List of grade milestones in rock climbing

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In rock climbing, a first free ascent (FFA) is the first redpoint, onsight or flash of a single-pitch, multi-pitch (or big wall), or boulder climbing route that did not involve using aid equipment to help progression or resting; the ascent must therefore be performed in either a sport, a traditional, or a free solo manner. First-free-ascents that set new grade milestones are important events in rock climbing history, and are listed below. While sport climbing has dominated absolute-grade milestones since the mid-1980s (i.e. are now the highest grades), milestones for modern traditional climbing, free solo climbing, onsighted, and flashed ascents, are also listed.

Contents

A route's grade is provisional until enough climbers have repeated the route to have a "consensus". At the highest grades, this can take years as few climbers are capable of repeating these routes. For example, in 2001, Realization was considered the world's first 9a+  (5.15a), however, the first repeat of the 1996 route Open Air  [ de ], which only happened in 2008, suggested that it was possibly the first 9a+  (5.15a). Open Air has had no further repeats, and has had holds broken since 1996, whereas Realization has had many ascents and is thus a "consensus" 9a+. Therefore, where known, the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th ranked candidates are also chronicled. [1] [2]

As of May 2024, the hardest single-pitch redpoint was at the grade of 9c  (5.15d) for men and 9b  (5.15b) for women. The hardest onsight was at the grade of 9a+  (5.15a) for men and 8c  (5.14b) for women. The hardest boulder solved was at the boulder grade of V17  (9A) for men and V15/V16 (8C/8C+)   for women. The hardest multi-pitch (or big wall) redpoint was at the grade of 9a  (5.14d). The hardest single-pitch free solo was at the grade of 8c  (5.14b), and the hardest multi-pitch (or big wall) free solo was at 7c+  (5.13a).

Single-pitch routes

Redpointed by men

9c  (5.15d): [lower-alpha 1]

Adam Ondra on Silence Adam Ondra climbing Silence, 9c by PAVEL BLAZEK 1-cropped.jpg
Adam Ondra on Silence
  • Silence (also Project Hard) – Flatanger (NOR) – September 3, 2017 – First ascent by Adam Ondra, who described it as "much harder than anything else" he had previously done, and cautiously suggested the 9c rating for the 45 m route. [5] [6] Remains unrepeated (April 2024).
  • DNA  [ de ] – Verdon Gorge (FRA) – April 29, 2022 – First ascent by Sébastien Bouin who proposed the grade of 9c, saying "Comparing this route to Bibliographie , Move, Beyond [Integral], it seems a step ahead", and "To choose 9c is to take a risk". Remains unrepeated (April 2024). [7]
  • B.I.G. (also Project Big) – Flatanger (NOR) – September 20, 2023 – First ascent by Jakob Schubert, who worked on the route with Adam Ondra, and after consulting with Ondra, proposed 9c on the basis it was "definitely harder" than Perfecto Mundo, a "benchmark" 9b+. Remains unrepeated (April 2024). [8]

9b+  (5.15c): [lower-alpha 2]

9b  (5.15b): [lower-alpha 3] [lower-alpha 4] [lower-alpha 5] [lower-alpha 6]

9a+  (5.15a): [lower-alpha 7] [lower-alpha 8]

9a  (5.14d):

Alex Megos on Action Directe Action Directe 11 (9a), Foto Jorgos Megos.JPG
Alex Megos on Action Directe

8c+  (5.14c):

8c  (5.14b): [lower-alpha 9]

8b+  (5.14a): [lower-alpha 10]

Climber nearing the top of Punks in the Gym 32 8b+ (5.14a) Punks Wall (29529972985).jpg
Climber nearing the top of Punks in the Gym 32 8b+  (5.14a)

8b  (5.13d): [lower-alpha 11]

8a+  (5.13c) [lower-alpha 12]

Pre-sport era

Many of the notable first ascents that achieved a new highest grade pre The Face are traditional climbing routes:

8a  (5.13b) [lower-alpha 13]

