The Tent Dwellers is a book by Albert Bigelow Paine, chronicling his travels through inland Nova Scotia on a trout fishing trip with Dr. Edward "Eddie" Breck, and with guides Charles "the Strong" (Charlie Charlton of Milford, NS) and Del "the Stout" (Del Thomas of Milford, NS), one June in the early 1900s. Originally published in 1908, The story starts at what is now known as the Legendary Milford House; Renowned author Albert Bigelow Paine, (Mark Twain’s biographer), chronicled his first impression of the Milford House Lodge in his famous book, in the following way … "Then at last came a church, a scattering string of houses, a neat white hotel and the edge of the wilderness had been reached." Those travelling today from Annapolis Royal will witness little change in the scenery or the impact from this turn of the century description. The book takes place in what is now Kejimkujik National Park (or "Kedgeemakoogee", as Paine spelled it) and the adjacent Tobeatic Game Reserve. The Reserve later became the Tobeatic Wildlife Management Area, and in 1998 was included within the newly created Tobeatic Wilderness Area.
Paine was well known in American literary circles at the time, chiefly as the biographer of Mark Twain. Breck held a PhD, spoke five languages, and was listed in Who's Who in America.
The book chronicles a three-week fishing trip through central Nova Scotia, and is an excellent account of the unspoiled Nova Scotia wilderness that existed at the time, which has been largely diminished since. The group encounters moose (which Eddie tries to capture and bring back alive), beaver, and numerous trout, the first of which is now very scarce in the region, and legions of mosquitos, moose flies, black flies, noseeums, and midges, all of which are regrettably abundant to this day.
Many of the areas described in the book, then virtually unexplored and uncharted, are now well known to back-country campers in Kejimkujik Park and the Tobeatic Wilderness Area. The descriptions of the central Nova Scotia woods contained in the book are beautifully written and uncannily accurate, and while the trout which brought Paine and Breck to Nova Scotia are less abundant, due in part to acid rain and increased fishing pressure, they still provide good sport for anglers. [1] [2]
Paine, a famous New England novelist and biographer, initially had some difficulties with the lack of modern amenities in camp life, but soon came to love the rugged beauty and solitude of the woods. As advice to other potential campers, he has this to offer:
"...if you are willing to get wet and stay wet - to get cold and stay cold - to be bruised, and scuffed, and bitten - to be hungry and thirsty, and to have your muscles strained and sore from unusual taxation: if you will welcome all these things, not once, but many times, for the sake of moments of pure triumph and that larger luxury which comes with the comfort of the camp and the conquest of the wilderness, then go!
The wilderness will welcome you, and teach you, and take you to its heart. And you will find your own soul there; and the discovery will be worth while!"
The Tent Dwellers was well received by critics and readers alike when it was first published in 1908. The book was praised for its humorous and vivid descriptions of the Nova Scotia wilderness and its inhabitants, as well as for its insights into the joys and challenges of camping and fishing. The book also appealed to the growing interest in outdoor recreation and conservation at the time. The New York Times called it “a delightful book, full of the spirit of the woods and waters, and of the good fellowship that goes with a life in the open.” 1
The book has remained popular among anglers, campers, and nature lovers over the years and has been reprinted several times, most recently in 2000 by Nimbus Publishing. The book has also inspired many people to visit and explore the areas that Paine and his companions travelled through, which are now part of Kejimkujik National Park and the Tobeatic Wilderness Area. The book has been recognized as an important historical and literary document of Nova Scotia’s natural and cultural heritage. In 2002, the book was selected as one of the 100 best books of Nova Scotia by the Nova Scotia Library Association [3] .
The book has also influenced and been referenced by other writers and artists. For example, Kevin Callan, a Canadian canoeist and author, retraced the 1906 route of The Tent Dwellers in 2017 and documented his trip in a series of videos. [4] The book has also been adapted into a musical play by Nova Scotia playwright Shelley Thompson, which premiered at the Chester Playhouse in 2018. Several novels have also mentioned the book, such as The Bishop’s Man by Linden MacIntyre and The Birth House by Ami McKay.
The Tent Dwellers is a book by Albert Bigelow Paine, chronicling his travels through inland Nova Scotia on a trout fishing trip with Dr. Edward “Eddie” Breck and with guides Charles “the Strong” (Charlie Charlton of Milford, NS) and Del “the Stout” (Del Thomas of Milford, NS), one June in the early 1900s. The book is considered a classic of outdoor literature and a historical account of the unspoiled Nova Scotia wilderness [5] .
