Carmel Snow

Last updated
Carmel Snow
Born
Carmel White

(1887-08-21)August 21, 1887
DiedMay 7, 1961(1961-05-07) (aged 73)
OccupationMagazine editor
EmployerVogue, Harper's Bazaar
Carmel Snow commemorative stamp 2020 Carmel snow.jpg
Carmel Snow commemorative stamp 2020

Carmel Snow, born Carmel White (21 August 1887 7 May 1961), was the editor-in-chief of the American edition of Harper's Bazaar from 1934 to 1958; she also served as the chair of that magazine's editorial board. [1] [2] [3] She was famously quoted as saying, "Elegance is good taste, plus a dash of daring". [4]

Contents

History

Early life

She was born in St Justin's, Dalkey, Dublin, to Peter White, a merchant tailor, and Annie Meyne. [5]

After her father's death from pneumonia on April 7, 1893, [1] she and her mother Annie moved to America. [1] Her mother eventually became a noted dressmaker for rich New York socialites. [1]

In 1903 Carmel attended school at a convent in Brussels; the Soeurs de Sainte-Marie is where she mastered her understanding of French. [4]

Career

In 1921 she was introduced to Vogue editor Edna Woolman Chase by Anne Rittenhouse, for whom she had done a favor; [6] Condé Nast subsequently offered her the job of assistant fashion editor. [1]

In 1926 she was appointed as fashion editor at Vogue. [1] [7] In 1926, she also married George Palen Snow; wearing a gown of cream white satin trimmed with seed pearls and old Burano lace that had been in her family for many years. [1] [8] She later had three daughters; it was rumored that one of them suffered from schizophrenia, but this diagnosis has not been confirmed. [1] [9]

In 1929 her brother Tom White became general manager of the Hearst publishing organization. [1] Though Carmel had promised Condé Nast she would not take a job there, she did take a job at Harper's Bazaar . [1] She famously described her goal at Harper's Bazaar as creating a magazine for "well-dressed women with well-dressed minds". [4]

She discovered Martin Munkacsi, and in 1933 and persuaded him to photograph the Harper’s Bazaar December edition’s ‘Palm Beach’ bathing suit editorial. [1] For this editorial, he had the model Lucille Brokaw run toward the camera while he photographed, which was the first instance of a fashion model being photographed in motion. [1] [4]

She became editor-in-chief of Harper's Bazaar in 1934. [1]

She hired her art director Alexey Brodovitch on the basis of a 1934 exhibition of his work in graphic design at the Art Directors Club of New York. [4] She described his exhibit as a revelation, mentioning "pages that bled beautifully, cropped photographs, typography and design that were bold and interesting". [4] She found her fashion editor, Diana Vreeland, after noticing her dancing across a crowded room. [4] [10]

In 1947 she exclaimed, "It's such a new look!", thus coining that phrase in regard to Christian Dior's 1947 collection. [11] [12]

Snow died in 1961, while she was working with her long-time collaborator Mary Louis Aswell on her memoir, The World of Carmel Snow. [1] [13] The book was published posthumously. [4]

Legacy

As to why Carmel's reputation faded, while Vreeland's did not, photographer Richard Avedon (quoted in a 2005 biography [14] of Carmel by Penelope Rowlands) said: "She was older, right? and she died before stardom was the thing." [4]

In 2020, Snow was one of a number of famous Irish people featured on stamps by An Post. [15]

Further reading

Related Research Articles

<i>Harpers Bazaar</i> American monthly womens fashion magazine

Harper's Bazaar is an American monthly women's fashion magazine published by New York City-based Hearst. It was first published in 1867 as the weekly Harper's Bazar. The current editor-in-chief of the U.S. edition is Samira Nasr.

Diana Vreeland American fashion columnist and editor

Diana Vreeland was a French-American columnist and editor in the field of fashion. She worked for the fashion magazines Harper's Bazaar and Vogue, being the editor-in-chief of the latter, and as a special consultant at the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. She was named on the International Best Dressed List Hall of Fame in 1964.

Vogue is an American monthly fashion and lifestyle magazine covering many topics, including fashion, beauty, culture, living, and runway. Based in New York City, it began as a weekly newspaper in 1892, before becoming a monthly magazine years later.

Anna Wintour Current editor of American Vogue magazine, Conde Nast artistic director

Dame Anna Wintour is a British-American journalist who has served as editor-in-chief of Vogue since 1988 and global chief content officer for Condé Nast since 2020; she is also artistic director of Condé Nast and global editorial director of Vogue. With her trademark pageboy bob haircut and dark sunglasses, Wintour has become an important figure in much of the fashion world, praised for her eye for emerging fashion trends. Her reportedly aloof and demanding personality has earned her the nickname "Nuclear Wintour".

Carrie Donovan was an American fashion editor for Vogue, Harper's Bazaar and The New York Times Magazine. In the 1990s she became known for her work in Old Navy commercials where she wore her trademark large eyeglasses and black clothing, often declaring the merchandise "Fabulous!". In almost all of the commercials, she appeared alongside Magic the dog and various other stars from TV and fashion.

