Proactiv

Last updated
Proactiv
ProactivLogo.png
Proactiv three-step kit, June 2013 (cropped).jpg
Product typeSkincare
Owner Guthy-Renker
Galderma [1]
CountryUnited States
IntroducedOctober 1995;28 years ago (1995-10)
MarketsAustralasia, Europe, North America, Scandinavia
Previous owners Katie Rodan
Kathy Fields
Ambassador(s)
Website proactiv.com

Proactiv is an American brand of skin-care products developed by two American dermatologists, Katie Rodan and Kathy A. Fields, and launched in 1995 by Guthy-Renker, a California-based direct marketing company, that was endorsed by famous celebrities [2] The range includes moisturizers, body washes and treatment products, but the brand is known for its three-step anti-acne Solutions 3-step routine consisting of a BPO cleanser, glycolic toner and treatment lotion. [3] [4] Proactiv+, a reformulation of the three-step kit, was introduced in 2013, and in 2017, ProactivMD launches powered by Adapalene. [5]

Contents

As a result of its celebrity endorsements and infomercials, Proactiv is one of the most popular skincare brands of all time, according to the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology. [6] Sales amounted to $800 million a year as of 2010, with a media budget of nearly $200 million and $12–15 million for celebrity fees. [7] The product is mostly sold at ULTA Beauty, Target, and online as single-unit items or as part of a continuity program. A month after ordering, customers are sent a three-month supply, which continues until the subscription is cancelled. [8]

History

Product development

Proactiv was created in the late 1980s by Katie Rodan and Kathy A. Fields, who met while at Stanford University School of Medicine. [9] [10]

Proactiv was offered to Neutrogena, which declined it, but its CEO, Allan Kurtzman, suggested selling it via infomercials. [10] [11] Guthy-Renker were already in the infomercial business and agreed to market and distribute it. The first infomercial appeared in October 1995, offering a money-back guarantee and fast delivery, and featuring spokesmodel Judith Light, who suffered from acne problems herself. [11] [12] Rodan and Fields later founded their own skincare brand, Rodan + Fields. [13]

Guthy-Renker

Guthy-Renker LLC is a direct-response marketing company registered in El Segundo, California. Founded in November 1988 by Bill Guthy and Greg Renker, the company is known as "the Rolls-Royce" of the infomercial industry. [14] [15] As of 2012 its portfolio of products was making $1.8 billion a year. [16] The range includes Victoria Principal's Principal Secret skincare (its earliest skincare brand), Wen Hair Care, Cindy Crawford's Meaningful Beauty skincare, JLO Beauty [17] [18] [19]

Nestlé

In March 2000, Nestlé joined Guthy-Renker as a majority owner of Proactiv. In October 2016, Nestle sold its shares to EQT Partners. [1]

Alchemee and Taro

In 2022, The Proactiv Company makers of the #1 selling acne regimen, is announcing its rebrand and repositioning under the new name Alchemee. [20] In early 2022, Alchemee announces its acquisition by Taro Pharmaceutical Industries Ltd. (NYSE: TARO) [21]

Products

Proactiv is a registered trademark of Alchemee/Taro Pharmaceutical Industries Ltd. The brand's primary products are three-step kits comprising a cleanser, toner/treatment and lotion/moisturizer, which sells for $36 a month in the United States.

The Revitalizing Toner contains glycolic acid, Aloe Barbadensis leaf juice, and witch hazel, an astringent. [22] [23] The active ingredient in the cleanser and lotion, outside Europe, is a 2.5% concentration of micro-crystal benzoyl peroxide. Benzoyl peroxide has been used since 1934 to kill Cutibacterium acnes , the bacterium that causes acne. [24] Several over-the-counter acne treatments contain it, including Clean & Clear, Clearasil, Doctor's Dermatologic Formula, Neutrogena Advanced Systems, PanOxyl and Stridex. [25] [26]

