Qutni

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Qutni(cuttanee, couthnys, Koetnies, Kutni) is an old silk and cotton mix cloth with a striped pattern. Qutni is a satin weave structure with silk in warp and cotton in the weft. [1] [2] It was made In Gujarat, India. Qutni was also produced at Damascus, Aleppo, Hama. [3] [2] [4]

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Types

Qutni or Cuttanee

Cuttanee (Persian : قطنى) was related to silk alachas [5] Qutni of Gujarat was a Satin weave with silk threads in warp and cotton in the weft. Gujarat was exporting Qutni in large to Europe and much appreciated for quilts. [6] [2]

Rich Qutni

Damascus designed various silk cloths where Qutni and Alza were significant. They were making two types of Qutni, simple and rich, both with the same quantity of silk and cotton. The rich Qutni (Arabic: manqusheh) is a silk satin stripe patterned cloth in which weft is a foundation and warp creating the patterns. It is a superior fabric to simple Qutni.

Qutni was weaved as per market specified dimensions; for example, Length 6.13 meters width 0.7 meters was for Syria, Baghdad and Constantinople, Smyrna, and Persia. But for Egypt, the length was slightly more, i.e., 6.83 with the same width. [7]

Mashru

Mashru silk samples in John Forbes Watson book elicits Qutni as Roques reports cottonis variations including stripes of cotton and silk that insinuates Mashru, the most related cloth from Gujrat, i.e., Qutni while J. Irwin compared alaja to Qutni. [8]

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Weaving</span> Technology for the production of textiles

Weaving is a method of textile production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth. Other methods are knitting, crocheting, felting, and braiding or plaiting. The longitudinal threads are called the warp and the lateral threads are the weft, woof, or filling. The method in which these threads are interwoven affects the characteristics of the cloth. Cloth is usually woven on a loom, a device that holds the warp threads in place while filling threads are woven through them. A fabric band that meets this definition of cloth can also be made using other methods, including tablet weaving, back strap loom, or other techniques that can be done without looms.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Woven fabric</span> Textiles formed by weaving

Woven fabric is any textile formed by weaving. Woven fabrics are often created on a loom, and made of many threads woven on a warp and a weft. Technically, a woven fabric is any fabric made by interlacing two or more threads at right angles to one another. Woven fabrics can be made of natural fibers, synthetic fibers, or a mixture of both, such as cotton and polyester.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Satin</span> Shiny, fragile fabric weave pattern, with long floats

A satin weave is a type of fabric weave that produces a characteristically glossy, smooth or lustrous material, typically with a glossy top surface and a dull back; it is not durable, as it tends to snag. It is one of three fundamental types of textile weaves alongside plain weave and twill weave.

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Double cloth</span> Woven textile type

Double cloth or double weave is a kind of woven textile in which two or more sets of warps and one or more sets of weft or filling yarns are interconnected to form a two-layered cloth. The movement of threads between the layers allows complex patterns and surface textures to be created.

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sateen</span> Fabric

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Plain weave</span> Method of weaving cloth in which each warp and weft thread crosses over/under every other thread

Plain weave is the most basic of three fundamental types of textile weaves. It is strong and hard-wearing, and is used for fashion and furnishing fabrics. Fabrics with a plain weave are generally strong, durable, and have a smooth surface. They are often used for a variety of applications, including clothing, home textiles, and industrial fabrics.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Silk in the Indian subcontinent</span>

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The manufacture of textiles is one of the oldest of human technologies. To make textiles, the first requirement is a source of fiber from which a yarn can be made, primarily by spinning. The yarn is processed by knitting or weaving, which turns it into cloth. The machine used for weaving is the loom. For decoration, the process of colouring yarn or the finished material is dyeing. For more information of the various steps, see textile manufacturing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Samite</span> Silk fabric

Samite was a luxurious and heavy silk fabric worn in the Middle Ages, of a twill-type weave, often including gold or silver thread. The word was derived from Old French samit, from medieval Latin samitum, examitum deriving from the Byzantine Greek ἑξάμιτον hexamiton "six threads", usually interpreted as indicating the use of six yarns in the warp. Samite is still used in ecclesiastical robes, vestments, ornamental fabrics, and interior decoration.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Moire (fabric)</span> Fabric with a wavy appearance

