Stefano Ghisolfi

Last updated
Stefano Ghisolfi
StefanoGhisolfi-1.JPG
Ghisolfi competing at the European Championships, Chamonix, 2013.
Personal information
Born (1993-02-18) February 18, 1993 (age 30)
Turin, Italy
OccupationProfessional rock climber
Height170 cm (5 ft 7 in)
Weight58 kg (128 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climber
Ape index+4 cm (2 in)
Highest grade
Known for
  • Fourth climber in history to redpoint a 9b+  (5.15c) route
First ascents
  • Excalibur (2023, 9b+)
  • Erebor (2021, 9b)
Medal record
World Cup
Silver medal icon.svg2017Lead
Silver medal icon.svg2018Lead
Gold medal icon.svg2021Lead
Updated on December 7, 2018.

Stefano Ghisolfi (born February 18, 1993) is an Italian professional rock climber, who specializes in competition climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering. In competition climbing, he completes in competition lead climbing, competition bouldering, and competition speed climbing, with lead being his strongest discipline. As a sport climber, he has redpointed sport climbing routes of grade 9b+  (5.15c), [1] onsighted routes of 8c  (5.14b), [2] and solved boulder problems at grade 8B+  (V14). [3] In December 2018, after climbing Perfecto Mundo, he became the fourth climber in history to redpoint a 9b+  (5.15c) route. [4]

Contents

Climbing career

Competition climbing

In 2007, Ghisolfi participated in his first international competition: the IFSC European Youth Cup.

Both in 2010 and 2011, he won the bronze medal in Lead climbing at the IFSC World Youth Championships. [5] In the same years, he also participated in the IFSC World Championships as a senior competitor, for all disciplines (lead, bouldering, and speed) and placed tenth in the overall ranking.

On October 13, 2012, he first got on the podium in the World Cup, obtaining a bronze medal in Xining, China. He obtained gold medals in the World Cup stages at Wujiang (China), in 2014, Xiamen (China), in 2016, and then again at Wujiang (China), in 2017.

Rock climbing

On November 2, 2015, he made the first free ascent (FFA) of Lapsus, in Andonno (Italy), a 70-hold sport climbing route for which he proposed a grade of 9b  (5.15b). [6]

On December 7, 2018, after climbing the 9b+  (5.15c) sport route Perfecto Mundo (Margalef, ESP), he became the fourth climber in history to redpoint a route at that grade, after Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma, and Alex Megos. [4]

On September 2, 2020, he made the second ascent of Change  [ fr ] 9b+  (5.15c), in Flatanger, Norway; the first-ever 9b+ route in history, established by Adam Ondra in 2012. [7]

On August 24, 2021, he made the second ascent of Bibliographie 9b+  (5.15c), in Céüse, France. Originally graded with a proposed 9c (5.15d) rating, the route was first established by Alex Megos. Ghisolfi then downgraded it to 9b+. [8]

On February 2, 2023, made the FFA of Excalibur, in Arco, in Italy, for which he proposed a grade of 9b+  (5.15c). [9]

Rankings

Climbing World Cup [10]

Discipline200920102011201220132014201520162017201820192021
Lead212410109942251
Bouldering65833041
Speed173038
Combined101049

Climbing World Championships

Youth [5] [11]

Discipline2008
Youth B
2009
Youth A
2010
Youth A
2011
Juniors
2012
Juniors
Lead5153313
Speed565-17

Adult [5]

Discipline20112012201420162018
Lead271610722
Bouldering2516
Speed3033

Climbing European Championships

Youth [5]

Discipline2012
Juniors
Lead3

Adult [5]

Discipline2010201320152017
Lead3716710
Bouldering373535-
Speed183226-

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Lead [5]

SeasonGoldSilverBronzeTotal
201211
20130
201411
20150
2016112
20171113
2018224
201911
20200
2021123
Total66315

Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup

Lead [5]

SeasonCategoryGoldSilverBronzeTotal
2011Juniors134
2012Juniors11
Total1135

Speed [5]

SeasonCategoryGoldSilverBronzeTotal
2011Juniors22
Total0022

Rock climbing

Redpointed routes

9b+  (5.15c):

9b  (5.15b):

