John Martin Taylor

Last updated
John Martin Taylor
JT2009Portrait.jpg
Born
Louisiana, U.S.
Occupation(s)Food writer, historian
Notable workHoppin' John's Lowcountry Cooking, The New Southern Cook, The Fearless Frying Cookbook

John Martin Taylor, also known as Hoppin' John, is an American food writer and culinary historian, known for his writing on the cooking of the American South, and, in particular, the foods of the lowcountry, the coastal plain of South Carolina and Georgia. [1] He has played a role in reintroducing many traditional southern dishes, and has advocated the return to stone-ground, whole-grain, heirloom grits and cornmeal production.

Contents

Early years

Taylor was born in Louisiana, moving to the South Carolina Lowcountry when he was 3. The son of scientists, he spent much of his youth aboard the family's boats. His mother was an adventurous cook and cookbook collector and his father was a wine lover. He received a B.A. in journalism from the University of Georgia (UGA) in 1971. In 1977 he earned a Master of Arts in Film, also from UGA.

From the late 1970s to the early 1980s, Taylor lived in the Caribbean, Paris, and Genoa. In 1983 he joined the staff of the new French-language magazine, Ici New York, as their American liaison and food editor. He has written for such publications as The New York Times, Gourmet , Bon Appétit , Food & Wine and The Washington Post . [2]

Bookstore

In 1986, Taylor opened his culinary bookstore, Hoppin' John's, in downtown Charleston, South Carolina. He had begun researching the culinary history of the area after interviewing the scholar Karen Hess on the history of Thanksgiving. In 1989, Hurricane Hugo hit Charleston. Taylor wrote his first book during the year that his business was closed for repairs. He was involved in forming the downtown farmers’ market in Charleston, where he sold stone-ground grits and cornmeal. When he reopened the store, he expanded it to include a cooking school. He closed the storefront in 1999, but continued to sell his corn products online at his eponymous website, HoppinJohns.com. [3] In 2019, he sold the business to his niece, Sarah Taylor Ferrell, of Durham, North Carolina.

Cookbooks

Hoppin' John's Lowcountry Cooking (1992), Taylor's first book, was included in a roundup of "intellectual" food books by The New York Times in 1992. [4] Southern Living Magazine called the cookbook "scholarly". [5] It was included in a roundup of "intellectual" food books by The New York Times in 1992. [4] [6]

His second book, The New Southern Cook, was included in a roundup of Southern classics by The New York Times in 1995. [7]

The New York Times Magazine called The Fearless Frying Cookbook "extremely user-friendly" and that it would "eventually become the bible on the topic". [8] He was a founding member of the Southern Foodways Alliance. [9]

Other books he has written include Hoppin’ John’s Charleston, Beaufort & Savannah (1997), which featured Taylor's photography as well as his history and recipes. [10]

Gourmet Magazine has featured Taylor since the 1980s. Taylor writes about food and travel on his blog,. He is a consultant to the food industry and a speaker at U.S. museums and symposia. In 2010, he spoke at the Historic New Orleans Foundation, Monticello, and the Smithsonian.[ citation needed ] He was the keynote speaker at the International Corporate Chefs Association and grand marshal of the Pig Island Celebration in New York.[ citation needed ]

In 2012, the University of North Carolina Press published the 20th Anniversary Edition of Hoppin’ John's Lowcountry Cooking, with a new preface by Taylor. The book has remained in print since its initial publication. [11]

in 2018, in preparation to move overseas again, Taylor donated his culinary library to the International Culinary Institute of Myrtle Beach [3] and his papers to the College of Charleston. [12] He was also awarded the Amelia Award by the Culinary Historians of New York for expertise "in culinary history, with deep knowledge in the field. And ... for a having "demonstrated generosity and extraordinary support to others in the field, helping to shape and elevate culinary history into the academically-respected discipline that it is today." [13]

In 2022, Taylor wrote the Foreword to a new edition of Karen Hess's The Carolina Rice Kitchen: The African Connection, and the University of South Carolina Press published an anthology of 35 years of his writing.

