Narrow cloth

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Weaving narrow cloth on a back-strap loom. A lone weaver without a flying shuttle must be able to span the cloth they are weaving with their arms. BackstrapUruapan (darken background).jpg
Weaving narrow cloth on a back-strap loom. A lone weaver without a flying shuttle must be able to span the cloth they are weaving with their arms.

"Narrow cloth" (streit, strait, [1] narrow ware articles, narrow ware woven [2] ) is cloth of a comparatively narrow width, generally less than a human armspan; precise definitions vary.

Contents

Historically, human factors and ergonomics limited the width that could practically be woven by a single weaver on a handloom. The weaver had to be able to reach both edges of the cloth, so they could throw the shuttle through the shed. A weaver thus could not weave a bolt wider than their armspan. [3] So cloth was typically made in narrow widths on narrow-width handlooms. [4] [5]

Wider widths once had to be woven with a person on each side of the loom, usually the master weaver and an apprentice, throwing the shuttle back and forth between them. [6] :29 [3] In 1733, the flying shuttle was invented. Flying shuttles made it possible for a single hand weaver to weave widths greater than their armspan, halving the labour required to make broadcloth. [7] Fabric widths became limited by the impracticality of transporting very wide bolts and looms.

Various maximum measures of breadth were used to legally define narrow cloth, and "broadcloth" was often regulated to be twice the width of narrow cloth (see historic definitions, below). The word "broadcloth" was originally used just as an antonym to "narrow cloth", but later came to mean a particular type of cloth (see broadcloth). [1] The 1909 Webster's dictionary (as reprinted in 1913) defines broadcloth as "A fine smooth-faced woolen cloth for men's garments, usually of double width". [8] thus giving both the old breadth-based distinction and the newer definition based on the type of cloth. Broadwoven and narrow woven are unambiguous terms, used by the US government. [9]

Significance

The narrow cloth had several variations and was famous as like broadcloths;[ clarification needed ] due to the narrower width, they were less prone to shrinkage[ clarification needed ] and thus required less milling. [10] :8

Historic trade definitions

In England, efforts were made to standardize the width of cloth, to promote mercery. The first on record is the Assize of Cloth (also called the Assize of Measures), which was first introduced in the reign of Richard I (1189–1199). It defined two English ells (then 74 inches, 190 cm [11] [ better source needed ]) as the only legal breadth for woolen cloth. Article 35 of Magna Carta reaffirmed this standard; [1] it said "There shall be standard measures of wine, ale, and corn (the London quarter), throughout the kingdom. There shall also be a standard width of dyed [generally wollen] cloth, russet, and haberject, namely two ells within the selvedges. Weights are to be standardised similarly." [12] In the reign of Edward I (1272 - 1307), an official called the king's alnager was appointed to enforce the law, and all towns were required to have an accurate ellwand (measuring stick one ell in length). [13] [1] These rules were repealed in 1353, because imports and varying types of wool made them impractical. [1] In 1665, in the reign of Charles II, the office of alnager was revived. Two standard widths were defined: widths of 2 yards (180 cm) were called broadcloth, and widths of 1 yard (91 cm), narrow cloth. The office of the alnager was abolished again in 1699. [1] See Weights and Measures Acts (UK)#England for details.

In the late-sixteen- and seventeen-hundreds, English merchants exported broadcloth to both the Levant and the Indies. This cloth was defined as having a breadth greater than a 1.25 yards (114 cm). Anything narrower was narrow cloth. [14]

James Bischoff noted in his 1842 publication, A Comprehensive History of the Woollen, and WorstedManufactures, that British woolens were imported into Ireland with two different descriptions, broadcloth and narrow cloth. These were priced (per yard length) at six shillings fourpence and three shillings eightpence, respectively. He did not mention whether the two were distinguished by width, [15] :326 but the doubling of price suggests that broadcloth was similar to narrow cloth except for being twice the width.

In the United States in the early 19-hundreds, fabrics with a width of less than 29 inches (74 cm) were classed as narrow cloth; wider fabrics were classed as broadcloth. [16] :27 [5] The American 1909 Webster's dictionary (as reprinted in 1913) defines broadcloth as 1.5 yards (140 cm), and narrow cloth as 0.75 yards (69 cm), but also gives the newer definition based on the type of cloth.

In the 1990s, the US government defined "broadwoven fabrics" and "narrow woven fabrics", with a breadth cutoff of 30 centimeters (about 12 inches) (per the Harmonized Tariff Schedule of the United States). By this definition, the US government estimates that 70-75% of all cloth production globally, by weight, is broadwoven. [9]

Types and uses

Narrow-loom cloth is still made by in artisanal weaving. Traditional-format textiles in narrow widths are also machine-made. These are used from making traditional garments and other traditional textile items.

