The Red Dress is an international collaborative embroidery project, created from 2009 to 2022 and coordinated by Somerset-based British artist Kirstie Macleod. [1] [2] [3] [4] [5]
The project began with a commission from the British Council in Dubai, [6] and has since been supported by Arts Council England, the British Embassy in Pristina, and many donations from individuals including a 2020 Crowdfunder. [7]
The dress was embroidered by 343 embroiderers (336 women and 7 men) from 46 countries. 136 of the embroiderers were paid for their work and receive a share of exhibition earnings; the others were volunteer participants at events and exhibitions. It is made up of 84 panels of burgundy silk dupion and weighs 20 kilograms (44 lb). [7] [8] Macleod has said that "The silhouette of this dress is intentionally strong and empowered. I've used military pattern cuts along the shoulders and front bodice, but I wanted it to read in a very feminine way. Every line is curved and it's fully corseted. I think it's got a regal presence." [2] She chose red because "...you can't ignore red. I wanted it to be a real statement – and have a relationship with women's cycles, love, anger, passion.", adding "It's a practical colour as well as it can withstand travel!". [2]
The dress has been exhibited around the world. Early exhibitions involved Macleod sitting wearing the dress while embroidering it, as an art installation: "When it was initially displayed, I was wearing it, sitting inside a cube in which I would live-embroider as a performance for four hours at a time." It was later exhibited on a stand to show its entirety. It has been shown at venues including the Royal School of Needlework (UK), [1] and the National Library of Kosovo in Pristina. As of 2022 [update] plans for future venues include Australia, Canada, Columbia, Egypt, Pakistan, South Africa, and the United States; [9] an exhibition at the Museo de Arte Popular in Mexico in 2020 was cancelled because of the COVID-19 pandemic. [8]
Macleod was awarded first prize for the dress in the 2012 Premio Valcellina (Valcellina Award), an Italian international competition open to fibre artists under the age of 35 and which that year had the theme "Mixing cultures". [10]
The project was originally called Barocco, [11] the Portuguese term for an imperfect pearl, which Macleod said indicated that "it was something special but stuck inside a structure"; she changed it to "The Red Dress" as a more widely understood and easily pronounced title. [2]
Embroidery is the art of decorating fabric or other materials using a needle to stitch thread or yarn. Embroidery may also incorporate other materials such as pearls, beads, quills, and sequins. In modern days, embroidery is usually seen on hats, clothing, blankets, and handbags. Embroidery is available in a wide variety of thread or yarn colour. It is often used to personalize gifts or clothing items.
The Royal School of Needlework (RSN) is a hand embroidery school in the United Kingdom, founded in 1872 and based at Hampton Court Palace since 1987.
Ann Macbeth was a British embroiderer, designer, teacher and author. She was a member of the Glasgow Movement where she was an associate of Margaret MacDonald and Charles Rennie Mackintosh, and many other 'Glasgow Girls'. She was also an active suffragette and designed banners for suffragists and suffragettes movements.
Crewel embroidery, or crewelwork, is a type of surface embroidery using wool. A wide variety of different embroidery stitches are used to follow a design outline applied to the fabric. The technique is at least a thousand years old.
Fiber art refers to fine art whose material consists of natural or synthetic fiber and other components, such as fabric or yarn. It focuses on the materials and on the manual labor on the part of the artist as part of the works' significance, and prioritizes aesthetic value over utility.
Broderie anglaise is a whitework needlework technique incorporating features of embroidery, cutwork and needle lace that became associated with England, due to its popularity there in the 19th century.
Mary "May" Morris was an English artisan, embroidery designer, jeweller, socialist, and editor. She was the younger daughter of the Pre-Raphaelite artist and designer William Morris and his wife and artists' model, Jane Morris.
