Po | |
Korean name | |
---|---|
Hangul | 포 |
Hanja | |
Revised Romanization | po |
McCune–Reischauer | p'o |
Po is a general term that describes an outer robe or overcoat in Korean traditional clothing.
There are two general types of po,the Korean type and the Chinese type. [1]
The Korean type is a common style from the Three Kingdoms of Korea period,and it is used in modern day. [2] [1] A belt was used until it was replaced by a ribbon during late Joseon dynasty. Durumagi is a variety of po that was worn as protection against cold. It had been widely worn as an outer robe over jeogori and baji. It is also called jumagui,juchaui,or juui. [3] [2] [4]
The Chinese type is different styles of po from China. Starting from North-South states period,they were used through history until nation-wide adoption of the Korean type durumagi in 1895. [1]
The hanbok is a traditional clothing of the Korean people. The term hanbok is primarily used by South Koreans;North Koreans refer to the clothes as chosŏn-ot. The clothes are also worn in the Korean diaspora,especially by Koreans in China.
Gwanbok is a Korean term which was borrowed from the Chinese terms guanfu and guanfu. The term gwanbok is a collective term which refers to historical official attire,which was bestowed by the government court,including Chinese courts of various dynasties. The guanfu (冠服) system was a court attire system in China which also formed part of the Hanfu system. This system was them spread to neighbouring countries and was adopted in Korea since ancient times in different periods through the ritual practice of bestowal of clothing. Acknowledgement through bestowed robes and crowns (冠服) from the Emperor of China,who held hegemony over East Asia,would give support to Korean Kings and successors,as being the authentic rulers of their country as well as confirmed the political status of the Korean kingdom in the rest of the Sinosphere. The gwanbok system in Korea was different for each kingdom and changed throughout different periods. For example,initially given by the Chinese court in ritual practice,successive gwanbok were more often than not locally manufactured in Korea with different colours and adopted into hanbok. The gwanbok,which was used as the uniform of court officials,formed part of the gwanbok system and was used like the suit is nowadays.
Jeogori or Tseogori is a basic upper garment of the hanbok,a traditional Korean garment,which has been worn by both men and women. Men usually wear the jeogori with a baji or pants while women wear the jeogori with chima,or skirts. It covers the arms and upper part of the wearer's body.
Dopo is a variety of po,or overcoat in hanbok,which was first worn in the middle of the Joseon since the 16th century. The dopo was mostly worn by male Confucian scholars called seonbi during the Joseon period. It was also worn by Kings and princes and government officers. The dopo held a strong Confucianism value. It was worn as an everyday outer garment by Neo-Confucian scholars,who wore it as an official form of clothing or as a ritual clothing. It was also an ordinary robe worn by the court officials. Since the 1894 reform,all varieties of po with wide sleeves,including the dopo,were prohibited to be worn by King Gojong and instead people had to wear the durumagi.
Durumagi is a variety of po,or overcoat,in hanbok,the traditional Korean attire. It is a form of outerwear which is usually worn as the topmost layer of clothing,over a jeogori (jacket) and baji (pants). It also goes by the names jumagui,juchaui,or juui,
Kkachi durumagi is a children's colorful overcoat in hanbok,traditional Korean clothing,which was worn on Seollal,New Year's Day in the Lunar calendar. It was worn mostly by young boys and literally means "a magpie's overcoat". The garment is also called obangjang durumagi which denotes "an overcoat of five directions". It was worn over jeogori and jokki while the wearer could put jeonbok over it. Kkachi durumagi was also worn along with headgear such as bokgeon,hogeon for young boys or gulle for young girls.
Dangui,also called dang-jeogori,dang-jeoksam,dang-hansam,danggoui,and samja,is a type of jeogori for women in hanbok,the Korean traditional clothing,which was worn for ceremonial occasions in the palace during the Joseon dynasty. It was typically a garment item reserved for the upper class and commoners of this period would rarely see anyone in this garment. It was worn as a simple official outfit or for small national ceremonies while court ladies wore it as a daily garment.
The wonsam is a female ceremonial topcoat in hanbok. It originated from China,and it was worn by queens,high-ranking court ladies,and royalty during the Joseon dynasty of Korea (1392–1910). It is also called 'daeui','daesu' and 'jangsam'. The queen,princess consort,and consort to the first son of the crown prince wore it as a soryebok,a robe for small ceremonies,while wives of high officers and sanggung wore it as daeryebok,a robe for major ceremonies. It was also worn by commoners on their wedding ceremony.
Chima is a generic term for the skirt worn together with jeogori,or a short jacket in hanbok,Korean traditional clothing. It is also referred to as sang or gun in hanja in the Korean language.
Zhiduo,also known as zhishen when it is decorated with outside pendulums,and haiqing,refers to two types of traditional changyi or paofu which were worn as outer robes by men in the broad sense;i.e. the casual zhiduo in Hanfu and the priests’zhiduo,in the broad sense. As a specific term,the zhiduo refers to the former. The zhiduo was also called daopao by Wang Zhishen in the Ming dynasty although the daopao refers to another kind of paofu. Nowadays,the haiqing is sometimes referred as daopao. In present days Taiwan,the haiqing is also worn by the Zhenyi Taoist priests. The term "haiqing" can also be a specific term which refers to the long black or yellow robe worn by Buddhist monks.
Banbi,also known as banxiu and sometimes referred as beizi or half-beizi before the term beizi eventually came to refer to a long-sleeved beizi in the Song dynasty,and referred as dahu in the Yuan dynasty,is an upper garment item in Hanfu. The banbi is in the form of a waistcoat or outerwear with short sleeves,which could either be worn over or under a long-sleeved ruqun. The style of its collar varies;it can also be secured at the front either with ties or a metal button.
