L'Officiel

Last updated
L'Officiel
Lofficiel logo.svg
L'Officiel Paris, June July 2013.jpg
June/July 2013 cover
Categories Fashion
FrequencyMonthly
Publisher
Total circulation
(2017)		645,135 [2]
FounderAmédée-Martin Brunhes
Founded20 July 1921 (1921-07-20)
CountryFrance
Based in Paris
Language French
Website lofficiel.com
ISSN 0030-0403

L'Officiel, [lower-alpha 1] full name L'Officiel de la couture et de la mode de Paris (stylised in all caps), is a French monthly fashion magazine. It has been published in Paris since 1921 and targets upper-income, educated women aged from 25 to 49. [3] A men's edition called L'Officiel Hommes is also published, [4] as are many foreign editions of the magazine. [3] In 2022, it was acquired by AMTD, a Hong Kong-based company. [1]

Contents

History

L'Officiel was first published in 1921. [4] [5] It was the official publication of the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, a trade body representing all Paris couturiers, [6] : 83  and took over the role of Les Elégances Parisiennes, a joint publication of a group of about twenty-five couturiers which became defunct in 1922. [7] : 56  When launched in 1921, L'Officiel was originally a professional trade magazine, directed principally at international buyers of high fashion, both corporate and individual, and at those working in the fashion industry. [6] : 83 

Georges Jalou joined the magazine as artistic director in 1932. [4] Within a short time, the magazine had helped to start the careers of designers such as Pierre Balmain, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Christian Dior, and Yves St. Laurent, and came to be known as "the Bible of fashion and of high society". [4] [8] Jalou became general director of the publication, and later purchased the magazine. [4]

L'Officiel Hommes was first launched in 1976 as a male alternative to L'Officiel, but in 1998 due to publishing rights, it was rebranded to L'Optimum. However, in 2005, the publishing rights to the name were acquired again and L'Officiel Hommes was relaunched (L'Optimum still operated as a separate publication). [9]

Georges Jalou transferred the magazine to his three children in 1986: Laurent Jalou became the president of Éditions Jalou, Marie-José Susskind-Jalou directed its editorial content, and Maxime Jalou was responsible for publication. [4] After the death of Laurent Jalou in 2003, his daughter Marie-José Susskind-Jalou became president of the company, and restructured the content of the magazine to target a younger market than in its early years. [4]

For the October issue in 2013 Karl Lagerfeld shot the cover photo and editorial, which featured the cast of Opium a film about the life of Jean Patou. [10]

The cryptocurrency Taste Token was launched in 2018 the venture was headed by Benjamin Eymère L'Officiel CEO and was developed to compensate readers for their time on the website and for brands to figure out what readers like. [11]

In January 2021, a group of freelancers working for the magazine took legal action in France, claiming that they had not been paid. [12] [13] [14]

For its 100th anniversary in 2021, L'Officiel opened its archive for academic study to students at the Parsons Paris. [15] They also launched L'Officiel House of Dreams a website set up as a virtual museum documenting the magazines history. [16]

In April 2022, AMTD International (now AMTD IDEA Group) a Hong Kong based subsidiary of the AMTD Group acquired L'Officiel Inc. SAS and Éditions Jalou. With the purchase, AMTD announced that it intended to expand and establish L'Officiel's presence in Hong Kong, Macau, Hungary, the Czech Republic, Switzerland and the Netherlands. [1] [17] Later in the year it was also announced that they intended to launch editions in Canada, Japan, Australia and the United Kingdom within two years. [18]

At the World Economic Forum in January 2023, the L'Officiel Coffee pop up was launched in Davos, and AMTD announced plans to expand the store to different cities worldwide throughout 2023. [19]

L'Officiel Singapore and L'Officiel Malaysia were relaunched in March 2023, now directly owned and managed and no longer under a franchising ownership model. [20] In August 2023, L'Officiel Philippines was brought under direct ownership also. [21]

Editions

The magazine has over 30 different international editions. [22] Other titles published by the group include L'Officiel Hommes and L'Officiel Art (launched in 2012). Other titles of the magazine that are no longer published include L'Officiel 1000 Modèles (from 1996–2019), [23] L'Officiel Chirugie Esthétique (launched in 1996), [24] L'Officiel Voyage (2005–2019), L'Officiel Business (2007), [25] L'Officiel New Talents (2012), [26] L'Officiel Shopping/L'Officiel Paris Guide (launched in 2012), [27] L'Officiel 1000 Modèles Design, L'Officiel 1000 Modèles Joaillerie, L'Officiel Beauté and L'Officiel Intérieur. [28] [29] The 1000 Modèles issues were usually published seasonally.