In 2013, Proactiv+ was introduced, it is a paraben-free three-step kit comprising an exfoliating cleanser (Skin Smoothing Exfoliator), treatment (Pore Targeting Treatment) and hydrating moisturizer (Complexion Perfecting Hydrator). The exfoliator contains 2.5% micro-crystal benzoyl peroxide, the treatment contains 2.5% encapsulated benzoyl peroxide, and a moisturizer with 0.5% salicylic acid. It is more hydrating than the original program and designed for dry-to-sensitive skin types. [5]

Safety and efficacy

A skin reaction from benzoyl peroxide BenzoperoxideRx.JPG
A skin reaction from benzoyl peroxide

Proactiv is aimed at customers with mild to moderate acne. [22] According to a 2011 review, there have been few studies examining its efficacy. [3] A 2007 study saw inflammatory lesions reduced by 39% in subjects using a combination of butenafine and benzoyl peroxide, compared with 34% in those using Proactiv containing only benzoyl peroxide. [3] [27] A physician suggested in Salon that its three-step system might make it easier for teenagers to comply, but that the key to its success lay with its celebrity endorsements. [25]

In 2011, Consumer Reports compared Proactiv (2.5% benzoyl peroxide) with two less expensive products, AcneFree (2.5% benzoyl peroxide) and OXY Maximum (10% benzoyl peroxide). [28] At the time a two-month supply of Proactiv cost around $40 in the US, AcneFree $20 and OXY Maximum $5. [8] Eighty-three subjects, aged 14 to 40, used one of the products twice a day for eight weeks. The magazine reported that, no matter which product was used, after two weeks around 75% of subjects saw a 35% reduction in blemishes on average. After eight weeks, around 50–66% saw a 40% reduction on average. [28]

Benzoyl peroxide can have a drying effect on the skin, can cause erythema (redness) and fine scaling, though these effects are usually mild, and can increase sensitivity to sunlight. One in 500 may experience allergic contact dermatitis. It is categorized as a pregnancy category C agent, "suggesting that its use in pregnancy may not be prudent," according to a literature review in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology. [n 1] If benzoyl peroxide comes into contact with clothing it is likely to bleach it. [29]

The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) warned in 2014 that over-the-counter acne products containing benzoyl peroxide and/or salicylic acid, including Proactiv, can cause severe irritation, as well as rare but life-threatening allergic reactions. Consumers were advised to stop using the products if they experience hives or itching, and to seek emergency medical attention if they feel faint, or experience throat tightness, breathing problems, or swelling of the eyes, face, lips or tongue. The FDA noted that it remains unclear whether the reactions are caused by the active ingredients, inactive ingredients or a combination. [30]

Sales and marketing

Sales

Proactiv vending machine, Indianapolis International Airport, 2008 Proactiv vending machine, Indianapolis airport, February 2008.jpg
Proactiv vending machine, Indianapolis International Airport, 2008

Proactiv is marketed and distributed by Guthy-Renker, and is responsible for about half the company's revenue. [14] [16] Sales of Proactiv amounted to $800 million as of 2010. [7] 70% of sales were in the United States as of 2007. [22]

The product is available in some stores, including Boots in the UK, [31] and in kiosks and vending machines (known as ZoomShops) in malls and airports through a partnership between American Kiosk Management and Guthy-Renker . [32] [33] But the product is mostly sold online or through a toll-free number directly by Guthy-Renker; 60% of Proactiv orders were placed online as of 2010. [34] In 2016, Proactive began selling their products at Ulta Beauty. [35]

Continuity program

Alchemee sells Proactiv as part of a continuity program, also known as a negative-option offer, whereby customers are sent repeat orders of the program until they cancel their subscription. [8] [36] When purchasing directly from the company, customers automatically become members of a Proactiv club. A month after ordering, and every three months thereafter, they are sent a three-month supply costing $34.95 (in the US as of 2022). They are billed monthly until they cancel the subscription. [37] The approach is based on the customer lifetime value model. [38]