A yuanlingshan is a type of round-collared upper garment in the traditional Chinese style of clothing known as Hanfu;it is also referred to as a yuanlingpao or a panlingpao when used as a robe. The yuanlingshan and yuanlingpao were both developed under the influence of ancient Chinese clothing,known as Hufu,originating from the Donghu people during the early Han dynasty and later by the Wuhu,including the Xianbei people,during the Six Dynasties period. The yuanlingpao is an article of formal attire primarily worn by men,although in certain dynasties,such as the Tang dynasty,it was also fashionable for women to wear. In the Tang dynasty,the yuanlingpao could be transformed into the fanlingpao using buttons.
Daopao,also known as xuezi when used as a Xifu during Chinese opera performances,and deluo when it is blue in colour,is a traditional form of paofu in Hanfu and is also one of the most distinctive form of traditional clothing for the Han Chinese. The daopao was one of the most common traditional form of outer robe worn by men. Daopao literally means "Taoist robe";however,despite its name,the daopao were and is worn by men,and did not imply that its wearer had some affiliation to taoism. The daopao can be dated back to at least the Ming dynasty but had actually been worn since the Song dynasty. Initially the daopao was a form of casual clothing which was worn by the middle or lower class in the Ming dynasty. In the middle and late Ming,it was one of the most common form of robes worn by men as casual clothing. The daopao was also a popular formal wear by the Ming dynasty scholars in their daily lives. It was also the daily clothing for the literati scholars in the Ming dynasty. In the late Ming,it was also a popular form of clothing among the external officials and eunuchs sometimes wore it. The daopao was also introduced in Korea during the Joseon period,where it became known as dopo and was eventually localized in its current form.
Panling lanshan (盤領襴衫),also referred as lanshan (襴衫),is a traditional Chinese attire for men. It is a specific form of round collar robe,known as yuanlingpao,which is characterized with the use of hem,called hanglan (横襕),also referred as lan (襕)). The panling lanshan was a new type of garment,developed in the Northern and Southern dynasties through the localization of the round-collar garments which had been introduced by the ethnic minorities,such as the Xianbei. Panling lanshan continued to be worn in the Tang Dynasty. The panling lanshan along with the futou was used as the Tang dynasty attire of scholars and officials. The scholars' attire in the succeeding dynasties followed the style of the panling lanshan of the Tang dynasty. It is also a formal attire worn by scholars and students (生員) taking the imperial examination in Ming Dynasty.
A jang-ot,also known as janot,jang-eui,or jang-ui,is a type of po worn by women of the Joseon Dynasty period as a headdress or veil to cover their faces by the mid-18th century. They were mostly worn by commoners but not exclusively. Jang-ot was originally a form of men's po called jang-ui,which was worn in 15th century. The jang-ui started to be worn by women as an overcoat in early Joseon,even becoming a popular fashion item for women of high status. It was previously one of the most representative women's overcoats;it was worn as a women's overcoat when they would leave their house until the 17th century.
The Round collar robe,also called yuanlingpao and yuanlingshan in China,danryeong in Korea,was a style of paofu,a Chinese robe,worn in ancient China,which was long enough to cover the entire body of its wearer. The Chinese yuanlingpao was developed under the influences of the Hufu worn by the Donghu people and by the Wuhu. Depending on time period,the Chinese yuanlingpao also had some traces of influences from the Hufu worn by the Sogdian. The Chinese yuanlingpao continued to evolve,developing distinctive Chinese characteristics with time and lost its Hufu connotation. It eventually became fully integrated in the Hanfu system for the imperial and court dress attire. Under the influence of ancient China,the Chinese yuanlingpao was adopted by the rest of the East Asian cultural sphere.
Paofu,also known as pao for short,is a form of a long,one-piece robe in Hanfu,which is characterized by the natural integration of the upper and lower part of the robe which is cut from a single fabric. The term is often used to refer to the jiaolingpao and the yuanlingpao. The jiaolingpao was worn since the Zhou dynasty and became prominent in the Han dynasty. The jiaolingpao was a unisex,one-piece robe;while it was worn mainly by men,women could also wear it. It initially looked similar to the ancient shenyi;however,these two robes are structurally different from each other. With time,the ancient shenyi disappeared while the paofu evolved gaining different features in each succeeding dynasties;the paofu continues to be worn even in present day. The term paofu refers to the "long robe" worn by ancient Chinese,and can include several form of Chinese robes of various origins and cuts,including Changshan,Qipao,Shenyi,Tieli,Zhisun,Yesa.
Dahu was a form of robe/jacket which originated in the Ming dynasty. In Ming dynasty,the dahu was either a new type of banbi or a sleeveless jacket,whose designs was influenced by the Mongol Yuan dynasty clothing.
Ru,sometimes referred to as shan,ao,and yi,is a form of traditional Chinese upper garment,or coat,or jacket,which typically has a right closure;however,they may also have a front central opening. It is traditional everyday wear for women of the Han Chinese ethnic group. It can be worn in combination with a skirt in a style called ruqun,or a pair of trousers in a style called shanku.
Jikryeong,sometimes written as jikryung or jingnyeong and also known as jikryeongpo,is a type of po with a straight neckline. It could be worn as an outwear by men and was sometimes worn under the danryeong. The jikryeong was worn in ordinary times and was worn all year round. It was also worn as a mourning attire during the Joseon period. Following the Japanese invasion (1592–1598),its usage as an outerwear decreased and was more often used as an undergarment. After the latter half of the 17th century,the jikryeong was turned into an inner lining for the danryeong,thus turning to a single lined garment.