The magazines first supplement was launched in the 1920s and known as L'Industrie Française du Vêtement Féminine. [30] Other once published supplements include L'Officiel Enfants and L'Officiel Style et Tendances. [31]

L'Officiel editions in Brazil, Italy and Arabia all had original print runs in the 1970s, these editions were closed down but later relaunched. [30]

时装 L'Officiel China

In 1980 时装 (Fashion) was founded and by the mid-1980s had almost reached a circulation of 300,000. [32] From late 2003 the magazine was rebranded to 时装 L'Officiel after an agreement was made with Éditions Jalou with this the magazine became distributed in Mainland China, Hong Kong and Macau. [33] [34] As of 2021 L'Officiel China had a circulation of 839,000. [35]

L'Officiel Italia

L'Officiel Italia originally had a short run in the 1970s and 1990s. [36] In 2009 L'Officiel Hommes launched an Italian edition and in September 2012 L'Officiel Italia was relaunched with Carlo Mazzoni as Editor-in-Chief. [37] [38]

L'Officiel USA

L'Officiel USA was originally launched in 1976 as one of the first international editions of the magazine, but was later shuttered in 1980. [39] In 2017 L'Officiel USA launched online headed by Joseph Akel with funding from Global Emerging Markets, with the first print edition in February 2018. [12] The Magazine is based in New York City. [40] In December 2021, the City of New York brought an action against L'Officiel USA Inc. under the Freelance Isn't Free Act, claiming that the magazine had failed to pay freelance contributors. [41] [42] [43] A settlement was reached in July 2023 with L'Officiel agreeing to pay 41 freelancers $275,000 USD. [44]

