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Sir Norman Bishop Hartnell was a leading British fashion designer, best known for his work for the ladies of the royal family. Hartnell gained the Royal Warrant as Dressmaker to Queen Elizabeth in 1940, and Royal Warrant as Dressmaker to Queen Elizabeth II in 1957. Princess Beatrice also wore a dress designed for Queen Elizabeth II by Hartnell for her wedding in 2020.
A wedding dress or bridal gown is the dress worn by the bride during a wedding ceremony. The color, style and ceremonial importance of the gown can depend on the religion and culture of the wedding participants. Wedding dresses hold a significant place in fashion, symbolizing personal expression, and cultural traditions and societal values. In Western culture, the wedding dress is most commonly white, a fashion made popular by Queen Victoria when she married in 1840. In Eastern cultures, brides often choose red to symbolize auspiciousness. These wedding dresses often represent a blend of heritage and contemporary trends, making them a pivotal aspect of bridal fashion and a reflection of evolving style in society.
An evening gown, evening dress or gown is a long dress usually worn at formal occasions. The drop ranges from ballerina, tea, to full-length. Such gowns are typically worn with evening gloves. Evening gowns are usually made of luxurious fabrics such as chiffon, velvet, satin, or organza. Silk is a popular fibre for many evening gowns. Although the terms are used interchangeably, ball gowns and evening gowns differ in that a ball gown will always have a full skirt and a fitted bodice, while an evening gown can be any silhouette—sheath, mermaid, fit and flare, A-line, or trumpet-shaped—and may have straps, halters or even sleeves.
Fashion in the period 1600–1650 in Western clothing is characterized by the disappearance of the ruff in favour of broad lace or linen collars. Waistlines rose through the period for both men and women. Other notable fashions included full, slashed sleeves and tall or broad hats with brims. For men, hose disappeared in favour of breeches.
Queen Elizabeth II owned a historic collection of jewels – some as monarch and others as a private individual. They are separate from the gems and jewels of the Royal Collection, and from the coronation and state regalia that make up the Crown Jewels.
"Something old" is the first line of a traditional rhyme that details what a bride should wear at her wedding for good luck:
Lady Diana Spencer's bridal gown was an ivory silk taffeta and antique lace gown, with a 25-foot (7.6 m) train and a 153 yards (140 m) tulle veil, valued then at £9,000. It was worn at Diana's wedding to Charles, Prince of Wales in 1981 at St Paul's Cathedral. It became one of the most famous dresses in the world, and was considered one of the most closely guarded secrets in fashion history.
The wedding dress of Princess Elizabeth, was worn at her wedding to Philip Mountbatten, Duke of Edinburgh on 20 November 1947 in Westminster Abbey. Given the rationing of clothing at the time, she still had to purchase the material using ration coupons. The dress was designed by Norman Hartnell. Hartnell's signature was said to be embroidery, and he enjoyed "working with soft, floating fabrics, particularly tulle and chiffon, and with plain, lustrous silks". The dress was made of Chinese silk, with a high neckline, tailored bodice and a short train. Without straps and with long sleeves, it provided a "fit and flare silhouette".
Queen Elizabeth II's coronation took place on 2 June 1953. Ordered in October 1952, her gown took eight months of research, design, workmanship, and intricate embroidery to complete. It featured the floral emblems of the countries of the United Kingdom and those of the other states within the Commonwealth of Nations, including the English Tudor rose, Scots thistle, Welsh leek, Irish shamrock, Canadian maple leaf, Australian wattle, New Zealand silver fern, South African protea, Indian lotus flower for India, the Lotus flower of Ceylon, and Pakistan's wheat, cotton, and jute.
The wedding dress of the American actress Grace Kelly, worn during her wedding to Rainier III, Prince of Monaco on 19 April 1956, is cited as one of the most elegant and best-remembered bridal gowns of all time, and one of the most famous since the mid 20th century. One author describes the dress as a symbol of "the marital fervor" and a major influence on women who strove to "emulate Kelly's peau de soie and lace masterpiece". It was designed by Helen Rose of MGM. The dress consisted of a bodice with an attached under-bodice and skirt support. There were two petticoats, one being an attached foundation. The wedding attire included a headdress, veil, shoes and the lace- and pearl-encrusted prayer book which she carried down the aisle. To celebrate the 50th anniversary of the wedding, the Philadelphia Museum of Art displayed it at the museum between 1 April and 21 May 2006 and reported it to have been arguably its most popular exhibit.
