Kkachi durumagi | |
Korean name | |
---|---|
Hangul | 까치두루마기/ 오방장두루마기 |
Hanja | |
Revised Romanization | kkachi durumagi·obangjang durumagi |
McCune–Reischauer | kkach'i turumagi·obangjang turumagi |
Kkachi durumagi is a children's colorful overcoat in hanbok,traditional Korean clothing,which was worn on Seollal,New Year's Day in the Lunar calendar. [1] It was worn mostly by young boys [2] and literally means "a magpie's overcoat". The garment is also called obangjang durumagi which denotes "an overcoat of five directions". [3] It was worn over jeogori (a jacket) and jokki (a vest) while the wearer could put jeonbok (a long vest) over it. Kkachi durumagi was also worn along with headgear such as bokgeon (a peaked cloth hat [4] [5] ), hogeon (peaked cloth hat with a tiger pattern) for young boys or gulle (decorative headgear) for young girls. [6] [7]
The name is composed of the two words in Korean;kkachi referring to Korean magpie [3] and durumagi ,a type of overcoat. [6] In Korean mythology,magpies are regarded as auspicious messenger delivering good news but also a provider of prosperity and development. [8] [9] The date before Seollal has been referred to as "Kkachi Seollal" (kkachi's New Year's Day). The overcoat was named after the bird to reflect the folk belief because children longed for the cheerful holiday's coming. [3]
Kkachi durumagi is also called obangjang durumagi because it is composed of five colors,representing five different directions (obang) – east (blue),west (white),south (red),north (black),center (yellow). [10] The concept is based on Oriental philosophy. [3]
Seop (섶),the overlapped column of the garment in the center is made of a yellow fabric while gil (길),the large section of the garment in both front and back side is made of a fabric in yellowish green. For boys,blue color is used for the portions called git (깃,a band of fabric that trims the collar), [11] goreum (고름,strings at chest),doltti (돌띠,embroidered belt) [12] respectively and purple is used for mu (무,gusset). On the other hand,kkachi durumagi for girls has red or purple colored git,goreum and doltti and dark blue mu. The sleeves are made of two sheets of fabrics. The outer surface is made of a yellowish green fabric or saekdong (colorful stripes) fabric whereas the inner is rose pink in color. [3]
In old days,kkachi durumagi were worn as seolbim (설빔),new clothing and shoes prepared for Seollal,while at present,it is used as a dorot,a ceremonial garment for doljanchi ,celebration for a baby's first birthday. [3]
The hanbok is a traditional clothing of the Korean people. The term hanbok is primarily used by South Koreans;North Koreans refer to the clothes as chosŏn-ot (조선옷). The clothes are also worn in the Korean diaspora,especially by Koreans in China.
An ayam (아얌) is a Korean traditional winter cap mostly worn by women in the Joseon period for protection against the cold. It is also called aegeom which literally means "covering a forehead" in Korean. There is a historical record which mentions that officials in a low class called iseo wore ayam in the early Joseon period,so it was a unisex cap. However,it is not clear whether the shape at that time was identical to that of the later period. During the late Joseon period,an ayam was usually worn by female commoners. Especially in the western part of Korea,kisaeng commonly wore an ayam,and they were also worn as a simple formal headgear.
A jokduri is a type of traditional Korean coronet worn by women for special occasions such as weddings. Also known as a jokdu or jokgwan,it consists of an outer crown covered with black silk,and an inner which is filled with cotton and hard paper. Its top is decorated with cloisonnéornaments. The upper part is vaguely hexagonal and the bottom is cylindrical. The form of the jokduri gets narrower towards its base.
Hwagwan is a type of Korean coronet worn by women,traditionally for ceremonial occasions such as weddings. It is similar to the jokduri in shape and function,but the hwagan is more elaborate.
A nambawi is a type of traditional Korean winter hat worn by both men and women during the Joseon period for protection against the cold. The other names for it are pungdengi and nani. The nambawi is also called ieom which was worn in the early Joseon period,although it was derived from the cap. It was originally worn by the upper class as a daily hat,but spread to commoners and women in the later period. It was usually worn by middle-aged women and old people as well as by government officers who put it under the samo.
A hogeon is a type of gwanmo (관모),Korean traditional headgear for young boys aged one year to five years old. It was worn along with durumagi (overcoat) or jeonbok. Hogeon was worn on holidays such as Seollal,Chuseok,or celebrations for their birthdays like doljanchi. The shape and material are almost similar to bokgeon except a tiger pattern embroidered on hogeon. The outer is made of a black silk while the inner is dark blue silk. The tiger pattern was embroidered on the surface as reflecting parents' wish for their children to grow brave. The shapes of a tiger's eyebrow,eyes,whiskers,teeth and ears are decorated on the forehead of the hogeon. The ears was made with black and red fabrics. Strings attached to the end of the forehead part is able to tie the headgear to its back. Along with the tiger pattern,geumbak of some of Hanja that had good and auspicious meaning are adorned with the hogeon to bless the wearer. It was worn by young boys until they reached to the age of five or six years old.
