Obin | |
---|---|
Born | Josephine Werratie Komara 1955 (age 68–69) |
Occupation(s) | Textile and fashion designer |
Known for | Batik and other traditional Indonesian textiles. |
Spouse | Roni Siswandi (d.2013) |
Website | http://www.binhouse.com |
Obin, real name Josephine Komara, is a textile designer from Indonesia. [1] She is sometimes called a "national treasure" due to her passion for and promotion of traditional Indonesian batik techniques. [2] Her work has achieved worldwide recognition, with fellow Indonesian designers such as Edward Hutabarat (himself credited with the batik revival) and Ghea Panggabean describing her as the real authority and leader of the mid-2000s movement to update and modernise batik. [1] [3] Despite this, Obin describes herself as simply a tukang kain, or vendor of cloth, stating that the genuine artists and designers are the craftsmen who make the textiles retailed through Bin House, her business. [1] [4]
Born in Indonesia in 1955, Josephine Werratie Komara went to school in Hong Kong until she finished elementary school and then returned home, aged 14. [1] [3] [5] Until his death in 2013, Obin was married to an archaeologist and anthropologist named Roni Siswandi; they have one son, Erlangga (called 'Erlang'). [6] [1] [4] She is a self-taught textile designer who has never formally studied the subject, but taught herself through collecting, handling and examining fabrics, and seeing them made. [1]
Obin started out in the 1970s, whilst Indonesia was a developing country, as a vendor of furnishing fabrics, selling raw silks for lampshades and upholstery. [1] In the early 1980s she began to sell ikat-woven textiles, including shirts, using her research and knowledge of traditional fabrics to promote local cloth industries. [1] [4]
In 1985, while going over the antique batiks and textiles she had collected since the age of 17, Obin was inspired to explore the crafting techniques that had gone into them, and developed her own hand-weaving and printing methods to enable her to create her own original fabrics. [1] [7] She also questioned why, despite her love for traditional textiles and cloths, there were no new patterns and designs. [4] Through combining brand new motifs with traditional weaving techniques and methods using softer threads to create fabrics that could be batiked, Obin created completely unique yet totally Indonesian fabrics that did not rely on imported cotton and chiffons. [1] [4]
In 1986, Obin opened her first Bin House showroom in Menteng, an upper class area of Jakarta. [7] In 1989 she opened her first boutique in Japan. [1] By 2001, in addition to several Japanese outlets, there were Bin House galleries in Bali and Singapore along with the Menteng establishment. [4] [7] There is also a retail outlet in the Netherlands. [8]
By 2012, Obin employed over 1,000 artisan workers to completely hand-create her fabrics, many of whom had passed their skills down through the generations. [7] In addition to Japan, Singapore and Bali, Obin textiles are bought by traders and resold in Europe, Australia, the Middle East, and the United States, [1] where her work is more desirable than equivalent pieces from Vietnam or Thailand. [7] Due to their handcrafted nature, no two Obin pieces are identical. [7]
In 2010 Obin helped design uniforms made from traditional cloth for staff and cabin crew at Garuda, the national airline of Indonesia. [1] Although the kebaya-style blouse and skirt uniforms feature a traditional yet updated parang gondosuli batik design incorporating jasmine and garuda wings, these are printed rather than authentic wax-resist batik in order to ensure uniformity. [9]
By 2012, Obin's batiks were compared to designer handbags, with her shawls being worn by fashionable women to cocktail parties. [7] Previously, batik had been considered a dark, heavy and old-fashioned fabric that was only worn by politicians and their wives to formal functions, [7] [10] but due to the work of Obin and Edward Hutabarat, it had become a desirable and fashionable fabric. [1] [7]
Preserving the traditional skills and techniques of Indonesian textile production is extremely important to Obin, who describes the textiles produced under her name as "works of life", rather than works of art. [7] In some cases, exceptionally elaborate batiks can take up to a year and a half to complete, which means that the end product is expensive, but it is more important to Obin that her workers receive appropriate payment and appreciation of their skills. [7] Obin prefers to avoid cutting into her textiles, making them into sarongs and shawls so that their patterns are kept intact. [4] [7] Sometimes she asks buyers not to cut the fabrics, but instead to appreciate their craftsmanship, artistry and heritage techniques. [4] She has said "Batik is our heritage and we must preserve it." [3]
