Harem pants

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The Harem Girl, drawn by Bert Green for Puck, March 1911. A Western woman wearing the then newly fashionable 'harem' look. The Harem Girl - Bert Green for Puck magazine, 29 March 1911.jpg
The Harem Girl, drawn by Bert Green for Puck , March 1911. A Western woman wearing the then newly fashionable 'harem' look.

Harem pants or harem trousers are baggy, long pants caught in at the ankle. Early on, the style was also called a harem skirt. [1] The original so-called 'harem pants/skirts' were introduced to Western fashion by designers such as Paul Poiret around 1910, although they themselves were inspired by Middle East styles, and by şalvar (Turkish trousers). [2] [3] The term 'harem pants' subsequently became popular in the West as a generic term for baggy trousers caught in at the ankle that suggest the Turkish style, or similar styles such as bloomers, the South Asian shalwar and patiala salwar; the Bosnian dimije; sirwal (as worn by Zouaves); and the Ukrainian sharovary.

Contents

Early 20th century

Algerian woman's outdoor costume.jpg
19th century Algerian woman wearing the traditional pants which inspired 'harem pants'.
Paul Poiret sultana skirts and harem pants fashions, 1911.jpg
Paul Poiret harem pants, 1911

In 1911 the Paris couturier Paul Poiret introduced harem pants as part of his efforts to reinvent and 'liberate' Western female fashion. [4] [5] His "Style Sultane" included the jupe-culotte or harem pant, made with full legs tied in at the ankle. [3] Alternative names for the harem skirt/pants included jupe-sultane (sultan skirt), and jupe-pantalon (trouser-skirt). [4] These designs were seen as controversial as Western women typically did not wear trousers. [1] [4] Poiret's explicit exoticism and references to Middle Eastern styles, using the imagery of harems and sultans to establish his Orientalist style, was widely regarded as immoral and inappropriately sexualised. [3] [4] Poiret himself insisted that he designed harem pants for the chic woman to show off "the harmony of her form and all the freedom of her native suppleness." [3] Adam Geczy suggests that harem pants, as a direct cultural appropriation, represent the point at which Western fashion began seriously challenging traditional cultural claims to their own styles. [6] Despite the fierce criticism from other designers such as Jeanne Paquin who specifically criticised how harem pants slumped rather than tapered at the ankle (unlike the hobble skirt), it was noted that Paquin's own collections showed signs of having been influenced by the new styles. [6] Although Poiret is often credited with single-handedly inventing trousers for Western women, the couturier Jeanne Margaine-Lacroix presented wide-legged trousers in 1910, [7] and a fellow couturier, Bourniche, is also credited with designing such styles at the time. [8] [9]

Late 20th century

Harem pants shown in Arabian Nights The Arabian Nights Entertainments illustrartion 4.jpg
Harem pants shown in Arabian Nights

Harem pants came back into fashion in the 1980s, when they were remembered for being 'costumey.' [10] A version of harem pants popularized in the late 1980s by M. C. Hammer became known as Hammer pants. [11] [ better source needed ]

Contemporary harem pants

Harem pants are commonly worn with a pleated skirt—a short skirt that covers the top portion of the harem pants. Both harem pants and pleated skirts are commonly used in belly dancing. [12] Harem pants are also used as a look alike for a dhoti in India. [13]

See also

Related Research Articles

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Shorts are a garment worn over the pelvic area, circling the waist and splitting to cover the upper part of the legs, sometimes extending down to the knees but not covering the entire length of the leg. They are called "shorts" because they are a shortened version of trousers, which cover the entire leg, but not the foot. Shorts are typically worn in warm weather or in an environment where comfort and airflow are more important than the protection of the legs.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Skirt</span> Clothing worn from the waist or hips

A skirt is the lower part of a dress or a separate outer garment that covers a person from the waist downwards.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Skort</span> Shorts made to look like a skirt

A skort is a pair of shorts with an overlapping fabric panel made to resemble a skirt covering the front and back, or a skirt with a pair of integral shorts hidden underneath.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Paul Poiret</span> French fashion designer (1879–1944)

Paul Poiret was a French fashion designer, a master couturier during the first two decades of the 20th century. He was the founder of his namesake haute couture house.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1890s in Western fashion</span> Costume and fashion of the 1890s

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hobble skirt</span> Type of skirt with a narrow hem

A hobble skirt was a skirt with a narrow enough hem to significantly impede the wearer's stride. It was called a "hobble skirt" because it seemed to hobble any woman as she walked. Hobble skirts were a short-lived fashion trend that peaked between 1908 and 1914.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Culottes</span> Womans split skirt; earlier, breeches or knickers

Culottes are an item of clothing worn on the lower half of the body. The term can refer to either split skirts, historical men's breeches, or women's underpants; this is an example of fashion-industry words taken from designs across history, languages and cultures, then being used to describe different garments, often creating confusion among historians and readers. The French word culotte is panties, pants, knickers, trousers, shorts, or (historically) breeches; derived from the French word culot, meaning the lower half of a thing, the lower garment in this case.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bloomers</span> Type of womens garment

Bloomers, also called the bloomer, the Turkish dress, the American dress, or simply reform dress, are divided women's garments for the lower body. They were developed in the 19th century as a healthful and comfortable alternative to the heavy, constricting dresses worn by American women. They take their name from their best-known advocate, the women's rights activist Amelia Bloomer.