Editors

Operating
Country/AreaCirculation DatesEditor-in-ChiefStart yearEnd yearRef.
France (L'Officiel Paris)1921–presentDominique Gaffory1921? [45] [46] [47] [48] [49] [50] [51] [52] [53] [54]
Yves-Georges Prade1924?
Andrée Castanié
Georges Jalou19471988
Marie-José Susskind-Jalou19882003
Cécile Sepulchre20022007
Caroline Bongrand20072010
Daphné Hézard20102014
Frédérique Dedet20142016
Marie-José Susskind-Jalou20162016
Adrienne Ribes20162021
United States (L'Officiel USA)1976–1980Dorothy Coleman Seeman1976? [30] [55] [56] [57] [58] [39] [59]
Himilce Novas?1980
2018–presentJoseph Akel20182019
Peter Davis20192020
Caroline Grosso2022present
Italy (L'Officiel Italia)1991–1992Giancarlo Albano19911992 [37] [60] [61] [62]
2012–present Carlo Mazzoni 20122014
Gianluca Cantaro20142019
Giampietro Baudo2019present
Turkey (L'Officiel Türkiye)2000–2005??? [63] [64] [65]
2012–presentGülen Yelmen20132015
Debora Zakuto20162020
Inan Kirdemir2020present
South Korea (L'Officiel Korea)2001–2002??? [66] [67] [68]
2019–presentWoo Lee Kyung (우이경)2019present
Ukraine (L'Officiel UA)2001–presentIryna Danylevska (Ірина Данилевська)20012004 [69] [70]
Natalia Radovynska20042008
Ana Varava (Ане Вараве)20082017
Ulyana Boyko (Ульяна Бойко)2017present
China (时装 L'Officiel China)2003–presentZhou Changqing2003? [30] [71] [34] [72]
Cheng Min??
Zhang Jing (张晶)2017present
Brazil (L'Officiel Brasil)2006–2012Silvana Holzmeister20062009 [73] [74]
2012–presentErika Palomino20122015
Maria Rita Alonso20152018
Karina Hollo2018present
Singapore (L'Officiel Singapore)2007–presentJumius Wong20132015 [72] [75]
Grace Tay20162017
Ian lee2017present
Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania (L'Officiel Baltic)2008–presentLīga Zemture2018present [76]
Latvia (L'Officiel Latvija)2008–presentJelena Vlasova?? [72] [74]
Līga Zemture2018present
Belgium (L'Officiel Belgium)2008–2010Nicolette Goldsmann20082010 [77] [78] [79]
2019–presentLaurence Descamps20192020
Céline Pécheux2020present
Morocco (L'Officiel Maroc)2009–presentSofia Benbrahim20092015 [80]
Hugues Roy2015present
Thailand (L'Officiel Thailand)2012–presentKusuma Chayiaporn2012present [81] [72]
Philippines (L'Officiel Philippines)2015–2017Pam Quiñones20152017 [82] [83]
2021–presentDanyl Geneciran2021present
Vietnam (L'Officiel Vietnam)2015–presentNguyễn Hữu Hôn2020present [84]
Malaysia (L'Officiel Malaysia)2015–presentMonica Mong20152021 [85] [86] [87]
Ian Loh20212022
John Ng2022present
Saint Barth (L'Officiel St. Barth)2015–presentPhilippe Combres2015present [88] [89]
Argentina (L'Officiel Argentina)2018–presentAna Torrejón2018present [30]
Austria (L'Officiel Austria)2019–presentChristoph Steiner20192022 [90] [91] [92]
Svitlana Lavrynovych20222022
Anna Znamensky2022present
Cyprus (L'Officiel Cyprus)2020–presentChristoph Steiner20202021 [93] [94] [95] [96] [97]
Svitlana Lavrynovych20212022
