Natural skin care

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Natural skin care uses topical creams and lotions made of ingredients available in nature. [1] Much of the recent literature reviews plant-derived ingredients, which may include herbs, roots, flowers and essential oils, [2] [3] [4] but natural substances in skin care products include animal-derived products such as beeswax, and minerals. These substances may be combined with various carrier agents, preservatives, surfactants, humectants and emulsifiers. [5] : 5–8 

Contents

There are no legal definitions in the U.S. for advertising terms "natural" or "organic" when applied to personal care products. [6] Consumers often express a preference for skin products with organic and natural ingredients. [1] The personal skin care market based on natural products has shown strong growth. [7] Clinical and laboratory studies have identified activities in many natural ingredients that have potential beneficial activities for personal skin care, [2] [3] but there is a shortage of convincing evidence for natural product efficacy in medical problems. [8]

Some natural products and therapies may be harmful, either to the skin or systemically. [4] [8] [9] People prone to allergies should pay careful attention to what they use on their skin. Dermatologists may feel that there is enough scientific evidence to assist in the selection or avoidance of particular natural ingredients. [1]

Background

Jojoba oil is easily refined to be odorless, colorless and oxidatively stable, and is often used in cosmetics as a moisturizer and as a carrier oil for specialty fragrances Jojoba.jpg
Jojoba oil is easily refined to be odorless, colorless and oxidatively stable, and is often used in cosmetics as a moisturizer and as a carrier oil for specialty fragrances

Many countries require that the ingredient composition of skin care products is listed on the product, using the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) conventions. [5] : 4  Ingredients are listed in the order of their percentage within the product; natural ingredients are listed in Latin and synthetic ingredients are listed by technical name. [5] : 4  "The U.S. government has documented more than 10,500 ingredients in cosmetic products, but only a small percentage of those chemicals have been tested for safety. Of those that have been tested, some have been identified as carcinogens (causes cancer), teratogens (causes birth defects), and reproductive toxicants (damages the ability to reproduce)." [10]

The FDA surveyed 1,687 consumers ages 14 and older in 1994 about their use of cosmetics. [11] Nearly half of these consumers felt that a product claiming to be "natural" should contain all natural ingredients. [11] However, although the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) has designated within its certain requirements within its specific area of regulation for organic products, [1] the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) does not recognize a definition for natural products. [1] Accordingly, there are no legal definitions in the U.S. for the advertising terms "natural" or "organic" in personal care products. [6] The FDA prohibits certain ingredients in cosmetics. [12]

Some organic products which are designated organic may be intensely modified, sometimes considerably more so than conventional products. [1]

History

Plant extracts and herbs have been used by many cultures as cosmetics and perfumes since ancient times. [2] [13] [14]

Research is scientifically assessing natural products, selected based on experience in the ancient era. [15] [16] Validated use of these materials and products awaits further assessment. [15]


Cosmetics

Consumer preference

Consumers often express a preference for skin products with organic and natural ingredients. [1] The skin care market based on natural products has shown strong growth. [7] Clinical and laboratory studies have identified activities in many natural ingredients that have potential beneficial activities for the skin. [2] [3] Dermatologists may feel that there is enough scientific evidence to assist in the selection of particular natural ingredients. [1]

Consumers expected products to perform as advertised. [11] [17]

Industry response

Voluntary discontinuation of precursor substances that release small quantities of formaldehyde, which is a carcinogen, as well as reducing levels of the potentially carcinogenic impurity 1,4-dioxane. [6] Polycyclic musk fragrance ingredients, which have raised concerns as persistent and bioaccumulative endocrine disruptors, are being discontinued. [6]

Alternative medicine

There are significant reservations about complementary and alternative medicine (CAM) [18] [19] including a "shortage of evidence supporting the efficacy and safety of CAM" for skin problems. [8] However, patients express a desire to utilize natural ingredients as treatment. [1] A literature search found a growing prevalence of CAM use for skin conditions. [8] A number of textbooks address CAM perspectives of skin care. [20] [21] The purpose of this section is to review botanical compounds in skin care; a broader review the history and theory behind other CAM modalities such as psychocutaneous therapies, acupuncture and homeopathy can be found in recent reviews. [8]

Western

The plant monographs with dermatological relevance of the former German Commission E have recently been reviewed. [22]

According to Baumann, "Botanical compounds for which dermatologic and cosmetic applications have emerged include: olive oil, chamomile, colloidal oatmeal, oat kernel extract, feverfew, acai berry, coffee berry, curcumin, green tea, pomegranate, licorice, paper mulberry, arbutin, and soy. [3] "Many of these botanical sources offer biologically active components that require further in vitro and in vivo investigation". [3]