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pleat</span> Deliberate fold in the design of a textile object or garment

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Hammer pants are modified baggy pants, tapered at the ankle with a sagging rise, made suitable for hip hop dancing. They were popularized in the 1980s and 1990s by American rapper MC Hammer. They were inspired by harem pants, which originated in the Middle East, and were introduced to Western fashion by Paul Poiret around 1910.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1910s in Western fashion</span> Costume and fashion in the 1910s

Fashion from 1910 to 1919 in the Western world was characterized by a rich and exotic opulence in the first half of the decade in contrast with the somber practicality of garments worn during the Great War. Men's trousers were worn cuffed to ankle-length and creased. Skirts rose from floor length to well above the ankle, women began to bob their hair, and the stage was set for the radical new fashions associated with the Jazz Age of the 1920s.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Trousers</span> Clothing for the legs and lower body

Trousers, slacks, or pants are an item of clothing worn from the waist to anywhere between the knees and the ankles, covering both legs separately. In the United Kingdom, the word pants generally means underwear and not trousers. Shorts are similar to trousers, but with legs that come down only to around the area of the knee, higher or lower depending on the style of the garment. To distinguish them from shorts, trousers may be called "long trousers" in certain contexts such as school uniform, where tailored shorts may be called "short trousers" in the UK.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Fashion boot</span> Boot worn for style rather for utilitarian purposes

A fashion boot is a boot worn for reasons of style or fashion. The term is usually applied to women's boots. Fashion boots come in a wide variety of styles, from ankle to thigh-length, and are used for casual, formal, and business attire. Although boots were a popular style of women's footwear in the 19th century, they were not recognized as a high fashion item until the 1960s. They became widely popular in the 1970s and have remained a staple of women's winter wardrobes since then.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Palazzo pants</span> Womens pants with very full legs

Palazzo pants are long unisex pants cut with a loose, extremely wide leg that flares out from the waist.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Overskirt</span>

An overskirt is a type of women's short skirt which is draped over another garment, such as a skirt, breeches, or trousers. Although peplum is often used as another term for overskirt, it should not be confused with the peplos or "peplum dress", which was worn in ancient Greece.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Turkish salvar</span> Traditional baggy trousers of Turkey

Turkish şalvar, Turkish trousers or dimiye are traditional baggy trousers gathered in tightly at the ankle. They are part of Turkish folk dress.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jeanne Margaine-Lacroix</span>

Jeanne Victorine Margaine-Lacroix was a French couturier of the early 20th-century. The House Margaine-Lacroix is mainly known today for having revolutionized the world of fashion by creating the so-called Sylphide or Tanagréenne dress, cut to be worn without a corset.

References

  1. 1 2 Cumming, Valerie; Cunnington, C.W.; Cunnington, P.E. (2010). The dictionary of fashion history. Oxford: Berg. p. 185. ISBN   978-1847887382.
  2. Fukai, Akiko (2002). Fashion : the collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute : a history from the 18th to the 20th century. Köln [etc.]: Taschen. p. 724. ISBN   9783822812068.
  3. 1 2 3 4 Davis, Mary E. (2007). Classic chic : music, fashion, and modernism. Berkeley: University of California Press. pp. 31–34. ISBN   978-0520245426.
  4. 1 2 3 4 Geczy, Adam (2013). Fashion and orientalism : dress, textiles and culture from the 17th to the 21st century (1. publ. ed.). London [u.a.]: Bloomsbury. pp. 137–8. ISBN   9781847885999.
  5. Hefferman, Teresa; Bowman Dodd, Anna (1903). "Introduction (2005)". In the Palaces of the Sultan (2005 ed.). Gorgias Press LLC. p. xi. ISBN   9781593332044.
  6. 1 2 Geczy, Adam (2013). Fashion and orientalism : dress, textiles and culture from the 17th to the 21st century (1. publ. ed.). London [u.a.]: Bloomsbury. p. 147. ISBN   9781847885999.
  7. Milford-Cottam, Daniel (2014). Edwardian fashion. Shire Books. p. 55. ISBN   9780747814047.
  8. Mulvagh, Jane (1992). Vogue history of 20th century fashion. London: Bloomsbury Books. p. 19. ISBN   9781854710819.
  9. Art Bulletin of Victoria, Issues 34-36. Victoria: Council of the National Gallery of Victoria. 1994. p. 35. Mulvagh, p. 19, suggests that the jupe culotte was introduced by Poiret, Bourniche and Margaine-Lacroix, while books on Poiret credit it to him alone.
  10. Gunn, Tim; Calhoun, Ada (2012). Tim Gunn's fashion bible : the fascinating history of everything in your closet (1st Gallery Books hardcover ed.). New York: Gallery Books. p.  94. ISBN   9781451643862.
  11. In The 80s — Clothes of the Eighties, Harem Pants
  12. "Stylish Harem Pants". Sew Guide. 22 April 2016. Retrieved 13 May 2016.
  13. "Aditi Rao Hydari practiced her Bharat Natyam skills home in a black top and printed harem pants". 20 May 2020.

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