  • Grand Illusion – Sugar Loaf, Lake Tahoe, CA (US) – 1979 – First-ever consensus 8a  (5.13b) in history, by Tony Yaniro  [ fr ]. [10] [37]
  • Cosmic Debris--Yosemite Valley, CA (US)--May, 1980--Early 8a led by Bill Price. [49]
  • Sphinx Crack--South Platte, CO (US)--April, 1981--Early 8a led by Steve Hong. [50]
  • 13 Boulevard du Vol – Rochers de Freyr, (BEL) – 1981 – Early consensus 8a  (5.13b), by Arnould t'Kint. [10] [37]
  • Grand Illusion – Sugar Loaf, Lake Tahoe, CA (US) – 1982 – Early consensus 8a  (5.13b), by Wolfgang Güllich. [37]
  • La Crépinette – Les Eaux-Claires (FRA) – 1983 – Early consensus 8a  (5.13b) in history, by Fabrice Guillot (and first 8a in France). [37] [51]

7c+  (5.13a)

  • The Phoenix – Yosemite, CA (US) – 1977 – Considered the first-ever consensus 7c+  (5.13a) in history, by Ray Jardine (used his new cams). [52]
  • Le Toit – Baou de Quatre Ouro (FRA) – 1981 – Second-ever consensus 7c+  (5.13a) in history, by Patrick Edlinger. [37]
  • Le Haine – La Turbie (FRA) – March, 1981 – Third-ever consensus 7c+  (5.13a) in history, by Patrick Berhault. [37]
  • Chimpanzodrome – Le Saussois (FRA) – April, 1981 – Fourth-ever consensus 7c+  (5.13a) in history, by Jean-Pierre Bouvier. [37]

7c  (5.12d)

  • Psycho Roof – Eldorado, CO (US) – 1975 – Estimated as the first-ever 7c  (5.12d) in history, by Steve Wunsch; only one ascent, due to large broken flake, and was possibly harder than 7c in 1975.
  • The Pirate – Suicide Rock, CA – (US) – 1978 – Early 7c (5.12d) by Tony Yaniro. [53]
  • Iron Cross – Shawangunks, NY –(US) – 1978 – Early 7c (5.12d) by John Bragg. [54] [55]
  • Genesis – Eldorado, CO – (US) – 1979 – Early 7c (5.12d) by Jim Collins. [56] [50]
  • Nymphodalle – Les Calanques (FRA) – 1979 – Sometimes considered first-ever consensus 7c  (5.12d) in history, by Patrick Edlinger. [37] [40]
  • Equinox – Joshua Tree (US) – 1980 – Considered one of the earliest consensus 7c  (5.12d) climbs in history, by Tony Yaniro  [ fr ]. [37]
  • Chasin' the trane – Frankenjura (GER) – 1980 – Considered one of the earliest consensus 7c  (5.12d) climbs in history, by John Bachar. [37]

7b+  (5.12c)

7b  (5.12b)

7a+  (5.12a)

Thimble, the 1960s The Thimble.jpg
Thimble, the 1960s
  • Thimble – Needles, SD, (US) – 1961 – First-ever 7a+  (5.12a) in history, by John Gill. Free soloed. [10]
  • Macabre Roof--Ogden, Utah, (US)--1967--First-ever roped 7a+ (5.12a) in history, flashed by Greg Lowe. [60] [61]
  • Orchrist – Almscliff, (ENG) – July 1973 – Early 7a+ (5.12a) as was graded E5 6b, by Hank Pasquill. [62]
  • The Throne – Shawangunks, NY (US) – 1973 – Very early 7a+  (5.12a) climb, led by John Stannard. [54]
  • Footless Crow – Goat Crag, Borrowdale, (ENG) – April 19, 1974 – Early 7a+ (5.12a) as was graded E5 6b, by Pete Livesey. [62]

7a  (5.11d)

Redpointed by women

9b  (5.15b): [lower-alpha 14]

9a+  (5.15a):

9a/9a+  :

9a  (5.14d): [lower-alpha 15] [lower-alpha 16]

8c+  (5.14c):

  • Honky Tonk Mix – Onate (ESP) – June, 2000 – First-ever female ascent of an 8c+ route, by Josune Bereziartu. [10] [85]
  • Noia – Andonno (ITA) – October, 2001 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8c+ route, by Josune Bereziartu. [10]
  • Na Nai – Baltzola (ESP) – June 18, 2003 – Third-ever female ascent of an 8c+ route, by Josune Bereziartu. [67]
  • Powerade – Vadiello (ESP) – May 21, 2007 – Fourth-ever female ascent of an 8c+ route, by Josune Bereziartu. [67]

