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The Royal Asscher Diamond Company (Dutch : Koninklijke Asscher Diamant Maatschappij) was founded in 1854 by the Asscher family of gemcutters. The company is responsible for cutting some of the most famous diamonds in the world including the 2nd largest diamond ever found. Its headquarters still stand at its original location Tolstraat 127 in Amsterdam, the Netherlands. The company also has regional headquarters in New York City (Royal Asscher of America) and Tokyo (Royal Asscher of Japan).
Royal Asscher is still owned by the Asscher family. The Asscher Diamond Company, made famous at the turn of the 20th century by Joseph and Abraham Asscher, became Royal Asscher Diamond Company in 1980 when it was bestowed with the Dutch Royal Predicate from Queen Juliana of the Netherlands in recognition of the company's stature in the Netherlands. In 2011 Queen Beatrix perpetuated the Royal Prefix for another 25 years.
In 1854 Joseph Isaac Asscher established the I.J Asscher diamond company, named for his son Isaac Joseph Asscher, who followed in his father's footsteps and entered the diamond industry. He passed down his expertise to his five sons, including Joseph and Abraham. Under Joseph and Abraham, the company was known as the Asscher Diamond Company and cut diamonds to be set in jewellery for world famous boutiques. As one of the largest diamond polishing companies at that time, its private clients included royalty, celebrities, and politicians.
In 1902 Joseph Asscher designed and patented his original Asscher cut, the world's first patented diamond cut, to protect it from replication by others. The Company held its exclusive patent until the Second World War and saw strong sales internationally, particularly during the 1920s and 30s.
The original design had 58 step-cut facets, a small table, high crown and steep pavilion with cut corners. An accurate description would be a cut cornered square emerald cut diamond.
Also known as square emerald cuts, Asscher cut diamonds are roughly square in shape when viewed from above but have cut corners for more light to enter the diamond. They typically have 50 or 58 facets and their ideal length to width ratio is 1 to 1.04.
The Asscher cut was a staple of art deco and art nouveau era jewellery, with its straight lines and faceting arrangement aligning with the clean and graphic elements espoused by the movement. Because of the facet arrangement, high crown and depth, Asschers are known for creating a "hall of mirrors" effect.
Almost 100 years after the Original Asscher Cut was first conceived, Joseph Asscher's great-grand nephews, Edward and Joop Asscher, revised the design, adding sixteen additional facets to make it reminiscent of the Cullinan II diamond of the Imperial Crown. The result is a 74-facet step-cut square diamond.
By adding facets on the outside of the diamond, the Royal Asscher Round Brilliant Cut removes some of the darker elements seen in a traditional round diamond, even an ideal cut. The effect is a crisp, clear centre, which though true to the round diamond shape is distinctively different with 74 facets compared to the generic diamond's 58.
The Asscher family launched The Royal Asscher Oval Cut in 2018. Like the company's other diamond cuts the Royal Asscher Oval Cut is patented, with 74 facets compared to the generic round diamond's usual 58. Edward Asscher (fifth generation) and Mike Asscher (sixth generation) played with proportions and faceting patterns, creating a modified-brilliant faceting style.
The Royal Asscher Cushion Cut was launched in 2018, the diamond has additional faceting on the table and bottom of its design, which exposes the diamond's sparkle potential without losing the soft pillowy elegance of the cut. Like Royal Asscher's other diamond cuts the design is patented.
The Asscher family also patented the Trilliant cut in the 1970s. [1]
In 1903, at 997 carats (199.4 g), the Excelsior diamond was the largest diamond found, to date. The gem required expert handling to be properly carved: inclusions within the rough diamond prevented it from being polished as a single stone. Abraham Asscher was charged with cleaving the Excelsior; to minimize flaws, he carved the stone into ten diamonds which were primarily sold to anonymous purchasers. Rumor and myth abound regarding the location of the diamonds.
The Excelsior diamond was the focal point of the 2003 Victoria's Secret Fantasy Bra valued at approximately $13 million with a jeweled panty for additional $1 million.
