Fremyn Alezard (died 1584) was a French shoemaker based in Edinburgh who worked for Mary, Queen of Scots and subsequently her political rivals.
His name was recorded in various spellings including; Fremyne Allisarde, Fernim Alezart, and Flemyng Allasart. In Scotland a shoemaker was called a cordiner. Alezard made slippers and cork-soled pantoufle from fine velvet and imported leather for Mary, Lord Darnley, their son James VI, James Stewart, Earl of Moray, and a largely aristocratic clientele. [1]
Fremyn Alezard was appointed as a member of the queen's household, among the gens de mestier, the royal artisans. [2]
The record of Mary's wardrobe kept by Servais de Condé mentions black velvet delivered to the shoemaker, probably Alezard, for the queen's shoes, soulliers, and pantoufles, slippers. The shoes were lined with black taffeta. [3] There were still 36 pairs of Mary's velvet shoes with gold and silver trim in Edinburgh Castle in 1578. [4] Both velvet and leather shoes were sent to Mary when she was a prisoner in Lochleven Castle in 1567, [5] and in 1568 mules and "marikyn" leather shoes made by "Fremyne Allasard" were sent to her at Bolton Castle. [6] "Marikyn" is a Scots language word meaning goatskin leather, originally sourced from Morocco. [7]
The records of shoes made for Elizabeth I suggest that she wore only velvet shoes before 1564, when she started to order Spanish leather shoes and slippers, perhaps following the example of her servant Aura Soltana. [8] Shoes for Elizabeth I at this time were made by Garret Johnson. [9]
After Mary was exiled in England there were at least 36 pairs of her velvet shoes "of sundry colours" stored in Edinburgh Castle. [10] In July 1568 Alezard went to France for a time and before he left, Regent Moray paid his bill for mules and shoes. [11]
In January 1572, some of the supporters of Mary, Queen of Scots in Edinburgh were summoned to appear at Leith for their disloyalty to the Regent. Alezard was probably the "French sutar" or cobbler included in a list of their names. [12]
The young king's shoes came to be made by Henry Quhite or White. A detailed bill for the king's shoes from Quhite in 1576 lists velvet mules and "pantons" and "marikin" leather shoes stitched with silk. [13]
Fremyn Alezard died on 11 November 1584. Alezard's shoemaking stock, listed in his will, in 1584 included two kinds of leather, cork, and 7 pairs of mules & shoes priced at 30 shillings the pair. He had a significant quantity of money in gold coin. He was owed money by Robert Douglas the young Laird of Lochleven, Adam Erskine, Commendator of Cambuskenneth, the Laird of Findlater, the Earl of Mar, the Earl of Angus, Esmé Stewart, 1st Duke of Lennox, Colonel William Stewart, Sir Thomas Erskine, the Master of Orkney, and John Bog, porter of the royal palace of Holyroodhouse. [14]
He was married to Jacquette Pranger or Peanger and they had four daughters, Charlotte, Katherine, Agnes or Amé, and Frances.
After his death in 1584, Alezard's family made efforts to recover money owed to his estate. His daughter Charlotte had married Pasquier Bernard, a surgeon in Orléans, and he was the legal guardian or tutor of her younger sisters. He petitioned Henry III of France for help, and Henry III wrote to King James VI in May 1588. Jacquette Peanger had entrusted 500 or 600 Écu with Nicholas Langlois, the French schoolmaster in Edinburgh (and father of Esther Inglis), and the goldsmith Thomas Foulis for the benefit of her younger children. Pasquier Bernard asked for the money to be returned, but instead Langlois insisted two of the children should be sent back to Edinburgh from Orléans. Henry III made Pasquier Bernard's case to James VI, according to the amity and auld alliance between the two nations. [15]
The Mary Queen of Scots House at Jedburgh has a high-heeled black satin shoe said to have been discarded by Mary when she rode to Hermitage Castle.
In England, Mary continued to wear high-heeled slippers which she called "mules haultes". In January 1586 she advised the French ambassador Guillaume de l'Aubespine de Châteauneuf that because she often received new slippers, they would be an ideal place to conceal secret messages in the cork soles and heels. He should be sure that the slippers with secret letters should be discretely marked on the sole with a fingernail. [16]
James Stewart, 1st Earl of Moray was a member of the House of Stewart as the illegitimate son of King James V of Scotland. At times a supporter of his half-sister Mary, Queen of Scots, he was the regent of Scotland for his half-nephew, the infant King James VI, from 1567 until his assassination in 1570. He was the first head of government to be assassinated with a firearm.
Lochleven Castle is a ruined castle on an island in Loch Leven, in the Perth and Kinross local authority area of Scotland. Possibly built around 1300, the castle was the site of military action during the Wars of Scottish Independence (1296–1357). In the latter part of the 14th century, the castle was granted to William Douglas, 1st Earl of Douglas, by his uncle. It remained in the Douglases' hands for the next 300 years. Mary, Queen of Scots, was imprisoned there in 1567–68, and forced to abdicate as queen, before escaping with the help of her gaoler's family. In 1588, the queen's gaoler inherited the title of Earl of Morton, and moved away from the castle. In 1675, Sir William Bruce, an architect, bought the castle and used it as a focal point for his garden; it was never again used as a residence.
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Kinneil House is a historic house to the west of Bo'ness in east-central Scotland. It was once the principal seat of the Hamilton family in the east of Scotland. The house was saved from demolition in 1936 when 16th-century mural paintings were discovered, and it is now in the care of Historic Environment Scotland. The house now consists of a symmetrical mansion built in 1677 on the remains of an earlier 16th- or 15th-century tower house, with two rows of gunloops for early cannon still visible. A smaller east wing, of the mid 16th century, contains the two painted rooms. The house is protected as a Category A listed building.
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Elizabeth Stewart, Countess of Arran was a Scottish noblewoman and political intriguer. Several accounts of her actions and ambition were written by her political enemies.
Robert Abercromby or Abircrumby was a Scottish leatherworker serving the Scottish monarchy in the 16th century.
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The wardrobe of Mary, Queen of Scots, was described in several contemporary documents, and many records of her costume have been published.
Peter Jonson or Johnson and Garret Jonson were London-based shoemakers who worked for Elizabeth I and James VI and I. The records of shoes they made for monarchs and courtiers gives an idea of changing fashions.
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