Anna Znamesky20222023
Andrea Ioannou20232023
Lisa Johnson2023present
Monaco (L'Officiel Monaco)2020–presentChristoph Steiner20202021 [98] [99] [91] [100] [101]
Michael Schwab20212021
Svitlana Lavrynovych20222022
Anna Znamesky20222022
Daria Romanenko2023present
Chile (L'Officiel Chile)2021–presentValentina Espinoza20212022
Paula Olmedo2022present
French Riviera (L'Officiel Riviera)2021–presentPhilippe Combres2021present [102]
Liechtenstein (L'Officiel Liechtenstein)2021–presentGrace Maier2021present [103]
Ibiza (L'Officiel Ibiza)2022–presentMaya Boyd2022present [104] [105]
Defunct
Country/AreaCirculation DatesEditor-in-ChiefStart yearEnd yearRef.
Spain (L'Officiel España)1992–1992?19921992 [106] [107] [108] [109] [110]
2015–2018Nerea Dolara20152016
Lidia Maseres20162017
Carmen Melgar20172018
Russia (L'Officiel Россия)1997-2011Evelina Khromtchenko (Эвелина Хромченко)19972010 [111] [112] [113] [114]
Maria Nevskaya (Мария Невская)20102010
Evelina Khromtchenko (Эвелина Хромченко)20102011
2014-2018 Ksenia Sobchak (Ксения Собчак)20142018
2019–2022Edward Dorozhkin2019?
Greece (L'Officiel Hellas)2000–2003ANITA ΓPHΓOPIAΔOY20002003 [115] [116] [72] [117]
2006–2012Evi Karatza20062009
2014–2015Maria Chorianopoulou20142015
India (L'Officiel India)2002–2013Superna Motwane?2013 [118] [119] [72]
2013-2022Juhi Dua Jacob20132015
Asmita Aggarwal20152016
Neena Haridas 20162018
Nitin Agarwal20202022
Middle East (L'Officiel Arabia)2005–2013??? [72] [120] [121]
2013–2018Souha Abbas201?201?
2019–2022Boba Stanic20192022
Japan (L'Officiel Japan)2005–2008?200?200? [122] [123] [124]
2015–2016Naoko Kikuchi20152016
The Netherlands (L'Officiel NL)2007–2019Nicolette Goldsmann20082019 [72]
Serbia (L'Officiel Srbija)2008–2010Peter Janosevic20082009 [125]
Lebanon (L'Officiel Levant)2009–2019Fifi Abou Dib?2019 [126]
Central Asia (L'Officiel Central Asia)2010–2014 Gulnara Karimova 20102014 [127] [128]
Lithuania (L'Officiel Lithuania)2010–2023Jurgita Garbaraviciene20102018 [72] [129] [130] [131] [132]
Agnė Jagelavičiūtė20182021
Juoz Statkevičius20212022
Indonesia (L'Officiel Indonesia)2013–2019Winda Malika Siregar20132014 [133] [72] [134]
Hessy Aurelia Rumadja20142017
Rizky Citra Rory [note 1] 20182019
Azerbaijan (L'Officiel Azerbaijan)2013–2018?201?201? [133]
Switzerland (L'Officiel Suisse/Schweiz)2014–2019Sandra Bauknecht20142016 [115] [135]
Livia Zafiriou20162019
Odile Didi Habel20192019
Mexico (L'Officiel México)2014–2022Pamela Ocampo20142018 [115]
Brenda Díaz de la Vega20192019
Javier Quesada20192022
Australia (L'Officiel Australia)2014–2016 [note 2] Dimitri Vorontsov20152015 [136] [137]
Damien Woolnough20152015
Dimitri Vorontsov20152016
Kazakhstan (L’Officiel Kazakhstan)2015–2019?201?201? [138]
Germany (L'Officiel Deutsch)2016–2019 Lisa Feldmann  [ de ]2015201? [139]
Poland (L'Officiel Polska)2016–2021Ewelina Kustra20162021 [140]

