Raising card

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Dried teasel fruit pods Dipsacus fullonum MHNT.BOT.2005.0.269.jpg
Dried teasel fruit pods

A raising card is used in the process of gigging, or producing the nap of cloth. [1] Originally, only woolen cloth was raised, but now gigging is used on rayon, silk, and cotton fabrics to create a soft, lustrous nap. [2]

Raising is one of the last steps in the finishing process for cloth. It was first done using the dried fruit pod of a teasel plant, then technology moved on and raising cards were created. A raising card is a brush with metal bristles, similar to hand cards and to the original teasel pod. [2]

A gigging machine Meyers b13 s0606 b1.png
A gigging machine

The process was mechanized during the industrial revolution, and the raising machine (the gig-mill) looks and works much like the large carding machines, in that it has a large main roller with several small ones positioned around it. The small ones rotate quickly, in either the same direction or opposite of that of the cloth.

After the raising process, the nap is uneven. In order to gain an even surface, the nap is then sheared, or cut, to the desired height.

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A gig-mill was type of raising machine that used teasels to produce a nap on cloth. Examples of the results of gigging are woolen fabrics such as chinchilla, beaver cloth, and melton. The process involved gradual teasing of the surface to raise the nap. Spelling in some localities is "Gigg".

Shearing is a kind of mechanical finish in which the appearance of the fabric is enhanced by cutting the loops or raised surface to a uniform and even height. The machine may have a spiral blade similar to a grass cutting machine. A Shearing machine can cut the loop or the pile to a desired level. Shearing was most commonly used to make woolens and worsted materials. It was a part of dry finishing of woolen and worsted goods. Previously, shearing was also a component of gigging or napping; when partially produced goods were exposed to shear in order to improve the impact of gigging or napping, the process was referred to as "cropping."

References

  1. Baker, William Henry (1901). "Clothes dictionary;". archive.org. Chicago, Ill., U.S.A., Cahn, Wampold & co.
  2. 1 2 Joseph, Marjory L. (1992). "Joseph's introductory textile science". archive.org. Fort Worth : Harcourt Brace Jovanovich College Publishers.