Personal life

In 2010, he married his longtime partner, Mikel Lane Herrington, in Washington, DC. In 2011, the couple moved to Sofia, Bulgaria, where Herrington was the Peace Corps Country Director. In 2013, Taylor and Herrington moved to Chengdu, China, where Herrington was Peace Corps Country Director. From 2015 to 2019, they split their time between Savannah, Georgia, and Washington.[ citation needed ]

In 2019, Taylor moved to Phnom Penh, Cambodia, where Herrington is the Peace Corps Country Director. In 2023, they moved to Hanoi, Vietnam, where Herrington is the Peace Corps Country Director of the new mission there. [14]

Works

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Grits</span> Porridge of boiled cornmeal

Grits are a type of porridge made from boiled cornmeal. Hominy grits are a type of grits made from hominy – maize that has been treated with an alkali in a process called nixtamalization, with the pericarp removed. Grits are cooked in warm salted water or milk and considered a soup. They are often served with flavorings as a breakfast dish. Grits can be savory or sweet, with savory seasonings being more common. Grits are similar to other thick maize-based porridges from around the world, such as polenta and mieliepap. The dish originated in the Southern United States but is now available nationwide. Grits are often part of a dinner entrée shrimp and grits, served primarily in the South.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">James Beard</span> American chef

James Andrews Beard was an American chef, cookbook author, teacher and television personality. He pioneered television cooking shows, taught at The James Beard Cooking School in New York City and Seaside, Oregon, and lectured widely. He emphasized American cooking, prepared with fresh, wholesome, American ingredients, to a country just becoming aware of its own culinary heritage. Beard taught and mentored generations of professional chefs and food enthusiasts. He published more than twenty books, and his memory is honored by his foundation's annual James Beard Awards.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Soul food</span> American style of cooking

Soul food is an ethnic cuisine originating in the Southern United States. It originated from the cuisines of enslaved Africans trafficked to the North American colonies through the Atlantic slave trade during the Antebellum period and is closely associated with the cuisine of the American South. The expression "soul food" originated in the mid-1960s, when "soul" was a common word used to describe African-American culture. Soul food uses cooking techniques and ingredients from West African, Central African, Western European, and Indigenous cuisine of the Americas.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cuisine of the Southern United States</span> Regional cuisine of the United States

The cuisine of the Southern United States encompasses diverse food traditions of several subregions, including Tidewater, Appalachian, Lowcountry, Cajun, Creole, and Floribbean cuisine. In recent history, elements of Southern cuisine have spread to other parts of the United States, influencing other types of American cuisine.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cookbook</span> Book of recipes with instructions

A cookbook or cookery book is a kitchen reference containing recipes.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hoppin' John</span> Southern peas and rice dish

Hoppin' John, also known as Carolina peas and rice, is a peas and rice dish served in the Southern United States. It is made with cowpeas and rice, chopped onion, and sliced bacon, seasoned with salt. Some recipes use ham hock, fatback, country sausage, or smoked turkey parts instead of bacon. A few use green peppers or vinegar and spices. Smaller than black-eyed peas, field peas are used in the South Carolina Lowcountry and coastal Georgia; black-eyed peas are the norm elsewhere.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Edna Lewis</span> American chef

Edna Regina Lewis was a renowned American chef, teacher, and author who helped refine the American view of Southern cooking. She championed the use of fresh, in season ingredients and characterized Southern food as fried chicken, pork, and fresh vegetables – most especially greens. She wrote and co-wrote four books which covered Southern cooking and life in a small community of freed slaves and their descendants.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Fried green tomatoes</span> American dish

Fried green tomatoes are a culinary dish usually found in the United States, made from unripe (green) tomatoes coated with cornmeal and fried.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Lowcountry cuisine</span> Ethnic culinary tradition in coastal Georgia and South Carolina

Lowcountry cuisine is the cooking traditionally associated with the South Carolina Lowcountry and the Georgia coast. While it shares features with Southern cooking, its geography, economics, demographics, and culture pushed its culinary identity in a different direction from regions above the Fall Line.

Vertamae Smart-Grosvenor was an American culinary anthropologist, griot, poet, food writer, and broadcaster on public media. Born into a Gullah family in the Low Country of South Carolina, she moved with them as a child to Philadelphia during the Great Migration. Later she lived in Paris before settling in New York City. She was active in the Black Arts Movement and performed on Broadway.

In social science, foodways are the cultural, social, and economic practices relating to the production and consumption of food. Foodways often refers to the intersection of food in culture, traditions, and history.

Helen Jean Anderson was an American cookbook author and editor.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Nun's puffs</span> Dessert pastry

Nun's puffs are a dessert pastry originally from France, where they were known as pets de nonne. They are now also produced in French Canada, the United States, England, and Spain.