The sagyusam is a type of po (포),or outer robe in hanbok,Korean traditional clothing,which was worn by young boys until they had a coming-of-age ceremony called gwallye (관례). The name was derived from the shape;the lower end of the garment is divided into four parts.
The saekdongot is a type of hanbok,Korean traditional clothing,with colorful stripes by patchworking. It began to be used for hanbok since the Goryeo period. The name literally means "many colored (saekdong) clothes (ot)" in Korean. Saekdong reminds one of the rainbow,which in turn evokes thoughts of children's pure dreams. It was usually worn by children from the age of one to seven year old. Such appliances of saekdong has been used throughout hanbok such as jeogori,magoja,durumagi and among other garments.
Jeogori is a basic upper garment of the hanbok,a traditional Korean garment,which has been worn by both men and women. Men usually wear the jeogori with a baji or pants while women wear the jeogori with chima,or skirts. It covers the arms and upper part of the wearer's body.
Po is a general term that describes an outer robe or overcoat in Korean traditional clothing.
Dopo is a variety of po,or overcoat in hanbok (한복),which was first worn in the middle of the Joseon since the 16th century. The dopo was mostly worn by male Confucian scholars called seonbi (선비) during the Joseon period. It was also worn by Kings and princes and government officers. The dopo held a strong Confucianism value. It was worn as an everyday outer garment by Neo-Confucian scholars,who wore it as an official form of clothing or as a ritual clothing. It was also an ordinary robe worn by the court officials. Since the 1894 reform,all varieties of po with wide sleeves,including the dopo,were prohibited to be worn by King Gojong and instead people had to wear the durumagi (두루마기).
Durumagi is a variety of po,or overcoat,in hanbok,the traditional Korean attire. It is a form of outerwear which is usually worn as the topmost layer of clothing,over a jeogori (jacket) and baji (pants). It also goes by the names jumagui,juchaui,or juui,
Dangui,also called dang-jeogori,dang-jeoksam,dang-hansam,danggoui,and samja,is a type of jeogori for women in hanbok,the Korean traditional clothing,which was worn for ceremonial occasions in the palace during the Joseon dynasty. It was typically a garment item reserved for the upper class and commoners of this period would rarely see anyone in this garment. It was worn as a simple official outfit or for small national ceremonies while court ladies wore it as a daily garment.
The magoja is a type of long jacket worn with hanbok,the traditional clothing of Korea,and is usually worn on top of the jeogori. It is also called magwae and while it was originally a male garment,it is now considered a unisex article of clothing. The magoja was originally a Manchu style of clothing,but was introduced after Heungseon Daewongun,father of King Gojong,returned from political exile in Manchuria in 1887. The magoja is derived from the magwae that he wore at that time to protect against the cold weather of the region. Due to its warmth and the fact that it's easy to wear,the magoja's popularity spread throughout Korea. It is also called "deot jeogori".
Geodeulji is a small piece of white cloth to attach to the edge of sleeves of hanbok,traditional Korean attire. Its inner is back up by changhoji (창호지),a type of Korean paper and its width is about 6 ~ 8 cm. Geodeulji is attached to dangui or jangot to cover hands because showing hands in front of seniors was considered not a courtesy during the Korean Joseon Dynasty.
Chima is a generic term for the skirt worn together with jeogori,or a short jacket in hanbok,Korean traditional clothing. It is also referred to as sang or gun in hanja in the Korean language.
A jang-ot,also known as janot,jang-eui,jang-ui (장의/長衣),is a type of po worn by women of the Joseon Dynasty period as a headdress or veil to cover their faces by the mid-18th century. They were mostly worn by commoners but not exclusively. Jang-ot was originally a form of men's po called jang-ui,which was worn in 15th century. The jang-ui started to be worn by women as an overcoat in early Joseon,even becoming a popular fashion item for women of high status. It was previously one of the most representative women's overcoats;it was worn as a women's overcoat when they would leave their house until the 17th century.
Kazakh clothing,worn by the Kazakh people,is often made of materials suited to the region's extreme climate and the people's nomadic lifestyle. It is commonly decorated with elaborate ornaments made from bird beaks,animal horns,hooves and feet. Although contemporary Kazakhs usually wear Western dress,the Turkic people wear more traditional clothing for holidays and special occasions.
Haji Oh is a third-generation Zainichi Korean contemporary artist. Her Japanese name is Okamura Natsue.