8c  (5.14b):

8b+  (5.14a):

8b  (5.13d):

8a+  (5.13c):

8a  (5.13b):

7c+/8a (5.13a/b)  :

Pre-sport era

Many of the notable first female ascents that achieved a new highest grade pre Fleur de Rocaille, are traditional climbing routes:

7c+  (5.13a):

7c  (5.12d):

7b+  (5.12c):

7b  (5.12b):

7a  (5.11d):

Onsighted / Flashed by men

With route beta on the internet, the distinction between an onsight (no prior beta) and a flash (had prior beta) is less relevant; it is recorded where noted.

9a+  (5.15a):

  • Super Crackinette – Saint Léger (FRA) – 10 February 2018 – First-ever 9a+ flash (not onsight) in history, by Adam Ondra. [90]

9a  (5.14d):

  • Southern Smoke Direct – Red River Gorge (USA) – 29 October 2012 – First-ever 9a flash (not onsight), by Adam Ondra. [91] [92]
  • Estado Critico – Siurana (ESP) – 24 March 2013 – First-ever 9a onsight, by Alex Megos. [93]
  • Cabane au Canada – Rawyl (SUI) – 9 July 2013 – Second-ever 9a onsight, by Adam Ondra. [94]
  • Il Domani – Baltzola (ESP) – 3 May 2014 – Third-ever 9a onsight, by Adam Ondra. [95]
  • Water World – Pajkova Streha (SLO) – November 2022 – Fourth-ever 9a onsight, by Adam Ondra. [96]

8c+  (5.14c):

8c  (5.14b):

8b+  (5.14a):

8b  (5.13d):

  • Liaisons Dangereuses – Les Calanques (Les Goudes), (FRA) – 1993 – First-ever 8b onsight, by Elie Chevieux  [ de ] [10]
  • Public Enemy – Cuenca, (ESP) – 1993 – Originally considered the first 8a+/8b onsight, by Stefan Glowacz, but consensus grade is now 8b. [98]

8a+  (5.13c):

(unknown)

8a  (5.13b):

7c+  (5.13a):

7c  (5.12d):

7b+  (5.12c):

Onsighted / Flashed by women

With route beta on the internet, the distinction between an onsight (no prior beta) and a flash (had prior beta) is less relevant; it is recorded where noted.

8c  (5.14b): [lower-alpha 17]

8b+  (5.14a): [lower-alpha 18] [lower-alpha 19]

8b  (5.13d):

8a+  (5.13c):

8a  (5.13b):

Free-solo by men

Notable free-solos above 7c  (5.12d) range; does not include "highball" boulder ascents as the climbers here did not use padding or spotters. [119]

8c  (5.14b):

  • Panem et Circenses – Length: 15 metres (49 ft) – Arco (IT) – March 2021 – First-ever 8c free solo, by Alfredo Webber, aged 52. [120]

8b+  (5.14a):

8b  (5.13d):

8a+  (5.13c):

8a  (5.13b):

7c  (5.12d)

7b  (5.12b)

7a+  (5.12a)

  • Thimble – Needles, SD, (US) – 1961 – First-ever 7a+ free solo in history (and first-ever redpoint, see above), by John Gill. [10] [124]

Boulder problems

Solved by men

9A  (V17): [lower-alpha 20] [lower-alpha 21]

  • Alphane – Chironico (SUI) – April 6, 2022 – First ascent by Shawn Raboutou, [127] [133] and first repeat by Aidan Roberts (October 2022); Roberts was silent on the grade having never climbed at V17, and having previously failed on Burden of Dreams. [134] William Bosi made a second repeat in November 2022, and after feeling that it was less of a challenge than his FA of Honey Badger 8C+, later felt it was still at 9A  (V17). [135]

8C+  (V16): [lower-alpha 22]

