Mobcap

Last updated
Simple American bonnet or mobcap, in a portrait by Benjamin Greenleaf, 1805 Greenleaf mob cap.jpg
Simple American bonnet or mobcap, in a portrait by Benjamin Greenleaf, 1805

A mobcap (or mob cap or mob-cap) is a round, gathered or pleated cloth (usually linen) bonnet consisting of a caul to cover the hair, a frilled or ruffled brim, and (often) a ribbon band, worn by married women in the 18th and early 19th centuries, when it was called a "bonnet". These caps were always gathered to a flat, often curved, brim. The caul had a flat bottom and curved top. The bottom was typically gathered to fit the back neck with a drawstring, while the curved sides and top were tightly gathered and stitched to the brim, which typically had some curves, too. Originally an informal style, the bonnet became a high-fashion item as part of the adoption of simple "country" clothing in the later 18th century. It was an indoor fashion, and was worn under a hat for outdoor wear.

Contents

Etymology

The origin of the term mobcap is a compound of mob "dishabille, casually dressed" + cap. It may be modeled on Dutch mop (muts) "woman's cap". [1]

From at least 1730 to at least 1750, a single mob cap could be referred to as "a suit of mobs" [2] or 'a suit of mobbs', [3] while the plural mob caps could be described as 'suits of mobs' [4] or 'suits of mobbs'. [5]

In 1820, an issue of The Ladies' Monthly Museum puts it thus:

[A]s mobs do not become everybody [6]

Variations

The one piece, ruffled, gathered circle mobcap often seen worn with historical costumes is a simplified, modern interpretation, rather than a copy of a period cap.

By the Victorian period, mobcaps lingered as the head covering of servants and nurses, and small mobcaps, not covering the hair, remained part of these uniforms into the early 20th century.

Modern versions of mobcaps are still worn in the pharmaceutical industry, in clean-rooms, and in other sectors where the hair has to be contained. These mobcaps are usually a simple circle shape with an elastic band and may be made of disposable materials such as spun-bound polypropylene so they are like a shower cap. They can also be made of nylon netting.

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Academic dress of the University of Oxford</span>

The University of Oxford has a long tradition of academic dress, which continues to the present day.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bonnet (headgear)</span> Large semicircular head covering framing the face; alternatively, a brimless hat or cap

Bonnet has been used as the name for a wide variety of headgear for both sexes—more often female—from the Middle Ages to the present. As with "hat" and "cap", it is impossible to generalize as to the styles for which the word has been used, but there is for both sexes a tendency to use the word for styles in soft material and lacking a brim, or at least one all the way round, rather than just at the front. Yet the term has also been used, for example, for steel helmets. This was from Scotland, where the term has long been especially popular.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Nightgown</span> Shirtlike garment intended for wear while sleeping most often used by women

A nightgown, nightie or nightdress is a loosely hanging item of nightwear, and is commonly worn by women and girls. A nightgown is made from cotton, silk, satin, or nylon and may be decorated with lace appliqués or embroidery at the bust and hem.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1860s in Western fashion</span> Costume and fashion of the 1860s

1860s fashion in European and European-influenced countries is characterized by extremely full-skirted women's fashions relying on crinolines and hoops and the emergence of "alternative fashions" under the influence of the Artistic Dress movement.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1830s in Western fashion</span> Costume and fashion of the 1830s

1830s fashion in Western and Western-influenced fashion is characterized by an emphasis on breadth, initially at the shoulder and later in the hips, in contrast to the narrower silhouettes that had predominated between 1800 and 1820.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Evening gown</span> Womans dress usually worn to a semi-formal or formal affair

An evening gown, evening dress or gown is a long dress usually worn at formal occasions. The drop ranges from ballerina, tea, to full-length. Such gowns are typically worn with evening gloves. Evening gowns are usually made of luxurious fabrics such as chiffon, velvet, satin, or organza. Silk is a popular fibre for many evening gowns. Although the terms are used interchangeably, ball gowns and evening gowns differ in that a ball gown will always have a full skirt and a fitted bodice, while an evening gown can be any silhouette—sheath, mermaid, fit and flare, A-line, or trumpet-shaped—and may have straps, halters or even sleeves.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1840s in Western fashion</span> Costume and fashion of the 1840s