In October 2009, UNESCO recognised batik as an important part of Indonesia's heritage, naming it part of the world's "intangible cultural heritage". [10] This designation was controversial with some Malaysians taking offence and claiming that batik was as much part of their heritage as Indonesia's, although Indonesian designers such as Hutabarat, Obin and Sanchia Hamidjaja were cited as major players in the batik revival of a few years earlier, which combined contemporary updates with heritage technique. [10]
Obin's textiles are held by the Powerhouse Museum in Sydney, Australia, [8] and institutions in Amsterdam and Japan. [3] In 2010, the Korea Foundation hosted Wearable Art: Indonesian Batik Cloth, an exhibition of Bin House textiles, which was the first time that Korea had held such an exhibition. [11]
In a BBC interview in 2012, Obin stated her intention of opening a textile museum in Bali in 2013. [7] Museum Kain (literally, "cloth museum") formally opened on 20 November 2013 in the Beachwalk shopping mall in Kuta. [6] At the opening ceremony, Obin paid tribute to her late husband, whose idea the museum had been, and to her son, Erlang, who, after his father's death, took control to ensure that the plan went ahead. [6] [12] The museum, which is the first of its kind on the island, [6] is also the first museum in Indonesia to use the latest digital technology such as touchscreens as a way of presenting an authentic collection. [12]
Batik is a dyeing technique using wax resist. The term is also used to describe patterned textiles created with that technique. Batik is made by drawing or stamping wax on a cloth to prevent colour absorption during the dyeing process. This creates a patterned negative when the wax is removed from the dyed cloth. Artisans may create intricate coloured patterns with multiple cycles of wax application and dyeing. Patterns and motifs vary widely even within countries. Some pattern hold symbolic significance and are used only in certain occasions, while others were created to satisfy market demand and fashion trends.
Ikat is a dyeing technique from Southeast Asia used to pattern textiles that employs resist dyeing on the yarns prior to dyeing and weaving the fabric. In Southeast Asia, where it is the most widespread, ikat weaving traditions can be divided into two general groups of related traditions. The first is found among Daic-speaking peoples. The second, larger group is found among the Austronesian peoples and spread via the Austronesian expansion to as far as Madagascar. It is most prominently associated with the textile traditions of Indonesia in modern times, from where the term ikat originates. Similar unrelated dyeing and weaving techniques that developed independently are also present in other regions of the world, including India, Central Asia, Japan, Africa, and the Americas.
A sarong or a sarung is a large tube or length of fabric, often wrapped around the waist, worn in Southeast Asia, South Asia, Western Asia, Northern Africa, East Africa, West Africa, and on many Pacific islands. The fabric often employs woven plaid or checkered patterns or may be brightly colored by means of batik or ikat dyeing. Many modern sarongs have printed designs, often depicting animals or plants. Different types of sarongs are worn in different places in the world, notably the lungi in the Indian subcontinent and the izaar in the Arabian Peninsula.
The culture of Indonesia has been shaped by the interplay of indigenous customs and diverse foreign influences. With over 1,300 distinct ethnic groups, including significant Austronesian and Melanesian cultures, contributing to its rich traditions, languages, and customs, Indonesia is a melting pot of diversity. Positioned along ancient trade routes between the Far East, South Asia, and the Middle East, the country has absorbed cultural practices influenced by Hinduism, Buddhism, Confucianism, Islam, and Christianity. These influences have created a complex cultural tapestry that often differs from the original indigenous cultures.
A kebaya is an upper garment traditionally worn by women in Southeast Asia, notably in Brunei, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, and Southern Thailand. It is also worn in parts of southern Philippines and Cambodia.
Songket or sungkit is a tenun fabric that belongs to the brocade family of textiles of Brunei, Indonesia, and Malaysia. It is hand-woven in silk or cotton, and intricately patterned with gold or silver threads. The metallic threads stand out against the background cloth to create a shimmering effect. In the weaving process the metallic threads are inserted in between the silk or cotton weft (latitudinal) threads in a technique called supplementary weft weaving technique.
Resist dyeing (resist-dyeing) is a traditional method of dyeing textiles with patterns. Methods are used to "resist" or prevent the dye from reaching all the cloth, thereby creating a pattern and ground. The most common forms use wax, some type of paste made from starch or mud, or a mechanical resist that manipulates the cloth such as tying or stitching. Another form of resist involves using a dye containing a chemical agent that will repel another type of dye printed over the top. The best-known varieties today include tie-dye, batik, and ikat.