Christian Core on Gioia [fr] Christian Core on Gioia.jpg
Christian Core on Gioia  [ fr ]
  • Gioia  [ fr ] – Varazze (ITA) – 2008 – Considered the first-ever 8C+  (V16), by Christian Core. [138] First repeat in 2011 by Adam Ondra who proposed an 8C+ grade, describing the boulder as one of the hardest in the world, together with Terranova (see below). [139] Third ascent by Nalle Hukkataival in 2014, and Niccolo Ceria in 2020, who were silent on grade. [140] [141] In 2015, it was discovered that new holds were chipped on the route, which Core tried to fix but not with complete success, leaving one new crimp that Core felt does lower the grade. [138] In 2021, a fifth repeat by Elias Lagnemma suggested a slightly lower grade of 8C/+ (using a kneepad). [128] [142]

8C  (V15): [lower-alpha 23] [lower-alpha 24]

8B+  (V14): [lower-alpha 25]

Dreamtime in Switzerland Dreamtime Boulder in Cresciano - line.jpg
Dreamtime in Switzerland

8B  (V13):

8A+  (V12): [lower-alpha 26]

8A  (V11):

7C+  (V10):

7C  (V9):

  • Red Cross Overhang, or Gill Problem – Teton Range (US) – 1959 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a 7C  (V9), by John Gill. [10] [155]
  • Double Clutch--Flagstaff Mountain, Boulder, CO (US)--1972--Very early 7c (V8-V9) by Bob Williams. [161]
  • Speed of Light Dyno – Black Mountains (US) – 1979 – Considered an important early ascent of a 7C  (V9), by John Long. [10]
  • L'Abbé Résina – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1983 – Considered an important early ascent of a 7C  (V9), by Pierre Richard. [155]
Climber on Midnight Lightning Midnight Lightning yosemite.jpg
Climber on Midnight Lightning

7B+  (V8):

7B  (V8):

7A  (V6):

6A  (V3):

Solved by women

8C+  (V16):

8C  (V15):

8B+  (V14):

8B  (V13): [lower-alpha 27]

8A+  (V12):

8A  (V11):

7C+/8A  :

7C+  (V10):

7C  (V9):

7B+  (V8):

Multi-pitch routes

Given the smaller number of entries for multi-pitch and big wall routes, the sections below combine milestones for overall and female ascents. In some cases (e.g. the Salathé Wall and Dawn Wall), the first free ascent was by a climbing pair alternating leads, and in such instances, the first individual to free climb all the pitches is also recorded.

Redpointed

9a  (5.14d):

8c  (5.14b):

  • Bellavista  [ it ] (500-metres, 10-pitches) – Cima Ovest, Dolomites (ITA)– 18 July 2001 – First-ever big wall redpoint at 8c  (5.14b), by Alexander Huber; [182] repeating the route in 2007 (to create Pan Aroma, also 8c), Huber found some key holds were "treated" from a 2005 attempt, and the crux was heavily lined with pegs, which had softened the grade to 8b/8b+. [183] [184]

8b+  (5.14a):

  • Neverending Story (450-metres, 11-pitches) – 7th Kirlichspitze, Rätikon (SUI) – 1991 – First big wall free climb at 8b+  (5.14a), by Beat Kammerlander  [ de ]. [185]
  • The Nose (870-metres, 31-pitches) – El Capitan, Yosemite (USA) – 1993 – Second big wall free climb at 5.14a  (8b+), by Lynn Hill (partnered by Brooke Sandahl); considered as one of the most important ascents in rock climbing history, and a major milestone in female rock climbing; in 1994, Hill repeated it in under 24 hours; took over a decade for the first clean repeat. [186]
  • The "Alpine Trilogy  [ it ]" of 8b+  (5.14a) big wall routes, all freed in 1993–1994:

8a+  (5.13c):

8a  (5.13b):

7c+  (5.13a):

7b+  (5.12c):

  • Regular Northwest Face (740-meters, 24 pitches)--Half Dome, Yosemite (USA)--1976--First big wall free climb at 7b+ (5.12c) by Art Higbee and Jim Erickson. [190] [191] 20 years later, a variation to the crux pitch was found to keep the entire route at 5.12a.
  • Hall of Mirrors (650-meters, 16 pitches)--Glacier Point, Yosemite (USA)--1980--Second big wall free climb at 7b+ (5.12c) by Chris Cantwell, Scott Burk, Scott Cole. [192] [50]
  • Amarcord (400-metres, 9-pitches) – 7th Kirlichspitze, Rätikon (SUI) – 1984 – Third big wall free climb at 7b+  (5.12c), by Martin Scheel  [ de ]. [185]

