West Berkeley Shellmound | |
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Location | three blocks bounded by University Avenue, Hearst Avenue, I-880 and Fourth Street, Berkeley, California, U.S. |
Coordinates | 37°52′04″N122°18′06″W / 37.8679°N 122.3018°W |
Founded | ca. 3700 B.C.E., Chochenyo people |
Designated | February 7, 2000 |
Reference no. | 228 [1] |
The West Berkeley Shellmound, in West Berkeley, California, sits at the site of the earliest known habitation in the San Francisco Bay Area, a village of the Ohlone people on the banks of Strawberry Creek. The shellmound, or midden, was used for both burials and ceremonial purposes, and was a repository for shells, ritual objects, and ceremonial items. It is listed as a Berkeley Landmark. Part of the site was paved in the twentieth century and for many years was a restaurant parking lot. In the 21st century, the lot was acquired by a developer, but development plans were stalled by the City of Berkeley and local Native American activists. In 2024 an agreement was reached for the land to be returned to the Ohlone, facilitated by a gift to the Sogorea Te' Land Trust, which will pay the majority of the acquisition cost, with the city paying the remainder. An artificial mound covered with vegetation and housing an educational and memorial center is planned.
The shellmound sits within the territory of the Chochenyo people, a division of the indigenous Ohlone. Carbon dating puts the earliest additions to the shellmound at about 3700 B.C.E., with continuous additions from a village at the site until 800 C.E. [2] The village, the earliest known habitation in the Bay Area, [3] then relocated, but the mound remained in use for ceremonial purposes, including as a burial site and a repository for shells, ritual objects, and ceremonial items.
There are no remains of the village. The aboveground portions of the mound, reportedly 300 feet (91 m) long and 30 feet (9.1 m) high, were removed between 1853 and 1910 and used for road construction and other commercial purposes. The Berkeley City Council designated a three-block area as a city landmark in 2000. [1] [4] [5] In the early 1970s, a 2.2-acre (0.89 ha) area at 1900 Fourth Street within the site was paved and became a parking lot for Spenger's Fish Grotto, a restaurant that operated from 1890 to 2018. [5] Whether this paved area is on the site of a shellmound is disputed, but it is within the area sacred to the Ohlone. [5] [6]
Ruegg & Ellsworth LLC, a property developer, acquired a share in the parcel in 2000 and total ownership in 2022. [5] The company proposed a mixed-use development to include 135 apartments and 33,000 square feet (3,100 m2) dedicated to retail and food service; [6] in 2018 the proposal was modified to include 260 residential units including below-market rate housing, to take advantage of the fast-track provisions of Senate Bill 35. [5] Protests against the development of the site were strengthened after two sets of ancient human remains were discovered during construction at 1919 Fourth Street, outside the previously established boundaries of the shellmound. [7] In September 2020, the National Trust for Historic Preservation declared the site one of the 11 "most endangered historic places" in the United States. [8]
The City of Berkeley did not grant permission for the proposed development in either form, partly in response to Indigenous activists including Corrina Gould, a local Lisjan Ohlone leader, and organizations including the Coalition to Save the West Berkeley Shellmound and Indian People Organizing for Change. The developers sued the city; in 2019, a judge ruled in favor of the city, [9] [10] but on April 20, 2021, a three-justice panel of the California Court of Appeal unanimously declared that "[t]here is no evidence in the record that the Shellmound is now present on the project site in a state that could reasonably be viewed as an existing structure, nor even remnants recognizable as part of a structure" that would be disturbed by the development and that the project could proceed. [11] [12] The City of Berkeley and the Confederated Villages of Lisjan sought review from the California Supreme Court of the order allowing the development to proceed, but only one, rather than the required four, Justices considered the case appropriate for further review, so the appellate decision allowing the development to proceed became law. [13] A building permit was issued in 2022, but work has not begun at the site. The developer sued the city for financial damages, and a trial date was set for April 2024. [5]
Ohlone people opposed to the development of the parking lot proposed a park and memorial center. [2] In March 2024, an agreement was reached under which Ruegg & Ellsworth will sell the land to representatives of the Ohlone for $27 million, of which $1.5 million will be paid by the city and the remaining $25.5 million by Sogorea Te' Land Trust, an organization for the return of Indigenous lands, facilitated by a recent $20 million gift. Gould's plan is to uncover the creek and use the site for a park surrounding a vegetated mound 40 feet (12 m) tall housing an educational and memorial center. [5] [14]
Berkeley is a city on the eastern shore of San Francisco Bay in northern Alameda County, California, United States. It is named after the 18th-century Anglo-Irish bishop and philosopher George Berkeley. It borders the cities of Oakland and Emeryville to the south and the city of Albany and the unincorporated community of Kensington to the north. Its eastern border with Contra Costa County generally follows the ridge of the Berkeley Hills. The 2020 census recorded a population of 124,321.
Emeryville is a city located in northwest Alameda County, California, in the United States. It lies in a corridor between the cities of Berkeley and Oakland, with a border on the shore of San Francisco Bay. The resident population was 12,905 as of 2020. Its proximity to San Francisco, the Bay Bridge, the University of California, Berkeley, and Silicon Valley has been a catalyst for recent economic growth.
The Ohlone, formerly known as Costanoans, are a Native American people of the Northern California coast. When Spanish explorers and missionaries arrived in the late 18th century, the Ohlone inhabited the area along the coast from San Francisco Bay through Monterey Bay to the lower Salinas Valley. At that time they spoke a variety of related languages. The Ohlone languages make up a sub-family of the Utian language family. Older proposals place Utian within the Penutian language phylum, while newer proposals group it as Yok-Utian.
