gown of Destiny (1917).jpg
A Hickson-designed dress in the 1917 silent film The Gown of Destiny

Hickson Inc. was founded as Hickson & Company in 1902 by Caroline "Carrie" Hickson-Kennedy, Kathryn "Kate" Hickson, and Richard J. Hickson—all siblings. The company's initial headquarters were at 657 Fifth Avenue in New York City; the Hicksons founded the company with an initial investment of $800. After Kate and Carrie were killed in the 1915 sinking of the RMS Lusitania, [2] the company was run by Richard Hickson, his son Leslie M. Hickson, and business partner Phillip S. Crooks. Richard Hickson was president of the company while Leslie Hickson and Phillip Crooks operated as its vice presidents. [3]

The firm started as a men's tailor but evolved into a high-class dress salon that the designer Howard Greer, who worked there for a short time, described as "the most elegant and expensive specialty shop on Fifth Avenue." [1] [4]

In 1916, Hickson lost a suit from Boué Soeurs that alleged that they had bought that firm's garments, copied them, and sold them as their designs, as well as removing the labels from the garments they had purchased and selling them too. [5] [6]

Hickson provided many gowns for Pathé Exchange's series Who's Guilty? (1916). [7] Among their designs was a light pink sari-inspired dress for the patriotic 1917 silent film The Gown of Destiny with a "bustle-back" that they invented. The light-colored dress was better suited to black and white film than a dark dress, and the film made the design popular. Although the film supported the Allied cause during World War I, as did Hickson, the firm was keen to claim that the dress was produced independently of any Parisian influence to emphasize that the American fashion industry was no longer in thrall to French influences. [4]

In February 1921, it was reported that Hickson was to make the gown, wrap, and hat to be worn by Florence Harding at her husband's inauguration as 29th President of the United States. The color chosen was "Mrs. Harding Blue." [8]

In 1924, [9] Hickson began to work with Madeleine Vionnet as she re-established her business in Paris and New York after closing during World War I. Her clothes and workrooms occupied an entire floor of the Hickson premises. [10]

In 1926, Georges Matchabelli, creator of Prince Matchabelli perfume, began appearing at Hickson to sell his fragrances and personally mixing perfumes for some of their customers. [11]

Illustration of the new Hickson building at 660 Fifth Avenue, New York. The New York Times, September 1926. Hickson Building, 660 Fifth Avenue New York.jpg
Illustration of the new Hickson building at 660 Fifth Avenue, New York. The New York Times, September 1926.

In September 1926, it was reported that on 31 December that year, the firm would open a new five-story building on Fifth Avenue on the corner of 52nd Street. The building was designed by architects Springsteen and Goldhammer in the Italian Renaissance style on the former site of the William K. Vanderbilt House. [12] Charvet & Fils took space in the building in 1927. [13]

In 1928, the firm suffered a burglary at the firm's 15 West 36th Street workrooms when burglars broke through a wall on the tenth floor and stole clothing valued at $30–40,000. [14]

Demise and legacy

In September 1931, the firm filed for bankruptcy with a U.S. court. Papers lodged with the court stated that an order had been lodged with the municipal court seeking to evict the firm from its 660 Fifth Avenue premises. [15] Following bankruptcy, the rights to the firm's property and possessions were transferred to majority stakeholder Seel Singer. [16] Singer kept the fashion retailing business going at the same 660 Fifth Avenue building; [17] shortly after, the company was renamed to Nelson-Hickson Inc., following a partnership with clothing designer Anne Nelson. [18] In 1938, Nelson-Hickson moved to "a charming old five-story house" at 9 West 57th. [19]

A 1911 "walking suit" by Hickson is in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, [20] [21] along with a c.1913 evening dress, [22] a 1916 evening cape [23] and a c.1918 wool suit. [24]

Further reading

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Charles Frederick Worth</span> English fashion designer (1825–1895)

Charles Frederick Worth was an English fashion designer who founded the House of Worth, one of the foremost fashion houses of the 19th and early 20th centuries. He is considered by many fashion historians to be the father of haute couture. Worth is also credited with revolutionising the business of fashion.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Madeleine Vionnet</span> French fashion designer (1876–1975)

Madeleine Vionnet was a French fashion designer. Vionnet trained in London before returning to France to establish her first fashion house in Paris in 1912. Although it was forced to close in 1914 at the outbreak of the First World War, it re-opened after the war and Vionnet became one of the leading designers of 1920s-30s Paris. Vionnet was forced to close her house in 1939 and retired in 1940.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1890s in Western fashion</span> Costume and fashion of the 1890s

Fashion in the 1890s in European and European-influenced countries is characterized by long elegant lines, tall collars, and the rise of sportswear. It was an era of great dress reforms led by the invention of the drop-frame safety bicycle, which allowed women the opportunity to ride bicycles more comfortably, and therefore, created the need for appropriate clothing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Zac Posen</span> American fashion designer

Zachary E. Posen is an American fashion designer.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Callot Soeurs</span> French fashion house

Callot Soeurs was one of the leading fashion design houses of the 1910s and 1920s.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bonwit Teller</span> Defunct American luxury department store