Commercials and advertising

At the time Guthy-Renker owned Proactiv, they had a media budget of $200 million for the brand, much of it spent on air-time, and was spending another $12–15 million a year on celebrity endorsements. [7] Justin Bieber for example, was paid $3 million over two years. [34] Its infomercials have featured celebrities who have themselves suffered from acne problems; the list includes Jennifer Love Hewitt, Kelly Clarkson, P. Diddy, Boys Like Girls, Avril Lavigne, Lindsay Lohan, Alyssa Milano, Katy Perry, Jessica Simpson, Britney Spears, Kendall Jenner and Vanessa Williams. [12]

According to the New York Times, until 2010 Proactiv infomercials were "fast-talking" and "hard-selling"; an announcer repeatedly advised viewers to "call now," and offered faster shipping if the order was placed within three minutes. As infomercials became less popular, Proactiv sales stalled. [39] Since 2010 Guthy-Renker has tried to move the brand into the mainstream cosmetics market, focusing on quality rather than price. [7] It began advertising on network television during shows like Two and a Half Men, and in Elle, InStyle and People magazines. [39]

In 2012, the Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) in the UK banned some of Proactiv's advertising as misleading. A viewer complained that the celebrities were likely to have used the US version of Proactiv, which differs from the UK version. According to the ASA, the celebrities had signed statements saying they had used the UK version for a few weeks one to three years earlier, but the advertisements gave the appearance that they had continued to benefit from it, so the viewer's complaint was upheld. [40]

Notes

  1. ↑ Ashley Decker, Emmy M. Graber (Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 2012): "Since the 1930s, BP [benzoyl peroxide] has been a popular choice for the treatment of AV [acne vulgaris] due to its keratolytic, moderate comedolytic, and antibacterial properties, which include the reduction of Cutibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus aureus on skin. Cutaneous side effects of BP are most often irritant in nature, may be concentration and/or vehicle dependent, and are usually mild, including signs such as dryness, erythema, and fine scaling. A minority of the population treated with BP for AV will experience true allergic contact dermatitis (1:500). Although available OTC, BP is a pregnancy category C agent, suggesting that its use in pregnancy may not be prudent." [6]

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Acne</span> Skin condition characterized by pimples

Acne, also known as acne vulgaris, is a long-term skin condition that occurs when dead skin cells and oil from the skin clog hair follicles. Typical features of the condition include blackheads or whiteheads, pimples, oily skin, and possible scarring. It primarily affects skin with a relatively high number of oil glands, including the face, upper part of the chest, and back. The resulting appearance can lead to lack of confidence, anxiety, reduced self-esteem, and, in extreme cases, depression or thoughts of suicide.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Benzoyl peroxide</span> Chemical compound with uses in industry and acne treatment

Benzoyl peroxide is a chemical compound (specifically, an organic peroxide) with structural formula (C6H5−C(=O)O−)2, often abbreviated as (BzO)2. In terms of its structure, the molecule can be described as two benzoyl (C6H5−C(=O)−, Bz) groups connected by a peroxide (−O−O−). It is a white granular solid with a faint odour of benzaldehyde, poorly soluble in water but soluble in acetone, ethanol, and many other organic solvents. Benzoyl peroxide is an oxidizer, which is principally used as in the production of polymers.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Adapalene</span> Third-generation topical retinoid

Adapalene is a third-generation topical retinoid primarily used in the treatment of mild-moderate acne, and is also used off-label to treat keratosis pilaris as well as other skin conditions. Studies have found adapalene is as effective as other retinoids, while causing less irritation. It also has several advantages over other retinoids. The adapalene molecule is more stable compared to tretinoin and tazarotene, which leads to less concern for photodegradation. It is also chemically more stable compared to the other two retinoids, allowing it to be used in combination with benzoyl peroxide. Due to its effects on keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation, adapalene is superior to tretinoin for the treatment of comedonal acne and is often used as a first-line agent. The Swiss company Galderma sells adapalene under the brand-name product Differin.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Clearasil</span> Brand of skin care and acne medication

Clearasil is a brand of skin care and acne medication, whose products contain chiefly benzoyl peroxide, sulfur and resorcinol, triclosan, or salicylic acid as active ingredients. Clearasil has a wide range of products both for rapid and sometimes slow acne treatment and for everyday prevention. The products are marketed to customers worldwide.