A review of 35 plant families found that a "variety of phytomolecules, derived in particular from polyphenols, triterpenes and sterols classes, demonstrated a promising activity." [7]

Colloidal oatmeal may be beneficial in psoriasis. Aloe vera may help in atopic dermatitis. In both these conditions, the benefit may arise from anti-inflammatory properties. "For combating acne and rosacea, green tea, niacinamide and feverfew are considered efficacious. For hyperpigmentation and antioxidative capabilities, licorice, green tea, arbutin, soy, acai berry, turmeric and pomegranate are among those plants and compounds found to be most beneficial. Additional research is needed to determine to confirm and elucidate the benefits of these ingredients in the prevention and management of skin disease." [2]

An assessment of clinical trials on green tea preparations and their uses in dermatology found some evidence for potential benefits. [23]

Ayurveda

Ayurvedic skincare is derived from medicinal practices that began over 5,000-years ago in India. [24] Ayurvedic medicine and healing practices are based on Indian philosophical, psychological, conventional, and medicinal understandings. Most of the ayurvedic skincare products contain the following herbs—aloe vera, almond, avocado, carrot, castor, clay, cocoa, coconut oil, cornmeal, cucumber, cutch tree, emu oil, ginkgo biloba, ginseng, grape seed oil, ground almond and walnut shell, horse chestnut, witch hazel, and honey.[ citation needed ]

Ayurvedic approaches have been used in molluscum contagiosum, [25] lymphatic filariasis, vitiligo and lichen planus. [16]

Phyllanthus emblica (amla, Indian gooseberry) has been used in ayurvedic medicine. [26] Standardized extracts of Phyllanthus emblica have a long-lasting and broad-spectrum antioxidant activity. [27] This may be suitable for use in Anti-aging cream, sunscreen and general purpose skin care products. [27]

Traditional Chinese medicine

Substances

Natural skin care ingredients include jojoba, safflower oil, rose hip seed oil, shea butter, beeswax, witch hazel, aloe vera, tea tree oil, coconut oil, and chamomile.

Research

Dermatological research suggests that the bioactive ingredients used in cosmeceuticals have benefits beyond the traditional moisturizer (e.g., Chen et al., 2005; [36] Zettersten, Ghadially, Feingold, Crumrine, & Elias, 1997). [37] However, despite reports of benefits from some cosmeceutical products, there are no formal requirements to prove that these products live up to their claims.

Biocompatible and environmentally friendly natural compounds have the potential to provide materials with photoresistant and thermoresistant properties. [38]

Dehydroabietic acid (DAA), a naturally occurring diterpene resin acid, "has lifespan extension effects in Caenorhabditis elegans, prevents lipofuscin accumulation, and prevents collagen secretion in human dermal fibroblasts. We found that these anti-aging effects are primarily mediated by SIRT1 activation." DAA may activate SIRT1 enzymatic activity, which may have a preventive effect against the aging process. [39]

Validated use of these materials and products awaits further assessment. [15]

Cosmeceuticals are topically applied, combination products that bring together cosmetics and "biologically active ingredients". Products which are similar in perceived benefits but ingested orally are known as nutricosmetics. According to the United States Food and Drug Administration (FDA), the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act "does not recognize any such category as "cosmeceuticals". A product can be a drug, a cosmetic, or a combination of both, but the term "cosmeceutical" has no meaning under the law". Drugs are subject to an intensive review and approval process by FDA. Cosmetics, and these related products, although regulated, are not approved by FDA prior to sale.[ citation needed ]

Cautions

Some alternative and natural products and therapies may be harmful, either to the skin or systemically. [4] [8] [9]

The FDA recommends understanding the ingredient label and says "There is no list of ingredients that can be guaranteed not to cause allergic reactions, so consumers who are prone to allergies should pay careful attention to what they use on their skin", further warning that "[t]here is no basis in fact or scientific legitimacy to the notion that products containing natural ingredients are good for the skin". Food preservatives are commonly used to preserve the safety and efficacy in these products. Alternative remedies may increase the prevalence of eczema. [9] Bhuchar recommends that "ingestible substances including most homeopathic, Ayurvedic, and traditional Chinese medicine herbal formulations that are not US FDA regulated should be viewed with caution as they may cause severe adverse effects" such as arsenic poisoning and liver failure." [8]