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Loom</span> Device for weaving textiles

A loom is a device used to weave cloth and tapestry. The basic purpose of any loom is to hold the warp threads under tension to facilitate the interweaving of the weft threads. The precise shape of the loom and its mechanics may vary, but the basic function is the same.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Weaving</span> Technology for the production of textiles

Weaving is a method of textile production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth. Other methods are knitting, crocheting, felting, and braiding or plaiting. The longitudinal threads are called the warp and the lateral threads are the weft, woof, or filling. The method in which these threads are interwoven affects the characteristics of the cloth. Cloth is usually woven on a loom, a device that holds the warp threads in place while filling threads are woven through them. A fabric band that meets this definition of cloth can also be made using other methods, including tablet weaving, back strap loom, or other techniques that can be done without looms.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Worsted</span> Fabrics manufactured from worsted yarns

Worsted is a high-quality type of wool yarn, the fabric made from this yarn, and a yarn weight category. The name derives from Worstead, a village in the English county of Norfolk. That village, together with North Walsham and Aylsham, formed a manufacturing centre for yarn and cloth in the 12th century, when pasture enclosure and liming rendered the East Anglian soil too rich for the older agrarian sheep breeds. In the same period, many weavers from the County of Flanders moved to Norfolk. "Worsted" yarns/fabrics are distinct from woollens : the former is considered stronger, finer, smoother, and harder than the latter.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ribbon</span> Long, narrow woven textile, used for trimming, belts, filets, and straps of various kinds

A ribbon or riband is a thin band of material, typically cloth but also plastic or sometimes metal, used primarily as decorative binding and tying. Cloth ribbons are made of natural materials such as silk, cotton, and jute and of synthetic materials, such as polyester, nylon, and polypropylene. Ribbon is used for useful, ornamental, and symbolic purposes. Cultures around the world use ribbon in their hair, around the body, and as ornament on non-human animals, buildings, and packaging. Some popular fabrics used to make ribbons are satin, organza, sheer, silk, velvet, and grosgrain.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tablet weaving</span> Weaving technique

Tablet weaving is a weaving technique where tablets or cards are used to create the shed through which the weft is passed. As the materials and tools are relatively cheap and easy to obtain, tablet weaving is popular with hobbyist weavers. Most tablet weavers produce narrow work such as belts, straps, or garment trims.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Flying shuttle</span> Weaving tool

The flying shuttle is a type of weaving shuttle. It was a pivotal advancement in the mechanisation of weaving during the initial stages of the Industrial Revolution, and facilitated the weaving of considerably broader fabrics, enabling the production of wider textiles. Moreover, its mechanical implementation paved the way for the introduction of automatic machine looms.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Shawl</span> Simple item of clothing, loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms

A shawl is a simple item of clothing, loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. It is usually a rectangular piece of cloth, but can also be square or triangular in shape. Other shapes include oblong shawls. It is associated with the inhabitants of the northern Indian subcontinent—particularly Kashmir and Punjab—and Central Asia, but can be found in many other parts of the world.

Alnage, or aulnage was the official supervision of the shape and quality of manufactured woolen cloth.

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Broadcloth</span> Dense, woven cloth, historically of wool

Broadcloth is a dense, plain woven cloth, historically made of wool. The defining characteristic of broadcloth is not its finished width but the fact that it was woven much wider and then heavily milled in order to shrink it to the required width. The effect of the milling process is to draw the yarns much closer together than could be achieved in the loom and allow the individual fibres of the wool to bind together in a felting process, which results in a dense, blind face cloth with a stiff drape which is highly weather-resistant, hard wearing and capable of taking a cut edge without the need for being hemmed.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Selvage</span> Narrow edge of a woven fabric parallel to its length

A selvage or selvedge is a "self-finished" edge of a piece of fabric which keeps it from unraveling and fraying. The term "self-finished" means that the edge does not require additional finishing work, such as hem or bias tape, to prevent fraying.

Maya textiles (k’apak) are the clothing and other textile arts of the Maya peoples, indigenous peoples of the Yucatán Peninsula in Mexico, Guatemala, Honduras, El Salvador and Belize. Women have traditionally created textiles in Maya society, and textiles were a significant form of ancient Maya art and religious beliefs. They were considered a prestige good that would distinguish the commoners from the elite. According to Brumfiel, some of the earliest weaving found in Mesoamerica can date back to around 1000-800 B.C.E.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Silk in the Indian subcontinent</span> Overview about silk in the India subcontinent

Silk In India, about 97% of the raw mulberry silk is produced in the Indian states of Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, Tamil Nadu and West Bengal. Mysore and North Bangalore, the upcoming site of a US$20 million "Silk City", contribute to a majority of silk production. Another emerging silk producer is Tamil Nadu in the place in where mulberry cultivation is concentrated in Salem, Erode and Dharmapuri districts. Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh and Gobichettipalayam, Tamil Nadu were the first locations to have automated silk reeling units.

