Soo Catwoman | |
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Born | Susan Lucas |
Occupation(s) | Actor, model |
Susan Lucas, better known as Soo Catwoman, was a member of London's early punk subculture. [1] Lucas was active in the London punk scene between 1976 and 1978, where she became a muse of photographer Bob Gruen and befriended the members of the Sex Pistols. Her distinctive, cat-influenced hairstyle is an iconic image within punk, and has led to her being featured in publications including the Guardian and News of the World . Her image has influenced other pop culture figures such as Keith Flint, and fashion designers including Junya Watanabe, Chanel, Obey and Mugler.
She began developing her distinctive hairstyle in 1972, when she began to spike up the sides of her hair in reference to Bride of Frankenstein, while also having a pink-striped fringe. Displeased with always having to style this hair, in 1976 she had the middle of her head shaved in an Ealing barbershop. [2] She used Vicks VapoRub to style this cut. [3] This haircut led to her and Marco Pirroni being approached by a woman in summer 1976 to join Club Louise, [4] a lesbian club on Poland Street, where she befriended the members of London's early punk scene. [5] It was also at the club that she also met photographer Bob Gruen, whom she soon became a muse for. [2]
In the following years, Lucas became an increasingly prominent figure within the scene, being featured on the front cover of punk zines Society Today and Society Today, bands' t-shirts, record sleeves, posters, flyers and was used by some mainstream news publications as an example of punk's effect on the youth. [2] One prominent example of this was a few weeks before the 100 Club Punk Special, when Lucas along with Simone Thomas, Debbie Wilson and Big Sharon were approached on Park Lane by a photographer and paid £15 to be photographed. These photos were then published in a Sunday issue of the News of the World as a part of a moral panic article claiming the four were prostitutes. [6] She was particularly close with Sex Pistols members John Lydon and Sid Vicious, [4] sharing a flat with Vicious during this period. [2] Lucas was frequently pictured by Ray Stevenson posing with members of the original fans of the Sex Pistols known as the Bromley Contingent such as Siouxsie Sioux, Steven Severin and Billy Idol. [7] While she was also associated with the Bromley Contingent by all the journalists, she later claimed not to have been a member. [8] [2] By 1978, following the dissolution of the Sex Pistols, she became less involved in the punk scene. [9]
In 1979, [10] she briefly joined the Bradford band the Invaders, initially providing backing vocals; she also sang the lead on the band's second single "Backstreet Romeo" from their 1980 album Test Card, release by Polydor. She is also featured on the cover of band's first single "Magic Mirror" from the 1980 Magic Mirror 7". [10]
Lucas's two children Dion October Lucas and Shem Lucas are both musicians. [11] [12]
As punk enter mainstream knowledge, Lucas became one of its most iconic images, [13] [14] with NME crediting her as one of the creators of punk fashion. [15] In The Filth and the Fury , John Lydon singles her out among the early London punks, citing her "skill, style, and bravery". [16] In 1980, she was portrayed by Judy Croll in the Julien Temple directed Sex Pistol's mockumentary the Great Rock 'n' Roll Swindle , [17] and in the FX miniseries Pistol (2022), portrayed by Iris Law. [18]
Lucas's fashion style has been referenced by fashion boutiques and designers including Junya Watanabe, Chanel, Obey and Mugler. [2] Her distinctive hairstyle influenced the Prodigy's Keith Flint to adopt a similar haircut in the 1990s, which in turn briefly became popular during 2021 under the name "hair horns". [19]
Appearances
Portrayals
Punk rock is a music genre that emerged in the mid-1970s. Rooted in 1950s rock and roll and 1960s garage rock, punk bands rejected the corporate nature of mainstream 1970s rock music. They typically produced short, fast-paced songs with hard-edged melodies and singing styles with stripped-down instrumentation. Lyricism in punk typically revolves around anti-establishment and anti-authoritarian themes. Punk embraces a DIY ethic; many bands self-produce recordings and distribute them through independent labels.
The Sex Pistols are an English punk rock band formed in London in 1975. Although their initial career lasted just two and a half years, they became one of the most culturally influential acts in popular music. The band initiated the punk movement in the United Kingdom and inspired many later punk, post-punk and alternative rock musicians, while their clothing and hairstyles were a significant influence on the early punk image.
