Loden cape

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Loden ladies coat

A loden cape is an overcoat of Tyrolean origin, made of a thick, water-resistant woolen material with a short pile known as loden cloth, first produced by peasants in Austria. This fabric is derived from the coarse, oily wool of mountain sheep and has a traditional earthy green colour. The name is derived from Middle High German "lode" or from Old High German "lodo", meaning "coarse cloth". [1] It is a cloth of traditional Tracht worn in Tyrol.

To produce loden cloth, strong yarns are woven loosely into cloth which then undergoes a lengthy process of shrinking, eventually acquiring the texture of felt and becoming quite dense. It is then brushed with a fuller's teasel and the nap is clipped, a process which is repeated a number of times until the resulting fabric provides good warmth for the weight, and is relatively supple, windproof, and extremely durable. [2] It is a subclass of the wools known as "melton". [3]

A similar type of woolen cloth manufacturing comes from the Belgian village of Duffel, giving name to the British Royal Navy Duffel coat, a coat that has most probably partly been produced from Melton wool.

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Textile</span> Various fiber-based materials

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Animal fiber</span> Natural fiber from animals like silk worms and sheep

Animal fibers are natural fibers that consist largely of certain proteins. Examples include silk, hair/fur and feathers. The animal fibers used most commonly both in the manufacturing world as well as by the hand spinners are wool from domestic sheep and silk. Also very popular are alpaca fiber and mohair from Angora goats. Unusual fibers such as Angora wool from rabbits and Chiengora from dogs also exist, but are rarely used for mass production.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Alpaca fiber</span>

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Duvetyne, or duvetyn, is a twill fabric with a velvet-like nap on one side. Duvetyne has a matte finish and its high opacity makes it ideal for blocking light.

Melton cloth is traditionally made of wool and is woven in a twill form. It is thick, due to having been well fulled, which gives it a felt-like smooth surface. It is napped and very closely sheared. Meltons are similar to Mackinaw cloth. It is a very solid cloth in which the twill weave pattern is completely concealed due to the finishing processes. Because of its dense, quasi-felted texture it frays minimally or not at all. It is hard wearing and wind and weather resistant. Its main use is for heavy outer garments and coats and for blankets. In lighter weights melton cloth is traditionally used for lining the underside of jacket collars.

References

  1. "Definition of 'loden'". Collins Dictionary. Retrieved June 26, 2016.
  2. John Vinocur (October 11, 1981). "World shopper; in the land of London, European preppy". The New York Times . Retrieved June 26, 2016.
  3. "Coarser or thick heavy fabrics". Vintage Fashion Guild. Retrieved June 26, 2016.