Whitework embroidery is any embroidery technique in which the stitch and the foundation fabric are of same color. Styles of whitework embroidery include most drawn thread work, broderie anglaise, Hardanger embroidery, Hedebo embroidery, Mountmellick embroidery, reticella and Schwalm. Whitework embroidery is one of the techniques employed in heirloom sewing for blouses, christening gowns, baby bonnets, and other small articles. It has been used extensively on household and ecclesiastical linen, as decoration. It is often found on traditional regional and national costume, particularly on shirts, aprons and head coverings.
Leon Conrad is a British polymath: writer, story structure consultant, educator, and specialist in historic needlework techniques known particularly for historically-styled blackwork embroidery designs.
Goldwork is the art of embroidery using metal threads. It is particularly prized for the way light plays on it. The term "goldwork" is used even when the threads are imitation gold, silver, or copper. The metal wires used to make the threads have never been entirely gold; they have always been gold-coated silver or cheaper metals, and even then the "gold" often contains a very low percent of real gold. Most metal threads are available in silver and sometimes copper as well as gold; some are available in colors as well.
Ukrainian embroidery occupies an important place among the various branches of Ukrainian decorative arts. Embroidery has a rich history in Ukraine, and has long appeared in Ukrainian folk dress as well as played a part in traditional Ukrainian weddings and other celebrations. Appearing all across the country, Ukrainian embroidery varies depending on the region of origin. From Poltava, Kyiv, and Chernihiv in the east, to Volyn and Polissia in the northwest, to Bukovina, and the Hutsul area in the southwest, the designs have a long history which defines its ornamental motifs and compositions, as well as its favorite choice of colors and types of stitches.
English embroidery includes embroidery worked in England or by English people abroad from Anglo-Saxon times to the present day. The oldest surviving English embroideries include items from the early 10th century preserved in Durham Cathedral and the 11th century Bayeux Tapestry, if it was worked in England. The professional workshops of Medieval England created rich embroidery in metal thread and silk for ecclesiastical and secular uses. This style was called Opus Anglicanum or "English work", and was famous throughout Europe.
The Oxburgh Hangings are needlework bed hangings that are held in Oxburgh Hall in Norfolk, England, made by Mary, Queen of Scots and Bess of Hardwick, during the period of Mary's captivity in England.
Magna Carta (An Embroidery) is a 2015 work by English installation artist Cornelia Parker. It is an embroidered representation of the complete text and images of an online encyclopedia article for Magna Carta, as it appeared on the English Wikipedia on 15 June 2014, the 799th anniversary of the document.
Embroidery was an important art in the Islamic world from the beginning of Islam until the Industrial Revolution disrupted traditional ways of life.
Caroline Townsend (1854-1889) was an American designer and embroiderer, best known for her design work at Tiffany & Co. and as the principal designer at Associated Artists.
Elizabeth (Bessie) Burden was a British embroiderer and teacher. She was a member of the Arts and Crafts Movement, and worked for the embroidery department of Morris, Marshall, Faulkner & Co. She was the sister of Jane Morris and sister-in-law of the artist, designer and poet, William Morris.
Louisa Pesel (1870–1947) was an English embroiderer, educator and textile collector. She was born in Bradford, and studied textile design at the National Art Training School, causing her to become interested in decorative stitchery. She served as the director of the Royal Hellenic School of Needlework and Lace in Athens, Greece, from 1903 to 1907. Pesel served as the first president of the Embroiderers' Guild. She produced samplers for the Victoria and Albert (V&A) Museum and cushions, kneelers, alms bags and a lectern carpet for Winchester Cathedral. She collected textiles extensively, and following her death in Winchester in 1947, her collection went to the University of Leeds.
Winsome Douglas (1919-2016) was a British embroiderer and teacher active in the United Kingdom in the 1950s and 1960s. She was born in Hartlepool in County Durham in 1919, and died at the age of 97 on 28 December 2016 in Hartlepool.
Balochi needlework is a type of handicraft made by the Baloch people. It is considered a heritage art, has been recognized by UNESCO, and it sells internationally. The Baloch people are native to the Balochistan region of South and Western Asia, encompassing the countries of Pakistan, Iran, and Afghanistan.