The book reflects the role of fishing and camping in Nova Scotia at the turn of the century when the province was a popular destination for anglers and adventurers from the United States and Europe. The book also showcases the culture and hospitality of the Nova Scotians, especially the Mi’kmaq people, who were the original inhabitants of the land and the guides for many of the visitors [6] .
The book also captures the environmental and social changes that have occurred since the book was published, such as the decline of the trout population due to acid rain and overfishing, the development of roads and railways that made the wilderness more accessible and less pristine, and the establishment of conservation areas and parks that aimed to protect the natural and cultural heritage of the region.
The book has influenced other writers and travellers who have explored and written about Nova Scotia and its wilderness, such as Ernest Thompson Seton, Farley Mowat, Harry Thurston, and Silver Donald Cameron. The book has also inspired many people to follow in the footsteps of the Tent Dwellers and experience the beauty and adventure of the Nova Scotia backcountry.
In Chapter 2, titled "The Camp on the Sandbar," features a memorable stay at the Cofan cabin. Where they set up their camp on a picturesque sandbar during their adventure along a traditional Mi'kmaq travel route, the Cofan cabin is introduced as part of the stunning natural surroundings.
Over the years, the Cofan cabin mentioned in "The Tent Dwellers" has been restored, and it stands as a testament to the enduring allure of the wilderness documented in the book. Today, visitors can explore and experience this historic cabin, offering a unique opportunity to connect with the rich outdoor heritage of the early 20th century. The restored Cofan cabin in 1917 provides a glimpse into the past and serves as a tribute to the adventurous spirit of those who explored the Nova Scotian wilderness in the footsteps of Albert Bigelow Paine. [7] [8]
The gear described in the book would today be considered antique. Birchbark canoes are used throughout the book, as well as canvas tents. Large sections are devoted to the fishing gear used, specifically the fishing rods and flies.
In many places The Tent Dwellers draws attention to ecological impact on the forest. Paine derisively describes the 'fish hog' as one who catches and kills more fish than he has use for. He writes about the marks left on the land by logging, and about the necessity of always leaving part of the land wild and uninhabited. On the beaver, which was then being trapped nearly to extinction, he wrote:
"Long ago he taught men how to build their houses and dams, and to save up food and water for a dry time. Even if we no longer need him, he deserves our protection and our tender regard."
In advocating sustainable and responsible use of forest lands, Paine was ahead of his time. The regions through which Paine and Breck made their journey are now encompassed by Kejimkujik National Park and Tobeatic Wilderness Area.
Although fish, deer, beaver and porcupines still abound within this area, the moose referred to many times in this book (Alces americana) is endangered and rarely can be seen in this part of Nova Scotia.
Lake Rossignol and the surrounding lakes have changed considerably since this book was written. The outlet to the lake was dammed in 1929, so that Rossignol has expanded to encompass several smaller, formerly separate lakes.
The Tent Dwellers is a book that combines elements of travelogue, memoir, humour, and nature writing. The book explores various themes, such as the contrast between civilization and wilderness, the friendship and camaraderie among the travellers, the challenges and joys of fishing and camping, and the appreciation and respect for the natural environment and its inhabitants.
The book is written in a conversational and informal style, with frequent use of colloquialisms, slang, and dialect. The book also employs various literary devices, such as irony, exaggeration, understatement, and imagery, to create a humorous and vivid tone. The book is full of witty and amusing anecdotes, observations, and dialogues that often poke fun at the narrator’s mishaps and shortcomings and the eccentricities and quirks of his companions and the locals.
The book also uses symbolism and metaphors to convey deeper meanings and messages. For example, the trout represents both the lure and the reward of the wilderness, as well as the challenge and the skill of the anglers. The tent represents both the shelter and the confinement of the campers, as well as the symbol of their temporary and fragile presence in the woods. The fire represents both the warmth and danger of the camp life and the symbol of their civilization and culture.