Tatjana Patitz German model and actress

Tatjana Patitz is a German model and actress who achieved international prominence in the 1980s and 1990s representing fashion designers on runways and in magazines such as Elle, Harper's Bazaar, and Vogue. Patitz is one of the big five supermodels who appeared in the 1990 music video "Freedom! '90" by George Michael, and is associated with the editorial, advertising, and fine-art works of photographers Herb Ritts and Peter Lindbergh.

Toni Frissell

Antoinette Frissell Bacon, known as Toni Frissell, was an American photographer, known for her fashion photography, World War II photographs, and portraits of famous Americans, Europeans, children, and women from all walks of life.

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Louise Dahl-Wolfe

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Sybil Connolly

Sybil Connolly was a Dublin-based fashion designer who was known for creating fashion from Irish textiles, including finely pleated linen, wools such as Báinín, Limerick and Carrickmacross lace, and later for her work with brands such as Tiffany & Co.. Her fashion label's famous clients included Jacqueline Kennedy.

Polly Allen Mellen has been a stylist and fashion editor for more than 60 years at Harper's Bazaar and Vogue. From 1991 to 1999 she was the creative director of Allure. Mellen formally retired from Conde Nast Publications in 1994 and remains a consultant on various projects.

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Mary Jane Russell

Mary Jane Russell was a successful New York-based American photographic fashion model between 1948 and 1961. She often worked with Louise Dahl-Wolfe and Irving Penn, and appeared on many covers for Vogue and Harper's Bazaar during the course of her modelling career. Her husband was Edward Russell, who became president of the advertising agency Doyle Dane Bernbach.

Penelope Rowlands is an Anglo-American author, editor, and journalist best known for her 2005 biography, A Dash of Daring: Carmel Snow and Her Life in Fashion, Art, and Letters, about the Irish-born editor-in-chief of Harper's Bazaar.

Marie-Louise Bousquet was a French fashion journalist and former Paris editor of Harper's Bazaar. She is credited with being one of the first to recognise the potential of Christian Dior in 1938, introducing him to Carmel Snow who in 1947, would be instrumental in publicising Dior's first couture collection.

Gleb Derujinsky was an American fashion photographer. He worked for Esquire, Look, Life, Glamour, Town and Country and The New York Times Magazine, before shooting extensively for Harper’s Bazaar. Eileen Ford, founder of Ford Models agency, described him as an “early visionary on a path that others were to follow”.

Sarajane Hoare is a British fashion journalist, director, and stylist who, since the 1980s has worked for British Vogue, Vanity Fair, and Harper's Bazaar. She has been instrumental in developing the career of photographer Herb Ritts, shoe designer Tamara Mellon, and journalist Kate Phelan.

References

  1. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 "Women's Museum of Ireland | Articles | Carmel Snow". Womensmuseumofireland.ie. 2017-07-14. Retrieved 2018-06-11.
  2. "CARMEL SNOW: TEN INFLUENTIALS - 10 Magazine10 Magazine". 10magazine.com. Retrieved 2018-06-11.
  3. John Giacobello (2003). Careers in the Fashion Industry. The Rosen Publishing Group. pp. 106–. ISBN   978-0-8239-4082-0.
  4. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Penelope Rowlands (2005). A Dash of Daring: Carmel Snow and Her Life in Fashion, Art, and Letters. Atria Books, Simon & Schuster. pp. FM–. ISBN   0743480457.
  5. "General Registrar's Office" (PDF). IrishGenealogy.ie. Retrieved 13 March 2019.
  6. Condé Nast: The Man and His Empire -- A Biography, by Susan Ronald, published September 2019 by St. Martin's Publishing Group
  7. "Meet The Irish Woman Who Ruled New York Fashion".
  8. "MISS WHIBRIDE OF GEOR6Ii P, 5NOW: Daughier of Mrs., Edward Vc:l Pelt Douglas Married at tho Home of Her Mother. ELIZABi'H SINGER WEDS Bishop $tlres Officiates at Her Marriage to H, de R. Lancaster In St.' Thomas's -- Other Nuptials.'". ProQuest   103654389.Cite journal requires |journal= (help)
  9. "Before There Was Vreeland: A biography of Carmel Snow, who brought quality fiction and photography into fashion magazines". ProQuest   93027084.Cite journal requires |journal= (help)
  10. Vreeland, Diana (1985) [1984]. D. V. New York: Vintage. pp. 116–117. ISBN   0-394-73161-1.
  11. Company History at Dior's website Archived 7 November 2008 at the Wayback Machine
  12. "History of Christian Dior S.A." fundinguniverse.com.
  13. "Carmel Snow, Editor, Dies at 73; Headed Harper's Bazaar Board: Leader in Fashion World on Both Sides of Atlantic Had Started With Vogue". ProQuest   115429911.Cite journal requires |journal= (help)
  14. "A Dash of Daring". The New Yorker. Retrieved 2018-06-13.
  15. Pollak, Sorcha (5 March 2020). "Pioneering Irish women feature in An Post's stamp set". The Irish Times. Retrieved 2020-03-09.