People's Park in Berkeley, California is a parcel of land owned by the University of California, Berkeley. Located east of Telegraph Avenue and bound by Haste and Bowditch Streets and Dwight Way, People's Park was a symbol during the radical political activism of the late 1960s. Formerly a park, the site is now under construction for new university student housing and homeless supportive housing.
A midden is an old dump for domestic waste. It may consist of animal bones, human excrement, botanical material, mollusc shells, potsherds, lithics, and other artifacts and ecofacts associated with past human occupation.
Ashby station is an underground Bay Area Rapid Transit (BART) station in Berkeley, California. The station is located beneath Adeline Street to the south of its intersection with Ashby Avenue. The station includes park-and-ride facilities with 715 automobile parking spaces in two separate parking lots. It is served by the Orange and Red lines.
North Berkeley station is an underground Bay Area Rapid Transit (BART) station located in the North Berkeley neighborhood of Berkeley, California. It is bounded by Virginia Street, Sacramento Street, Delaware Street, and Acton Street in a residential area north of University Avenue. The main station entrance sits within a circular building at the center of a parking lot, while an elevator between the surface and the platform is located at the parking lot's Sacramento Street edge. The station is served by the Orange and Red lines.
The Emeryville Shellmound, in Emeryville, California, is a sacred burial site of the Ohlone people, a once-massive archaeological shell midden deposit. It was one of a complex of five or six mounds along the mouth of the perennial Temescal Creek, on the east shore of San Francisco Bay between Oakland and Berkeley. It was the largest of the over 425 shellmounds that surrounded San Francisco Bay. The site of the Shellmound is now a California Historical Landmark (#335).
Emeryville station is an Amtrak station in Emeryville, California, United States. The station is served by the California Zephyr, Capitol Corridor, Coast Starlight, and San Joaquins. The station is the primary connection point for Amtrak Thruway buses serving San Francisco.
Strawberry Creek is the principal watercourse running through the city of Berkeley, California. Two forks rise in the Berkeley Hills of the California Coast Ranges, and form a confluence at the campus of the University of California, Berkeley. The creek then flows westward across the city to discharge into San Francisco Bay.
Ohlone Park is a public linear park in the city of Berkeley, California, United States. Directly underground is the subway used by the Bay Area Rapid Transit (BART) Red Line and Orange Line. It is part of the Ohlone Greenway.
Temescal Creek is one of the principal watercourses in the city of Oakland, California, United States.
West Berkeley is generally the area of Berkeley, California, that lies west of San Pablo Avenue, abutting San Francisco Bay. It includes the area that was once the unincorporated town of Ocean View, as well as the filled-in areas along the shoreline west of I-80, mainly including the Berkeley Marina. It lies at an elevation of 23 feet.
The Chochenyo are one of the divisions of the Indigenous Ohlone (Costanoan) people of Northern California. The Chochenyo reside on the east side of the San Francisco Bay, primarily in what is now Alameda County, and also Contra Costa County, from the Berkeley Hills inland to the western Diablo Range.
Bay Street Emeryville is a large mixed-use development in Emeryville, California which currently has 65 stores, ten restaurants, a sixteen-screen movie theater, 230 room hotel, and 400 residential units with 1,000 residents.
Indigenous peoples of California, commonly known as Indigenous Californians or Native Californians, are a diverse group of nations and peoples that are indigenous to the geographic area within the current boundaries of California before and after European colonization. There are currently 109 federally recognized tribes in the state and over forty self-identified tribes or tribal bands that have applied for federal recognition. California has the second-largest Native American population in the United States.
Spenger's Fresh Fish Grotto is a historic building and was a seafood restaurant active from 1890 to 2018, at 1919 4th Street in Berkeley, California. The building is listed as a Berkeley Landmark since November 2, 1998. A historic plaque was formally installed at the entrance to the restaurant in 2004 by Berkeley Historical Plaque Project. It was also known as Spenger's Fish Grotto.
The Sogorea Te Land Trust is an urban land trust founded in 2012 with the goals of returning traditionally Chochenyo and Karkin lands in the San Francisco Bay Area to Indigenous stewardship and cultivating more active, reciprocal relationships with the land. The land trust inspired the work of the Tongva Taraxat Paxaavxa Conservancy in the Los Angeles region of Southern California.
Corrina Gould, spokeswoman and Tribal Chair of the Confederated Villages of Lisjan/Ohlone, a non-profit organization. She identifies as a Chochenyo and a Karkin Ohlone woman and is a long-time activist who works to protect, preserve, and reclaim ancestral lands of the Ohlone peoples. The Ohlone people live in the greater San Francisco Bay Area, and Gould's organization, specifically, is located in the East Bay, in regions now occupied by Oakland, Berkeley, and beyond.
Johnella LaRose is an American grassroots organizer based in the San Francisco Bay Area who advocates for Indigenous communities and the preservation and restitution of Indigenous lands. LaRose identifies with the Shoshone Bannock and the unrecognized Carrizo tribe. Alongside fellow Indigenous rights' activist Corrina Gould, LaRose is a co-founder of Indian People Organizing for Change (IPOC), a San Francisco Bay Area-based organization working to protect and raise awareness about the region’s sacred shellmounds, and the Sogorea Te Land Trust, an urban land trust working to restore Indigenous stewardship of occupied Chochenyo and Karkin Ohlone lands in the East Bay Area.