Given the shortage of evidence for natural skin care efficacy, if applied it may often need to be used in combination with conventional treatment, rather than independently. [8] In fact, a recent 2022 study found that nearly all skin products that have the label "natural" actually contained ingredients that triggered contact dermatitis. The study looked at nearly 1,700 products. [40]

According to Bhuchar, there is a consensus in the literature that dermatologists need more information about CAM. [8] Wu advises that "dermatologists should be aware of what patients may be using and be able to advise them about the efficacy of these ingredients or the potential for adverse effects". [41] Many patients fail to inform their physicians about their use of herbal ingredients. [41]

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cosmetics</span> Substances applied to the body to change appearance or fragrance

Cosmetics are composed of mixtures of chemical compounds derived from either natural sources or synthetically created ones. Cosmetics have various purposes. Those designed for personal care and skin care can be used to cleanse or protect the body and skin. Cosmetics designed to enhance or alter one's appearance (makeup) can be used to conceal blemishes, enhance one's natural features, add color to a person's face, or change the appearance of the face entirely to resemble a different person, creature or object. Cosmetics can also be designed to add fragrance to the body.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sunscreen</span> Topical skin product that helps protect against sunburn

Sunscreen, also known as sunblock or sun cream, is a photoprotective topical product for the skin that helps protect against sunburn and most importantly prevent skin cancer. Sunscreens come as lotions, sprays, gels, foams, sticks, powders and other topical products. Sunscreens are common supplements to clothing, particularly sunglasses, sunhats and special sun protective clothing, and other forms of photoprotection.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cosmetology</span> Study and application of beauty treatment

Cosmetology is the study and application of beauty treatment. Branches of specialty include hairstyling, skin care, cosmetics, manicures/pedicures, non-permanent hair removal such as waxing and sugaring, and permanent hair removal processes such as electrology and intense pulsed light (IPL).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Rosacea</span> Skin condition resulting in redness, pimples and swelling, usually on the face

Rosacea is a long-term skin condition that typically affects the face. It results in redness, pimples, swelling, and small and superficial dilated blood vessels. Often, the nose, cheeks, forehead, and chin are most involved. A red, enlarged nose may occur in severe disease, a condition known as rhinophyma.

Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products with bioactive ingredients purported to have medical benefits. In the US, there are no legal requirements to prove that these products live up to their claims. The name is a portmanteau of "cosmetics" and "pharmaceuticals". Nutricosmetics are related dietary supplement or food or beverage products with additives that are marketed as having medical benefits that affect appearance.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Baby oil</span> Skincare product

Baby oil is, in general terms, an inert oil for the purpose of keeping skin soft and supple. It is often used on babies for the purpose of maintaining "baby-soft" skin, but it is also often used by adults for skincare and massage.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Comedo</span> Medical condition

A comedo is a clogged hair follicle (pore) in the skin. Keratin combines with oil to block the follicle. A comedo can be open (blackhead) or closed by skin (whitehead) and occur with or without acne. The word "comedo" comes from the Latin comedere, meaning "to eat up", and was historically used to describe parasitic worms; in modern medical terminology, it is used to suggest the worm-like appearance of the expressed material.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Lotion</span> Skin treatment preparation

Lotion is a low-viscosity topical preparation intended for application to the skin. By contrast, creams and gels have higher viscosity, typically due to lower water content. Lotions are applied to external skin with bare hands, a brush, a clean cloth, or cotton wool.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Skin care</span> Range of practices that support skin integrity

Skin care or skincare is a range of practices that support skin integrity, enhance its appearance, and relieve skin conditions. They can include nutrition, avoidance of excessive sun exposure, and appropriate use of emollients. Practices that enhance appearance include the use of cosmetics, botulinum, exfoliation, fillers, laser resurfacing, microdermabrasion, peels, retinol therapy, and ultrasonic skin treatment. Skin care is a routine daily procedure in many settings, such as skin that is either too dry or too moist, and prevention of dermatitis and prevention of skin injuries.

Ava T. Shamban is an American celebrity dermatologist who has made numerous appearances on television and cosmetic publications as an authority on the subject. She is currently a board-certified dermatologist based in Los Angeles, and founder of Ava MD.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Indoor tanning lotion</span>

Indoor tanning lotions accelerate the tanning process, by promoting the production of melanin. Increasing blood flow to the skin is a proposed mechanism, which may in turn stimulate production of melanin by melanocytes. Historically, indoor tanning lotions have contained no sunscreen and offer no protection from the sun. However, many tanning lotions currently contain sunscreen. Unlike sunless tanning lotions, these are designed for use with an ultraviolet source such as a tanning bed or booth.