Moire, less often moiré, is a textile with a wavy (watered) appearance produced mainly from silk, but also wool, cotton and rayon. The watered appearance is usually created by the finishing technique called calendering. Moiré effects are also achieved by certain weaves, such as varying the tension in the warp and weft of the weave. Silk treated in this way is sometimes called watered silk.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Piece goods</span> Textile piece goods

Piece goods were the textile materials sold in cut pieces as per the buyer's specification. The piece goods were either cut from a fabric roll or produced with a certain length, also called yard goods. Various textiles such as cotton, wool, silk, etc., were traded in terms of piece goods. The prices were determined as per the fabric quality.

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mashru</span> Woven cloth, blend of silk and cotton

Mashru is a woven cloth that is a blend of silk and cotton. It was historically a hand-woven satin silk fabric variety found in the Indian subcontinent, and its proper use is described in the 16th-century Ain-i-Akbari.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Brocatelle</span> Silk-rich fabric with heavy brocade designs

Brocatelle is a silk-rich fabric with heavy brocade designs. The material is characterized by satin effects standing out in relief in the warp against a flat ground. It is produced with jacquard weave by using silk, rayon, cotton, or many synthetic yarns.

A blend is a mixture of two or more fibers. In yarn spinning, different compositions, lengths, diameters, or colors may be combined to create a blend. Blended textiles are fabrics or yarns produced with a combination of two or more types of different fibers, or yarns to obtain desired traits and aesthetics. Blending is possible at various stages of textile manufacturing. The term, blend, refers to spun fibers or a fabric composed of such fibers. There are several synonymous terms: a combination yarn is made up of two strands of different fibers twisted together to form a ply; a mixture or mixed cloth refers to blended cloths in which different types of yarns are used in warp and weft sides.

References

  1. Chaudhury, Sushil; Morineau, Michel (2007-07-12). Merchants, Companies and Trade: Europe and Asia in the Early Modern Era. Cambridge University Press. p. 115. ISBN   978-0-521-03747-1.
  2. 1 2 3 Irwin, John; Schwartz, P. R. (1966). Studies in Indo-European Textile History. Calico Museum of Textile. p. 24.
  3. Gillow, John (2013). Textiles of the Islamic World. Thames & Hudson. p. 98. ISBN   978-0-500-29083-5. Ikat fabric with a silk or rayon warp but cotton weft is known as qutni . Qutni fabrics are still woven in Aleppo , Hama and Damascus . Batik Until the 1940s , Aleppo was a major centre for indigo dyeing , and it is in that city that a form of batik ...
  4. Singh, Abhay Kumar (2006). Modern World System and Indian Proto-industrialization: Bengal 1650-1800. Northern Book Centre. p. 831. ISBN   978-81-7211-201-1.
  5. Studies in Indo-European textile history, John Irwin, P. R. Schwartz, 1966
  6. Irwin, John; Schwartz, P. R. (1966). Studies in Indo-European Textile History. Calico Museum of Textile. p. 63.
  7. Issawi, Charles (1988-07-14). The Fertile Crescent, 1800-1914: A Documentary Economic History. Oxford University Press. p. 383. ISBN   978-0-19-536421-7.
  8. Malekandathil, Pius (2016-09-13). The Indian Ocean in the Making of Early Modern India. Routledge. ISBN   978-1-351-99745-4.
  9. Fukasawa, Toilerie et commerce du Levant, p. 45.
  10. Kiitiikoglu, Osmanlilarda, pp. 117, 145.
  11. Chaudhury, Sushil; Morineau, Michel (2007-07-12). Merchants, Companies and Trade: Europe and Asia in the Early Modern Era. Cambridge University Press. pp. 104, 105. ISBN   978-0-521-03747-1.
  12. Sarkar, Jagadish Narayan (1975). Studies in Economic Life in Mughal India. Oriental Publishers & Distributors. p. 33.
  13. The Indian Historical Quarterly. Ramanand Vidya Bhawan. 1985. p. 223.