Free solo climbing

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Free solo climbing, or free soloing, is a form of rock climbing where the climbers (or free soloists) climb solo (or alone) without ropes or other protective equipment, using only their climbing shoes and their climbing chalk. [1] Free soloing is the most dangerous form of climbing, and, unlike bouldering, free soloists climb above safe heights, where a fall can be fatal. Though many climbers have free soloed climbing grades they are very comfortable on, only a tiny group free solo regularly, and at grades closer to the limit of their abilities. [2]

Contents

Some climbers' profiles have been increased by free soloing (e.g. Alex Honnold and John Bachar), but some question the ethics of this, and whether the risks they are undertaking should be encouraged and commercially rewarded. [3] [4] "Free solo" was originally a term of climber slang, but after the popularity of the Oscar-winning film Free Solo , Merriam-Webster officially added the word to their English dictionary in September 2019. [5]

In addition to free soloing on single-pitch and multi-pitch–including the even longer big wall climbing that features in the Free Solo film–rock climbs, free soloing is performed in a wide range of climbing types including, ice climbing and mixed climbing (which feature in The Alpinist film), as well as setting speed climbing records on alpine climbing routes (i.e. a mixture of rock and ice climbing), which features in the Race to the Summit film.

Description

Free solo climbing (sometimes referred to as soloing in the UK, or third-classing in the US), [6] is where the climber uses no climbing protection whatsoever (and as with all free climbing, no form of climbing aid is used either); [6] they may only use their climbing shoes and climbing chalk to ascend a single-pitch, or a multi-pitch/big wall climbing route. [6] Free solo climbing is a special form of free climbing but is different from the main forms of free climbing, sport climbing and traditional climbing, which use climbing protection for safety. In theory bouldering is also free solo climbing (i.e. it also uses no aid or protection) but is usually not referred to as such except in the case of Highball bouldering, where falls can be serious. [6] The most committing forms of free soloing are on multi-pitch–and the even longer big wall–routes, where any retreat is very difficult. [6]

In alpine climbing the term solo climbing–as distinct from free solo climbing–can be used where the solo climber carries a rope and some aid climbing equipment to overcome some of the most difficult sections. [7] In addition, the term rope soloing is used for any solo climber who uses a rope and a form of self-locking device for continuous climbing protection on the route; this is also not considered as free solo climbing. [7]

Many early 20th-century rock climbers who began to free climb (i.e., avoiding any form of aid), were often practicing free solo climbing (or rope soloing), as the effectiveness of their climbing protection (usually a rope around their waist) was minimal. In the history of rock climbing, the first ascent of Napes Needle by W. P. Haskett Smith in June 1886 – an act that is widely considered to be the start of the sport of rock climbing – was effectively a free solo. [8] Early leaders of free climbing such as Paul Preuss, were also strongly interested in free solo climbing as being ethically purer. The 1958 ascent by Don Whillans of Goliath, one of the world's first E4 6a routes, was effectively a free solo (with a rope around his waist). [9] [10] By the 1970s, when climbing protection was sufficiently developed to be effective, the discipline of free solo climbing began to stand apart. [6]

Public view

Many climbers praise free soloing, while others have concerns regarding the danger and the message the ascents send to other climbers. [11] Many companies have taken these views into account when working with free soloists. Clif Bar, the nutrition bar company with long ties to climbing, dropped the sponsorship of five climbers in 2014, citing the risks they take and stirring a debate about how much risk should be rewarded. [12]

However, The North Face and Red Bull have promoted free soloists and helped the free soloing community grow. [13] [14] In addition, Alex Honnold, a free soloist who was previously dropped by Clif Bar, [15] was featured in the 2018 documentary Free Solo , which was met with critical acclaim and won the Academy Award for Best Documentary Feature. The director of Free Solo, Jimmy Chin, talks in the film about the ethics of undertaking the documentary, and the effect that his film team and project could have had on the outcome.