  • Move Hard - Flatanger (NOR) - September 16, 2022 - First ascent by Adam Ondra, 2017
  • L'Arenauta - Sperlonga (ITA) - February 10, 2022 - First ascent.
  • The Lonely Mountain - Arco (ITA) - December 17, 2021 - First Ascent.
  • Erebor - Arco (ITA) - January 11, 2021 [13] - First Ascent. Originally graded 9b/+, downgraded by Adam Ondra.
  • La Capella - Siurana (ESP) - January 12, 2018 - First ascent by Adam Ondra, 2011
  • One Slap - Arco (ITA) - November 22, 2017 - First ascent by Adam Ondra, 2017
  • First Round, First Minute - Margalef (ESP) - January 30, 2017 [14]
  • Lapsus - Andonno (ITA) - November 2, 2015 - First ascent [6]

9a+  (5.15a):

9a  (5.14d):

  • Thunder Ribes - Massone (Arco, (ITA)) - December 16, 2016 - Combination of the routes Reini's Vibes, Ultima Pietra, and Stonehenge.
  • L'Attimo - Covolo (ITA) - October 11, 2015 [21] - First ascent by Silvio Reffo, 2012
  • Underground - Massone (Arco, (ITA)) - July 5, 2014 - First ascent by Manfred Stuffer, 1998
  • Biologico - Narango (Arco, (ITA)) - June 8, 2014 - First ascent by Adam Ondra, 2012
  • TCT - Gravere (ITA) - May 31, 2014 - First ascent
  • Grandi Gesti - Grotta dell'Arenauta (Sperlonga, ITA) - December 30, 2013 - First ascent by Gianluca Daniele, 2009
  • Ground Zero - Tetto di Sarre (ITA) - June 9, 2013 - First ascent by Alberto Gnerro, 2002 [22]

Onsighted routes

8c  (5.14b):

8b+  (5.14a):

  • Falconeti - Montsant (ESP) - January 2013 [23]
  • L-mens - Montsant (ESP) - January 2013 [23]

Boulder problems

Ghisolfi climbed five 8B  (V13) and two 8B+  (V14) boulder problems. [3]

He won the 2013, 2014, 2015 and 2016 editions of Melloblocco. [24]

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Chris Sharma</span> American rock climber

Chris Omprakash Sharma is an American rock climber who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of the sport. He dominated sport climbing for the decade after his 2001 ascent of Realization/Biographie, the world's first-ever redpoint of a consensus 9a+ (5.15a) graded route, and ushered in what was called a "technical evolution" in the sport. Sharma carried the mantle of "world's strongest sport climber" from Wolfgang Gullich, and passed it to Adam Ondra.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Realization (climb)</span> Sport climbing route in France

Realization, also called Biographie, is a circa 35-metre (115 ft) sport climbing route on a limestone cliff on the southern face of Céüse mountain, near Gap and Sigoyer, in France. After it was first climbed in 2001 by American climber Chris Sharma, it became the first rock climb in the world to have a consensus grade of 9a+ (5.15a). It is considered an historic and important route in rock climbing, and one of the most attempted climbs at its grade.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Josune Bereziartu</span> Spanish rock climber

Josune Bereziartu, also known as Josune Bereciartu Urruzola, is a Basque rock climber. For a decade starting in the late 1990s, she was considered the strongest female sport climber in the world and is regarded as one of the most important female rock climbers in history.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ramón Julián Puigblanqué</span> Spanish rock climber

Ramón Julián Puigblanque is a professional Spanish rock climber specializing in competition lead climbing and sport climbing. He won two World Championships, in 2007 and 2011, three European Championships, in 2004 2010 and 2015, and one Lead Climbing World Cup in 2010. From 2001 to 2016, he participated in 16 seasons of the World Cup, winning 21 World Cup stages. He has also redpointed several sport routes above 9a (5.14d), and made the first free ascent of La Rambla.

(not to be confused with Tomas Mrazek, the boxer with an impressive 10-75 record).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Adam Ondra</span> Czech climber (born 1993)

Adam Ondra is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing. In 2013, Rock & Ice described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Ondra is the only male athlete to have won World Championship titles in both disciplines in the same year (2014) and is also the only male athlete to have won the World Cup series in both disciplines.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">La Rambla (climb)</span> Sport climbing route in Spain

La Rambla is a 41-metre (135 ft) sport climb at the limestone El Pati crag in Siurana, Catalonia in Spain. Originally bolted and climbed by Alexander Huber in 1994 as a 35-metre (115 ft) route, the bolting was later extended by Dani Andrada to a 41-metre (135 ft) route, which was eventually climbed by Ramón Julián Puigblanque in 2003. While there has been debate about La Rambla's grade, there is now consensus that it meets the 9a+ (5.15a) threshold. It is an important and historic route in climbing, and is part of the coveted "9a+ trilogy" with Realization and Papichulo.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Angela Eiter</span> Austrian professional climber