In 1905 the Cullinan diamond was discovered. At 3,106 carats (621.2 g) it was a legendary find, and achieved instant renown across the globe. The diamond was presented to King Edward VII, and he invited the Asscher brothers to London to discuss cleaving the diamond. It was decided that Joseph Asscher would cleave the Cullinan into three parts, necessitated by inclusions within the rough diamond. Nine large stones were cut from it, the largest being the Cullinan I at 530.20 carats (106.040 g).
In February 1908 an audience gathered to watch Joseph Asscher cleave the huge stone. In order to yield large, beautiful diamonds he needed to hit the Cullinan in exactly the right place. On his first strike his blade broke, while the stone remained intact. He dismissed all present and set to work creating larger, stronger tools. The following week, armed with new tools, Joseph resumed his work, allowing no one but the notary public in the cutting room. Urban legend recounts that Joseph fainted after striking the Cullinan diamond with a tremendous blow. He later commented that the adrenaline surging through him the moment the stone split was so strong all he could think to do was to examine the stone and check his workmanship over and over again before rushing to the next room to share the good news. Later, the Cullinan diamonds were polished, becoming part of the Crown Jewels of the United Kingdom.
During the Second World War battle of the Netherlands the Nazis as part of their extermination plans, entered the Asscher Diamond Company's Amsterdam headquarters and seized its diamonds. Since the Asscher family were Jewish they were deported from the Netherlands and interned in Nazi concentration camps along with nearly all of the company's 500 master polishers. Most of the Asscher family and over 96 percent of the polishers were murdered by the Nazis. [2]
During the war the patent on the original Asscher cut expired. With no one to renew the patent, other companies started to utilize the Asscher cut, leading to market confusion about the origin of many Asscher cut diamonds. Some companies chose to call their Asscher cut diamonds square-emerald cuts instead. Many of these diamonds were cut for yield and did not necessarily follow Joseph Asscher's original proportion calculations for the Asscher cut, which specified parameters for the diamond's crown height, table size, and facet alignment.Only ten Asscher family members and fifteen of the five hundred polishers survived the Holocaust. Although once the world's diamond polishing capital, the diamond industry in Amsterdam was virtually wiped out during the war, including the Asscher Diamond Company. Antwerp subsequently emerged as a major diamond polishing center.
In 1946 Joop and Louis Asscher were invited to start a new company in New York, but they chose to remain in their home of Amsterdam and rebuild the Asscher Diamond Company. During the 1950s and 1960s the company began exploring new markets and became a prominent diamantaire in Japan.
The Asscher family secured international design patents on all of their cuts, so that they can not be legally imitated; Royal Asscher is also trademarked and the company owns exclusive rights to the name. To further guarantee authenticity each diamond is laser inscribed with the Royal Asscher logo and an identification number belonging to a single diamond only. The number is logged with the Royal Asscher Diamond Company in Amsterdam and a Royal Asscher certificate accompanies the diamond.
Today the Royal Asscher Diamond Company are Fancy Cut specialists. Consumer understanding of diamonds has increased with the advent of the internet, online sellers and social media, leading to a growing interest in generic fancy shape diamonds. Non-round shapes used to be harder to find and purchase as there is no universal cut grading system for fancy shapes, whereas round diamond shapes have the ideal category (as best in cut class). Seeking to create a new level of perfection in this class, Royal Asscher debuted four cuts, each cut with 16 more facets compared to generic counterparts.
In 1980 Her Majesty Queen Juliana of the Netherlands granted the Asscher Diamond Company a royal title in tribute to the leading, century-old role the company and Asscher family held in the diamond industry. With this honor, the Asscher Diamond Company became the Royal Asscher Diamond Company.