The wedding dress of Sophie Rhys-Jones is the bridal gown worn by her at her wedding to Prince Edward, Earl of Wessex on 19 June 1999 at St George's Chapel, Windsor Castle. The dress was designed by Samantha Shaw.
The wedding of Princess Anne and Mark Phillips took place on Wednesday, 14 November 1973 at Westminster Abbey in London. Princess Anne is the only daughter and second child of Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh, while Mark Phillips is a retired British Army cavalry officer and a skilled horseman and equestrian.
Evelyn Maureen Baker was a British fashion designer. She was the chief designer for the Susan Small label for many years, before working for her own label. She is perhaps best known as the designer of the first wedding dress of Princess Anne.
A partlet was a 16th-century fashion accessory. The partlet was a sleeveless garment worn over the neck and shoulders, either worn over a dress or worn to fill in a low neckline.
The wedding dress worn by Meghan Markle at her wedding to Prince Harry on 19 May 2018 was designed by the British fashion designer Clare Waight Keller, artistic director of the fashion house Givenchy. The bride's veil was embroidered with flowers representing the countries of the Commonwealth; the California poppy, in honour of Markle's home state of California; and wintersweet, a flower that grows at Kensington Palace.
The wedding dress of Princess Beatrice of York worn at her wedding to Edoardo Mapelli Mozzi on 17 July 2020 was designed by the British fashion designer Norman Hartnell, who had originally created the gown for Queen Elizabeth II, the bride's grandmother, in the 1960s. The original dress was altered by the Queen's dressmaker, Angela Kelly, and British fashion designer, Stewart Parvin, who remodelled and fitted the dress for Princess Beatrice.
The wedding dress of Princess Charlotte of Wales was worn at her wedding to Prince Leopold of Saxe-Coburg-Saalfeld on 2 May 1816 at Carlton House in London. Charlotte was the only child of George, Prince of Wales and Caroline of Brunswick; Leopold was the youngest son of Francis, Duke of Saxe-Coburg-Saalfeld and Countess Augusta Reuss of Ebersdorf.
Princess Margaret wore a cream Dior dress for her 21st birthday commemorations at Sandringham House in 1951. The off-the-shoulder silk gown was created and customised by designer Christian Dior, whom Margaret became closely associated with. The princess was captured in the piece, dubbed one of her favourite dresses, by Cecil Beaton, with the portrait becoming one of the most memorable royal photographs of the twentieth century. The dress has been cited as a part of fashion history, and has been a part of the permanent collection at the Museum of London since 1968.
The coronation glove is a single white glove worn on the right hand by the British monarch during part of their coronation. It is donned after they are invested with the Sovereign's Ring and remains in place during the crowning ceremony. The glove is removed prior to the taking of homage from the bishops and peers of the realm. Presenting the glove to the monarch was a right associated with the Manor of Worksop and in the past the gloves have been embroidered with the arms of the owner of that manor. In 1953 the Court of Claims ruled that the Henry Pelham-Clinton-Hope, 9th Duke of Newcastle had lost the right by passing the manor to a limited company. At the 1953 coronation the glove, now embroidered with the royal cypher, was presented to the monarch by the Chancellor of the Duchy of Lancaster.
References
- 1 2 3 Charlie Elizabeth Culverhouse (22 March 2023). "Princess Anne's 'simplistic' wedding dress was inspired by one of history's most famous monarchs - and it's not Queen Elizabeth II". Woman&Home. Retrieved 5 January 2023– via Yahoo! Life.
- ↑ Nina Grunfeld, The Royal Shopping Guide (W. Morrow, 1984)
- ↑ Anne Matheson, Princess Anne: a royal girl of our time (Crown Publishers, 1973)
- ↑ Culverhouse, Charlie Elizabeth (22 March 2023). "Princess Anne's 'simplistic' wedding dress was inspired by one of history's most famous monarchs - and it's not Queen Elizabeth II". Woman and Home Magazine. Retrieved 13 April 2024.
- ↑ "On this day...197: Crowds cheer marriage of Princess Anne". BBC. 14 November 1973. Retrieved 2 May 2011.
- 1 2 "Every Romantic Detail Of Note From Princess Anne's Wedding". British Vogue. 18 July 2020. Retrieved 13 April 2024.
- ↑ Alfred J. López, Postcolonial whiteness: a critical reader on race and empire (SUNY Press, 2005) 49
- ↑ Catherine Woram, Wedding dress style: the indispensable style-file for brides-to-be (Apple, 1993) 46
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