Angela "Angy" Eiter is an Austrian professional rock climber who specialises in competition climbing and sport climbing. In competition lead climbing, she won three IFSC World Cups in a row (2004–2006), and four IFSC World Championships. In 2011, she achieved her 25th win in World Cup and her 42nd podium. She is also one of the strongest sport climbers in the world, and in 2017, became the first-ever female in history to climb a 9b (5.15b) route, La Planta de Shiva. In 2020, she became the first-ever female in history to complete the first free ascent (FFA) of a 9b (5.15b) route, Madame Ching.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Alexander Megos</span> German rock climber

Alexander Megos is a German rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering and competition climbing. In 2013, he became the first-ever climber to onsight a 9a (5.14d) graded route. He has made the first free ascent (FFA) of some of the hardest sport climbing routes in the world, including two 9b+ (5.15c) routes, three 9b (5.15b) routes, and several boulders with a boulder 8C (V15) rating.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jakob Schubert</span> Austrian rock climber

Jakob Schubert is an Austrian professional rock climber, specializing in competition climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering. He was four times World Champion and three times World Cup winner in lead climbing. In August 2021, he won bronze at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo. As of the end of 2022, Schubert had won the most men's IFSC gold medals of any male competition climber in history. In addition to competition climbing, Schubert is one of only a handful of climbers in the world to have redpointed 9c (5.15d) routes.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sachi Amma</span> Japanese rock climber

Sachi Amma is a Japanese professional rock climber and sport climber. He won the IFSC Climbing World Cup twice, in 2012 and 2013.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kilian Fischhuber</span> Austrian rock climber

Kilian Fischhuber is a professional Austrian rock climber who specializes in bouldering, sport climbing and competition climbing, where competes in bouldering and lead climbing. From 2005 to 2011, he won five Bouldering World Cups. No other male climber was ever able to win it more than three times, or win it three times in a row. Due to his outstanding career, he was awarded the La Sportiva Competition Award in 2009, together with Chris Sharma.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Patxi Usobiaga</span> Spanish rock climber (born 1980)

Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza, best known as Patxi Usobiaga, is a Spanish professional rock climber, sports climber and boulderer. He is known for winning two Lead Climbing World Cups in a row, and for being the first-ever climber in history to onsight an 8c+ (5.14c) route.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Silence (climb)</span> Sport climbing route in Norway

Silence, is a 45-metre (148 ft) overhanging sport climbing route in the granite Hanshelleren Cave, in Flatanger, Norway. When Czech climber Adam Ondra made the first free ascent on 3 September 2017, it became the first rock climb in the world to have a proposed climbing grade of 9c (5.15d), and it is an important route in rock climbing history. To complete the route, Ondra undertook specialist physical and mental training to overcome its severely overhanging terrain.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Laura Rogora</span> Italian rock climber

Laura Rogora is an Italian rock climber who specializes in sport climbing and in competition climbing. In 2021, she became the third-ever female climber in history to redpoint a 9b (5.15b)-graded sport climbing route, with her ascent of Erebor in Italy.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bibliographie (climb)</span> Sport climbing route in France

Bibliographie is a circa 35-metre (115 ft) sport climbing route on a limestone cliff on the southern face of Céüse mountain, near Gap and Sigoyer, in France. The route was bolted in 2009 by Ethan Pringle, and was first ascended by Alexander Megos on 5 August 2020. Megos initially graded the route as 9c (5.15d), the highest difficulty at that time. The route was repeated on 24 August 2021 by Stefano Ghisolfi, who graded the route as 9b+ (5.15c), which has become the consensus grade for Bibliographie, making it only the fifth-ever climb in history at a grade of 9b+.

Sébastien Bouin, nicknamed Seb Bouin, is a French rock climber born in Draguignan. By 2022, Bouin is regarded as one of the strongest sport climbers in the world, being only the second-ever climber to establish a route graded 9c (5.15d), with DNA in 2022, and one of only a handful of climbers to create a new route at the grade of 9b+ (5.15c). Bouin is also regarded for his documentary series on the history of extreme sport climbing in France.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">William Bosi</span> Scottish rock climber (born 1998)

William (Will) Bosi is a Scottish professional rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering and competition climbing. Bosi is only the second British sport climber in history to redpoint a 9b (5.15b) graded sport climbing route, and by 2023, was one of only a small group of climbers in the world to have completed a V17 (9A) boulder.