The fifth and sixth generations of the Asscher family remain active in the business. Edward Asscher worked in conjunction with daughter Lita and son Mike until his retirement in March 2020. With his departure, Lita and Mike became co-presidents of the firm. [3] In 2024, the company employs 100 workers around the world. Important stones are cut in Amsterdam, while smaller ones are sent to India. [4]
The company keeps a "Golden Book" of visitors, who have included Emperor Hirohito of Japan, Queen Elizabeth II of the United Kingdom, and Queen Juliana and Prince Bernhard of the Netherlands. Royal Asscher jewellery is often seen at red-carpet events.
Designed by Architect Gerrit Van Arkel, the castle-like structure of the original Asscher factory is considered a jewel of Amsterdam's De Pijp area. To provide ample light for working on the diamonds, the factory had huge windows. A police station was established outside. At one time over 500 diamond polishers worked in the building. Some of the largest and most iconic diamonds in the world were cut and polished here. Tolstraat 127 became known as the Diamantbuurt (Diamond District), with street names such as Diamantstraat (Diamond Street), Robijnstraat (Ruby Street), Saffierstraat (Sapphire Street) and Smaragdstraat (Emerald Street). The area is now known as the "Asscher Quarter" and the old factory is a luxury apartment complex. The main tower has remained Royal Asscher's headquarters.
In 2017, a renewal project repurposed the Asscher diamond factory and the Nieuwer-Amstel into luxury flats to create the new high-end zone Asscherkwartier. [5]
In a 2006 episode of Antiques Roadshow (S25-E24), a school teacher brought an Asscher-cut diamond to the show that was estimated between $75K to $100K. [6]
When Aidan Shaw proposes to Carrie Bradshaw in Sex and the City , he does so with a Harry Winston 3-carat Asscher-cut diamond ring. [7]
Diamond cutting is the practice of shaping a diamond from a rough stone into a faceted gem. Cutting diamonds requires specialized knowledge, tools, equipment, and techniques because of its extreme difficulty.
The Cullinan Diamond is the largest gem-quality rough diamond ever found, weighing 3,106 carats (621.20 g), discovered at the Premier No.2 mine in Cullinan, South Africa, on 26 January 1905. It was named after Thomas Cullinan, the owner of the mine. In April 1905, it was put on sale in London, but despite considerable interest, it was still unsold after two years. In 1907, the Transvaal Colony government bought the Cullinan and Prime Minister Louis Botha presented it to Edward VII, the British king who reigned over the territory. It was then cut by Joseph Asscher & Co. in Amsterdam.
The Golden Jubilee Diamond, a 545.67 carat brown diamond, is the largest cut and faceted diamond in the world. It outweighs the Cullinan I by 15.37 carats. The Golden Jubilee Diamond was discovered in 1985 at the Premier Mine, which is also the origin of the Cullinan diamond (1905) and other notables such as the Taylor–Burton (1966) and the Centenary (1986). Cullinan I, also known as the Great Star of Africa, had held the title of the largest cut and faceted diamond since 1908.
A diamond cut is a style or design guide used when shaping a diamond for polishing such as the brilliant cut. Cut refers to shape, and also the symmetry, proportioning and polish of a diamond. The cut of a diamond greatly affects a diamond's brilliance—a poorly-cut diamond is less luminous.
The Excelsior Diamond is a gem-quality diamond, and was the largest known diamond in the world from the time of its discovery in 1893 until 1905, when the Cullinan Diamond was found. It was found on June 30, 1893, at the Jagersfontein Mine in South Africa, 130 kilometres south east of Kimberley whose fame as a diamond mining center always overshadowed that of Jagersfontein. It had a blue-white tint and weighed 971 old carats or 995.2 metric carats. The Excelsior rates as the fourth largest rough diamond of gem quality ever found. It was ultimately cut into ten stones weighing from 13 to 68 carats.
The Jubilee Diamond, originally known as the Reitz Diamond is a colourless, cushion-shaped diamond weighing 245.35 carats, making it the sixth largest diamond in the world. It was originally named after Francis William Reitz, the then president of the Orange Free State where the stone was discovered, before being renamed to honour the 60th anniversary of the coronation of Queen Victoria in 1897.