Free-soloed

7c+  (5.13a):

Alex Honnold's 2017 free solo of Freerider (5.13a, 7c+), El Capitan Alex Honnold El Capitan Free Solo 1.png
Alex Honnold's 2017 free solo of Freerider (5.13a, 7c+), El Capitan

7b+  (5.12c):

The famous "fish" feature on The Fish Route [de], Marmolada Marmolada d'Ombretta - South Face - fish-shaped niche.jpg
The famous "fish" feature on The Fish Route  [ de ], Marmolada

7b  (5.12b):

7a+  (5.12a):

See also

Notes

  1. ↑ Excluded from 9c: Alex Megos's Bibliographie (2020) is excluded post its 2021 downgrade by Stefano Ghisolfi (that Megos agreed with), and Sean Bailey's (2020) further confirmation that it is at 9b+ (it ranks as the fifth-ever 9b+ in history). [3] [4]
  2. ↑ Excluded from 9b+: Bernabè Fernandez  [ es ]'s Chilam Balam  [ fr ] (2003), was an unconfirmed and disputed first ascent that Fernandez proposed at 9b+  (5.15c) (the world's first-ever 9b+), which Adam Ondra regraded to a "low end" 5.15b  (9b) in 2008, and which was further downgraded by later repeaters to a consensus of "hard 9a+ or 9a+/b". [9]
  3. ↑ Excluded from 9b: Dani Andrada  [ fr ]'s Ali Hulk Sit Start Extension (2007) is excluded post its 2021 downgrade to 9a+/b by Alex Garriga, [18] [19] [20] and further downgraded to 9a by Dani Moreno in 2023. [21]
  4. ↑ Excluded from 9b: Dani Andrada  [ fr ]'s Delincuente Natural (2008) is excluded post its 2021 downgrade to 9a by Jonathan Flor, who made the first repeat. [22]
  5. ↑ Excluded from 9b: Fred Rouhling's Akira (1995) is excluded post its 2020 downgrade to 9a by Seb Bouin and Lucien Martinez. [23]
  6. ↑ Not included in 9b: Tommy Caldwell's Flex Luthor (2003) is not included as Matty Hong's 2021 upgrade to 9b included the breaking of over a dozen handholds and twenty footholds, so much so that Hong could not opine on whether it was the same route Caldwell climbed, and Caldwell himself intervened to say that it was not as hard as Jumbo Love. [24] [25] In November 2022, Jonathan Siegrist made the fourth ascent and downgraded it to 9a+  (5.15a) [26]
  7. ↑ Excluded from 9a+: Alexander Huber's Weiße Rose (1994) was graded 8c+ but Adam Ondra's 2008 repeat estimated it at 9a (and potentially 9a+, which would have made it the world first-ever 9a+), however, Jakob Schubert's 2020 repeat confirmed it 9a. [31]
  8. ↑ Excluded from 9a+: Bernabè Fernandez  [ es ]'s Orujo (1998), was an unconfirmed and disputed ascent that Fernandez proposed at 9a+  (5.15a) (the world's first-ever 9a+ at the time), which has not been repeated due to concerns over manufacturing of holds. [32] [33]
  9. ↑ Not included in 8c:Jerry Moffatt's Stone Love (1988), is listed in some climbing databases as the world's second-ever 8c, [37] however, its consensus grade is considered at 8b+. [42]
  10. ↑ Not included in 8b+: Wolfgang Güllich's Dead Line (1986) is listed in some climbing databases as the world's third-ever 8b+, [37] however, its consensus grade is now closer to 8b. [43]
  11. ↑ Not included in 8b: Martin Scheel  [ de ]'s Vuelo a Ciegas Direct (trans: Blind Fight) which was Spain's first 8b and sometimes mistaken as being climbed in 1984, [10] whereas Scheel did the first ascent in 1986. [45]
  12. ↑ Not included in 8a+: Dave Cuthbertson's traditional climb Requiem (1983) is listed in some climbing databases as the world's second-ever 8+, [37] however, its consensus grade is now closer to 8a (or E8 6b in the English traditional grading system). [47]
  13. ↑ Not included in 8a: Peter Cleveland's Phlogiston (1977) at Devil's Lake is sometimes proposed as a first 8a  (5.13b), [10] but it was clarified as a top rope. [48]