Stanley Ann Dunham was an American anthropologist who specialized in the economic anthropology and rural development of Indonesia. She was the mother of Barack Obama, the 44th president of the United States.
Pakaian is the term for clothing in Malaysia's national language. It is referring to things to wear such as shirts, pants, shoes etc. Since Malaysia is a multicultural nation: Malay, Chinese, Indian and hundreds of other indigenous groups of Malay Peninsula and Borneo, each has its own traditional and religious articles of clothing all of which are gender-specific and may be adapted to local influences and conditions. Previously, traditional clothes were worn daily. However, by excluding Baju Melayu, Baju Kurung many are now only worn on special occasions such as marriage ceremonies and cultural events.
Malaysian batik is batik textile art in Malaysia, especially on the east coast of Peninsular Malaysia. The most popular motifs are leaves and flowers. Malaysian batik depicting humans or animals are rare because Islam norms forbid animal images as decoration. However, the butterfly theme is a common exception. Malaysian batik is also famous for its geometrical designs, such as spirals. The method of Malaysian batik making is also quite different from those of Indonesian Javanese batik, the pattern is larger and simpler, it seldom or never uses canting to create intricate patterns and relies heavily on brush painting method to apply colours on fabrics. The colours also tend to be lighter and more vibrant than the deep coloured Javanese batik.
Tapis is a traditional Tenun style and also refers to resulting cloth that originated from Lampung, Indonesia. It consists of a striped, naturally-coloured cloth embroidered with warped and couched gold thread. Traditionally using floral motifs, it has numerous variations. It is generally worn ceremonially, although it can be used as a decoration. It is considered one of the symbols of Lampung and Lampungese.
The Textile Museum is a museum in Palmerah, West Jakarta, Indonesia. The museum houses a collection of textiles from various islands in Indonesia.
Iwan Tirta was an Indonesian batik fashion designer. Tirta trained as a lawyer, but became an internationally known designer. He is credited with beginning the early revival of batik design during the 1970s and 1980s. He also became an Indonesian and Javanese cultural advocate, as well as a food consultant, later in his career.
The national costume of Indonesia is the national attire that represents the Republic of Indonesia. It is derived from Indonesian culture and Indonesian traditional textile traditions. Today the most widely recognized Indonesian national attires include batik and kebaya, although originally those attires mainly belong within the island of Java and Bali, most prominently within Javanese, Sundanese and Balinese culture. Since Java has been the political and population center of Indonesia, folk attire from the island has become elevated into national status.
Balinese textiles are reflective of the historical traditions of Bali, Indonesia. Bali has been historically linked to the major courts of Java before the 10th century; and following the defeat of the Majapahit kingdom, many of the Javanese aristocracy fled to Bali and the traditions were continued. Bali therefore may be seen as a repository not only of its own arts but those of Java in the pre-Islamic 15th century. Any attempt to definitively describe Balinese textiles and their use is doomed to be incomplete. The use of textile is a living tradition and so is in constant change. It will also vary from one district to another. For the most part old cloth are not venerated for their age. New is much better. In the tropics cloth rapidly deteriorates and so virtue is generated by replacing them.
National Batik Day is an Indonesian cultural day for celebrating batik – the traditional cloth of Indonesia. It is celebrated on October 2 and marks the anniversary of when the UNESCO inscribed batik as a Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity in 2009.
Kemben is an Indonesian female torso wrap historically common in Java, Bali, and other parts of the Indonesian archipelago. It is made by wrapping a piece of kain (clothes), either plain, batik printed, velvet, or any type of fabrics, covering the chest wrapped around the woman's torso.
Tenun is an artful Indonesian technique of making a fabric by weaving different colours of threads. Tenun belongs to one of the typical Indonesian cultural arts produced by hand skills using traditional looms. The word Tenun itself has a high meaning, historical value, and technique in terms of colors, motifs, and types of materials and threads used and each region has its own characteristics. In addition, Tenun is also one of Indonesia's original cultural heritages that is still maintained and preserved to this day.
Betawi Museum, is a cultural museum located on RM. Kahfi II Street in the Jagakarsa district of Jakarta, Indonesia. The museum showcases collections related to the activities of the Betawi ethnic group.
Batik plays multiple roles in the culture of Indonesia. The wax resist-dyeing technique has been used for centuries in Java, and has been adopted in varying forms in other parts of the country. Java is home to several batik museums.