1840s fashion in European and European-influenced clothing is characterized by a narrow, natural shoulder line following the exaggerated puffed sleeves of the later 1820s and 1830s. The narrower shoulder was accompanied by a lower waistline for both men and women.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1850s in Western fashion</span> Costume and fashion of the 1850s

1850s fashion in Western and Western-influenced clothing is characterized by an increase in the width of women's skirts supported by crinolines or hoops, the mass production of sewing machines, and the beginnings of dress reform. Masculine styles began to originate more in London, while female fashions originated almost exclusively in Paris.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1750–1775 in Western fashion</span>

Fashion in the years 1750–1775 in European countries and the colonial Americas was characterised by greater abundance, elaboration and intricacy in clothing designs, loved by the Rococo artistic trends of the period. The French and English styles of fashion were very different from one another. French style was defined by elaborate court dress, colourful and rich in decoration, worn by such iconic fashion figures as Marie Antoinette.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1600–1650 in Western fashion</span> Costume in the first half of the 17th century

Fashion in the period 1600–1650 in Western clothing is characterized by the disappearance of the ruff in favour of broad lace or linen collars. Waistlines rose through the period for both men and women. Other notable fashions included full, slashed sleeves and tall or broad hats with brims. For men, hose disappeared in favour of breeches.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1820s in Western fashion</span> Costume and fashion of the 1820s

During the 1820s in European and European-influenced countries, fashionable women's clothing styles transitioned away from the classically influenced "Empire"/"Regency" styles of c. 1795–1820 and re-adopted elements that had been characteristic of most of the 18th century, such as full skirts and clearly visible corseting of the natural waist.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1650–1700 in Western fashion</span>

Fashion in the period 1650–1700 in Western clothing is characterized by rapid change. The style of this era is known as Baroque. Following the end of the Thirty Years' War and the Restoration of England's Charles II, military influences in men's clothing were replaced by a brief period of decorative exuberance which then sobered into the coat, waistcoat and breeches costume that would reign for the next century and a half. In the normal cycle of fashion, the broad, high-waisted silhouette of the previous period was replaced by a long, lean line with a low waist for both men and women. This period also marked the rise of the periwig as an essential item of men's fashion.

<i>Polonaise</i> (clothing) Style of womens garment

The robe à la polonaise or polonaise, literally meaning the Polish dress, is a woman's garment of the 18th century 1770s and 1780s or a similar revival style of the 1870s inspired by Polish national dress style, costume, consisting of a gown with a cutaway, draped and swagged overskirt, worn over an underskirt or petticoat. From the 18th century, the term polonaise also described a fitted overdress which extended into long panels over the underskirt, but was not necessarily draped or swagged.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1700–1750 in Western fashion</span> Clothing in Europe and areas under its influence from 1700-1750

Fashion in the period 1700–1750 in European and European-influenced countries is characterized by a widening silhouette for both men and women following the tall, narrow look of the 1680s and 90s. This era is defined as late Baroque/Rococo style. The new fashion trends introduced during this era had a greater impact on society, affecting not only royalty and aristocrats, but also middle and even lower classes. Clothing during this time can be characterized by soft pastels, light, airy, and asymmetrical designs, and playful styles. Wigs remained essential for men and women of substance, and were often white; natural hair was powdered to achieve the fashionable look. The costume of the eighteenth century, if lacking in the refinement and grace of earlier times, was distinctly quaint and picturesque.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1500–1550 in European fashion</span> Costume in the first half of the 16th century

Fashion in the period 1500–1550 in Europe is marked by very thick, big and voluminous clothing worn in an abundance of layers. Contrasting fabrics, slashes, embroidery, applied trims, and other forms of surface ornamentation became prominent. The tall, narrow lines of the late Medieval period were replaced with a wide silhouette, conical for women with breadth at the hips and broadly square for men with width at the shoulders. Sleeves were a center of attention, and were puffed, slashed, cuffed, and turned back to reveal contrasting linings.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1400–1500 in European fashion</span> Costume in the years 1400-1500