Even in the climbing community, free soloing is controversial. In 2022, when Climbing did a feature on free soloing, they caveated all articles with: "This article is not an endorsement of the practice", and emphasized that in their research amongst climbers, it was only practiced by a very small minority, with many telling Climbing: "I have in the past but not anymore". [6]

Notable climbers

Alain Robert free solo of Pol Pot (5.12d, 7c), Verdon Gorge, 1996 Alain-robert-wikipedia.jpg
Alain Robert free solo of Pol Pot (5.12d, 7c), Verdon Gorge, 1996
Steph Davis free solo of Outer Limits (5.11a), Yosemite, c2002 StephDavisSoloOuterLimits.jpg
Steph Davis free solo of Outer Limits (5.11a), Yosemite, c2002

While many rock climbers have free soloed routes (single-pitch or big wall/multi-pitch), at climbing grades well below their ability, a very small minority have practiced free soloing regularly, and at grades closer to their overall limits. The most prominent of this smaller group are those who have broken new grade milestones in free solo climbing and gained a significant profile from their soloing: [6]

In addition, several other free solo practitioners are considered historically notable in free solo climbing and include the following: Patrick Edlinger, Ron Fawcett, Christophe Profit  [ fr ], Brad Gobright, Dan Goodwin, Colin Haley, Derek Hersey, Jimmy Jewell, John Long, Dave MacLeod, Dan Osman, Dean Potter, Paul Preuss, and Tobin Sorenson. [6]

Free soloing is less common amongst female rock climbers, however, as well as Catherine Destivelle, the following female climbers are historically notable free solo practitioners: Steph Davis and Brette Harrington, both of whom have free soloed single-pitch and big wall routes. [6]

Evolution of grade milestones

Single-pitch routes

Heinz Zak [de] free soloing Separate Reality in 2005; Zak had taken the iconic photograph of Wolfgang Gullich making the first free solo of Separate Reality in 1986 Heinz Zak, Separate Reality 5,11d, Free Solo, Yosemite-Nationalpark, Kalifornien, USA.jpg
Heinz Zak  [ de ] free soloing Separate Reality in 2005; Zak had taken the iconic photograph of Wolfgang Güllich making the first free solo of Separate Reality in 1986

Big wall, multi-pitch routes

Alex Honnold's 2017 free solo of Freerider (5.13a, 7c+), El Capitan Alex Honnold El Capitan Free Solo 1.png
Alex Honnold's 2017 free solo of Freerider (5.13a, 7c+), El Capitan

Climber fatalities

Michael Reardon - free soloing in Joshua Tree.jpg
Michael Reardon free soloing Lower Right Ski Track (5.10b) in Joshua Tree National Park, 2007.
Downhill Racer, Froggatt Edge - geograph.org.uk - 1156915.jpg
Derek Hersey, free soloing Downhill Racer (E1 6a), Froggatt Edge, 1979

A number of notable free solo practitioners have died while free soloing: [6]

Climbing magazine reported that a number of prominent free solo practitioners died in related or other extreme sports, including: Dan Osman (died at age 35 while rope jumping at Yosemite), Michael Reardon (died age 42 while rock climbing sea cliffs when he was carried out to sea by a rogue wave), Dean Potter (died age 43 while wingsuit flying when he crashed at Yosemite), Brad Gobright (died age 31 while abseiling at Potrero Chico), and Hansjorg Auer (died age 35 in an avalanche at Howse Peak). [6]

Free soloing in other formats
Andreas pa is.jpg
Climber free soloing the famous Lipton (WI7), in Rjukan, Norway.
White Rhino Tea Deep Water Solo.jpg
Climber deep-water soloing White Rhino Tea (f7a), in Devon, England.