The book also portrays the narrator and his companions as distinct and memorable characters, each with their own personality, background, and role. The narrator, Albert Bigelow Paine, is the main protagonist and the voice of the book, who acts as the curious and adventurous explorer, the enthusiastic and optimistic storyteller, and the naive and clumsy novice. Dr. Edward “Eddie” Breck, is the narrator’s friend and fellow traveller, who acts as the experienced and knowledgeable angler, the calm and rational leader, and the daring and reckless adventurer. Charles “the Strong” and Del “the Stout” are the guides and helpers of the travellers, who act as the skilled and loyal woodsmen, the cheerful and humorous companions, and the wise and mysterious mentors.
The book also compares and contrasts with other works of outdoor literature, such as Walden by Henry David Thoreau, The Maine Woods by Henry David Thoreau, The Call of the Wild by Jack London, and A River Runs Through It by Norman Maclean. The book shares some common themes and motifs with these works, such as the quest for self-reliance, the appreciation of nature, and the critique of society. However, the book also differs from these works in some aspects, such as the tone, the purpose, and the perspective. The book is more light-hearted and humorous than these works, which are often more serious and philosophical. The book is more recreational and entertaining than these works, which are often more educational and inspirational. The book is more personal and subjective than these works, which are often more universal and objective. [9] [10]
Camping is a form of outdoor recreation or outdoor education involving overnight stays with a basic temporary shelter such as a tent. Camping can also include a recreational vehicle, sheltered cabins, a permanent tent, a shelter such as a bivy or tarp, or no shelter at all. Typically, participants leave developed areas to spend time outdoors, in pursuit of activities providing them enjoyment or an educational experience. Spending the night away from home distinguishes camping from day-tripping, picnicking, and other outdoor activities.
Kejimkujik National Park is a National Park of Canada, covering 404 km2 (156 sq mi) in the southwest of Nova Scotia peninsula. Located within three municipalities, Annapolis, Queens, Digby, it consists of two separate land areas: an inland part, which is coincident with the Kejimkujik National Historic Site of Canada, and the Kejimkujik National Park Seaside on the Atlantic coast.
Recreational fishing, also called sport fishing or game fishing, is fishing for leisure, exercise or competition. It can be contrasted with commercial fishing, which is professional fishing for profit; or subsistence fishing, which is fishing for survival and livelihood.
The Mersey River, formerly known as Rivière Rossignol by the Acadians, is a river in Nova Scotia, Canada. It is named after the River Mersey in Liverpool, England. The river proper flows from the eastern end of Eleven Mile Lake in Annapolis County southward to Kejimkujik Lake in Kejimkujik National Park, then through Lake Rossignol to empty into the Atlantic Ocean at the town of Liverpool, Nova Scotia. The true source of the river however is as far northwest as Sandy Bottom Lake or Tuskopeake Brook on the northern tributary.
Canoe camping, also known as touring, tripping or expedition canoeing, is a combination of canoeing and camping. Canoe campers carry enough with them to travel and camp for several days via a canoe.
Northern Tier High Adventure is a collection of high adventure bases run by the Boy Scouts of America in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness of Minnesota, Ontario's Quetico Provincial Park and Canadian Crown Lands, Manitoba's Atikaki Provincial Wilderness Park, Woodland Caribou Provincial Park, and points beyond. Northern Tier is the oldest of the four National High Adventure Bases operated by the Boy Scouts of America; the others currently in operation are Philmont Scout Ranch in New Mexico, Florida Sea Base in the Keys, and The Summit in West Virginia. The oldest, largest and most prominent of the Norther Tier bases is the Charles L. Sommers National High Adventure Base. Central to its programs is trips into the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCA) and Quetico Provincial Park
Big Moose Lake, at the head of the Moose River, is a large lake about five miles (8 km) north of Fourth Lake in the Adirondacks in upstate New York. The lake is within both Herkimer and Hamilton counties, and covers portions of the towns of Webb and Long Lake. Located southwest of the lake is the hamlet of Big Moose.
Kejimikujik lake is the namesake lake and the largest lake in Kejimkujik National Park and the second largest freshwater lake in Nova Scotia after Lake Rossignol. The word 'Kejimkujik' is agreed by all to be a word derived from the Mi'kmaq language, but depending on the source will be said to mean "attempting to escape" or "swollen waters". The park's official stance is that Kejimkujik is a Mi'kmaq word meaning "little fairies".
