 | This article relies largely or entirely on a single source .(April 2023) |
The North Face is the northern side of Mount Everest. [1] George Mallory's body was found on the North face. [1] The North Face is a place where one author/climber noted, "a simple slip would mean death." [1]
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Green line | Standard route from north, mainly identical with Mallory's route in 1924; high camps on c.7700 m and 8300 m (indicated by two triangles), present day camp on 8300 m is located a bit further west (for general reference, the route's topographic map and elevation profile can be found here). |
Navy blue line | Zakharov Couloir. |
Light blue line | Messner's traverse from north ridge to Norton Couloir in 1980 ("Everest Solo by Fair Means") w/o O2. |
Red line | Great Couloir or Norton Couloir. |
Purple line | Complete northeast ridge with Three Pinnacles ; Japanese route to the top. Climbed before by Russell Brice & Comp., but only the purple-marked part of the ridge, without going to the summit; descent via standard route. |
Yellow line and Dark blue line | American 1963, "The West Ridge". |
Orange line | Yugoslavian route, 1979. |
Dark blue line | Hornbein Couloir. |
| †1 | Resting place of Mallory's body, discovered in 1999 (graveyard with more than 15 bodies, according to Conrad Anker). |
| †2 | 1st Step, resting place of Francys Arsentiev, "Green Boots", David Sharp. |
| †3 | 2nd Pinnacle, resting place of Peter Boardman (+1982) in 1992. |
| ? | 2nd step, base at 8605 m, c.30 m high, (difficulty: 5–9/10). |
| (a) | Point at ca. 8321 m, reached by George Ingle Finch with supplementary oxygen in 1922. |
| (b) | Point at 8572.8 m on the western side of the Couloir, reached by Edward Felix Norton 1924 without supplementary oxygen (Norton preferred climbing the wall rather than climbing the ridge). |
| (c) | Area left out by the Yugoslavian party on their "complete West Ridge" ascent in 1979. |
| (d) | Difficult area that forced Americans, Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld, to traverse from the west ridge to the north face in 1963. |
| Changtse is in the foreground |
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The 1979 Yugoslav Mount Everest expedition was the first successful summit of Mount Everest (8,848m) using the entire West Ridge route in the North Face of Everest. It was the seventh expedition in the Himalayas by the Yugoslav alpinist team, and their first ascent to the highest peak of Mount Everest. The route became known as the "Yugoslavian route" after the first successful ascent. The Yugoslav state leadership declared this ascent the greatest achievement of Yugoslav sports up to that time.