The manufacture of textiles is one of the oldest of human technologies. To make textiles, the first requirement is a source of fiber from which a yarn can be made, primarily by spinning. The yarn is processed by knitting or weaving, which turns yarn into cloth. The machine used for weaving is the loom. For decoration, the process of colouring yarn or the finished material is dyeing. For more information of the various steps, see textile manufacturing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Units of textile measurement</span> Systems for measuring textiles

Textile fibers, threads, yarns and fabrics are measured in a multiplicity of units.

Textile manufacturing is one of the oldest human activities. The oldest known textiles date back to about 5000 B.C. In order to make textiles, the first requirement is a source of fibre from which a yarn can be made, primarily by spinning. The yarn is processed by knitting or weaving to create cloth. The machine used for weaving is the loom. Cloth is finished by what are described as wet process to become fabric. The fabric may be dyed, printed or decorated by embroidering with coloured yarns.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bolt (cloth)</span> Roll of fabric

A bolt is a piece of cloth woven on a loom or created by a knitting machine, as it is processed, stored and/or marketed. Consequently, its dimensions are highly variable – flexible and dependent upon the manufacturing, machinery, quantity, size, thickness and quality of the product. It is a unit used in manufacturing, transport and inventory. It is also used as a descriptor for wallpaper, which uses different fabrication machinery. Being encompassing, it is by its nature a generic and ambiguous term of convenience and context, used to describe fabric and wallpaper.

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Handloom saris are a traditional textile art of Bangladesh and India. The production of handloom saris is important for economic development in rural India.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Piece goods</span> Textile piece goods

Piece goods were the textile materials sold in cut pieces as per the buyer's specification. The piece goods were either cut from a fabric roll or produced with a certain length, also called yard goods. Various textiles such as cotton, wool, silk, etc., were traded in terms of piece goods. The prices were determined as per the fabric quality.

<i>Tanmono</i> Traditional bolt of narrow-loom Japanese cloth

A tanmono is a bolt of traditional Japanese narrow-loomed cloth. It is used to make traditional Japanese clothes, textile room dividers, sails, and other traditional cloth items.

References

  1. 1 2 3 4 5 6 Chisholm, Hugh, ed. (1911). "Alnage" (free fulltext), from the Encyclopædia Britannica . Vol. 01 (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press. p. 719; lines two and three from end. Owing to the introduction of the alternative standard, a distinction arose between “broadcloth” (cloth of two yards) and “streit” or “strait” (narrow cloth of one yard).
  2. Appeals, United States Court of Customs and Patent (1971). Cases Decided in United States Court of Customs and Patent Appeals: Customs Cases Adjudged in the Court of Customs and Patent Appeals. The Court. p. 121.
  3. 1 2 "About the size of tanmono (a roll of kimono cloth)". hirotatsumugi.jp. Hirota Tsumugi. Archived from the original on 4 July 2020. Retrieved 27 January 2020.
  4. Courts, Witney (England) Borough (1985). Oxfordshire Record Society. Produced for the Society by A. Sutton. pp. LXXCV, XCV. ISBN   978-0-902509-18-4.
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  10. Brooks, Richard (1743). Observations on Milling Broad and Narrow Cloth, &c: Shewing I. The Many Destructive Errors that Attend the Common Method of Milling, and Reading Or Tighting of Cloth, During Its Milling. And, II. The Many Advantages that Accrue, Instead Thereof, from the Use of a New Instrument, Called a Regulator. To which is Annexed, A Certificate Signed by Several of the Most Eminent Clothiers in the Superfine Trade. By Richard Brooks, Clothier, Inventor of the Said Regulator, and Patentee, at the Devizes, in the County of Wilts. author in the year.
  11. Chisholm, Hugh, ed. (1911). "Weights and Measures" (free fulltext), from the Encyclopædia Britannica . Vol. 01 (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press.
  12. Wikisource:Magna_Carta_(trans._Davis), 1963 translation by G. R. C. Davis
  13. AR Littlewood. "The measurements of cricket". ESPN cricinfo.
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  15. Bischoff, James (1842). A Comprehensive History of the Woollen and Worsted Manufactures, and the Natural and Commercial History of Sheep, from the Earliest Records to the Present Period. Smith, Elder. There are two descriptions at woollen goods exported to Ireland, one broad cloth, the other narrow cloth. The average price of narrow cloth I estimate at three shillings and four pence per yard ; the lowest general price being one shilling and eight pence per yard. The average price of broad cloth exported to Ireland I should estimate at six shillings and eight pence per yard.
  16. Baker, William Henry (1901). Clothes dictionary;. The Library of Congress. Chicago, Ill., U.S.A., Cahn, Wampold & co. p. 27. Narrow Cloth — Trade term for fabrics less than 29 inches wide ; wider cloths called broad
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