Ronni Lundy, is an American author and editor, whose work focuses on traditional Southern American foods, Appalachian foods, and music.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sean Brock</span> American chef

Sean Brock is an American chef specializing in Southern cuisine.

<i>Vibration Cooking</i> Book by Vertamae Grosvenor

Vibration Cooking: Or, the Travel Notes of a Geechee Girl is the 1970 debut book by Vertamae Smart-Grosvenor and combines recipes with storytelling. It was published by Doubleday. A second edition was published in 1986, and a third edition was published in 1992. The University of Georgia published another edition in 2011. Smart-Grosvenor went on to publish more cookbooks after Vibration Cooking. Vibration Cooking raised awareness about Gullah culture. Scholar Anne E. Goldman compared Vibration Cooking with Jessica Harris' Iron Pots and Wooden Spoons, arguing that, in both books, "the model of the self... is historicized by being developed in the context of colonialism." Scholar Lewis V. Baldwin recommended Vibration Cooking for its "interesting and brilliant insights on the social significance of food and eating and their relationship to 'place' in a southern context." The book inspired filmmaker Julie Dash to make the film Daughters of the Dust, which won awards at the Sundance Film Festival.

Michael Solomonov is an Israeli chef known for his restaurants in Center City, Philadelphia. His first restaurant Zahav, founded in 2008, has received national recognition including the James Beard Foundation "Outstanding Restaurant" in 2019. Solomonov was also awarded Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic in 2011, Cookbook of the Year in 2016, and Outstanding Chef in 2017 from the James Beard Foundation. In 2021, The New York Times named his restaurant Laser Wolf as one of "the 50 places in America we're most excited about right now."

<i>The Cooking Gene</i> Non-fiction book written by Michael W. Twitty

The Cooking Gene: A Journey Through African American Culinary History in the Old South is an American non-fiction book written by Michael W. Twitty. It was published in 2017 and is a food memoir. The author combines intensive genealogical and historical research as well as personal accounts to support the argument that the origin of southern cuisine is heavily based in the continent of Africa. The book was the recipient of the 2018 James Beard Foundation Book Award for Writing and Book of the Year.

<i>The Virginia House-Wife</i>

The Virginia House-Wife is an 1824 housekeeping manual and cookbook by Mary Randolph. In addition to recipes it gave instructions for making soap, starch, blacking and cologne.

Benjamin "BJ" Dennis IV is an American Gullah Geechee chef and caterer from Charleston, South Carolina who is known for preserving Gullah Geechee cooking and culture. Additionally, he is also notable for his discovery of hill rice in December 2016 in Trinidad, which was thought to have been extinct.

References

  1. Nancy Harmon Jenkins, The New York Times Magazine , "FOOD; COASTAL LEGACY" (January 22, 1989).
  2. John Martin Taylor, Hoppinjohns.net, "About me and my work and my products" (June 23, 2007).
  3. 1 2 "John Martin Taylor Donates Personal Book Collection". Horry Georgetown Technical College. 2018-04-17. Retrieved 2020-07-17.
  4. 1 2 Nancy Harmon Jenkins, The New York Times, "KITCHEN BOOKSHELF; For the Night Stand, a Library Of Intellectual Bedtime Snacks" (April 22, 1992).
  5. "The Lowcountry Love Affair Started Here" (September 7, 2012).
  6. Southern Living Magazine called the cookbook "scholarly"."The Lowcountry Love Affair Started Here" (September 7, 2012).
  7. Yanick Rice Lamb, The New York Times, "Southern Cookbooks, From Low Fat to Fatback" (August 23, 1995).
  8. Jonathan Reynolds, The New York Times, "Food; Fear of Frying" (March 4, 2001).
  9. Southern Foodways Alliance, The Southern Foodways Alliance Cookbook, University of Georgia Press, 2010.
  10. Barnes & Noble, "books by John Martin Taylor" (retrieved September 26, 2012).
  11. "Hoppin' John's Lowcountry Cooking | John Martin Taylor | University of North Carolina Press". University of North Carolina Press. Retrieved 2020-07-17.
  12. Barna, Stephanie (2018-05-12). "Renowned cookbook author Hoppin' John Taylor donates papers to College of Charleston". The Post and Courier. Retrieved 2020-07-17.
  13. "Amelia Award | Culinary Historians of New York | Stimulate and share knowledge of the ways food has affected humans". Culinary Historians of New York. Retrieved 2020-07-17.
  14. Herrington, Mikel. "Director's Welcome". Peace Corps. Archived from the original on 2020-03-20.