The term cleanser refers to a product that cleans or removes dirt or other substances. A cleanser could be a detergent, and there are many types of cleansers that are produced with a specific objective or focus. For instance, a degreaser or carburetor cleanser used in automotive mechanics for cleaning certain engine and car parts.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Moisturizer</span> Type of cosmetics

A moisturizer, or emollient, is a cosmetic preparation used for protecting, moisturizing, and lubricating the skin. These functions are normally performed by sebum produced by healthy skin. The word "emollient" is derived from the Latin verb mollire, to soften.

Natural skin care uses topical creams and lotions made of ingredients available in nature. Much of the recent literature reviews plant-derived ingredients, which may include herbs, roots, flowers and essential oils, but natural substances in skin care products include animal-derived products such as beeswax, and minerals. These substances may be combined with various carrier agents, preservatives, surfactants, humectants and emulsifiers.

Stridex is an American acne treatment and prevention medicine, originally registered trademark of Bayer Corporation. It comes in the form of fibrous pads saturated with astringents. Most products in the Stridex line contain as the active ingredient salicylic acid (0.5–2.5%); Stridex Power Pads instead contain benzoyl peroxide (2.5%), a nonprescription acne treatment medication. However, they also warn about possible side effects: dryness of the skin, possible burning, and tingling. Patients are advised to apply treatment with caution around lips, nose and mouth, or cuts and scrapes, and also avoid excessive sun exposure. In 2013, FDA started to investigate a possible link between benzoyl peroxide- and/or salicylic acid-based acne prevention medicine with hypersensitivity and anaphylactic reactions without calling off any products or placing warnings.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Clindamycin/benzoyl peroxide</span> Type of medication

Clindamycin/benzoyl peroxide is a topical gel used for the treatment of acne. It is a fixed-dose combination of clindamycin, as the phosphate, an antibiotic, and benzoyl peroxide, an antiseptic.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Lotion</span> Skin treatment preparation

Lotion is a low-viscosity topical preparation intended for application to the skin. By contrast, creams and gels have higher viscosity, typically due to lower water content. Lotions are applied to external skin with bare hands, a brush, a clean cloth, or cotton wool.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Skin care</span> Range of practices that support skin integrity

Skin care or skincare is a range of practices that support skin integrity, enhance its appearance, and relieve skin conditions. They can include nutrition, avoidance of excessive sun exposure, and appropriate use of emollients. Practices that enhance appearance include the use of cosmetics, botulinum, exfoliation, fillers, laser resurfacing, microdermabrasion, peels, retinol therapy, and ultrasonic skin treatment. Skin care is a routine daily procedure in many settings, such as skin that is either too dry or too moist, and prevention of dermatitis and prevention of skin injuries.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Clean & Clear</span>

Clean & Clear is an American brand of dermatology products owned by Kenvue.

Guthy-Renker is a California-based direct-response marketing company that sells health and beauty products directly to consumers through infomercials, television ads, direct mail, telemarketing, e-mail marketing, and the Internet. Many of its products are endorsed by celebrities including actresses and musicians

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pimple</span> Type of comedo

A pimple or zit is a kind of comedo that results from excess sebum and dead skin cells getting trapped in the pores of the skin. In its aggravated state, it may evolve into a pustule or papule. Pimples can be treated by acne medications, antibiotics, and anti-inflammatories prescribed by a physician, or various over the counter remedies purchased at a pharmacy.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Adapalene/benzoyl peroxide</span> Pharmaceutical combination

Adapalene/benzoyl peroxide, sold under the brand name Epiduo among others, is a fixed-dose combination medication for the treatment of severe acne vulgaris. It consists of a combination of adapalene and benzoyl peroxide in a topical gel formulation.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Stiefel Laboratories</span> American corporation

Stiefel Laboratories Inc. is an American dermatological pharmaceutical company, with its global headquarters in Research Triangle Park, North Carolina. It makes products such as Duac and Oilatum. Stiefel was acquired by GSK plc at a price of $2.9 billion. The company was founded in 1847 by John David Stiefel, Ferdinand von Hebra and Paul Unna, who initially created medicated soaps.