Psychodermatology is the treatment of skin disorders using psychological and psychiatric techniques by addressing the interaction between mind and skin. Though historically there has not been strong scientific support for its practice, there is increasing evidence that behavioral treatments may be effective in the management of chronic skin disorders.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Phytophotodermatitis</span> Medical condition

Phytophotodermatitis, also known as berloque dermatitis, margarita photodermatitis, lime disease or lime phytodermatitis is a cutaneous phototoxic inflammatory reaction resulting from contact with a light-sensitizing botanical agent followed by exposure to ultraviolet A (UV-A) light. Symptoms include erythema, edema, blisters, and delayed hyperpigmentation. Heat and moisture tend to exacerbate the reaction.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pimple</span> Type of comedo

A pimple or zit is a kind of comedo that results from excess sebum and dead skin cells getting trapped in the pores of the skin. In its aggravated state, it may evolve into a pustule or papule. Pimples can be treated by acne medications, antibiotics, and anti-inflammatories prescribed by a physician, or various over the counter remedies purchased at a pharmacy.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Black salve</span> Ineffective and unsafe alternative medicine cancer treatment

Black salve, also known by the brand name Cansema, is an ineffective and unsafe alternative cancer treatment. The product is commonly classified as an escharotic—a topical paste which destroys skin tissue and leaves behind a scar called an eschar. Escharotics were widely used to treat skin lesions in the early 1900s, but have since been replaced by safer and more effective treatments. Escharotics, such as black salves, are currently advertised by some alternative medicine marketers as treatments for skin cancer, often with unsubstantiated testimonials and unsupported claims of effectiveness.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mitchel P. Goldman</span> American dermatologic surgeon (born 1955)

Mitchel P. Goldman, is an American dermatologic surgeon, cosmetic surgeon, dermatologist, and phlebologist, and the founder and director of Cosmetic Laser Dermatology. He is also a past president of the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery, the American College of Phlebology, the San Diego County Dermatology Society, and the Sonoran Dermatology Society.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Aquaphor</span> Brand of skin care ointments

Aquaphor is a brand of over-the-counter (OTC) skin care ointments manufactured by Beiersdorf Inc., an affiliate of Beiersdorf AG. Aquaphor is offered in four product ranges: There are two skin protectant ointments. Aquaphor Original Ointment, used as a compounding agent and Aquaphor Advanced Therapy Healing Ointment, sold in mass retail outlets. The other product ranges include: Aquaphor Lip Repair and Lip Repair + Protect SPF 30, and Aquaphor Baby.

The Baumann Skin Types system is a skin-type classification system defining 16 skin personalities. This skin-typing system was developed in 2004 by University of Miami dermatology professor Dr. Leslie Baumann, to subdivide research participants into specific phenotypes for research on skin types. She assigns binary values to four characteristics, so she defines sixteen "skin personalities", or "skin types". These have been used in genetic research aimed at identifying the genes that contribute to skin characteristics such as dryness, oiliness, aging, pigmentation, and sensitivity. The survey-based typing system combines these individual skin attributes into 16 personalities that allow researchers to improve their ability to identify various skin phenotypes and use that knowledge for patient selection for clinical research trials to recommend proper skincare ingredients and products, and to build skincare routines. The classification system has been adopted by estheticians, dermatologists, consumers, and retailers to match cosmeceutical ingredients and skin care products to specific skin types. The type assigned is determined by a self-completed questionnaire, marketed as the "Baumann Skin Type Indicator" (BSTI).

Leslie Baumann is an American dermatologist, author, skin-care expert, and researcher based in Miami, Florida. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997 and is the founder and CEO of the Baumann Cosmetic and Research Institute and CEO of Skin Type Solutions.

A Certified Organic Sunscreen, also known as Petrochemical-Free Sunscreen, is a third party certified sunscreen product consisting of certified and approved organic ingredients, with typically zinc oxide acting as the photo-protector. An organic sunscreen is verified and approved by a certifier to international or national organic standards, such as NSF/ANSI 305 and USDA organic, which define production and labelling requirements for personal care products containing organic ingredients. These standards are complemented by existing sunscreen regulatory bodies such as the FDA that regulate the efficacy of the sunscreen, safety and permitted ingredients. Generally speaking, sunscreen has photo-protective properties that reduce the risk of skin cancer and ageing with relation to the SPF value and proper application.

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