Bonwit Teller & Co. was an American luxury department store in New York City, New York, founded by Paul Bonwit in 1895 at Sixth Avenue and 18th Street, and later a chain of department stores.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Claire McCardell</span> American fashion designer (1905-1958)

Claire McCardell was an American fashion designer of ready-to-wear clothing in the twentieth century. She is credited with the creation of American sportswear.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Norman Norell</span> American fashion designer (1900–1972)

Norman David Levinson known professionally as Norman Norell, was an American fashion designer famed for his elegant gowns, suits, and tailored silhouettes. His designs for the Traina-Norell and Norell fashion houses became famous for their detailing, simple, timeless designs, and tailored construction. By the mid-twentieth century Norell dominated the American fashion industry and in 1968 he launched his own brand of perfume. The designer Gilbert Adrian was the first American designer to add a perfume line in 1945, with his "Saint" and "Sinner" fragrances.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1930–1945 in Western fashion</span> Costume and fashion from the 1930s to the end of World War II

The most characteristic North American fashion trend from the 1930s to 1945 was attention at the shoulder, with butterfly sleeves and banjo sleeves, and exaggerated shoulder pads for both men and women by the 1940s. The period also saw the first widespread use of man-made fibers, especially rayon for dresses and viscose for linings and lingerie, and synthetic nylon stockings. The zipper became widely used. These essentially U.S. developments were echoed, in varying degrees, in Britain and Europe. Suntans became fashionable in the early 1930s, along with travel to the resorts along the Mediterranean, in the Bahamas, and on the east coast of Florida where one can acquire a tan, leading to new categories of clothes: white dinner jackets for men and beach pajamas, halter tops, and bare midriffs for women.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1900s in Western fashion</span> Costume and fashion in the decade 1900–1909

Fashion in the period 1900–1909 in the Western world continued the severe, long and elegant lines of the late 1890s. Tall, stiff collars characterize the period, as do women's broad hats and full "Gibson Girl" hairstyles. A new, columnar silhouette introduced by the couturiers of Paris late in the decade signaled the approaching abandonment of the corset as an indispensable garment.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Valentina (fashion designer)</span> Ukrainian artist (1889–1989)

Valentina Nicholaevna Sanina Schlee, simply known as Valentina, was a Ukrainian émigrée fashion designer and theatrical costume designer active from 1928 to the late 1950s.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jessie Franklin Turner</span> American fashion designer

Jessie Franklin Turner was an American fashion designer based in New York in the early 20th century. She was notable for being one of the first American designers to create unique designs, rather than imitating or copying Paris fashions, and was the first American fashion designer to establish a long-term couture business in New York.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">William K. Vanderbilt House</span> Demolished mansion in Manhattan, New York

The William K. Vanderbilt House, also known as the Petit Chateau, was a Châteauesque mansion at 660 Fifth Avenue in Midtown Manhattan, New York City, on the northwest corner of Fifth Avenue and 52nd Street. It was across the street from the Triple Palace of William Henry Vanderbilt, which occupied the entire block between 51st and 52nd Streets on the west side of Fifth Avenue.

Adele Simpson was an American fashion designer with a successful career that spanned nearly five decades, as well as a child performer in vaudeville who danced in productions with Milton Berle and other entertainers.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Vionnet (company)</span> Italian luxury haute couture label

Vionnet is an haute couture label founded by the French couturier Madeleine Vionnet. Established in 1912, the house of Vionnet closed doors in 1939. Vionnet was relaunched by Guy and Arnaud de Lummen in the mid-1990s with perfumes and accessories, and then in 2006 with ready-to-wear collections. In 2012, Vionnet was purchased by the Kazakh businesswoman Goga Ashkenazi. In 2023, Chimhaeres Investments purchased the brand.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Georges Doeuillet</span>

Georges Camille Doeuillet was born 16 July 1865 in Oise, Northern France. He became one of France's best known couturiers along with his peers Louise Chéruit, Jeanne Paquin, Paul Poiret, Redfern & Sons and the House of Charles Worth.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Marie-Louise Bruyère</span> French fashion designer

Marie-Louise Bruyère, mostly known as Madame Bruyère, or simply as Bruyère, was a French fashion designer of the 1930s, 1940s and 1950s, operating out of Paris, and importing her fashion lines abroad.

Philippe et Gaston was a Paris couture house established in 1922. It rapidly became a prestigious establishment. In 1926 it was ranked alongside Chanel, Madeleine Vionnet and Jeanne Lanvin as a notable French fashion house. By 1931, it was well known enough to rate a mention in Bruno Jasieński's 1931 play The Ball of the Mannequins. However, by 1946, the house was in need of resurrection. That year, the French textile baron, entrepreneur, and one of France's richest men, Marcel Boussac invited Christian Dior to become head designer for Philippe et Gaston and rejuvenate the brand. Dior declined, as he wanted to launch his own label under his own terms, rather than resurrect an "old-fashioned and rundown house." Boussac and Dior subsequently launched Christian Dior S. A.

