Sari-inspired dress

Last updated

Sari-inspired dress
President Dr. Sarvepalli Radhakrishnan of India Departs White House (3).jpg
Jacqueline Kennedy in a sari-inspired dress (3 June 1963)

A sari-inspired dress incorporates attributes of the Indian sari into its design. This includes how it drapes, its embellishment and colours.

Contents

In 1917, a sari-inspired dress appeared in the silent movie The Gown of Destiny . Following Jacqueline Kennedy's goodwill tour of India and Pakistan in 1962, when she had brought back several saris with the intention to make them into dresses, for a short while the sari-inspired dress gained enough interest to inspire several designers including Wesley Tann and Oleg Cassini to design dresses based on the sari. Other designers that have produced variations of the design include Dolce and Gabbana, Catherine Walker, Valentino, Marc Jacobs, Louis Vuitton and Alexander McQueen.

Kennedy wore Cassini's light-pink chiffon, sari-inspired dress to the opening of the Mona Lisa exhibition in Washington in 1963, and later that year wore it again when hosting a state dinner for Indian President Sarvepalli Radhakrishnan. When Princess Diana met the King of Thailand in 1988, she wore Walker's fuchsia and violet sari-inspired silk chiffon dress. In 1996 Elle supported their opinion of the sari-inspired dress by publishing an image of a woman looking down and stroking her embroidered black chiffon sari-inspired gown. In later years, other celebrities seen in sari-inspired dresses have included Jennifer Lopez, Freida Pinto, Sonam Kapoor, Jessica Chastain, and Archie Panjabi in a sari-gown embedded with colour changing LEDs.

Description

A sari-inspired dress incorporates attributes of the Indian sari into its design. [1] This includes how it drapes, its embellishment and colours. [2] Fashion designers that have produced variations of the design include Wesley Tann, Marc Jacobs, Alexander McQueen, Dolce and Gabbana, Valentino, Armani, Marchesa, Elsa Schiaparelli, Germana Marucelli, Madame Grès, Marcel Rochas, Gianni Versace, Jean Paul Gaultier and Carolina Herrera. [2]

Early-20th century

A Hickson Inc. designed sari-inspired dress for The Gown of Destiny (1917) Scene from The Gown of Destiny (1917).jpg
A Hickson Inc. designed sari-inspired dress for The Gown of Destiny (1917)

A sari-inspired dress appeared in the silent movie The Gown of Destiny (1917). [3] In the film, the fictional character Mr Reyton leaves his mistress after noticing how beautiful his wife looks wearing the sari-inspired dress. [3] The late 1930s sari-inspired designs of Schiaparelli, inspired by Princess Karam, [4] would later inspire the gilt leather decorated black crêpe dress by Christian Bérard and Nada Patcevitch. [5]

Mid-20th century

White House Dinner in honor of President of Tunisia. Kennedy in sari-inspired dress White House Dinner in honor of President of Tunisia. President Habib Bourguiba, Mrs. Bourguiba, Mrs. Kennedy... - NARA - 194199.jpg
White House Dinner in honor of President of Tunisia. Kennedy in sari-inspired dress

Following Jacqueline Kennedy's goodwill tour of India and Pakistan in 1962, when she had brought back several saris with the intention to make them into dresses, for a short while the sari-inspired dress gained enough interest to inspire several designers including Wesley Tann to design dresses based from the sari. [6] Tann produced several dresses using saris including two which featured in The New York Times and became available at Henri Bendel; a turquoise and gold silk Chanel-style suit and a two-piece red and gold dress. [6] Joseph Horne Co. stocked several of Tann's sari-inspired dress. [6] In 1963, Oleg Cassini made Kennedy a light-pink, sari-inspired dress to wear at the opening of the Mona Lisa exhibition in Washington 8 January 1963. [7] It was based on a Howell Conant photograph of the yellow chiffon sari-inspired dress worn by Audrey Hepburn the previous year and was made using pink chiffon and decorated with porcelain beads and diamante. [7] On 3 June 1963, she wore it again when hosting a state dinner for Indian President Sarvepalli Radhakrishnan. [7] [8] In 1967 Kennedy wore a sari-inspired Valentino gown to a dinner at the Chamcar Mon Palace in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. [9]

