The classification system defines who is eligible to compete in paraclimbing and groups athletes with eligible impairments into sports classes. Athletes are placed into a sport class based on how much their impairment affects their ability to carry out the fundamental activities in paraclimbing.[1]
Sports classification for competitions differentiates paraclimbing from adaptive climbing in general.
Participation and classification
Paraclimbing includes multiple categories based on impairment type and functionality. The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) governs classification rules, which are also used by USA Climbing (USAC), the governing body for paraclimbing in the United States.
Athletes competing in IFSC-sanctioned events must undergo classification to be placed in an official sport class. The USA Climbing Para Climbing classification system follows the IFSC classification rules, which are updated annually.[3]
Competition formats
In competition climbing, there are three climbing formats: lead, speed, and boulder. Lead is the dominant format.[4] Competitors are ranked based on the highest point reached before falling. Competitors try unknown routes until they fall. If multiple athletes reach the same height, rankings are determined by previous round results or climbing time.[4]
In USA Climbing Para Climbing Nationals, competition follows a two-round format:[5]
Day 1: Qualification round
Day 2: Onsight final round
Competitors may choose to compete in official IFSC-classified categories or in the Open category, which does not require classification.
National and international competitions
USA Climbing National Championships
Each year, USA Climbing hosts the Para Climbing National Championships, which serves as the selection event for U.S. athletes aiming to compete internationally. To participate, climbers must have a USA Climbing Para Climbing Membership and be classified into an official category. Alternatively, athletes can compete in the Open category without classification.[6]
IFSC World Cups and World Championships
The IFSC Paraclimbing World Cup is held annually, with events in Europe, North America, and Asia. Every two years, the IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships take place alongside the IFSC Climbing World Championships.
Athletes who perform well at USA Climbing Para Climbing Nationals are eligible to receive invitations to IFSC World Cups and World Championships.[7]
Paralympic inclusion
In January 2023, the International Paralympic Committee (IPC) shortlisted paraclimbing for the 2028 Summer Paralympics in Los Angeles. On June 13, 2024, the LA28 organizing committee officially selected paraclimbing for inclusion.[8] This marks the sport’s debut at the Paralympics.
History
The IFSC has been hosting paraclimbing competitions since the first international event in 2006 in Yekaterinburg, Russia. The sport grew, and a regular circuit was added to the IFSC calendar in 2010. IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships have taken place since 2011. The IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships run alongside the IFSC Climbing World Championships, promoting para athletes on the same stage as other athletes.[9][10]
In June 2024, the LA28 organizing committee announced that paraclimbing would be included in the 2028 Summer Paralympics, marking the sport's debut on the Paralympic stage.[12]
Development
In October 2018, the IFSC announced a plan for developing paraclimbing.[9] The IFSC Strategic Plan 2020–2028 includes plans to "professionalise paraclimbing to meet IPC standards and aim at its inclusion in future Paralympic Games editions, starting from Los Angeles 2028."[13]
In 2023, three Paraclimbing World Cups (Innsbruck in Austria, Swiss venue Villars, and an unspecified location in the United States) and the World Championships[14] (Bern, Switzerland) were planned.[15]
In January 2023, the IPC shortlisted paraclimbing as one of two options for new sports at the 2028 Summer Paralympics, deferring approval to the Games' organising committee.[16] In June 2024, the LA 2028 organising committee selected paraclimbing for inclusion.[17][18]
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