Theraderm is an American manufacturer of clinical-grade skin care products, including anti-aging creams and moisturizers, as well as an acne system under an alternate brand: Reversion. The company was founded in 1996 by board-certified plastic and reconstructive surgeon James Beckman, M.D., who is also a biochemist and adjunct associate professor of dermatology at UAMS Medical School. The company is headquartered in Springdale, Arkansas.

Rodan & Fields, LLC, known as Rodan + Fields or R+F, is an American multi-level marketing company specializing in skincare products. Katie Rodan and Kathy A. Fields, creators of Proactiv, started the Rodan + Fields brand in 2002 and sold it a year later. They relaunched the brand in 2007 as a multi-level marketing firm.

Katie Rodan is an American dermatologist, entrepreneur, and author. She is co-creator of the acne management system Proactiv, co-founder of multi-level marketing skincare company Rodan + Fields, and operates a private cosmetic dermatology practice in Oakland, California. In 2015, she was listed by Forbes as one of the 50 most successful self-made women in the United States. She is a billionaire.

Kathy A. Fields is a dermatologist with a private practice located in San Francisco. She is also the co-creator of Proactiv and co-founder of Rodan + Fields, leading her to amass a $1.5 billion net worth. In 2018, Forbes listed her as number eighteen on its list of "America's Self-Made Women".