  14. ↑ Excluded from 9b: Laura Rogora's 2020 ascent of Dani Andrada  [ fr ]'s Ali Hulk Sit Start Extension (2007), [64] is excluded post its 2021 downgrade from 9b to 9a+/b by Alex Garriga. [18] [19]
  15. ↑ Excluded from 9a: Sasha Digiulian's 2012 ascent of Era Vella, which was at the time considered the fourth-ever female ascent of a 9a. [79] Era Vella has since been downgraded to 8c+/9a in the main climbing databases. [80]
  16. ↑ Not included in 9a: Alizée Dufraisse's 2012 ascent of La Reina Mora, which is sometimes considered as being 9a (thus the fourth-ever female 9a), but the climbing databases regard La Reina Mora as 8c+/9a. [81]
  17. ↑ Excluded from 8c:Kajsa Rosén  [ cs ]'s onsight of T-1 Full Equip in March 2016 was considered a possible first female 8c onsght, [106] but the consensus grade was settled at 8b+ in 2021. [107] [108]
  18. ↑ Not included in 8b+: Katie Brown's onsight of Omaha Beach in 1999 is sometimes mistakenly classed as an 8b+ onsight, [113] however, several holds had broken from the sandstone route since Brown's onsight, and the original route was not considered an 8b+  (5.14a)-graded route. [114] [115]
  19. ↑ Not included in 8b+:Charlotte Durif  [ fr ] lists a number of 8b+ onsights in her personal database: Spider cochon (2008), Ultime démence (2009), Basse température (2009) and Snails paradise (July 2010), that would rank as the earliest 8b+ female onsights, [113] however, they have not been verified in climbing media (unlike Les Rois du Pétrole in 2010). [116]
  20. ↑ Excluded from V17: Charles Albert's No Kpote Only (2019) was proposed at V17 but was downgraded by the first and second repeaters, Ryohei Kameyama (to V16 in 2020) and Nicolas Pelorson respectively (to V15 in 2020). [125]
  21. ↑ Not included in V17: Simon Lorenzi's Soudain Seul (2021), proposed at V17 but repeated by Nicolas Pelorson (2021) who felt it was V16 saying "V17 is impossible for Soudain Seul because you do a V12 before a V14/15"; a second repeat by Camille Coudert (2022) upheld the V17 grade, however, it remains listed as V16 or V16/V17 in the main climbing databases (e.g thecrag). [126] [127]
  22. ↑ Excluded from 8C+: Dai Koyamada's The Wheel of Life (2004), once considered the first 8C+ but since downgraded to 8C  (V15); it links several boulder problems over 68 moves and is now regarded as more a sport climbing route, with grade of 9a  (5.14d). [137]
  23. ↑ Not included in V15: Markus Bock  [ de ]'s Gossip (April 2002) was proposed by Bock at 8B+  (V14) but later revised upwards by Bock to 8C  (V15), [148] however, a first repeat by John Gaskins disputed the grade and felt it was closer to 8B+  (V14); led to a very acrimonious public exchange with Bock. [149] [150] [151]
  24. ↑ Not included in V15: Klem Loskot's Emotional Landscapes SS (November 2002), was originally proposed by Loskot at 8B+  (V14), and Martin Moser's 2004 repeat was silent on the grade (he used different beta), however, Nalle Hukkataival's second repeat in 2014 (who also used different beta) suggested a possible 8C  (V15), one of the world's first; [152] currently listed at 8B+/C (note the standing start is 8A+). [153]
  25. ↑ Excluded from V14: Werner Thom's Zerberus (1997), was downgraded to V13  (8B) on its repeat by Thomas Lindinger in 2017. [156]
  26. ↑ Excluded from V12: Jacky Godoffe  [ it ]'s Partenaire Particulier (1987), which was considered at 8A+  (V12), [10] but has since been regraded to 8A  (V11) in the main climbing databases.
  27. ↑ Not included in V13: Therese Johansen's ascent of Bernd Zangerl  [ fr ]'s Propaganda (May 2011) would have ranked as the third-ever female ascent of a V13  (8B), but she downgraded the boulder herself to hard V12 or maybe V13 after climbing it. [174]