Other International editions

Notes


  1. ↑ Originally credited as Kiky Rory
  2. ↑ Ties were cut in 2016 (became online only). Rebranded to L'Officiel Fashion Book Australia in 2021. Launches L'Officiel Fashion Book Monte Carlo in 2021. Both editions are not licensed and in legal dispute with L'Officiel.
  1. ↑ French pronunciation: [lɔfisjɛl]

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References

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  2. ↑ "L'Officiel total circulation". ACPM . 2018-05-22.
  3. 1 2 "Lifestyle Mag L'Officiel to be Published in Latvia from Sept". Baltic News Service, March 10, 2008. (Via LexisNexis.)
  4. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Corine Moriou (September 1, 2006). "Le groupe édite L'Officiel, Jalouse, L'Optimum, etc.; Jalou, les magazines qui font des jaloux" (in French). L'Entreprise , page 54.
  5. ↑ Agnes Rocamora (2009). Fashioning the City: Paris, Fashion and the Media. London: I.B. Tauris. ISBN   9780857731135, page 67.
  6. 1 2 Véronique Pouillard (2014). Fashion for All? The Transatlantic Fashion Business and the Development of a Popular Press Culture During the Interwar Period. In: Sarah Newman, Matt Houlbrook (editors) (2014). The Press and Popular Culture in Interwar Europe. Abingdon, Oxfordshire; New York: Routledge. ISBN   9780415747639.
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  8. ↑ "la bible de la mode et des élégantes"
  9. ↑ Tonchi, Stefano (2021). L'Officiel 100: One Hundred People and Ideas from a Century in Fashion. Marsilio. p. 250. ISBN   978-8829712809.
  10. ↑ Guilbault, Laure (2013-09-18). "L'Officiel Taps Karl Lagerfeld for October Issue". WWD. Retrieved 2023-07-19.
  11. ↑ Hays, Kali (2018-11-08). "L'Officiel Is Bringing Cryptocurrency to Fashion Media". WWD. Retrieved 2023-07-19.
  12. 1 2 Hays, Kali (14 January 2021). "L'Officiel Freelancers Take Legal Action in France for Unpaid Wages". Women's Wear Daily. Archived from the original on 2021-01-15. Archived 15 January 2021.
  13. ↑ Hays, Kali (12 May 2020). "L'Officiel Reducing Print as Freelancers Demand Long Overdue Payments". Women's Wear Daily. Retrieved 8 December 2021.
  14. ↑ Hays, Kali (15 June 2020). "L'Officiel Freelancers Look to Legal Action for Long Overdue Payments". Women's Wear Daily . Retrieved 8 December 2021.
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  19. ↑ "AMTD IDEA's L'Officiel Presents L'Officiel COFFEE and a global rollout plan". ir.amtdinc.com. Retrieved 2023-05-15.
  20. ↑ "AMTD IDEA Group's L'OFFICIEL Inc. SAS completed the recruitment of a full team of experienced professionals and local experts in Singapore and Malaysia, ready for a new and powerful launch in March 2023 under direct owner's model". www.businesswire.com. 2023-02-14. Retrieved 2023-05-15.
  21. ↑ "L'Officiel Global successfully acquired the Philippines business to add one more country to direct owner's model on a worldwide basis". www.businesswire.com. 2023-08-17. Retrieved 2023-08-24.
  22. ↑ USA, L’Officiel. "Jalou Media Group And GEM Group Announce The Launch Of L'Officiel USA Inc". www.prnewswire.com (Press release). Retrieved 2023-04-24.
  23. ↑ "Jalou Media Group - 1000 Models". Archived from the original on 22 July 2018.
  24. ↑ "Jalou Media Group - L'Officiel Plastic Surgery". Archived from the original on 22 July 2018.
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  26. ↑ FR, FashionNetwork com. "Les Editions Jalou lancent L'Officiel New Talents avec des blogueuses". FashionNetwork.com (in French). Retrieved 2023-11-11.
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  29. ↑ "Editions Jalou Archive". Archived from the original on 9 September 2018.
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  31. ↑ "L'Officiel Supplements". Archived from the original on 29 May 2018.
  32. ↑ "BoF中国时尚商业简史 | 中国现代时装杂志的诞生". 知乎专栏 (in Chinese). Retrieved 2023-08-13.
  33. ↑ "《时装L'OFFICIEL》海上嘉年华_新浪网". eladies.sina.com.cn (in Chinese). Retrieved 2023-08-13.
  34. 1 2 "Editions Jalou - L'Officiel China". Archived from the original on 9 September 2012.
  35. ↑ L’Officiel 100: One Hundred People and Ideas from a Century in Fashion. Marsilio. 2021. p. 296. ISBN   978-8829712809.
  36. ↑ Tonchi, Stefano (2021). L'Officiel 100: One Hundred People and Ideas from a Century in Fashion. Marsilio. p. 292. ISBN   978-8829712809.
  37. 1 2 "My Style: Carlo Mazzoni | Fashion We Like". www.fashionwelike.com. Retrieved 2023-04-24.
  38. ↑ Repaci, Fabiana (2012-05-01). "Italian Edition of L'Officiel to Debut in September". WWD. Retrieved 2023-07-19.
  39. 1 2 "L'Officiel Editor Takes New Post". The New York Times. 1980-10-16. ISSN   0362-4331 . Retrieved 2023-05-17.
  40. ↑ "L'Officiel Launches US Edition". The Business of Fashion. 2017-10-10. Retrieved 2023-07-19.
  41. ↑ Testa, Jessica (2 December 2021). "New York City Sues L'Officiel Magazine for Not Paying Freelancers". The New York Times . Archived from the original on 2021-12-02. Archived 2 December 2021.
  42. ↑ Scheiber, Noam (28 October 2016). "As Freelancers' Ranks Grow, New York Moves to See They Get What They're Due". The New York Times . Retrieved 8 December 2021.
  43. ↑ "New York City Sues French Fashion Media Company L'Officiel USA for Failing to pay NYC Freelancers". The official website of the City of New York. 1 December 2021. Retrieved 8 December 2021.
  44. ↑ Guthrie, Marisa (2023-07-14). "The City of New York Reaches Settlement With L'Officiel USA Over Failure to Pay Freelancers". WWD. Retrieved 2023-07-19.
  45. ↑ Tonchi, Stefano (2021). L'Officiel 100: One Hundred People and Ideas from a Century in Fashion. Marsilio. p. 149. ISBN   978-8829712809. L'Officiel's original Editor-in-Chief Dominique Gaffory firmly believed that it was only in France that the art of couture could flourish.
  46. ↑ "Georges Prade (1904-1992)". data.bnf.fr (in French). Retrieved 2023-12-11.
  47. ↑ Tonchi, Stefano (2021). L'Officiel 100: One Hundred People and Ideas from a Century in Fashion. Marsilio. p. 136. ISBN   978-8829712809. Andreé Castanié served as editor-in-chief of L'Officiel throughout the entirety of the war. [World War Two]
  48. ↑ Tonchi, Stefano (2021). L'Officiel 100: One Hundred People and Ideas from a Century in Fashion. Marsilio. p. 24. ISBN   978-8829712809. He [Georges Jalou] started as head graphic designer and in 1947 became chief editor.
  49. ↑ Guilbault, Laure (2016-04-01). "L'Officiel Names New Editor in Chief". WWD. Retrieved 2023-05-17.
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