Late-20th century

When Princess Diana met the King of Thailand on 4 February 1988, she wore a fuchsia and violet sari-inspired silk chiffon dress, designed by Catherine Walker. [10] According to Versace, Elizabeth Hurley's famous Versace black dress, which she wore in 1994, developed from the sari. [11] [12] The magazine Elle gave the sari coverage in 1996 when it featured outfits "with an Eastern influence". [13] Elle called them "utterly delectable", "so exquisite" and "they come off best without any extra adornment". [13] They supported their opinion by publishing an image of a woman looking down and stroking her embroidered black chiffon sari-inspired full-length dress with a gold lace border. [13]

21st century

In 2003 Jennifer Lopez wore a mint green Valentino dress to the Oscars. [14] It left one shoulder bare, was sari-styled and was based on the dress worn by Kennedy on the Cambodia visit in 1967. [14]

In 2010 Marc Jacobs collaborated with Louis Vuitton to release a line of sari-inspired dresses made from vintage Indian saris. [2] In 2012 Jessica Chastain wore an Alexander McQueen black sari-inspired dress to the Academy Awards. [2] Mustafa Hassanali's gowns are frequently sari-inspired. [15]

Other celebrities featured in sari-inspired dresses have included Freida Pinto in a black and gold gown. [16] Sonam Kapoor walked the red carpet at Cannes in 2016 wearing a white sari-inspired figure-hugging large volume gown. [17] The following year, in Paris, she modelled Gaultier's sari-inspired adaptation of the tuxedo. [18] At the Vogue Women of the Year Awards in 2017, the host Archie Panjabi, wore a sari-gown embedded with colour changing LEDs, designed by Gaurav Gupta and IBM Watson. [19]

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Elie Saab</span> Lebanese fashion designer (born 1964)

Elie Saab is a Lebanese fashion designer.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Michael Kors</span> American fashion designer (born 1959)

Michael David Kors is an American fashion designer. He is the chief creative officer of his brand, Michael Kors, which sells men's and women's ready-to-wear, accessories, watches, jewelry, footwear, and fragrance. Kors was the first women's ready-to-wear designer for the French house Celine, from 1997 to 2003. On January 2, 2019, Michael Kors Holdings Limited officially changed its name to Capri Holdings Limited. Michael Kors, Jimmy Choo, and Versace are the three founder-led brands under Capri Holdings Limited.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Manish Malhotra</span> Indian fashion designer (b. 1966)

Manish Malhotra is an Indian fashion designer, couturier, costume stylist, entrepreneur, filmmaker, revivalist based in Mumbai, India.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1960s in fashion</span> Costume and fashion in the 1960s

Fashion of the 1960s featured a number of diverse trends, as part of a decade that broke many fashion traditions, adopted new cultures, and launched a new age of social movements. Around the middle of the decade, fashions arising from small pockets of young people in a few urban centers received large amounts of media publicity, and began to heavily influence both the haute couture of elite designers and the mass-market manufacturers. Examples include the mini skirt, culottes, go-go boots, and more experimental fashions, less often seen on the street, such as curved PVC dresses and other PVC clothes.

Kristen McMenamy is an American model known for her unconventional, androgynous appearance. Originally a long-haired redhead, she reinvented her look in the early 1990s by having her hair cut short and dyed black, and her eyebrows shaved off. Her career was boosted by the advent of the grunge fashion trend.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Black Versace dress of Elizabeth Hurley</span> Dress worn by Elizabeth Hurley

English actress and model Elizabeth Hurley wore a black Versace dress, often referred to as "THAT Dress", when she accompanied Hugh Grant to the premiere of Four Weddings and a Funeral in 1994. The dress was held together by several oversized gold safety pins. The dress is one of Versace's best-known creations, along with Jennifer Lopez's green dress, the inspiration for Google Image Search, and it is considered by some to be largely responsible for launching Hurley onto the global media stage.

American entertainer Jennifer Lopez wore a green Versace silk chiffon dress to the 42nd Grammy Awards ceremony on February 23, 2000. The sheer fabric was printed with a tropical leaf and bamboo pattern, and cut with a very low neckline that extended well past Lopez's navel, while the waist of the dress was studded with citrines.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Yellow Valentino dress of Cate Blanchett</span>

Australian actress Cate Blanchett wore a pale yellow silk taffeta Valentino dress to the 77th Academy Awards on 26 February 2005. It was the dress Blanchett wore when she won the Academy Award for Best Supporting Actress for her performance in The Aviator in front of some 42.1 million people on American television. Cosmopolitan has cited the gown as one of the Best Oscar dresses of all time, stating, "In this yellow silk taffeta gown created especially for her by Valentino, Cate looks like a classic Hollywood starlet. The one-shoulder strap and contrasting belt are great details, and the color is perfect for her milk-white skin."