Harry Winston was an American jeweler. He donated the Hope Diamond to the Smithsonian Institution in 1958 after owning it for a decade. He also traded the Portuguese Diamond to the Smithsonian in 1963 in exchange for 3,800 carats of small diamonds.
Diamonds were largely inaccessible to investors until the recent advent of regulated commodities, due to a lack of price discovery and transparency. The characteristics of individual diamonds, especially the carat weight, color and clarity, have significant impact on values, but transactions were always private. With the standardized commodity as an underlying asset, several market traded financial instruments have been announced.
A gemstone desired to be used in jewelry is cut depending on the size and shape of the rough stone, as well as the desired piece of jewelry to be made. As a general rule, a cut gemstone will reduce the mass by about 50%.
A trilliant cut, sometimes called a trillion, trillian, or Trielle is a triangular type of gemstone cut. The cut has many variations. It may have curved or uncurved sides. The shape of the top surface, or table, also varies. Stones typically have 31-50 facets.
Lodewyk van Bercken was a mid- to late-15th century Flemish jeweller and diamond cutter, renowned in the industry for inventing the scaif. The device revolutionized the diamond cutting industry and contributed to increased popularity of diamonds.
Gabriel S. Tolkowsky was a Belgian-Israeli diamond cutter, best known for cutting the Centenary Diamond. He was the great nephew of Marcel Tolkowsky, father of the modern round brilliant diamond cut. He is the sixth generation in his family to become well-known in the diamond cutting trade.
Diamond is a gemstone formed by cutting a raw diamond. Diamonds have high monetary value as one of the best-known and most sought-after gems, and they have been used as decorative items since ancient times.
Royal Coster Diamonds is a diamond polishing factory in Amsterdam, Netherlands. Founded in 1840, it is the oldest in the world, and has handled a number of historical masterpieces. For example, it re-polished the Koh-i-Noor, which is mounted in the British Crown of Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother and the Dresden Green Diamond, held in the New Green Vault at Dresden Castle.
Elizabeth II owned a historic collection of jewels – some as monarch and others as a private individual. They are separate from the gems and jewels of the Royal Collection, and from the coronation and state regalia that make up the Crown Jewels.
Abraham Asscher was a Dutch Jewish businessman from Amsterdam, a politician, and a leader of his community who attained notoriety for his role during the German occupation of the Netherlands (1940–1945).
The Woyie River diamond was recovered on 6 January 1945 from the Woyie River near Koidu in eastern Sierra Leone. The uncut stone weighed 770 carats (154 g), and at that time it was the largest alluvial diamond ever found, and the third largest diamond discovered in Africa, after the Cullinan Diamond and the Excelsior Diamond. The alluvial Star of Sierra Leone, discovered at the Diminco mine in Sierra Leone in 1970, is larger at 968.9 carats (193.78 g) uncut.
The Kazanjian Red Diamond, previously known as the Red Diamond, is a 5.05-carat red diamond. It was found in South Africa in the 1920s, and was cut in Amsterdam. The Nazis seized the diamond during World War II. It was rediscovered after the war, and changed owners multiple times before it was bought in 2007 by the Kazanjian Brothers.
Crown Jewels of the Netherlands is the jewellery used by the Dutch royal family, which is sometimes dubbed "crown jewels". In the past, the terms "House-diamonds", "House-jewels" and "family jewels" have been used. In 1790 the term "Bijoux de la Couronne" was used by Luise of Brunswick -Wolfenbüttel to refer to a large diamond from Borneo. In 1896 the Firm of van Kempen & Begeer wrote about resetting the jewels of the Crown. Queen Juliana gave a selection of her formal jewelry to the new Foundation Regalia of the House of Orange-Nassau, instituted on 27 July 1963. In 1968 a Foundation "Kroongoederen van het Huis van Oranje-Nassau" was instituted. It owns the regalia and the House-jewels.
The Marie Louise Diadem is a diamond and turquoise diadem on permanent display at the National Museum of Natural History in Washington D.C.. It is named for Marie Louise of Austria, the wife of Emperor Napoleon of France.