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Dave Graham (climber)</span> American rock climber

David Ethan Graham is an American professional rock climber. Professing to enjoy bouldering the most, he is one of the elite sport climbers and boulderers of his generation. Graham repeats classic routes or boulder problems as well as performing cutting-edge first ascents. He is known for climbing in 2005 an 8C (V15) graded boulder problem called The Story of Two Worlds, in Cresciano, Switzerland). He is also known for his stance against grade inflation and for his strong anti-chipping ethic. He writes an ongoing blog for the website of Climbing Magazine.

Fred Rouhling is a French rock climber and boulderer, noted for creating and repeating some of the earliest grade 9a (5.14d) sport climbing routes in the world, including Hugh in 1993, the first-ever French 9a (5.14d) sport route. Rouhling is also known for the controversy from his proposed grading of 9b (5.15b) for his 1995 route Akira, which would have made it the world's first-ever 9b-graded sport route; 25 years later, it was graded at 9a (5.14d).

Steve McClure is a British rock climber and climbing author, who is widely regarded as Britain's leading and most important sport climber for a period that extends for over two decades, starting from the late 1990s. In 2017, he created Rainman, Britain's first-ever 9b (5.15b) sport route, and by that stage was responsible for developing the majority of routes graded 9a (5.14d) and above in Britain. Although mainly known for sport climbing, McClure has also been one of the most successful British traditional climbers, and British onsight climbers.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Josune Bereziartu</span> Spanish rock climber

Josune Bereziartu, also known as Josune Bereciartu Urruzola, is a Basque rock climber. For a decade starting in the late 1990s, she was considered the strongest female sport climber in the world and is regarded as one of the most important female rock climbers in history.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ramón Julián Puigblanqué</span> Spanish rock climber

Ramón Julián Puigblanque is a professional Spanish rock climber specializing in competition lead climbing and sport climbing. He won two World Championships, in 2007 and 2011, three European Championships, in 2004 2010 and 2015, and one Lead Climbing World Cup in 2010. From 2001 to 2016, he participated in 16 seasons of the World Cup, winning 21 World Cup stages. He has also redpointed several sport routes above 9a (5.14d), and made the first free ascent of La Rambla.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">History of rock climbing</span> Key chronological milestones

In the history of rock climbing, the three main sub-disciplines—bouldering, single-pitch climbing, and big wall climbing—can trace their origins to late 19th-century Europe. Bouldering started in Fontainebleau, and was advanced by Pierre Allain in the 1930s, and John Gill in the 1950s. Big wall climbing started in the Dolomites, and was spread across the Alps in the 1930s by climbers such as Emilio Comici and Riccardo Cassin, and in the 1950s by Walter Bonatti, before reaching Yosemite where it was led in the 1950s to 1970s by climbers such as Royal Robbins. Single-pitch climbing started pre-1900 in both the Lake District and in Saxony, and by the late-1970s had spread widely with climbers such as Ron Fawcett (Britain), Bernd Arnold (Germany), Patrick Berhault (France), Ron Kauk and John Bachar (USA).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Adam Ondra</span> Czech climber (born 1993)

Adam Ondra is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing. In 2013, Rock & Ice described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Ondra is the only male athlete to have won World Championship titles in both disciplines in the same year (2014) and is one of the two male athletes to have won the World Cup series in both disciplines.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">The Wheel of Life</span> Bouldering route in Australia

The Wheel of Life is a 21-metre (69 ft) long sandstone bouldering route on the roof of the Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians of Australia. When first solved, it was graded at 8C+ (V16), one of the world's first-ever boulder routes at that grade. With repeats, it was graded at 8C (V15), and some consider it to really be a sport climbing traverse route, at the sport grade of 9a (5.14d).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ashima Shiraishi</span> American rock climber (born 2001)