Anamika Khanna is an Indian fashion designer who operates from her studio situated in Kolkata. She has been covered by the Business of Fashion (BOF) for being the Indian designer who has blended traditional Indian textiles and techniques with Western silhouette and tailoring. She is the first Indian designer to have an International label: "Ana mika". Her creations are sold online and offline stores across India and abroad. Before entering the fashion industry, Anamika was a classical dancer and painter.

Red carpet fashion in 2000 was largely overshadowed by the revealing green Versace dress worn by Jennifer Lopez for February's Grammy awards, which became one of the most talked-about and widely publicised red-carpet dresses of the year. For the 57th Golden Globe Awards Halle Berry borrowed a glamorous Valentino dress, that was described as setting the standard for Golden Globe red carpet style, and according to Phillip Bloch, her stylist at the time, "began the time when a dress could actually make a career."

<span class="mw-page-title-main">2001 in red carpet fashion</span> Overview of the events of 2001 in red carpet fashion

One of the most widely publicised red carpet outfits in 2001 was the distinctive swan dress worn by the singer Björk to the Oscars. The September 11 attacks and outbreak of the War in Afghanistan led to the postponement of the Emmys until November 4, when a subdued ceremony was held, with attendees asked to wear suits. This was the first time that such a request had been made of attendees of a major award ceremony since the 1942 Oscars followed the attack on Pearl Harbor.

India is a country with an ancient clothing design tradition, yet an emerging fashion industry. Though a handful of designers existed prior to the 1980s, the late 1980s and the 1990s saw a spurt of growth. This was the result of increasing exposure to global fashion and the economic boom the economic liberalization of the Indian economy in 1990. The following decades firmly established fashion as an industry across India.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Valentino Ready-to-Wear runway collections</span>

The Valentino Ready-to-Wear collection is a showcased biannual collection for spring-summer and autumn-winter seasons during Paris Fashion Week to an audience of media, retailers, buyers, investors, and customers, under the auspices of the Chambre Syndicale du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode, which is one of three trade associations affiliated with the Fédération française de la couture, du prêt-à-porter des couturiers et des créateurs de mode.

Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination was the 2018 high fashion art exhibition of the Anna Wintour Costume Center, a wing of the Metropolitan Museum of Art (MMA) which houses the collection of the Costume Institute.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Fashion of Diana, Princess of Wales</span> Describes the fashion and style of Diana, Princess of Wales

The fashion of Diana, Princess of Wales, had a substantial impact on the clothing industry; her style in the 1980s and 1990s led her to be considered a fashion icon.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Black Versace dress of Angelina Jolie</span> Black dress worn by Angelina Jolie

Angelina Jolie wore a black dress on February 26, 2012, to the 84th Academy Awards at the Hollywood and Highland Center, where she presented the Academy Award for Best Original Screenplay. Jolie's gown was styled by Jen Rade and created by Versace, a frequent dresser of Jolie on the red carpet. The strapless velvet piece gained praise from media publications, and is considered one of the most memorable dresses in fashion history. The look also spurred several internet memes surrounding Jolie's posing, and became a significant moment in pop culture.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jacqueline Kennedy's 1962 goodwill tour of India and Pakistan</span>

Jacqueline Kennedy took a goodwill tour of India and Pakistan in 1962. While the media gave widespread coverage on her fashion style, she functioned as an informal diplomat and developed her interest in arts and architecture, returning to India in later years to co-produce a book on Indian artwork.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Wesley Tann</span> African–American fashion designer (1928–2012)

John Wesley Tann Jr was an American fashion designer. His clientele included Jacqueline Kennedy, Diahann Carroll, Carmen de Lavallade, Leontyne Price, Jennie Grossinger and several Miss Americas. His 1962 collection included several sari-inspired dresses.

Gaurav Gupta is an avant-garde Indian couturier. Gupta's work has been featured in events such Paris Haute Couture Week. His work is characterized by his origami style sculptural style patterns with pleating and lifting. Gupta is known to use traditional Indian embroidery techniques like zardozi, nakshi and dabka and borrow abstract patterns from nature. He holds the distinction of being the third Indian designer, following Rahul Mishra and Vaishali S, to present at the couture week.