Jonathan Siegrist is an American rock climber who is regarded as one of the world's most prolific extreme sport climbers, and who has redpointed, and made numerous first free ascents, of a large number of sport climbing routes at and above the grade of 9a (5.14d). Siegrist's breadth of experience at the world's most extreme sport climbing grades, means that he is often looked to for guidance regarding the grading of extreme sport routes in America. While principally known as a sport climber, he has also repeated some of the world's hardest traditional climbing routes.

References

  1. 1 2 Planet Mountain, ed. (August 24, 2021). "Stefano Ghisolfi repeats Bibliographie, Alexander Megos' masterpiece at Céüse" . Retrieved August 25, 2021.
  2. 1 2 Planet Mountain, ed. (January 9, 2017). "Stefano Ghisolfi 8c onsight" . Retrieved December 7, 2018.
  3. 1 2 planetmountain.com, ed. (January 5, 2012). "Stefano Ghisolfi da 8B+ a Varazze" . Retrieved February 5, 2013.
  4. 1 2 3 Instagram, ed. (December 7, 2018). "Perfecto mundo 9b+, mission accomplished". Archived from the original on 2021-12-25. Retrieved December 7, 2018.{{cite web}}: |editor= has generic name (help)
  5. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 IFSC, ed. (July 19, 2021). "Ghisolfi's profile and rankings" . Retrieved July 19, 2021.
  6. 1 2 planetmountain.com, ed. (November 2, 2015). "Stefano Ghisolfi libera Lapsus ad Andonno, il primo 9b in Italia" . Retrieved November 4, 2015.
  7. Natalie Berry, ed. (September 28, 2020). "Second Ascent of Change 9b+ by Stefano Ghisolfi" . Retrieved October 14, 2020.
  8. "Et bam... Stefano Ghisolfi décote Bibliographie à 9b+..." August 27, 2021. Retrieved August 27, 2021.
  9. dmiller (2023-02-22). "Stefano Ghisolfi On Prying Excalibur From the Stone, Exclusive Q&A". Climbing. Retrieved 2023-05-14.
  10. IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings" . Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  11. WY Championships 2011, not included in Ghisolfi's IFSC profile
  12. "NEWSFLASH: Second Ascent of Change 9b+ by Stefano Ghisolfi". www.ukclimbing.com. 28 September 2020. Retrieved 2020-09-29.
  13. montagna.tv, ed. (January 13, 2021). "Stefano Ghisolfi libera "Erebor": "La via più difficile d'Italia"" . Retrieved August 25, 2021.
  14. "First Round, First Minute is done! Today I finally climbed my second 9b, FA". January 30, 2017. Archived from the original on 2021-12-25. Retrieved January 30, 2017.
  15. planetmountain.com, ed. (March 21, 2017). "Stefano Ghisolfi sale La Rambla a Siurana al quarto tentativo" . Retrieved March 20, 2017.
  16. planetmountain.com, ed. (February 14, 2017). "Stefano Ghisolfi e Pietro Biagini, grandi salite a Margalef e Varazze" . Retrieved January 31, 2017.
  17. planetmountain.com, ed. (December 20, 2016). "Stefano Ghisolfi chiude Ultimatum a Massone, nuovo 9a+ ad Arco" . Retrieved December 27, 2016.
  18. planetmountain.com, ed. (June 23, 2015). "Stefano Ghisolfi chiude Biographie 9a+ a Ceuse" . Retrieved July 7, 2015.
  19. planetmountain.com, ed. (March 15, 2015). "Stefano Ghisolfi risolve Demencia Senil 9a+ a Margalef" . Retrieved November 4, 2015.
  20. planetmountain.com, ed. (August 25, 2014). "Stefano Ghisolfi, primo 9a+ con Le moustache qui fâche" . Retrieved July 7, 2015.
  21. planetmountain.com, ed. (October 13, 2015). "Stefano Ghisolfi da 9a in un weekend al Covolo" . Retrieved November 4, 2015.
  22. planetmountain.com, ed. (June 10, 2013). "Stefano Ghisolfi da 9a al Tetto di Sarre in Aosta" . Retrieved June 10, 2013.
  23. 1 2 planetmountain.com, ed. (January 11, 2013). "Stefano Ghisolfi, due 8b+ a vista in Spagna" . Retrieved February 5, 2013.
  24. planetmountain.com, ed. (May 5, 2013). "Melloblocco 2013: day ten, l'arrivederci alla Valle" . Retrieved May 6, 2013.