Tina Leser was an American fashion designer. Part of a generation of pioneering sportswear designers, Leser was particularly known for her global influences.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">House of Thurn</span> New York fashion house

House of Thurn was an haute couture label founded by Sidonie Thurn and continued by her daughter Carolyn Hague. The house, known by its label as Thurn, prepared made-to-order fashions for its wealthy customers. Begun as a small import shop in Brooklyn, Thurn occupied a succession of buildings on or near Fifth Avenue from 1870 to 1934. The last of these was a remodeled Gilded Age townhouse located between Madison and Fifth Avenues at 15 East 52nd Street. An article in Arts & Decoration magazine for July 1923 described this location as "a charming salon, all flattering French gray, with sparkling mirrors and gracious French furniture covered with satin damask of gray and gold." In 1926, a writer for The Nation listed Thurn as one of the sixteen most exclusive houses in New York. In 1937, the owner of one of the sixteen houses, said that Thurn had been "practically the highest class business establishment of the kind in New York City." Museum collections that hold Thurn fashions include the Metropolitan Museum of Art, The Los Angeles County Museum of Art, the Hillwood Museum, the Indianapolis Museum of Art, and the Fashion Institute of Design Museum, Los Angeles.

References

  1. 1 2 Greer, Howard. (1951) Designing Male. New York: Putnam. p. 205.
  2. "Hickson & Company". Collections. Northwest Museum of Arts and Culture. n.d. Archived from the original on October 5, 2022.
  3. Supreme Court of the United States (1918). Abraham Gershel and Horatio S. Simon, doing business under the firm name and style of A. Gershel & Company, Joseph Jonasson & Company and Philip Mangone & Company, Plaintiffs-Respondents, against Hickson Inc., Abraham E. Lefcourt, doing business as A. E. Lefcourt & Company, and Benjamin Gershel, Michael Gershel and Sigmund Kaskie, doing business as Ben Gershel & Company, Defendants-Appellants. The Reporter Co. p. passim via Google Books.
  4. 1 2 Finamore, M. Tolini (2013). Hollywood Before Glamour: Fashion in American silent film . Basingstoke: Palgrave Macmillan. pp. 68–72. ISBN 978-0-230-38949-6.
  5. Richardson, Megan & Julia Thomas. (2012) Fashioning Intellectual Property: Exhibition, Advertising and the Press 1789-1918. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. p. 138. ISBN 9780521767569
  6. Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, Sophie Kurkdjian (Eds.) (2021) Fashion, Society, and the First World War: International perspectives. London: Bloomsbury. p. 26. ISBN 9781350119864
  7. Abel, Richard. (Ed.) (1996) Silent Film. London: Athlone Press. p. 190. ISBN 9780485300765
  8. "Hickson Inc. Given Honor of Making Gown", Washington Herald, 6 February 1921, p. 19. Retrieved from newspaperarchive.com 5 October 2022.
  9. "Says Hicksons Have Vionnet Rights", Women's Wear Daily , 20 February 1924, p.1.
  10. Pouillard, Véronique. (2021) Paris to New York: The Transatlantic Fashion Industry in the Twentieth Century. Harvard Studies in Business History No. 54. New Haven: Harvard University Press. p. 66. ISBN 9780674237407
  11. Prince Matchabelli, James Bennett, Cosmetics and Skin. Retrieved 1 October 2022.
  12. "New Hickson Building to be Opened Dec. 31". The New York Times. 5 September 1926. p. RE1. ProQuest   103817421.
  13. "5th Avenue Lease to Haberdashers: Charvet & Fils Take Space in the Hickson Building at Fifty-second Street.", The New York Times, 21 January 1927, p. 30. Retrieved from ProQuest, 2 October 2022.
  14. "Burglars Cut Wall, Get $30,000 Gowns: Bore Through Ten Inches of Brick at Hickson Loft in 36th St., Off Fifth Av.", The New York Times, 13 October 1928, p. 12. Retrieved from ProQuest, 5 October 2022.
  15. "Hickson, Inc., Files Bankruptcy Petition: Court Names Irving Trust Receiver for Fifth Avenue Women's Wear Concern", The New York Times, 17 September 1931, p. 14. Retrieved from ProQuest, 2 October 2022.
  16. Papers on Appeal. Vol. 8. Supreme Court of the United States. 1931. p. 8 via Google Books.
  17. "Listings". Year Book. Merchants' Association of New York: 87. 1931 via Google Books.
  18. Blanshard, Julia (November 15, 1932). "Become Happy in Work, Says Girl Executive". Star-Gazette: 15 via Newspapers.com.
  19. "Briefs". Harper's Bazaar. 72. Hearst Corporation: 45. 1938 via Google Books. Exact date unknown.
  20. Walking suit 1911. Metropolitan Museum of Art. Retrieved 26 September 2022.
  21. Which also bears a Widoff Robes, N.Y. label.
  22. Evening dress ca. 1913. Metropolitan Museum of Art. Retrieved 27 September 2022.
  23. Evening cape 1916. Metropolitan Museum of Art. Retrieved 26 September 2022.
  24. Suit ca. 1918. Metropolitan Museum of Art. Retrieved 26 September 2022.

40°45′36″N73°58′33″W / 40.75993°N 73.97577°W / 40.75993; -73.97577