Fashion in 15th-century Europe was characterized by a series of extremes and extravagances, from the voluminous robes called houppelandes with their sweeping floor-length sleeves to the revealing doublets and hose of Renaissance Italy. Hats, hoods, and other headdresses assumed increasing importance, and were draped, jeweled, and feathered.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Headgear</span> Any covering for the head; element of clothing which is worn on ones head

Headgear, headwear, or headdress is any element of clothing which is worn on one's head, including hats, helmets, turbans and many other types. Headgear is worn for many purposes, including protection against the elements, decoration, or for religious or cultural reasons, including social conventions.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Monmouth cap</span> Knitted, round cap associated with Monmouth, Wales

The Monmouth cap was an item of woollen headgear fashionable between the 15th and 18th centuries, and associated with the town of Monmouth in South East Wales. The knitted round caps were used by both soldiers and sailors, and they were widely exported.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1775–1795 in Western fashion</span> Western fashion throughout the late 1700s

Fashion in the twenty years between 1775 and 1795 in Western culture became simpler and less elaborate. These changes were a result of emerging modern ideals of selfhood, the declining fashionability of highly elaborate Rococo styles, and the widespread embrace of the rationalistic or "classical" ideals of Enlightenment philosophes.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Academic dress of McGill University</span>

The academic dress of McGill University describes the caps, gowns and hoods which are prescribed by the university for its degree candidates/holders. Until the mid-20th century, McGill also prescribed academic dress for its matriculating or enrolled students as well as its faculty. Founded in 1821, McGill University is consistently ranked as one of Canada's pre-eminent universities, and among the top 20 universities in the world.

References

  1. Merriam-Webster, Merriam-Webster's Unabridged Dictionary, Merriam-Webster.
  2. 'The Real Moll Flanders: 18th Century Criminal Trials and Punishment': Part 2, the case of Hester Norton. 10 May 1735. City of York – The Examination of Hester Norton, singlewoman taken the 10th day of May 1735. Being charged with stealing a silver tumbler, four half crowns, a pair of silver studs, two pairs of little silver buttons, a suit of mobs, five pounds and half penny, two gold rings, a black silk hood. Confesseth she stole the said Tumbler and two rings from George Gray on Saturday night last but denys she stole any besides.
  3. 'The Real Moll Flanders: 18th Century Criminal Trials and Punishment': Part 2, the case of Hester Norton. 10 May 1735. City of York - The information of George Gray of Stillingfleet in the County of York, yeoman, taken upon oath the 10th day of May 1735. This informant saith and deposeth that on Saturday night last he was in his own right possessed of a silver tumbler, four half crowns which were in the cup, a pair of silver studs and two pair of little silver buttons, a suit of mobbs, five pounds and half penny, two gold rings, a black silk hood which have been since stolen by some person or persons unknown
  4. Archdeacon Wills 1737/8 #74 Ballaugh, of Mrs Mary Corlett als Parr of Ballakeig, Ballaugh, wife of John Corlett. 8 February 1730. to my Aunt Mary Christian a prenella gown, four suits of mobs with muslin borders and a firlet of malt at Michaelmass. Item, to my sister in law Elizabeth Corlet als Parr my best suit of clothes, a prenella gown and a petticoat, and the rest of my headclothes [...] 8th day of February 1730
  5. Will of Elizabeth Rugge, Widow of Inner Temple, City of London – The National Archives. 3 November 1749. the third day of November in the year of our Lord Seventeen hundred and forty nine [...] eight strong good Shifts 6 good aprons as many Neckhandkerchiefs 6 good Suits of Mobbs and all my Common Wearing Linnen and all my Cloaths except my black Sack [also spelled sacque or saque – The sack dress or sack-back gown or Robe à la Française was a women's fashion of the 18th century] my light grey Lutestring [lutestring or lustring – fabric, a fine glossy silk] and my Stitched under Pettycoats
  6. Fashionable Caps for 19th Century Matrons both Young and Old (published 30 August 2015). 1820.