Punk fashion is the clothing, hairstyles, cosmetics, jewellery, and body modifications of the punk counterculture. Punk fashion varies widely, ranging from Vivienne Westwood designs to styles modeled on bands like The Exploited to the dressed-down look of North American hardcore. The distinct social dress of other subcultures and art movements, including glam rock, skinheads, greasers, and mods have influenced punk fashion. Punk fashion has likewise influenced the styles of these groups, as well as those of popular culture. Many punks use clothing as a way of making a statement.
Malcolm Robert Andrew McLaren was an English fashion designer and music manager. He was a promoter and a manager for punk rock and new wave bands such as New York Dolls, Sex Pistols, Adam and the Ants, and Bow Wow Wow, and was an early commercial architect of the punk subculture.
Simon John Ritchie, better known by his stage name Sid Vicious, was an English musician, best known as the second bassist for the punk rock band Sex Pistols. Despite dying in 1979 at the age of 21, he remains an icon of the punk subculture; one of his friends noted that he embodied "everything in punk that was dark, decadent and nihilistic."
The Bromley Contingent were a group of followers of the Sex Pistols. The name was coined by Melody Maker journalist Caroline Coon, after the town of Bromley where some of them lived. They helped popularise the fashion of the early UK punk movement.
The 100 Club Punk Special was a two-day event held at the 100 Club venue in Oxford Street, London, England, on 20 and 21 September 1976. The gig showcased eight punk rock bands, most of which were unsigned. The bands in attendance were each associated with the then evolving punk rock music scene of the United Kingdom. Historically, the event has become seen as marking a watershed moment for punk rock, as it began to move from the underground and emerge into the mainstream music scene.
Julien Temple is a British film, documentary and music video director. He began his career with short films featuring the Sex Pistols, and has continued with various off-beat projects, including The Great Rock 'n' Roll Swindle, Absolute Beginners and a documentary film about Glastonbury.
The Great Rock 'n' Roll Swindle, also known as The Great Rock and Roll Swindle, is a 1980 British mockumentary film directed by Julien Temple and produced by Don Boyd and Jeremy Thomas. It centres on the British punk rock band Sex Pistols and, most prominently, their manager Malcolm McLaren.
Sex was a boutique run by Vivienne Westwood and her then-partner Malcolm McLaren at 430 King's Road, London between 1974 and 1976. It specialised in clothing that defined the look of the punk movement.
Who Killed Bambi? was to be the first film featuring the punk rock band the Sex Pistols, and was due to be released in 1978. Russ Meyer and then Jonathan Kaplan were due to direct from a script by Roger Ebert and Pistols' manager Malcolm McLaren.
Bernard Rhodes is a band manager, designer, studio owner, record producer and songwriter who was integral to the development of the punk rock scene in the United Kingdom from the middle 1970s. He is most associated with two of the UK's best known and influential punk bands, the Sex Pistols and The Clash. According to John Lydon, Rhodes was responsible for discovering him in the Kings Road and arranging the audition which led to his joining the Sex Pistols. Rhodes introduced Joe Strummer to Mick Jones and Paul Simonon, who with Keith Levene then formed The Clash.
Stephen John Harrington, known professionally as Steve Strange, was a Welsh singer and nightclub host and promoter. Strange began his career in several short-lived punk bands of the late 1970s. Quickly becoming disaffected by the British punk scene, he became one of the most influential figures behind the New Romantic subcultural movement of the late 1970s and early 1980s, which spawned the Blitz Kids.
The history of the punk subculture involves the history of punk rock, the history of various punk ideologies, punk fashion, punk visual art, punk literature, dance, and punk film. Since emerging in the United States, the United Kingdom and Australia in the mid-1970s, the punk subculture has spread around the globe and evolved into a number of different forms. The history of punk plays an important part in the history of subcultures in the 20th century.
The Rachel haircut, commonly known as simply "The Rachel", is an eponymous hairstyle popularized by American actress Jennifer Aniston. Named after Rachel Green, the character she played on the American sitcom Friends (1994–2004), Aniston debuted the haircut during the show's first season, and continued to wear it throughout its second season while the series was nearing peak popularity. Designed by Aniston's hairstylist Chris McMillan to repair her damaged hair and grow out her bangs, "The Rachel" is a voluminous shoulder-length haircut, with several distinct layers that frame and turn outwards from its wearer's face. It has been described as a variation on both the shag and bob haircuts.