References

  1. Curtis, Charlotte (17 July 1962). "Indian Sari Fashioned Into a Plethora of Styles". The New York Times. Archived from the original on 10 February 2024. Retrieved 23 September 2022.
  2. 1 2 3 4 Lynch, Annette; Strauss, Mitchell D. (2015). "Sari". Ethnic Dress in the United States: A Cultural Encyclopedia. Lanham: Rowman & Littlefield. p. 257. ISBN   978-0-7591-2148-5.
  3. 1 2 Finamore, M. Tolini (2013). "3. World War I and "American" design in fashion and film". Hollywood Before Glamour: Fashion in American Silent Film. Springer. pp. 68–69. ISBN   978-0-230-38949-6.
  4. Frocking Life: Searching for Elsa Schiaparelli. New York: Rizzoli Publications. 2016. p. 202. ISBN   978-0-8478-4548-4.
  5. Pel, Martin (2017). "3. Souvenirs: a collection of the mundane". In Haye, Amy De La; Pel, Martin (eds.). Gluck: Art and Identity. New Haven: Yale University Press. p. 79. ISBN   978-0-300-23048-2.
  6. 1 2 3 Deihl, Nancy (2021). "7. Wesley Tann: the glamour and the guts". In Way, Elizabeth (ed.). Black Designers in American Fashion. Bloomsbury, London: Bloomsbury Publishing. pp. 134–150. ISBN   978-1-350-13846-9.
  7. 1 2 3 Bowles, Hamish; Museum, John F. Kennedy Library and (2001). "White House Style". Jacqueline Kennedy: The White House Years : Selections from the John F. Kennedy Library and Museum. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. ISBN   0-87099-981-8.
  8. Green, Cynthia (20 January 2020). "Of Jackie Kennedy's India Spiked Wardrobe". thevoiceoffashion.com. Archived from the original on 5 April 2022. Retrieved 5 April 2022.
  9. Chrisman-Campbell, Kimberly (2022). Skirts: Fashioning Modern Femininity in the Twentieth Century. St. Martin's Publishing Group. p. 24. ISBN   978-1-250-27580-6.
  10. Modlinger, Jackie (1998). Diana: Woman of Style. Bramley. p. 140. ISBN   978-1-85833-965-8.
  11. Martin, Richard Harrison; Versace, Gianni; N.Y.), Metropolitan Museum of Art (New York (1997). Gianni Versace. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. p. 20-22. ISBN   978-0-87099-842-3.
  12. Giorcelli, Maria Cristina (2017). "15. Maisons de mode and influences: eastern (western) influences on western (eastern) fashion". In Motta, Giovanna; Biagini, Antonello (eds.). Fashion through History: Costumes, Symbols, Communication (Volume II). Newcastle upon Tyne: Cambridge Scholars Publishing. p. 294. ISBN   978-1-5275-0345-8.
  13. 1 2 3 Tu, Thuy Linh N. (2011). "3. The cultural economy of Asian chic". The Beautiful Generation: Asian Americans and the Cultural Economy of Fashion. Duke University Press. pp. 125–127. ISBN   978-0-8223-4913-6.
  14. 1 2 Mzezewa, Tariro (21 August 2018). "Photos: Jennifer Lopez's Style Through the Years". The New York Times. Retrieved 27 September 2022.
  15. Billings, Sabrina (2014). "6. 'Which is your favourite color?' Race and ethnicity in a color-blind Tanzania". Language, Globalization and the Making of a Tanzanian Beauty Queen. Bristol: Multilingual Matters. p. 113. ISBN   978-1-78309-077-8.
  16. "Freida Pinto flaunts toned body in sari-inspired gown". Hindustan Times. 6 September 2012. Archived from the original on 1 October 2022. Retrieved 1 October 2022.
  17. Caroli, Aditi (16 May 2016). "Designers give thumbs up to Sonam Kapoor's sari-inspired Cannes gown". Hindustan Times. Archived from the original on 1 October 2022. Retrieved 1 October 2022.
  18. Gupta, Garima (23 January 2020). "Sonam Kapoor Ahuja attended Jean Paul Gaultier's last couture show in a sari tuxedo". Vogue India. Archived from the original on 1 October 2022. Retrieved 1 October 2022.
  19. "A look at IBM Watson's cognitive sari-gown at the Vogue Women of the Year Awards". Vogue India. 11 December 2017. Archived from the original on 1 October 2022. Retrieved 1 October 2022.