Ashima Shiraishi is an American rock climber. Shiraishi started climbing at the age of six at Rat Rock in Central Park, joining her father. Only a few years later, she quickly established herself as one of the top boulderers and sport climbers in the world. Her numerous accolades include first-place finishes in international competitions, and multiple first female and youngest ascents. Shiraishi is featured in several short documentary-style films, and is the subject of the documentary short "Return to the Red" (2012).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Angela Eiter</span> Austrian professional climber

Angela "Angy" Eiter is an Austrian professional rock climber who specialises in competition climbing and sport climbing. In competition lead climbing, she won three IFSC World Cups in a row (2004–2006), and four IFSC World Championships. In 2011, she achieved her 25th win in World Cup and her 42nd podium. She is also one of the strongest sport climbers in the world, and in 2017, became the first-ever female in history to climb a 9b (5.15b) route, La Planta de Shiva. In 2020, she became the first-ever female in history to complete the first free ascent (FFA) of a 9b (5.15b) route, Madame Ching.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ethan Pringle</span> American rock climber (born 1986)

Ethan Pringle is an American rock climber with notable ascents in sport climbing, in traditional climbing, and in bouldering. He has also been active in competition climbing, winning the American national competition lead climbing championships in both youth and adult formats, and silver at the World Youth Championships.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Alexander Megos</span> German rock climber

Alexander Megos is a German rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering and competition climbing. In 2013, he became the first-ever climber to onsight a 9a (5.14d) graded route. He has made the first free ascent (FFA) of some of the hardest sport climbing routes in the world, including two 9b+ (5.15c) routes, three 9b (5.15b) routes, and several boulders with a boulder 8C (V15) rating.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jakob Schubert</span> Austrian rock climber

Jakob Schubert is an Austrian professional rock climber, specializing in competition climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering. He was four times World Champion and three times World Cup winner in lead climbing. In August 2021, he won bronze at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo. As of the end of 2022, Schubert had won the most men's IFSC gold medals of any male competition climber in history. In addition to competition climbing, Schubert is the only climber in the world to have redpointed a 9c (5.15d) graded sport climbing route and climbed a 9A (V17) graded bouldering problem.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Stefano Ghisolfi</span> Italian rock climber (born 1993)

Stefano Ghisolfi is an Italian professional rock climber, who specializes in competition climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering. In competition climbing, he completes in competition lead climbing, competition bouldering, and competition speed climbing, with lead being his strongest discipline. As a sport climber, he has redpointed sport climbing routes of grade 9b+ (5.15c), onsighted routes of 8c (5.14b), and solved boulder problems at grade 8B+ (V14). In December 2018, after climbing Perfecto Mundo, he became the fourth climber in history to redpoint a 9b+ (5.15c) route.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Silence (climb)</span> Sport climbing route in Norway

Silence, is a 45-metre (148 ft) overhanging sport climbing route in the granite Hanshelleren Cave, in Flatanger, Norway. When Czech climber Adam Ondra made the first free ascent on 3 September 2017, it became the first rock climb in the world to have a proposed climbing grade of 9c (5.15d), and it is an important route in rock climbing history. To complete the route, Ondra undertook specialist physical and mental training to overcome its severely overhanging terrain. As of April 2024, Silence remains unrepeated.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hubble (climb)</span> Sport climbing route in England

Hubble is a short 10-metre (33 ft) bolted sport climb at the limestone crag of Raven Tor in Millers Dale, in the Peak District in Derbyshire, England. When Hubble was first redpointed by English climber Ben Moon on 14 June 1990, it became the first-ever climb in the world to have a consensus climbing grade of 8c+ (5.14c); and the highest grade in the English system at E9 7b.

Sébastien Bouin, nicknamed Seb Bouin, is a French rock climber born in Draguignan. By 2022, Bouin is regarded as one of the strongest sport climbers in the world, being only the second-ever climber to establish a route graded 9c (5.15d), with DNA in 2022, and one of only a handful of climbers to create a new route at the grade of 9b+ (5.15c). Bouin is also regarded for his documentary series on the history of extreme sport climbing in France.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">William Bosi</span> Scottish rock climber (born 1998)

William (Will) Bosi is a Scottish professional rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering and competition climbing. Bosi is only the second British sport climber in history to redpoint a 9b (5.15b) graded sport climbing route, and by 2023, was one of only a small group of climbers in the world to have completed a V17 (9A) boulder.

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