In film

A number of notable films have been made focused on free solo climbing (both on rock and on ice) including: [32]

See also

Notes

  1. The film includes a public dispute between the pair when Arnold used the in-situ fixed ropes on the Hinterstoisser traverse on the Eiger during his record ascent, which Steck felt violated Arnold's ascent as being a proper free solo

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Climbing</span> Activity to ascend a steep object

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Climbing route</span> Path to scale a mountain, rock, or ice wall

A climbing route is a path by which a climber reaches the top of a mountain, or rock/ice-covered obstacle. The details of a climbing route are recorded in a climbing guidebook and/or in an online climbing route database, and will include elements such as the type of climbing route, the difficulty grade of the route–and beta on its crux(es)–and any risk or commitment grade, the length and number of pitches of the route, and the climbing equipment needed to complete the route.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">El Capitan</span> Vertical rock formation in Yosemite National Park

El Capitan is a vertical rock formation in Yosemite National Park, on the north side of Yosemite Valley, near its western end. The granite monolith is about 3,000 feet (914 m) from base to summit along its tallest face and is a world-famous location for big wall climbing, including the disciplines of aid climbing, free climbing, and more recently for free solo climbing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Alexander Huber</span> German rock climber

Alexander Huber is a German rock climber who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of rock climbing. Huber came to prominence in the early 1990s as the world's strongest sport climber after the passing of Wolfgang Güllich. He is the second-ever person to redpoint a 9a (5.14d) graded route by ascending Om in 1992, and has latterly come to be known as the first-ever person to redpoint a 9a+ (5.15a) graded route from his 1996 ascent of Open Air.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Solo climbing</span> Style of climbing performed alone

Solo climbing, or soloing, is a style of climbing in which the climber climbs a route alone, without the assistance of a belayer. By its very nature, it presents a higher degree of risk to the climber, and in some cases, is considered extremely high risk. Note that the use of the term "solo climbing" is generally separate from the action of bouldering, which is itself a form of solo climbing, but with less serious consequences in the case of a fall. The most dangerous form of solo climbing is free solo climbing, which means both climbing alone and without any form of climbing protection.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Multi-pitch climbing</span> Type of climbing

Multi-pitch climbing is a type of climbing that typically takes place on routes that are more than a single rope length in height, and thus where the lead climber cannot complete the climb as a single pitch. Where the number of pitches exceeds 6–10, it can become big wall climbing, or where the pitches are in a mixed rock and ice mountain environment, it can become alpine climbing. Multi-pitch rock climbs can come in traditional, sport, and aid formats. Some have free soloed multi-pitch routes.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tommy Caldwell</span> American rock climber

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<i>Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome</i> Multi-pitch climbing route in Yosemite, US

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Rope solo climbing</span> Type of solo climbing with protection

Rope-solo climbing or rope-soloing is a form of solo climbing, but unlike with free solo climbing, which is also performed alone and with no climbing protection whatsoever, the rope-solo climber uses a mechanical self-belay device and rope system, which enables them to use the standard climbing protection to protect themselves in the event of a fall.

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The Nose is a big wall climbing route up El Capitan. Once considered impossible to climb, El Capitan is now the standard for big wall climbing. It is recognized in the historic climbing text Fifty Classic Climbs of North America and considered a classic around the world.

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The Salathé Wall is one of the original big wall climbing routes up El Capitan, a 3,000-foot (900 m) high granite monolith in Yosemite National Park. The Salathé Wall was named by Yvon Chouinard in honor of John Salathé, a pioneer of rock climbing in Yosemite. The route is recognized in the historic climbing text Fifty Classic Climbs of North America and is considered a classic around the world.

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Alpine climbing</span> Type of mountaineering

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Marc-André Leclerc was a Canadian rock climber, ice and mixed climber, and alpinist. He is known for his solo ascents–often in winter–of major ice and alpine climbing routes. In 2016, he completed the first winter solo ascents of both Torre Egger in Patagonia and of the Emperor Face of Mount Robson in Canada. In 2018, he was killed in an avalanche on the Mendenhall Towers in Alaska.

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The Alpinist is a 2021 American documentary film directed by Peter Mortimer and Nick Rosen about Marc-André Leclerc, a free-spirited and little-known 23-year-old Canadian rock climber, ice climber, and alpinist. From 2015 to 2016, a film crew followed Leclerc as he solo climbed some of the most difficult and dangerous alpine climbing routes in the world.

References

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