Pamela Rooke, was an English model and actress known for her work with Vivienne Westwood and the Sex boutique in the Kings Road area of London in the mid-1970s, and for attending many of the early Sex Pistols performances. Her style and dress sense—a bleached platinum-blonde bouffant hairdo with dark raccoon-like eye make-up—made her a highly visible icon of the London punk subculture. Along with Johnny Rotten, Soo Catwoman and Siouxsie Sioux, she is credited with creating the London punk look.
The wings haircut, also known the Mod haircut, Mop top, flippies, flow, Justin Bieber haircut, or skater hair is a popular hairstyle used in the skateboarding, surfer, mod, and preppy community. Typically long, the style can range from long and drooping below the eyes, to a shorter length. The haircut is typically wavy and, if straight, the length comes to halfway down the ears. Instead of lying on the wearer's ears, the hair flips up and comes straight out like an airplane wing, hence the name. The hairstyle was popular among men in the 1960s, 1970s, mid-late 2000s, early 2010s and 2020s.
Anti-fashion is an umbrella term for various styles of dress that are explicitly contrary to the fashion of the day. Anti-fashion styles may represent an attitude of indifference or may arise from political or practical goals which make fashion a secondary priority. The term is sometimes even used for styles championed by high-profile designers, when they encourage or create trends that do not follow the mainstream fashion of the time.
Pistol is a British biographical drama television miniseries about British punk band the Sex Pistols. It was created by Craig Pearce for FX and directed by Danny Boyle. The series follows Sex Pistols guitarist Steve Jones and the band's rise to prominence and notoriety. It premiered on FX on Hulu in the US and Disney+ in the UK on May 31, 2022. The series was removed from both streaming services on May 26, 2023 as part of a broader cost cutting initiative under Disney CEO Bob Iger, rendering it lost media by legal means.
Music and fashion have long been closely linked. Artistic movements in music have often been associated with distinct fashions. Both industries have also had considerable influence on each other. Many famous musicians have also had notable styles and influenced fashion.
Anarchy in the UK No. 1 used exclusive images taken by Ray Stevenson of the Pistols as well as The Clash and Suburban Sect in performance at the 100 Club. Most striking was a sequence shot of revels at the St James's apartment of Sex customer and dominatrix Linda Ashby featuring members of the Bromley Contingent. These resulted in the front-cover portrait of the young Pistols superfan Susan Lucas, known as Soo Catwoman for her feline haircut.
The other person who thought she was a part of the Bromley Contingent was someone called Sue Cat Woman [sic]. What could one say about such a creature? Well, she fucked everyone's boyfriend and, like Philip, barged her way into the milieu. Rotten apparently thought she was interesting - his faux pas - she thought she could replace Jordan but didn't have the charisma or the originality, she was in the right place at the right time with that one look. She used Vicks mentholated rub on her hairdo, so she stank
Gruen broke the return to the US from a visit to continental Europe with a stay in the British capital. Eager that his American friend should document the burgeoning social scene around the Pistols, McLaren found Gruen a place in a rooming house in west London and took him directly to Club Louise, the Soho lesbian bar which had been adopted by the group and their followers – including Jordan, Siouxsie, Soo Catwoman, Marco Pirroni and Philip Sallon – as a late-night haunt.
A few week before the 100 Club thing Soo, Debbie Wilson, big Sharon and Simone (who is the black girl with the peroxide hair on the Grundy thing) were paid fifteen quid by the News of the World to have their photos taken standing about on Park Lane pretending to be hookers which was used in a Sunday shock horror piece by the papers. None of them were hookers at the time but Debbie and big Sharon became streetwalkers later on. No one was shocked as it was quite normal for girls on the scene to dabble in this "looking for Trade down the Dilly" is what they did after Louise's.
Soo Lucas, better known as Soo Catwoman, whose self-created hairstyle became punk's most distinctive female look"
Soo Catwoman, one of the original icons of punk.