The Tobeatic Wilderness Area is the largest protected area in the Canadian Maritimes, located in southwestern Nova Scotia. It contains nearly 120,000 hectares of land and spans parts of five counties, Annapolis, Digby, Queens, Shelburne and Yarmouth. Located adjacent to Kejimkujik National Park, it was formerly known as the Tobeatic Wildlife Management Area, and the Tobeatic Game Reserve.
Springfield, Nova Scotia is located between Middleton and Bridgewater. Springfield is in the centre of western Nova Scotia located on Trunk 10, 140 km west of Halifax.
Resica Falls Scout Reservation is a camp in East Stroudsburg, Pennsylvania operated by the Cradle of Liberty Council of the Boy Scouts of America.
Cape Chignecto Provincial Park is a Canadian provincial park located in Nova Scotia. A wilderness park, it derives its name from Cape Chignecto, a prominent headland which divides the Bay of Fundy with Chignecto Bay to the north and the Minas Channel leading to the Minas Basin to the east. The park, which opened in 1998, is the largest provincial park in Nova Scotia. It also anchors one end of the UNESCO Cliffs of Fundy Global Geopark.
Redditt is an unincorporated community in Unorganized Kenora District in northwestern Ontario, Canada. It is on the MacFarlane River, and located at the northern terminus of Ontario Highway 658, 27 kilometres (17 mi) north of Kenora. Redditt is also the name of the surrounding geographic township that includes the community.
Eatonville is a former lumber and shipbuilding village in Cumberland County, Nova Scotia. It includes a large tidal harbour at the mouth of the Eatonville Brook beside several dramatic sea stacks known as the "Three Sisters". It was founded in 1826 and abandoned in the 1940s. The site of the village is now part of Cape Chignecto Provincial Park.
The Tusket River is a Canadian river located in Nova Scotia's Yarmouth County.
Narrow Hills Provincial Park is a northern boreal forest provincial recreational park in the Canadian province of Saskatchewan. It is located in a hilly plateau called the Cub Hills and contains several recreational facilities and over 25 accessible lakes within its boundaries. The geographical features of the park, including the lakes, valleys, and lowlands were formed over 10,000 years ago during the last ice age. The town of Smeaton is the closest community and it is located 70 kilometres (43 mi) to the south.
Enchanted Pond is a mountain pond in the U.S. state of Maine. Situated in the Western Maine Mountains in the Northwest Somerset Region, the pond is located in a deep mountain valley between Coburn Mountain and Shutdown Mountain. Near its southern end, the pond is distinguished by two rockslides from the exposed cliffs of these mountains that extend down into the water along both shores. Enchanted Pond is fed by mountain springs and Little Enchanted Pond, and is the primary source of Enchanted Stream which flows into the Dead River, a tributary of the Kennebec River. Development on the pond is limited to a small set of sporting camps at the northern end of the pond and one remote camp on the southwest shore, both a part of Bulldog Camps. There are no islands in the pond.
Eigg Mountain is high plateau, part of the highlands of Antigonish County, Nova Scotia, Canada.
Camp Rock Enon or CRE is a Boy Scouts of America resident summer camp for both younger and older youth with high adventure opportunities. The mineral springs of the area afforded the development of a resort in 1856. 89 years later in 1944 the resort and most of the land began the conversion to youth development resources. The summer camp includes familiar outdoor programs like aquatics, camping, cooking, fishing, handicraft, and shooting sports, yet also includes less common programs like canyoneering, rappelling, rock climbing, scuba, space exploration, volleyball, white water rafting, and wilderness survival. The property includes 14 campsites that accommodate from 16 to 56 campers in tents or Adirondack shelters as well as a dining hall that can serve 450 at a time. The camp is 1.6 miles (2.6 km) from the border of Virginia and West Virginia, 35 miles (56 km) from the Maryland border, and also 35 miles (56 km) from the Pennsylvania border. Units from Maryland, Pennsylvania, Virginia, and West Virginia most often frequent the property.
Mira River Provincial Park is a provincial park situated on the Mira River in Cape Breton County, Nova Scotia, 22 kilometres (14 mi) from Sydney and 17 kilometres (11 mi) from the Fortress of Louisbourg National Historic Site of Canada. Opened in 1967, the 87.49 hectares property offers camping sites and a range of opportunities for outdoor recreation, including picnicking, swimming, canoeing, kayaking, biking, front-country hiking, boating, fishing, cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, and geocaching.