References

  1. 1 2 Grettler, Corinne (March 24, 2016). "Nestle Forms Alliance With Bieber's Fave Acne Cure Proactiv". Bloomberg. Retrieved April 11, 2016.
  2. ↑ Katie Rodan, Kathy Fields (2008). Unblemished, Simon and Schuster, pp. 4–8.
  3. 1 2 3 Kraft John, Freiman Anatoli (2011). "Management of acne". Canadian Medical Association Journal. 183 (7): E430–E435. doi:10.1503/cmaj.090374. PMC   3080563 . PMID   21398228.
  4. ↑ "List of Proactiv products and their ingredients". DailyMed, National Institutes of Health.
  5. 1 2 "Proactiv History". Proactiv.com. Retrieved September 15, 2022.
  6. 1 2 Decker Ashley, Graber Emmy M (2012). "Over-the-counter Acne Treatments". Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology. 5 (5): 32–40. PMC   3366450 . PMID   22808307.
  7. 1 2 3 4 Rose Lacey (November 3, 2010). "Shill Shocked". Forbes.
  8. 1 2 3 Ric Romero (November 7, 2011). "Which Acne Treatment Works Best, Costs Less?". ABC7. Archived from the original on September 21, 2013. Retrieved May 16, 2022.
  9. ↑ Rodan and Fields 2008, pp. 4–7.
  10. 1 2 Galina Espinoza (July 15, 2002). "Saving Face". People.
  11. 1 2 Rodan and Fields 2008, p. 8.
  12. 1 2 Meghan Casserly (November 30, 2010). "Proactiv's Active Ingredient: Celebrity". Forbes.
  13. ↑ Dana Mattioli, Gillian Tan (February 18, 2015). "Skin Care Company Rodan & Fields Pursuing a Sale", Wall Street Journal.
  14. 1 2 J. B. Arndorfer (May 2, 2005). "Guthy-Renker gives the infomercial street cred," Advertising Age, 76(18).
  15. ↑ Bernice Kanner (October 21, 1991). "30 Minutes: Selling with Infomercials", New York Magazine.
  16. 1 2 Emma Johnson (September 10, 2012). "As Seen on TV". Success Magazine.
  17. ↑ "The Top DRTV National and Cable Satellite Rankings", Response Magazine.
  18. ↑ Kate Lunau (January 8, 2011). "Pretty valuable faces", Macleans.
  19. ↑ Charles Wesley Orton (May 2001). "Partners in Time: The Guthy-Renker story" Archived 2013-10-22 at the Wayback Machine , Response Magazine.
  20. ↑ Alchemee. "The Proactiv Company Announces Transition to Alchemee and Expansion of Regimen-Based Skincare Offerings". www.prnewswire.com (Press release). Retrieved 2022-09-15.
  21. ↑ "Taro Completes Acquisition of Alchemee". www.businesswire.com. 2022-02-28. Retrieved 2022-09-15.
  22. 1 2 3 Natasha Singer (October 18, 2007). "Why Should Kids Have All the Acne?", The New York Times.
  23. ↑ Natasha Singer (October 19, 2007). "The lucrative business of pimples; Proactiv ad campaign transforms way consumers think about acne". LIFE. pp. D2.
  24. ↑ Fluhr J. W., Degitz K. (2010). "Antibiotics, azelaic acid and benzoyl peroxide in topical acne therapy". Journal der Deutschen Dermatologischen Gesellschaft. 8 (S1): S24–S30. doi:10.1111/j.1610-0387.2009.07169.x. PMID   20482689. S2CID   205857495.
  25. 1 2 Rahul Parikh (February 28, 2011). "Proactiv's celebrity shell game". Salon.
  26. ↑ Jessica Wu (2011). Feed Your Face, Macmillan, p. 70.
  27. ↑ Craig G. Burkhart; Craig N. Burkhart (2007). "Treatment of acne vulgaris without antibiotics: tertiary amine-benzoyl peroxide combination vs. benzoyl peroxide alone (Proactiv Solution?)". International Journal of Dermatology. 46 (1): 89–93. doi:10.1111/j.1365-4632.2007.03081.x. PMID   17214729. S2CID   24178595.{{cite journal}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link)
  28. 1 2 Review of acne treatments, Consumer Reports, November 2011
  29. ↑ Robert M. Kliegman et al. (2015). Nelson Textbook of Pediatrics, Elsevier Health Sciences, p  3231.
  30. ↑ "Over-The-Counter Topical Acne Products: Drug Safety Communication - Rare But Serious Hypersensitivity Reactions", Food and Drug Administration, June 25, 2014.
  31. ↑ "Proactiv Solution 3 Step System To Clearer Healthier Looking Skin" Archived 2015-11-21 at the Wayback Machine , Boots.
  32. ↑ Stephanie Rosenbloom (May 25, 2010). "The New Touch-Face of Vending Machines". The New York Times.
  33. ↑ Brian Steinberg (April 18, 2007), "Questions for ... Greg Renker & Ben Van De Bunt", The Wall Street Journal
  34. 1 2 Jennifer Netherby (August 20, 2010). "Justin Bieber Joins Proactiv's Zit-Geist". Billboard.
  35. ↑ "Guess Where You Can Finally Buy Proactiv". Allure. 2016-09-01. Retrieved 2021-07-22.
  36. ↑ "Five Common Complaints about Guthy-Renker", Truth in Advertising, June 25, 2013.
  37. ↑ Lynda Steele (November 9, 2011). "Testing star-endorsed Proactiv", CTV News.
  38. ↑ Josh Kaufman (2010). The Personal MBA: Master the Art of Business. Penguin. p.  196. ISBN   978-1-101-44608-9.
  39. 1 2 Stuart Elliott (May 4, 2010). "Trying to Move Up From a Fast-Talking, Buy-Now Approach". The New York Times.
  40. ↑ "ASA Ruling on Guthy-Renker UK Ltd", Advertising Standards Authority, July 18, 2012.
    Mark Sweney (July 18, 2012), "Katy Perry and Justin Bieber zit ad campaign banned", The Guardian

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